Hard to purchase, find or BUY car parts. (OE & OEM and non-OEM)

First of all, it took me 7 years to make this list. The makers of injector o-rings, SMP catalog still has errors. for 7+ long years.

Sidekicks and Trackers in the USA. G16 engine based.
GM and Suzuki still sell new OEM parts, even with Suzuki in Chapter 11 (see the 4 OEM sites below)
Hard to buy or find, parts, means the OEM online parts experience difficult (at best)

  • On-line OEM Missing parts drawings:Both Suzuki and GM (old Geo) have weak or missing parts drawings, online.
  • Parts not shown, but are actually in stock.
  • Many OEM parts are not in stock. (no longer stocked and discontinued, the car is old)
  • The online OEM pages fail to differentiate, G16A from G16B (TBI/MPI) engines or, like GM shows only the G16a engine, then mixes in MPI parts. (huh?)
  • Suzuki using engine code 0 for both engines TBI and MPI causes most stores to sell you the wrong parts. Including Suzuki.
  • If you have a real parts book like me, you can look up OEM parts and find them. (paper or EPC)
  • The GM parts can be 25 to 50% less costly, if found. For sure, a MAF sensor big time less. See some GM examples here.
  • GM parts are more easy to look up, due to the VIN engine code U / 6 (TBI/MPI) and the RPO tag. Example for RPO codes.

After Market parts: (non OEM)
The best place for parts is Rockauto.com
ROCKAUTO is #1 in showing all parts makers, that make this part, for your Suzuki and with real partnumbers, not  numbers, as others do.
Rock has a photo of each part, unlike 1/2 the parts online say at Suzuki.
Rock will show as many as 10 makers of one part!
This allows you the luxury of Googling that maker and part number, for lower prices or faster DELIVERY to you. (closer, faster, cheaper, less tax, less shipping costs, less down time?)
Rock, like most others, fails to ask engine type at the get go, so you must wade through many wrong parts.

If you can’t find a real Suzuki part? Ask here (forum).

GM (Geo)?
Sadly, I do have the full all year Geo uFiche films of all parts, but no fiche reader… (loan me your fiche reader? and i’ll photo scan them?)

I see, the GEO “GM” body parts list here, ( for Trackers)

Bad news. Suzuki Car Sales, USA, are shut down…”Chapter 11“, oops, now in Canada,too…

Avoid “no name” parts, parts that are almost always made in Chinafor sure, never Distributor rotors from hell. 

SUZUKI OEM PARTS ONLINE: Call Suzuki and do not say Geo Tracker to them, or state Geo VIN’s
Chapter 11, sickness… is fading, these 2 seem to be “still live” (I’m still seening drop outs in 2015)
The cure? (100%) is buy and old paper parts list off EBAY or buy the EPC, the electonics catalog 2004 is sold in many places, both at Ebay.
If you use the older numbers the online finds it, and may do a substitue, let it. Now see all parts in the warehouse in USA.
The parts pages at Suzuki poor and incomplete, too. (so unlike JEEP). \
(best is to buy a printed used Real book, for 1989-98, used Suzuki parts list book off ebay, then search by real part numbers) (may take a year to find one!)

AVOID MONSTER parts, serious price gouging there 300% over retail. (posted by users many)

Prices, vary, no prices of anything are fixed, except, Cuba., N.Korea, FSU, and maybe ISIS.?

I find my best deals on GM parts here. All dealers are subject to DISCONTINUED, so look at all dealers. Not just ONE.

The best way, to find the shrinking Suzuki empire, is google Searches, use this link to do that. Google “Trademotion Suzuki car parts

Fact 1: GM don’t know Suzuki partnumber or VINS, nor Suzuki know GM numbers. (one exception in the Geo uFiche, shows GM p/n and Suzuki p/n side by side for ECU.)
Fact 2: Mixing smog related parts between generations or countries (yes, Califonia is a country) will fail.
Smog parts, Engine parts, Exhaust parts, ECU/PCM, Harnesses (looms?) In some cases the whole engine is a smog part, because California banned the 8v engine, early.
Fact 3: Most stores will sell you the wrong part, because the Suzuki VIN does not show which of 2 engines you have. 50% failure rate, better stores do ask KC or KV? (code for 2door /4door)
GM/Geo does not have this problem because the GM car has a unique vin, in all cases and a RPO tag for build out.
If buying engine parts and they don’t ask TBI/MPI you will get the wrong part. “toss a coin” bam.
G16A TBI, TPI, 8Valve, KC (C implies 2door, and implies 8v, but only in USA)
G16B MPI,MFI, 16v, KV (both USA jargon and KC/KV don’t play outside USA, other countries have vastly more choices, in engine/body setups. KV means VAN, KC means Canvas top.-)
Starting in 1996 all engines are KV, 16valve. in the USA.

All the below are the horrors of owning old Sidekicks, my experiences and many others have contributed to my list.
For sure, it’s no Toyota. with parts everywhere. Nor is it a JEEP, not ever.

Tools and books?, Get Special tools FSM and operators guides, for Suzuki’s (even day passes on books)

This page, shows the harder nuts to crack:

Common parts you need, Index:

    1. IAC the Idle Air Controller (aka; cold start fast idle) Suzuki don’t sell it (nor ever) (nor GM) You must buy the whole Throttle body, at GM its $777 ($866 at Suz)
    2. ISC idle speed electric, Suzuki sells it still for $300, as does Airtex and SMP at Rockauto.com for far less. (the 8/16v water tubes have unique angles!)
    3. A/T tranny kick down cable (a.k.a.= TV throttle valve, detent cables)
    4. Axle and Tranny Lube GL4 and 5.
    5. Axle Front 4WD Front Hub O-ring (inner)
    6. Axle (front) mod. 97-98 Tracker odd/ball Front bearing retainer nut down graded to the ALL pre 99 Suzuki configurations.
    7. Axle Front wheel bearing locking tools.
    8. Axle FRONT bearings and seals 89-98
    9. Axle Rear bearings and seals! 89-05
    10. Blinker / flasher / Turn Signal relay (it’s not a true relay)
    11. Cam and Crank seals and timing belt parts. OEM
    12. Clutch Cable sources
    13. Distributor O-rings or my low cost, high temp Viton rings… 
    14. ECU is sold rebuilt by CARDONE, pick them carefully, but not these. Hybrid circuit modules ( dead 5vdc?)
    15. Engine Oil sender secrets and adaptor
    16. Exhaust manifold 8 valve solutions A new! Factory new Manifolds
    17. Exhaust manifold misc. information all types
    18. Exhaust manifolds Thorley and here is Calmini
    19. Exhaust C.A.R.B rules
    20. Fan speed, resistor block repairs, and can be both a bad resisor and/ or a bad fan switch. Suzuki stopped selling them too!
    21. Front wheel bearing hubs (FWBH) is sold by rockauto by AC-DELCO FW252 & Suzuki still sells it $149, see it here! GM has it for $100
    22. The ABS version of above is FW253 by AC-DELCO, in both cases Delco fails to list Suzuki, but that is an error on their part!!! It’s the SAME PART. $80 on Amazon.
    23. Fuel Injectors both MPI and >>> TBI solutions
    24. Fuel Injector Seals
    25. Fuel rail adaptor 16V for MPI,all ways!
    26. Fuel Rail rear Pulse Dampener device. (leaks huh)
    27. GM (GEO) secret list of critical parts. (From my old ufiche films)
    28. Head bolts ( a real pain for 16v owners, no aftermarket parts)
    29. You need Head springs?
    30. IGNITION coils. (COPS) Coils Over PLUGS and spare boot sources. Aka. Coil Packs and DIS.
    31. Lamps very hard to find.
    32. Main Relay (1989/90)
    33. MAF 1.6L air meter (Suzuki wants $1000 for this part!) (the $100 China clone fails) Find a used one, that works.
    34. MAF 1.8L air meter (Suzuki never sold it, ever, now that SUCKS SWAP GAS!)
    35. O2 sensor sources, P/N and wiring it up universal style. Full color codes for all years, see the new, table at the end for wiring up all versions correctly
    36. The engine oil pressure switch sender and retrofit real gauge secrets!
    37.  MISC, Factory O-rings
    38. Radiator, the hardest to order and get right 1st time! and a new matric for CORE SIZE!!
    39. The distributor Rotors are not hard to find but…
    40. Speedo cables 1989 – 98′ (a new PDF page ) are >Here<
    41. Thermostats Vitara and Santana (non USA)
    42. Thermostats 1.6L (G16) USA
    43. Thermostat 1.8L (J18) USA
  1. The Timing belt from cam to crank. Not hard to find, but here is the best part. The Gates TCK212 (kit) belt and pulley. $29 ROCKauto
  2. The Timing belt crank pulley bolts are custom as are the COG wheels
  3. Tools
  4. TPS horrors. The royal PITA Throttle Position Sensor and idle switch.
  5. Trailer wiring kit for $13
  6. Transmission 5 Speed, shifter tip, plastic bushings, and drain plugs
  7. Throttle body (TBI) 8 valve gasket kit.
  8. Vehicle Speed Sensor VSS, for I/P cluster
  9. Water proof connectors. (after market option)

I dont know how to source all after market relays and modules under the dash, (SEE SMP Catalog on line) but here is the DASH locations of them, 91-95.
Here is my on car look and finds parts page, too.

Early kicks, near battery parts, relays and what not. can be seen here.

In 1996 Suzuki moved many electrical parts.

The 1.8L can use 2.0L I4 parts Some 1.8L information.

The 1.8L engine can be found in the USA in the Esteem. (with large motor opted) 99-02
In 1997 Suzuki moved the TCM (tranny brain 4speed) in to the confines of the ECU and renamed it to PCM.

I get many parts from SMP, CARDONE (rebuild masters) and Raybestos for brakes and more… The best place to the TOP names and makers of parts, for sure is rockuto.com.
SMP = Standard Motor Products.

TPS sensors ( Throttle Position Sensors) USA only: (no GM data here, use Suzuki parts on GM) GM is dead? on Geo?
My 2002 Jeep TPS is $23, and over the counter anywhere. (as a comparison) Case in POINT.
My pet peeve and rant… (lots of sad friend, got hit)

First off, there are few 16v TPS sensors sold, by Non Suzuki makers, except Airtex and Wells. ( Delphi/Delco stopped, as did many others. )
Many auto stores and catalogs list the 8v part under 16v, and the reverse or worse, NOT AT ALL, and shows up in all stores, you look!
This is not the stores, fault or the makers, it’s Suzuki’s dumb idea of using code 2 for both engines!, SILLY IDEA that. 
For sure ordering under a GEO title and correct U/6 VIN code avoids this Suzuki sadly has no good VIN in say 1995. (hell, 89-95)
I see two non OE makers. SMP and Airtex/Wells (the Zone has some now) The parts can be $200 or $300! Rockauto has them now.2012 (2 of 3).
Due to the rarity of these parts, prices are very unstable. And auction site sellers (ripoff artists), take advantage of that big time.

The SMP #TH147 fits only the 8v motor. SMP is marketed also under Blue Streak (Canada) and as BWD ( Borg Warner Division) Don’t be fooled, same part!
The Airtex 5S5074 fits the 16v can cost $100 more than Suzuki OEM 58B00 part. ($217) Why does Airtex think their part is better than stock?, go figure.
89-98 (the OEM Suzuki sensors are near $220 each, and rising) A total RIP off, IMO. (10x price scalping, in fact)
Factory Facts: P/N means Part Number…

There are 3,OEM TPS sensors, 1 for 8v and 2 for 16v and ARE NOT SWAPPABLE.
The Prefix code in Suzuki parlance 13420-means the TPS: These are Real Suzuki Part number. I never attempt anything,with GM, ever.
The correct P/N for the Suzuki 8v is: 13420-56B00 (also fits EFI equipped 90-95′ Samurai’s) $226 (+tax+ship and delays in each case)
The correct P/N for the Suzuki 16v is: 13420-58B00 92-95′ USA only. wide base TPS body See photos below for TPS body sizes.
The correct P/N for the Suzuki 16v is: 13420-58B10 92-98′ USA only narrow base TPS body and never for X90,.
I do NOT know GM(GEO) cut off dates, or VIN starting points. none.

The later 16v NARROW Style housing base, for the TPS, OD is 1.213″ 31mm (aluminum side) Some cars have the Throttle bodies switched and use older TPS.
I’ve seen 96 Kicks with 95 TBody. (or the reverse) so match size or fail. Good LUCK!

The after market (non Suzuki real parts) Matching the above parts to aftermarket is not easy.
If your TB is not wrong, for your year, then the catalogs cover this easy.
I do not have a Mukuni catalog either. (one more alt. source)

The Wells company does sell, this 16v part for up to $314 (expensive by near $100 over OEM) at AZ TPS494 and for 8v look.
Autozone sells this part, right now 2013 for $422 bucks. TPS494,

Wow Rockauto shows 2 engines now! (was only 1) 2014
I looked at 10 major stores online, in each case the 92-95 Suzuki 1.6L 16v MPI motor shows the wrong TPS. ALL!
These errors are all Suzuki caused!, Suzuki uses the same vin code for 8v and 16v, (a true abomination that…) GM/GEO gets this right,

The After market needs to wake, the hell up and put 8v and 16v on every page, under engine type. Many only show 1 engine. (and is not true, in fact there are parts for both and they lose sales for this)
Suzuki is wrong (VIN), so the catalogs can be wrong, so many stores index parts via (DB) the wrong data in the catalog and vast stores list the wrong parts.

What’s worse, buying the wrong $300 TPS, it don’t fit and you can not exchange electrical parts, end result $600 and the your old parts was good. (only a scope can test a TPS)
Sorry, I have a scope and fast logger and can find any bad TPS, sorry if you can’t and must guess. And 2x sorry, if you got HIT!

There is HOPE:
The SMP CATalog, now lists these parts as, TBI AND MFI (8V &16V)
1995 8V = TH147 (89-95, 1.6L ONLY)
1995 16V = TH437
1996 16V SOHC = TH392
1996 1.8L DOHC = TH237

The catalog is much improved.! Hopefully stores, soon, will read this data and correct their horrid database errors.

Do go to SMP dot com, or Airtex/Wells online catalogs and do find the correct part and part number and be very careful with year and the LOOK.
Do then search with Google for your part #, and you may find one, in a local store, at non rip off prices, just might. I see first hit, AMAZON for “TH437 TPS”
Napa also stocks these. (I buy just about all my parts from NAPA, if possible, due to their not selling JUNK)

#1 hard to find part, is not really hard at all, it’s just bad SELLERS, making this so hard!
The 1.8L Suzuki “SPORT” J18 THERMOSTAT. The engine code is #2 in the VIN, Not 0. See other 1.8L issues here.
I will call it the “STAT” 
This engine is same as 2.0L (J20) but is early understroked engine. The pump is mounted this way,so it can work on FWD cars, or RWD cars not just your car.
This engine runs a unique thermostat, designed for the remote pump and weaker cold start flows and runs backwards, The G engine STAT sends water outward, the J engine is INWARD.
(apples and oranges different parts and a unique design)
1.8 liter (and all J engines) are a totally different motor (DOHC) it’s no G16 at all.
But is also used on the 2000 Esteem 1.8 and 2000 Vitara 2.0l (J20) and SX4 to 2009 (same thermostat in all cases)
Many stores fail to ask you the VIN, for your car, and sell you the wrong STAT. (don’t let them, use the online catalogs and look it up first and get the correct number)
The correct “STANT” Stat, is #14378 (or 379 for 195f) the 14 prefix matches 1.8L or 2.0L
The 1.6L (G16) thermostat by STANT, is 13 prefixed and is a dead wrong STAT

If you need a new rubber ring gasket only, it’s sold by Fel-Pro #35432

The thermostat will surge with the rubber ring missing, or using a G16 thermostat, (a FACT)
There is a bleed hole (aka; jiggle pin) and has a wax puck pellet, that does the expansion magic.
The 1.8 has the STAT housing on the side of the water Pump and has some very odd issues, here.
The STAT in the J engines, are not laying in the hot pool of water in the intake manifold water cooling paths. It’s now in the pump casing.
First off, The 1.8L Stat (thermostat ) must be installed bleed hole up hill, and wax side towards the pump!
Pipe 22 must not be blocked( nor it’s Bypass tube blocked) Any blockage here, will cause even a new thermostat to SURGE.
If the 1.8L cab heater pipes #3 are blocked the thermostat (good) will fail.(this failure is a private horror to many, with surging temperatures…)

The 1.6 liter coolant flow runs different, than any 1.8L seen here.

The problem here, (at least) buying a STAT at the store and they give you (wrongly) an early 1.6L STAT and paper gasket (2x wrong). The 1.8L STAT IS UNIQUE.
This engine can go to frigid running mode or worse, berserk (hunting temp.’s and surging) the reason is,that the STAT floats in the 4mm lip well! using the wrong SEAL.
Frigid running can also be a seized fan clutch.
Car RUNS at 120 -149 Degrees F, and has HORRIBLE gas mileage and a weak cab heater, or overheats! or the G16 stat will surge, bad used in any DOHC engine.
The solution is to by the correct parts. (gee, Suzuki still sells, is like $40 )
The correct stat uses the rubber ring, never any paper gasket.

The correct Suzuki PN for this stat is: 17670-77E00 (that 77 code matches J18)
Part number 17670-77E00 was superseded by part number 17670-65D00. by Suzuki,.
By the way is a 2002 Esteem 1.8L stat!” (check prices at all stores, the Esteem Stat for 1.8L might be cheaper.
Most Auto-stores have the wrong parts for the SPORT (sells G16 wrong parts), or are missing the critical rubber gasket that fits on the outer rim of the Thermostat.
So if that $5 stat don’t work…? get the 1.8L Esteem stat. I run 192-195 F STAT, versions.

Napa has the correct STAT (in theory,) Altrom 154-3604 or Napa brand, THM386-180 (both are unique to 1.8L,2.0L and some V6s by suzuki)

See OE part is below: (OE means Original Equipment, or in this case a SUZUKI part)
The RUBBER ring Gasket must be present.

This STORE SELLING PARTS ERROR DISEASE, includes suspension parts and other 1.6L to 1.8L cross mixing of parts, too.
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1430689

The Stant 14378 is known to work perfectly.
Rockauto sells them, SEE EM?
These all work as does the Beck and OEM part. 17670-65D00.
Even the 2009 Suzuki SX4 uses this same stat, J20.

Using the wrong part can result in overheating, frigid running, engine temps surging, horrid MPG, and using wrong stat, or using that silly paper gasket are all wrong.

End 1.8L STAT: (over kill but ends the 15 miles to the gallon BS)

The Purpose of the STAT is to warm the car fast and then hold it at 180F (if 180F version) at all times, steady, if your cooling temperatures are not steady, there is a problem!
I run the 192-195 ºF STATs (they warm the cab faster, and get better MPG and better cooling) I ran the factory 17600-60823 (4mm version) for years.

I do not have GM/GEO data on thermostats. {I have Ufiche but no reader}( I do know they too cut over to the new intake manifolds but I do not know the VIN code S/N)
When you go to a store and look, every store, gets this wrong, everyone here, in Texas.
The reason is that the STAT makers get this wrong, and that is because SUZUKI does not communicate to the after market makers. Sad Sad story, but true.
The below is the factory TSB cut and pasted, and annotated by me to make it clear this vast differences in STAT kits.

Do not mix 1mm and 4mm PARTS! This SNAFU causes FUBAR. LOL! Coolant Temps will SURGE if wrong.
This error too, causes FRIGID, conditions.

USA Sidekicks (Trackers) many Vitara’s and never the Spanish made Santana’s (which have special thermostats, see about that later on...)
Is your car running cold as an ICE BERG? And No/low heat from the heater?

The very old relic TSB on this subject here TSB 4-13-04063 (R).
Do not use the partnumbers in that spec, as Suzuki changed them again, see below numbers. Suzuki changing P/N is a ROYAL PITA!
All Suzuki thermostat kits, do come with both gaskets.
Suzuki History: (electronics parts catalog and paper catalogs in hand)
Cut over dates 1992 to 1994!
The cut over VIN Serial numbers, are Below, the Part Number is of the manifold changes to B01 deep well. B01 is a revision.
The R=1994 and the N=1992 are year codes. The VIN # 2Sxxxxxxxx is the CAMI plant, the JS3xxxxxx is JAPAN plant. See how confusing this is?
The two plants cut over on different years, and models. Most cars in USA cut over at VIN R640001xxx VIN suffix. 1992. CAMI cut over.
As you can see, if you dont have this list or didnt measure the lip first, buying the parts in advance will fail, so buy both gaskets, first. that solve this issue.
Codes below, C = 2 door, V (van) is 4 door,

The below are intake manifold cut in dates,(VIN) and that changes the thermosat.

Suzuki P/N: “17600” means Thermostat in Suzuki Parlance:
Warning Suzuki changed their $27 thermostat P/N kit again!, in 2010.

“Everything superceded to the 17600-60814. This came with Both Gaskets.” 2010+ current number.
My 1996 Sidekick has $36 Thermostat, must be gold plated, at that price, huh.
No more 192 Stats at Suzuki.

The 1.8L Sport Thermostat is $40 (ouch) and is same part and same price as the 1.8L Esteem.
The prices, are like German cars MB or BMW, but it’s no German car,not even close.


NEVER USE A 160 or 170F Thermostat or the EFI sysem,will go quite nuts. (horrid MPG)
USA, OEM parts sold in stores, be sure to buy both the rubber ring and paper gasket if you DO NOT KNOW YOUR WELL SIZE.?
Most stores here sell this O-ring made by: Felpro 35423
Advanced Auto parts, Napa,Oreillys, Murray, Checkers, Kragen and Shucks or PepBoys, can get seam rubber gasket 35432 RUBBER seal 4mm, indexed p/n. $4.49
I never buy parts at the AxxZoned. ever. (they import some ratty non name China parts, IMO! durafail parts)

I run 192-5F thermostats with my rubber 5mm thick ring that fits my 4mm well. Some companies stopped selling my 192-195F STAT, Stant did and so did Gates. dang.
I run 195F Stats, in my car. This allows up to 1/2 to 1 MPG better economy (tiny but adds up for life of car) motor lasts longer (faster warm-up’s) and better cooling.(Carnot laws)
The radiator works better, the larger the differential between the AIR and the WATER affords greater cooling (do so only with 50% antirfeeze and a 12psi cap)
Not withstanding never do this if system can not hold 12-14psi pressures. (natural) The RAD CAP sets the pressure.

Revised sources and data 2013:
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1430688 (Rockauto sells it) 
Alternate Temperature; Temperature 192F
ACDELCO Part # 12TP9E, 192F
See how Rockauto mixes up seals here, all paper seals on this page are dead wrong for 1995 and up.

Advanced AutoParts stocks the 192F
Beck 143-0688
and the seal (rubber)
Felpro, Part No. 35432 (and paper gasket for pre 95′ engines, that is the engines with 1mm well lip)

Here is 1 more source for the BECK.
Amazon really does have the best selection of 192-195f Stats.

Do not let the Thermostat float in the 4mm deep well.
Keep in mind many non OEM Thermostats come with out any gasket.
Put the WAX side down, the bleed (aka, jiggle pin) to the front,The front is up hill. see that?
all 96’s have rubber rings.
All 95 and newer use 4mm STAT kit, use anti seize lube, on all bolts. My photo even shows the 4mm lip!
The 92 and newer 1.6L engine can in fact have the 4mm well rim. LOOK at yours first.
The 1.8L and 2.0L the wax side goes to the water pump body. and bleed top.

ODD STAT facts, in the after market.

  • Failsafe ( if the stat fails, it fails to open, we promise, cross fingers.. bla bla… if the lock up, you must remove it to unlock it, some like this, others don’t.)
  • The Jiggle pin (the bleed hole ) the automatic air burping device.
  • The Reverse poppet (Gates band) “The reverse poppet thermostat opens against the flow of coolant from the water pump. The coolant, under water pump pressure, is used to help the reverse poppet thermostat stay closed when cool to reduce leakage. This type is engineered with a self-cleaning, self-aligning stainless steel valve”
  • V-notch valve ( STANT brand has this and has better control of temps when it is very cold out side) {better low valve metering} is real and good in N. latitudes. (Canada)
  • Fast warm up stat. ( a seen on MAZDA cars. I love them) My point is,, Some day,we might get this option! Saves fuel big time…

NON USA Vitara like cars, and all numbers below are very very old, do contact Suzuki for correct new numbers. 

Other Vitaras’?, aka: VITS (very old data) AS SEEN IN EUROPE only.
Most Vitara, Spanish Santana’s do not use any of these Suzuki PN, above, but rather use:
Early 90s Spain made Santana 1,2,3 types:
PN 17570A74001 (a strange Pn for sure)
96-98 Santana’s started using:
17670-85C00 (82c) and = -85C10(88c)
Do not mix, Vitara parts with Santana parts until you look up the part numbers, at Suzuki.
Do ask Suzuki for upgraded P/N.

end 1.6L stat.

MAF SECTION: MASS AIR FLOW meter or AIR meter for short. USA! and most of world.

I will try to cover all air meter sources here, best I can. HOW TO TEST YOUR MAF:

1.6L 92-98. Type 3 MAF’s AIR FLOW METER H3LL? See MAF failure.
Yes, you can unplug the MAF and the ECU does mimic the dead MAF very crudely, (in FailsSAFE mode,limp feature)
reverse engineered one MAF (a clone) here, see full schematic.
The MAF prefix is always 13800- all Sidekicks and Vitara’s

Also, there is a type 2 AIR METER “VAF” for EU /Australia Vitara 13800-57B00 1.6L 16v MPI
Looks like toilet plunger to me “AIR METER”, fits ECU 57Bxx, it’s not used in N.America at all.
type 2 motor has ISC located in Throttle body and not on intake manifold.< a big clue.
Some JDM engines have this, smog free engines. (no EGR, no 02 sensor, no CAT)
I have no data, on any VAF meter, 57Bxx.

See failure modes here.
58B00: (Suzuki Suffix part number for their MAF)
Which MAF’s fit my car, is answered below.
#1 Source: (Suzuki still Sells it $$$$$$$, and next unborn male child,,,)
#2 Source: ROCKAUTO.COM (A-1 Cardone is ok) see emission section not Air/fuel,

SMP company is a top maker of parts and a top Rebuilder, I’d trust them., and Cardone 100%

Suzuki PN for this part is: 13800-58B00 Type3 fits all USA 92-98 1.6L A list of Suzuki cars, that use this 58B part number.
This part new Dealer part, can cost more than $1000 (now) at the dealer, they doubled the price, in a few years, the bums. (IMO)

Other Suzuki’s any Displacement using type 3 MAF 58B00:
99-03 SQ416 same prefix, 65D00 MAF. Vitara, all below.
99-03 SQ420 same prefix, 65D00 MAF, 400 more CC and same MAF!
99-05 SQ625, Suzuki moved MAF to TB and dont sell MAF by its self. see below for solution.
01-03 JA627, Suzuk moved MAF to Air cleaner again. same prefix, 52D00
04-05 JA627, 52d10 Suffix.
Suzuki MAF’s are for sure hard to find. (used and working)

Watch out for Flea-bay dot com, clone MAF’s that are pure useless junk. (most sellers there are clueless, as to applications)
I recommend the SMP or CARDONE Products. (fully rebuilt and tested!)

The SUZUKI SPORT 1.8L+ and larger engines, The AIR METER MAF, and for many larger motor use this Throttle body MAF. 
THAT Suzuki does not sell this MAF discrete part OMG! ONLY A $1300 TB (the whole freaking throttle body) {warning many China clones don’t work}
1.8L + It came into usage, up to year 2004. See official list below.
Where is it?
Fits on the side of Throttle body. (I have no idea at all what kind of air meter it is, but does look like a very tiny hot wire MAF) “hint, clean it”
<Click to zoom

This air meter is mounted on the Throttle body and Suzuki only sells, the whole TB P/N:13400-77EV0 (cry a river!)
It is a Hitachi pn: AFH55M-13 + (yyww) date codes. Ignore the date codes. I think this part is good for 1.6L to 2.5L.
There are many counterfeit sensors sold, they are not Hitachi at all, but very poorly made clone Counterfeits. Do not buy them off FLeaBaY. unless desperate.

I’m just searching for parts below, most are NO GOOD. Only Buy real Japan Hitachi parts! Or rebuilds of same. (cardone)
Search forthe Hitachi AFH55M-13 MAF, that fits the 1.8L TBody

The clones, are not good, directly from China here. But look at their flow bench setup, is there hope for the future?

Every single sellers shows the 1.8L MAF fitting 1.6L cars, this is bunk, 100% lies…
The tiny 1.8 MAF fits on the TB, the huge MAF 1.6 fits against the air cleaner box..
AFH55M-13 this is the Hitachi number. for 1.8L and larger engines.
The other number, on part is the AFH number, is the date code (i dont know how to decode that, ask Hitaschi?)

I think this one parts, fits all Throttle Body Based Suzuki MAF’s, give it a try and save money.

See the clone failure here. (Thanks Mr. Gorky!)

AIP has the real part, if true. $150 (note how they make the error too, that it fits any G16! all lies that)

What really happens, If my MAF is bad?

  • If dead or unplugged, the ECU goes to FAILSAFE (limp) mode, instantly, sucking gas like mad.
  • A little Weak MAF causes, acceleration bogging and Wide Open Throttle (WOT) bogging. Lack of engine full power.
  • Very weak?, (dirty?) Closed loop mode can fail. (see that with any scan tool made) 40% weak or more, can do that.
  • Clean it gently, use carb spray or better CRC MAF cleaner from afar, say 12 inches afar. 0.3 meters. The elements are delicate!! They do coke up, driven in heavy traffic. (oil fumes)
  • They can coke up too, with some K/N filters (oil soaked)

Cardone 1 Sells the Rebuild’s now. for These Cars. 1.8L and UP. For about $150 bucks. 
This MAF does not work on G13s G16 engines or on any 8Valve TBI engines at all.

Testing it? Uuse a Scan tool and see 3 grams/Second at idle up to 55 or more up hills, in 3rd gear, flogging the heck out of it, max engine torque is max flow. see tests here.
If it’s a 2.5L even more grams/sec. (flogged hard)

Injector Seal kits:
Both the intake cushion side and the rail o-ring side
Click spinner to see.

Distributor O-ring Set:  Got oil leaks,? that many wrongly think is rear block main seal! STOP it not that… (created in 2006)
The factory rings are cheap junk and all leak down back of engine to the bell vent, then behind flywheel and bingo…

USA data, some other markets have different distibutors.
8 Valve engine. ( was told this seal fits 16v but the Distributor side is a tad tight, so lube the ring, before install)
Some folks just RTV everthing, to hell with o-ring…
Surprise Suzuki still sells them. If $10 a ring don’t scare you and $10 more to ship it?, or the long 10 day wait in the mail. (chapter 11 bad deals)

Official Suzuki PN for these rings: See the low cost 10x better Viton rings here.

If 8 bucks is to much like scalping charges, like they do on Fleabay, the see here. Use the links below to see seal sold by number.

Years Distributor shaft P/N Distrubutor base housing pn.P/N commnets
89-91 8v 33278-52010 ($8)
09280-56004 ($2)  added today 11-19/11
92-95 8v 33278-85060 ($6) 09280-56004 corrected error
92-95 16v 33278-60B40 11162-71C00 ($4)
96-98 16v 33278-85060 11162-71C10 not sure what C10 gets you here?

GM/GEO EPC stated Base Oring size is 55.5mm x 1.9mm! 89-93′ 8v. ( up to 95, im sure’) [exactly what I measured on a new seal, btw]
In addition, the 16v uses RTV sealant (O2 sensor safe) to seal the housing to the head. (seals the 16v rail) NO RTV ON ANY 8V housing!
See page xxxxx in FSM
This sealant goes on the hole (cam lifter rail) next to the big O-ring. FSM shows this clearly.
The rear cam cap has RTV too, and if missing, it too will leak live a sieve (mad).

The Valve cover gaskets leak too, and not one set of gaskets lasts 300,000 mile, the 60k tuneup replaces that, did YOU?
Run FELPRO gaskets for best life.

8 VALVE ENGINES: Distributor O-ring measuring and buying generic o-rings that fit. This section is non Suzuki parts, that fit and never fail.
I measured only the 8v rings, and came up with this information: (in 2006)
The below data is for 8V ONLY!!: and is experimental! but did fit my 8v and on 3 friends cars.
If you want o-rings that don’t fail on the Distributor shaft end and on the base to head juncture:
MarkBs web pages died.
Here is link
that talks of this and shows the #1 part below size.

I measured only the 8v rings and bosses with micrometers and calipers, and came up with this information:
These below, are my best try are measuring and matching, so you can find a local supplier of o-rings.
Small seal, P/N# -035 (SAE std numbers is the suffix code nums) Distributor bottom shaft.
My work using calipers and buying all sizes to see which fits best with GRINGO rings. (usa ring) I have the GM micro fiche (flims) of all GEO Tracker parts.
Large Seal P/N# -118, main housing to head. ( the material VITON, is prime grade 400F rated) I measured them, the RED is factory GM spec.)

  1. VT75 -035 (Distributor base in inches, slightly larger od, by.065″ but fits ok ) they dont stock mm 55.5 x 1.9mm o-rings.
  2. VT75- 118 ( Distrib. shaft my best fit by measuring shaft and o-ring. ) [ (7/8 ID X 1-1/16 OD X 3/32 W] 

I also measured the 16v base housing ring below. sizes 035 fits.
Prefix code denotes materal types:
Use prefix V75 ( Viton high temp. rings, will never fail!!!) 400 degr. rating. Great!

Cost about.25 to,50 cents each. ( hard to believe, huh?) Now you know, where the Fleebay scalpers, get them. Rotten huh?
Best Source, at a real on line store, just add to cart: (no min. order, wow!)
Go to O-rings, inc, in LA. Calif.

Main Page Source of O-Rings, oringsUSA.com Inc. Since 1958

Here is the EXACT ORDER PAGE I used for both O-rings VT75 above.

Always use O-ring lube: This is Silicon Grease. Just on the ring itself
Autozone has these O-ring lube packets at the counter, and look like Ketchup at McDonalds.
The full Silicon lube tube is like $8-$11 each. 1 tube, lasts a life time. USE O2 safe RTV as ALWAYS
end 8v:.

16v Dizzy rings.
I do not know the Dizzy base shaft slot diameter, (tell me) nor the ring thinkness. (tell me )
With Slot OD we buy same ID ring and at right thickness class. and Viton.

Mil spec Viton 75
Class M83248/1
Size 035
30 whole cents for top material, will last near for ever too.
M83248/1-035 (2-1/4 ID X 2-3/8 OD X 1/16 W)
The pencil points to the place the FSM shows to use RTV sealant. (rear rocker shaft chamber is here) that Circle around that point is sealed with sealant. The 1996 FSM is free to read and has these steps.

end distributor section.

More Misc. O-ring data: (CS = cross section, ID= Inside diameter, PN= Part Number)
The below is all theory. ( I recommend buying 1 size diam. smaller and larger just to be sure, they are cheap)
(this is experiemental ( the material VITON, is prime) but I measured them, )

My measuremets and estimates…:
Dip stick tube: CS=0.075 (2mm) ID: 0.388 [9.8mm) [I say 10mm ] Suz PN: 09280-10016 $1.65
Rear Water pump to rear pipe: CS= 0.138 (3.5mm) ID=1.093 (27.8mm) [ I say 28mm ] Suz PN: 09280-28008 $1.50

Suz p/n,for some other rings and seals below.

16v rail copper washer seals:
front plug, 09168-14012, SUPERCEEDED BY 09168-14015
rear rail small, 15762-61B00 (damper fitting) Try Dorman 65310 (front of damper)
rear rail large, 15763-61B00 (likes to leak of not a pefect fit and real Suz, part) Try Dorman 65273,some say.
Fuel rail dampener 15750-82400 fits rail on G16B and J18(only on Esteems up to 2002 Never Sidekick Sport J18s.
After market AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 3G1043 {#1575082400, FD400}, and SMP sells it called the FPD66
Best price on this dampener. is Rock. 

oil filter banjo coppers washer seals. x4 13925-85553 some found here, used in jet ski’s

8v fuel O-rings.
FPReg 15167-61A00 (front Throttle Body port)

Rear TB, fuel port 15710-09300
Buy these here: http://www.suzukicarparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214820

CALIFORNIA SMOG HIT LIST: offical list from CARB. 2011 How to fail a Califonia Smog Visual inspection, not even sniffing the tail pipe.

  • Air Cleaner Modification – modifications to the air cleaner and/or its housing. (CAI mods. are a Sure fail)
  • Air Filter/Intake Modification – open element air filters, modifications to the air flow intake tract, heat risers/preheat ducts.
  • Engine Modification/Engine Change – kits that include multiple engine modifications such as new cylinder heads and camshafts, or boring and stroking; engine changes using an engine certified for another late model vehicle application, with additional engine modifications.
  • Exhaust System/Exhaust Modification – exhaust manifold, exhaust headers, exhaust pipes, crossover pipes, etc.
  • Fuel Line Modification – devices designed to attach to or be inserted in the fuel line.
    Exemptions are no longer required for magnetic devices that are attached to the exterior of the fuel line; these devices have been determined to have no effect on emissions.
  • Fuel System Modification – fuel filters, gas caps, pressure regulators.
  • Intake/Exhaust System – a kit that includes both intake and exhaust components.

Exhausting, Solutions: Jump to Factory Exhaust
Manifolds, headers, etc.

AFTER MARKET: {non-Suzuki! sold or made, nor prefect copies, may not be OE FIT!}
THERE ARE NO CAST IRON 16v MANIFOLDS SOLD, after market. (8v. yes)
There are headers, sold. Racing headers. (the P/N suffixes show application, ask them!)
They only sell STEEL and steel is better than cast iron, in most cases. (stock to aftermarket)
(Stock cast iron are cheap thin wall cast, that fail easy)
If the header or manifold cracks near, the 0² sensor IT goes NUTS. (slams lean)
Air is 20% Oxygen, and 0² sensor (front, is a key AFR sensor) can’t handle that 20% sucking in.
Some headers are missing smog parts.( 0² Bung or EGR Paths)
Some will say, “There are no After-Market 16v OE manifolds”, well that is true, in the strictest sense of the word, but the Thorney is 50 state legal, proving this statement weak.(In MY opinion) If you must have cast Iron, then talk to SUZUKI!
Not only that, all headers come with a free manifold (huh?) (manifold + header + collector) (it may not be OE Fit)
60% (EPA est) of all USA citzen’s (or the like) are not subject to smog testing at all. So grow you own.
A better statement?, there are few, OE FIT (perfect) 16v After-market Manifolds sold.

Tough questions, only you can answer?: (THERE ARE ONLY 3 CHOICES, FACTORY, CALMINI AND THORLEY)

  1. Does it fit? Sure it fits the head (8v/16v are diffrerent) but some headers need the collector to cat welding and fit ment.
  2. The Calmini may need above welding, the Thorely does fit some of the 4 stock 16v setups. I’m not sure which. But i think it fits the Long tube setup.
  3. The Thorley has and EGR slot that is tiny and hard to clean.
  4. The factory header likes to crack at #4 down tube. (I suspect limphome mode causes this, and hard flogging in that failure mode)
  5. If your state has smog test visuals (yes, they fail you with just one look, glance!) like new Calif. rules 2010+, you have 2 choices, Thorley or Stock.
  6. The 0² must work, and the EGR is nice to have for keeping the exhaust valves cool. (and EGR can deliver 1/2 MPG better milage, due to lower pumping losses )
  7. Most old cars, 15 years old or older the whole exhuast system is pure rusty junk, so welding generic pipe,cat, muff, are very good, in friendly states.
  8. If I had a total bad system, I’d weld in a new Calmini with a new custom 3way CAT, and anything I want Cat back. “turbo muff?”
  9. The CAT does not need to be good, to run good, just not melted inside and not GONE inside. But to a pass smog test it must be working all 3 ways, TWC!
  10.  The EGR needs back pressure from the CAT to work (1/2 PSI at 2500 RPM (about)) (read up on EGR Modulator to understand that)

TWC= three way Cat (look under hood of car, it’s called out there, in USA)
Aftermarket manifolds:
In Calif, you need an issued an EO “Engineering Order” for the parts to pass the new visual inpections started about 2010 look your Manifold up, here..

I will not cover CAT back exhaust system types, or sources/suppiers, due to the fact,every body sells them they are ubiquitous.
You can build or have built up a custom cat back system for little bread.

Here is my OXYGEN sensors page, see my PN/s matrix, Shows how to get nice $20 O2 sensor cheap too.

8 VALVES Manifolds & headers
Look here first to see if smog is an issue:

The stock manifold looks like this, see the canted stud mounts? No 16v has that.
The stock manifold is still sold and the link to it is in the next frame.
Aftermarket (non OE) manifolds are below:

8 VALVE DORMANS 674-532 are a great solution to stock OEM fit cast iron manifolds, cheap as $65.
Here it is at Amazon.

8v Thorley EXH. manifold data sheet.

Calmin 8v IS HERE:

end 8v:

Factory Manifold Information.  The full stock man. parts list, PDF
All are factory cast iron and all are 50 state legal.
OEM SUZUKI Exhaust Manifolds: U.S.A/Canada ( how to ID them, at a glance?)
See the 93 short header below?, that is the very first CALIF C.A.R.B manifold, it then became the STANDARD!
The 16v manifolds costs, start at about $226 (2013 snap shot)



Years Collector
bolt count
bolt Pos.
Comments. Dorman don’t make a 16v, and they fail 10:1 more.
8V 89-91 3 all same square Top/Bot 14111-61A01 TOP 92-95, pn 14111-60X51 ($65 from DORMAN!)
16V 92/93 3 Short Round sides 14111-57X50 bottom 4 door, has flat plate collector flange and gasket.
16V 93 Cal 2 Long Round sides 14111-58B01 bottom 4 door, has donut collector flange gasket. C.A.R:B,first usage.
16V 94/95 2 Long Round 14111-58B01 bottom 4 door and on all 2 doors, same flange as above.
16V 96-98 2 Long Round sides 14111-58BV0 bottom  all bodies. See mine here. see the collector end?

As you can see, the 94 Federal Exhaust Manifold copies the Calif 93 header. (and becomes the new standard)
All part number above are Suzuki and are off the shelf, at any Suzuki Dealership, today. 2013(checked)
Warning 1, MOST sellers of aftermarket headers do not OE, fit the 16v SHORT application, ask them. Some are ignorant that it even exists.
Some OE style headers, the collector flange only match Federal header, never CARB and sometimes only custom header fittings. ASK THEM>
Warning 2: The new down pipe 92/93, was recalled by TSB SC-01 oct92 ( 92s, and all 93s except Calif) {only 4door cars}
The 3 bolt correct 90º Pipe (if needed) is 14190-57B12/13 (3rd revision!) The TSB is here to read.

Stock 16v long Exhuast manifold 1996. EGR bark hole, stock.

same manifold long collector business end. for Donut gasket.

16valve Non factory Exhaust manifolds (after market)
Look here first to see if smog is an issue:

First off, is CALMINI. (I’d buy this over a new $350 factory cast iron header any day) Most are OEM function but may need fitting. (header lengths off)
The 16v had a short x50 Federal header and a long California header. Starting in 1994 all are long.
In fact the short header is a royal pain in the can, the elbo pipe is recalled, do to internal collapes and is not stocked by suzuki, making any short header useless with out custom welding, so buy the long header and convert early exhaust to later. Best practice hint.

THERE ARE NO 16V CAST IRON MANIFOLDS SOLD, after market. (8v, yes by Dorman)
There are headers, sold. Racing headers.
They only sell STEEL and steel is better than cast iron, in most cases.
(Stock cast iron are thin wall cast, that fail easy)
If the header cracks the Front 02 sensor goes NUTS. (and the CAT monitor may suspend, failing you for that too)
Rule 1: 16v
See below photo see that flange on top, with 2 holes, that is the main induction pipe mount, you will need that on a stock car.
Rule 2: 16v
Many web sites, state that there header fits 16v, and is a total fib. (see angled studs on all cylinders?, that is 8valve, all studs are angled on 8v.)
The proof is the head studs, below are links right, left and bottom that clearly show the studs.
Rule 3: Most, not will get failed in California (or states that mimic calif) if the header is not listed in the CAL “EO” list.
Fail it on sight (they look and fail you) In my state, CEL off, pass or for 1995 and older, they sniff test the exhuast, only.
Rule 4: the 16v cylinders #2 and 3 have vertical studs, the 8v has all angled stud, this one fact will help you find a fitting header the fastest.

The below is a great CALMINI,16v Exh header. That fiits all 2 bolt flange applications( sure, weld in a custom collector to CAT tube, easy.)
One great 16v choice is here:
See actual photos of this header here. Note the studs on left side are all vertical and horizontal on the 16v. note the mount top right (some brands miss this)
Right Left Bottom
Note EGR tube and 02 sensor, in plain view. (I do think this is the best choice of all, welding rod in hand as the header can be too short on some 16v.)
Keep in mind, Suzuki made, a short header and long, and the aftermarket is blind to that fact. (they do not sell both, as of yet)
The Calmini one of 2 after market makers

The Calmini (the best, IMO)
Says not smog certified.
Even SEARS sells it. for $450
Best price $329 (2014)
This header might fit perfectly to the 1992/93 Federal stock 16v engine (short header) I’ve not tried it…

Non stock header #2 is the:
THORLEY: 716 (the 16 means… 16v)! Note the P/N suffix codes I found.
700 means 8v
716 means 16v.

As you can see these are NOT OE Fit headers.
The Doug Thorley the THY-716Y-C ( the C means Calif. ARB “CARB” certified? or Ceramic, I’m not sure. But guess at both!)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Doug-Thorley/702/THY-716Y-C/10002/-1( and the corrected photo, finally)

There is a SST (Stainless) 716Y-SS sold by Thorley. and Amazon, rumor is they are Certified. (call and ask, in every case)
The factory main page shows. QUOTE: FAQ page.

Q: Are your headers smog legal? 2014
A2: Yes!!! All of our headers are smog legal in all 50 states. The Calif EO or C.A..R.B number is welded on each header.

Keep in mind CALIF reserves the right to de-certify headers at any time. Read the D-540 on that bomb shell.
If you live in PR of Calif. be sure the keep all proof of header maker /model and sales receipts. (for the Gestapo) California does visuals now… a new trick…wink wink.
The below the 16v header, in all cases after market, some welding may be required. (note vertical studs yelling 16v!)
The EGR is ported via a slot under the flange that likes to clog.
The 02 sensor Bung is in view. but the EGR is fully hidden below.
Real makers web site is here, the THY-716Y-C (finally a smog statement)

there is a SS version too, with SS suffix sold on Amazon. check it out. The EGR slot is HIDDEN. Note the center stud holes are vertical, the 8v are canted. 16v ports are round.

That EPA required EGR slots is fully hidden while mouted. (above)
If this slot packs up, the 1996+ cars, will throw DTC code P0400s, or DTC 51s (older than 1996)
.This is the Thorley 716 EGR machined slot. Easy to clog! But more easy to clean.

Things behind the Exhaust Manifold.
16 Valve Below:
1992/93 Fed, has long front tube 3 bolt flange.

1992/93 Calif. and 1994/95 both CAL/Federal. Cal. means Calif Air Research board. and FED is EPA regs.
The left tube below, fits long exhaust manifolds (aka Calif setup) The long tube on the right fits the short exhaust manifold (old Fed setup,note 3 holes both ends)

The Suzuki long tube (on the right), loves to fail inside and make noise, and is covered by this TSB.
By 1995 2 bolt donut tube, is used on all G16B KV, 16valve engines.
I call the left photo Calif, due to its first usage (I’m sure Calif CARB mandated 1992) The right photo only fits early FED engines.

Here are the Walker parts. (hard to decode, but here it is) I think 52247 matches the 2 bolt front tube (what I call calif tube, see left above)

The vast choices are 4dr and 2door and California and Fed engines. 4 permutations of fit up, not trivial.
RockAuto.com sell these parts. (picking the right ones, takes more that I can muster… good luck here.
end. exhaust.

Jargon: MORE Jargon.
AFR = Air Fuel Ratio’s
MAP= tables that store Fuel and Ignition timing, based on all sensor data.
ECU: Engine Controller Unit (PCM is new SAE name, power train control module)
C.A.R.B = California Air Resource Board. ( in shop jagon, the kalifornia smog Nazi’s ) I list of rules, to infinity for sure. (and growing like a cancer)
JDM = Japan Domestic Market ( cars made to be operated on JAPAN soil, or countries that import this cars and use them.) (not in USA)

The Speedo HEAD / Cluster or the VSS switch: 

All speedo heads are listed here! (USA only) Suzuki Only.

They vary by: year range & generation, 2/4 WD, with tacho, with out tacho, transmision, doors, ABS, Air bags, country, and if made by Cami or in Japan.
Swapping between Suzuki and Geo sometimes works. No guarantee on that.

In Dash Fuel pressure Gauge, a great deal. at Deftracing.com
Hard find nice guage under $100 and with sender.

Ebay is great of finding 1 connector.

Here is a major maker, from Tyco. Elect.

HOW TO WIRE YOUR TAILER UP to your Suzuki and find the cheapest parts to make it work. 
A $13 Solution!

TRANNY & Axle and Transfer case LUBEs:? 5 speed and hypoid axle gear sets.
See my tune up page on OIL and Synthetic hype.
I get all my oil-lube at NAPA, and they sell GL4 (for 5sp tranny and transfer case)
It is made by Sta_lube (CRC industries) SL24229 and 24239 both are rated GL4, see my tuneup page for details.

GL5 is not hard to find, but finding it less than $1 and ounce can be.
I like synthetic lubes/greases, but not a Polly Anna for the, hype and lies in the USA.
I run synthetic greases in my all axle bearings, and is very good. (it’s fully tested unlike, SYN snake oil motor oil in USA)
GM and Mobile 1 GL5 are great. Mobile 1 syn lube is not rated GL4 (says Mobile 1)

One of the best GL5 Gear lubes for ASTM D2270,VI (194! rated), performance is: http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/sgo.html
Amazing GM Synthetic Axle 75W-90 gets a ASTM-D-2783 welded ball test rating of 400!
And GM lube beat them all on LOADWEAR!

Last is good news, you can run GF5, if you read page 17 here. See, GL5 that dont EAT synchro rings. CHEERS!
At the risk of seeming like a AMSOIL automatron… I’m NOT! In fact I don’t like THEM, so dont buy THEIR products.
There are GL5 lubes you can run in you gear box. Read the tests, see who does badly.
(I’d give small credence {fox and chicken house} to the list orders) just look at the numbers.)


See paragraph 10, at above link,sometimes blocked Take a look at the Gear Lube White Paper
Pay no attention to the AMSOIL orders, but do look at the gear metal oxydatioin tests. and the failures!
Do not put GL5 lube that fails the brass test, in you gear box. Run GL4 if you can’t find compliant GL5.
You can run SYN GL5 in the gear box, if you like how it shifts (many don’t) and you can pick from that chart on page 17.

If trying to save money or just don’t drive fast or light duty, this works great.
I use 3 why rated GL3/4/5 from NAPA I run Sta_lube SL24229

Never do:
Never run GL4 only rated lube in any AXLE (only GL5 rated Hypoid gear lube, or better)
Never run GL3 only rated, lube in any Suzuki. 89-98 and I think,newer.

Do run GL4 or better, in any 5 speed or transfer case, the newer GL5’s can work too, if you like how it shifts, see link above.

News flash:
API (slow they are) promises a new a GL-6 spec soon, this may help greatly.

Ways and means:
I warm it in the microwave for 2 minutes lid OFF) ( a pan of boiling water works too) in Cold weather.
Never try to put oil down the shifter hole (shifter removed, it won’t go)

Trick 1: NAPA way.
Then I do this!

Pennzoil has it.

The best oils are Group 4 oils, now matter what the started out as, in the beginning…

Trick 2: Jack up rear bumper (not axle), warm the oil and in she goes easy.

Trick 3: HERE:

The list of top Gear lubes rated by Amsoil ( not independant, so don’t believe #1) Some of them do real bad, if you read the tests above.
IN NO ORDER: Some top lubes.
1. AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90
2. Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90
3. GM Synthetic Axle 75W-90
4. Castrol SYNTEC 75W-90
5. Red Line Synthetic 75W-90
6. Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90
7. Valvoline SynPower 75W-90
8. Castrol Hypoy C 80W-90
9. Torco SGO Synthetic 75W-90 with Torco Type G LS Additive
10. Valvoline High Performance 80W-90
11. Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90
12. Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W-90
13. Mopar Synthetic 75W-90 with Mopar LS additive
14. Lucas 75/90 Synthetic

Lamps: (most are easy, below are hard because Suzuki don’t post Japan spec. to GE or CM spec conversions)
The little horror to replace them is here.

These are GM spec.’s but in Japan they use different numbers ( they use CP candle power…). So GM converted them to off shelf GE numbers (ubiquitous, here)
Instrument panel illumination lamps #158 (2) not Idiot lamps. This are wired to the Parking Dimmer circuit. ( these are T-3-3/4 wedge base)
Insrument panel warning (Idiot) lamps #74 T-1/3/4 wedge base lamp. 14v. 0.10 amps, many in the I/P cluster.
The CEL lamp is special GE # 18 is far weaker 0.040 (40ma) lamp, and must be so. T-1-3/4. Do not use higher Amp’s lamp as this overloads the ECU CEL transistor! Don’t do that,please.
Do not exceed, 0.100 amps on the CEL lamp, or you will be and unhappy camper!



One can buy LED subs, for this, but why bother? keep the dimmer low and they last for ever. Truly.

The side lights are #194 bulbs. (parking circuits)

Dome lamp 8mm X 31mm (diam x length) 12v 1watt Festoon lamps are very hard to find. So buy an LED replacement.

REAR Axles and Bearings /Seals: (see my R&R page)
I agree, rear axle bearings and seals, can be hard to find.
OEM only parts, are:
Axle retainer collet, and outer retainer bracket that holds axle outer seal, if you damage it.
Outer seal, there is no aftermarket seal! 99-05

Aftermarket parts for axle, rear:
Bearings, SKF, BR30306 Timken 206FF or Timken 511004 (new design replaces collar)
Inner seal, SKF, 18452 or National/Timken 224820 (Inner means, INBOARD )
Outer seal, SKF, 17113, or National/Timken, 710193 (outer means, outboard of main shaft bearing)

99-05 Vitara USA + 05 Grand Vitara Timken (best) Amazon best price. or National, just don’t use China no name parts.
Bearing. 511024 40x23x80mm or SKF GRW108 Timken 511024
Inner seal 710522 or SKF 20902 Timken 710522
Outer seal ( NONE) listed under brake/wheel hub not rear axle. and is OEM only., (rumor has it, that 710192 might fit) Suz PN is 43593-65D00!
outer seal was marked NOK 48532E (impossible to track/find or cross)
GM P/N is 91177345 outer seal
GM P/N for whole retainerwith seal is 30021024 ( tanks to MAX!)
Studs if bad, are Raybestos 27776B or Dorman 610336, Wagner BD61466 ( 12x38mm 1.25 pitch)

The bearings and inner seals are sold at all auto stores. (outer seals, not starting for 99 year model become OEM only part)


Exploded views:

A real photo of axle, coming out.

Watch the video of the full process.

The FSM from GM has an error in the re-assembly steps. Section 4B, fails to say follow page 5C backing plate install rules.
It fails to say that the rear backing plate must be RTV (sealant) on both sides of the brake mount plate to bearing area.
I found out, that this is covered in the rear brake service page 5C1-6 for backing plate removals, and the error is chapter 4 not mentioning chapter 5:
I updated chapter 5 as folllows, look!

Pull the axle with any slide hammer. (a common and generic tool, even sold at Harbor Freight for cheap)
The axles have different lengths. (no you can’t swap them side to side)

Key Suzuki P/N for the Axles bearings. 1989 to 1998 1.6L only. Left and right side.
outer seal – 09284-45001
brearing —09269-35010 ( 35x80x21mm size)
inner seal–09382-48003

revised 4-9-2011

My locking front wheel hubs have a large O-rings:

My best match up for this (other than GEO(GM) and Suzuki dealers) is pn:-040-BN70 (size is -040 the BN0 it Viton) MANUAL HUBS ONLY.
These seals are 50 cents at: ORingsUSA.com.
Why pay more? get a life time supply for $2
I can not guarantee my measurements on this part, so my -040 is a theory. Finding an exact metric O-ring like it is hard. So I used USA inches.
SUZ PN: Hub O-rings.
Autos inside, 43838-83000
Autos outside 43815-83000
Manual innner: 43838-60A00 no manual outer rings.

Oil sender secrets and how to attach a real gauge, and a royal PITA for sure:
OIL SENDER: (for adding a Oil pressure gauge)

The sender uses a tapered pipe thread Hole is BSPT 1/8″-28TPI (threads-per-inch) ( British STD tapered Pipe threads!) Not BSP, nor M10, not NPT, nor ISO pipe!
Its 100% old school British parts on a 100% metric, car. odd, to the extreem, and I’d not want to cross thread it with NPT parts (NPT is USA standard)
British Standard Pipe Tapered Threaded (BSPT
(tpi = threads per inch) NPT = National Pipe thread, (USA standard).
You will need this Adapter ( to fit USA NPT pipe) Our size is NPT 1/8″-27tpi pipe thread, please do not cross thread N.American NPT onto BSPT.

CrossThreading it:
This is the oil gallery and must be treated with respect. (if it ruptures driving, you can kiss off that motor)
Crossthreading NPT to BSPT invites failure of the thread or having the tread peel out and get in to the oil gallery and then the 050 head orifice clogs( bye-bye motor time).

My Adaptor Sources:
My Autometer 2269 was not tapered and would not fit. it was defective ( others, many report theirs was ok) but this is my second bad Autometer part.){bad batch from China it was}
Source 2, (for $20) get this Harbor Freight pn 92699 fuel pressure set, and that part in the center of the photo fits like a glove and is BSPT.(fits like a glove)
Source 3: pn 28860 at FASTFITTING.com
Source 4: Cut old sender in half and braze in a 1/8th NPT or what ever you want.

Once adaptor is in place, you can put in any 1/8″-27 NPT, USA National Pipe threaded T-fitting and plumb in the new gauge direct.
I found only 1 NPT low pressure oil sender that fits NPT Airtex 1S6597 (alt. 1S6547) At rockauto.com ( you can search by PN there)
Stewart Warner makes adjustible pressure switches, some guys like to set it to 15psi.
The NPT sender is cheaper than Female BSPT to NPT adapter. So I got a new USA type NPT Sender. I fits a NPT T-fitting perfectly.
I dont like staking a huge T- Fitting on any engine block so is just use 1/8 Copper tube from the bock to the guage and nothing else.
If you do stack things, the metal will shake and fatigue. Failure here will for sure blow the motor. (zero PSI oil pressure is, a bummer!)
Do not use nylon plastic meter oil lines, use 1/8″ copper and make a 3″ diameter (or more, so it dont kink) coil near the block. (a flex coil ).
The plastic is infamous for early failures.

Secret 2: The stock sender switch closes at just below 4.5 PSI (SUZ SPEC) the switch is normally open with valid oil pressures (51psi min at 3000 rpm)
The Oil Pump spring regulator,dictates the high pressure. value.

The SUZ spec. allows the sender to be as low as 3 PSI ( motor died long ago; when it is that low).

FUEL RAIL: (similar topic and sources) The “source 2″above fuel gauge set, has the correct hose for checking Fuel filter tap pressure.
The 16v Sidekicks and Trackers have a fuel rail and the front plug can be replaced with the below adaptor. (no laying on your back under car doing fuel pressure test)

The Autometer AM 2267 works perfect for the application.
I had to buy 2 fittings, because the first looked like this, See my classic useless adaptor here.
More China junk parts.
I use my adaptor to run a permanent fuel pressure gauge ( an electric sender on rail)

DIY: (do not use air system schrader valves only use fuel rated!)
One can make their own fitting by drilling and tapping the front rail plug (stock) to fit a standard Schrader fuel valve.
All fuel gauge sets, support Schrader format!

Fan Resistor secrets: ( Your blower works on only some speeds? It can be the switch too! See why here)
 click to zoom it.

Steps: Schematic is here.

  • Squeeze the sides of the glove box, releasing the rear 2 catches. The box then drops all the way down.
  • Dead center on blower front cage housing, is an air cooled resistor block.
  • Remove the connector from it. (it has locks, press them inward)
  • remove the resistor block with 1 screw. SUZ PN. 74290-60A30 (rockauto.com has them too, using an aftermarket and different PN)
  • Look at the 3 coils, if any are broken it is bad, if they look good measure them.
  • With any resistance meter they will read, both small coils 0.5 ohms and big one is 1 ohm. if they read good the Fan Switch is bad. (or as always broken wires)
  • I had one 0.5 center coil broken (burned open) so I soldered in Radio Shack 271-130 for $1.69 ( I’m testing it now,it works but do not know for how long)
  • The fan draws heavy current. 25amp fused. I will post the current at 4 voltages, so we an calculate the power dissipation better. ( work in progress!)

After market resistors;
AIRTEX Part # 4P1539

Hint if the blower is dead on all speeds, this part above is good.
The fan switch on HIGH, bypasses this resistor block.

Facts: (measured) fan on high draws 8.5amps, engine off key on. but running it draws 9.7Amps battery charging ( 14.7v).
Data point 2: on M2 position the draw is 6amps.
So the fan draw, is 143 watts on high worst case. A home made chopper is the best way to drive any DC motor.
I will measure and calculate each resistors power dissapation. Later…
M2, ( one below high)
The 1 ohm has 6 amps flowing ( actual measured) P= I ² x R or 6
² = 36 times R of 1 = 36 watts across the 1 ohm in M2 mode.
The low setting “L” increases the ohms to 2 total and the current drops to 3amps (estimate).
Again I ² times R results in total wattage of 3 squared is 9 and times 2ohms is 18watts ( total across all three)
The puts 9 watts on the the 1ohm and 4.5 watts on each 1/2 ohm coil resistor.
Now the M1 settting with 1.5ohms total resistance.
Current will be 4.5 amps. “I” squared is equal to 20.25 ( times 1ohm = 20 watts ) and time 0.5 ohms is 10.125 watts.
Now we see why M1 likes to burn up. stay off of M1 position.
I also know the resistance raises with these buggers get hot. but my M2 readings are real and dead accurate.
MyExperimental descrete resistors are from here, too.
Done, mine works like new for $1.50 with the RadioShack part.

An alternate to the stock fan controller i here, DIY.
A PWM controller, you can make. Pulse Width Modulated fan controller, continiously variable, with little heat.

Kits are available here. $24

A bad fan switch, mine warped in the sun, and tie wraps fixed it.

THOSE HEAD BOLTS: (8v are easy to find, this section is 16v only) Suzuki 8v P/N is 11119-82000 (1989 to 1995 ) 1.3 or 1.6L

Head bolts are for sure, the most difficult parts find and buy for Suzuki engines.(non OEM parts):
The 16v has allen socket head bolts on my 1996 adn 97. No 8v bolt has a chance here.
Napa sold me bolts from Alstrom Group (for my 16v) but Alstrom says they are only for the 8v. ( they dont fit 16v) PN 058-3502
3 years later, Alstrom still sells and Ecats 8v bolts for 16v. I warned them 3 years ago.
The Correct Suzuki P/N’s are here: (all 16v ) about $5 each. x 10
11117-71C00 up to 93/94

11117-73G00 after below S/N These fit my 96 perfect
As early as body S,N P4100056~ (P=93′ year) the bolts changed. S/N means serial number at the end of the VIN.
Ask Suzuki for exact details of S/N crossover (92/93) I have no ideal at all when GM crossed over the head design but was 94 in calif. first 16v Geo

The bolts are special and are NOT TTY ( torque to yield) but they do have special washer that align and allow automatically dropping into the head recess without damaging the recess lips of the head, 8v will NEVER WORK in any 16v. For NOOBs, TTY bolts are use once, then throw away.

Best practice on all after market parts is to discover, who makes them then go to their web page catalog (ecat) and look them up yourself and by them by NAME and P/N.
This holds true with all parts, not OEM
And take your engine serial number with you and VIN if smart.
Rockauto now stocks DNJ Dometic N Jap, parts, DNK-HBK-530

The 16V HEAD:
Head springs, all 3 found, in intake,exhuast, rocker side coil springs, and 16v rocker clip horse shoe springs.

Part ID is, 11, 13, and 16. (see link photo below for location) On line IDs are not the same as Suzuki book drawings, sadly…
I think the online ID is #15 (yes) for horse shoes. 11 becomes 15, the parts IDs can not be seached on their web page.
Making the whole graphic interactrive experience a BUST.
Suzuki still sells all 3 springs, and the valve springs are sold aftermarket, (you must dig to find main valve #16 springs, and varies in time/sources)
The spring that like to break, often are the horse shoe. My wife says it’s and IUD! LOL.
Is the suzuki horse shoe (#11) 12849-71C03 coil spring seen here. #11 (old paper books by Suzuki (relics)

The (int/exh) valve springs are $6.44 each(2013) so $103.04 for 16 valve springs, plus tax and high ship.

The link at a new spring is here. $3/ea.

The 8v springs, are another matter. and has no horse shoe springs.

All this parts are listed at Suzuki, see diagrams?


The Fuel Filter bracket is not sold by any dealer, in fact there is NO P/N listed for one., the book and parts lists say, fabricate one. (WOW)


The 2WD has a center back of Transfer case, CV Joint. It is over $400 new and no one sells spares,etc. ZERO after market SUPPORT!
Lesson learned NEVER buy a 2WD Zuk, ever, unless converting it, as in my plan.
The boot, cracks and throws out the grease. Split CV boot repair kit. Finding a correct size was not easy.
So, I found a front CV that works. with careful ART cutting to fit.
Dorman makes kit too.

Solvent Welded CV Joint Split Boot Kit

Part Number: 614-531, I got it here.
It was not fun making it fit.


CSF imported Radiators, some are all brass!

Spectra Premium (very good) Use this Ecat to see all variants and do read each core size carefully, not just the pin mounts!
Do not buy the M/T Rad, they are too expensive, always buy A/T rad and ignore the extra fittings for M/T applications.

First find out what size RAD you have. CORE HEIGHT and WIDTH. (do not measure brace on car or RAD shell,just the actual core size and WIN.

The Red sizes are easy to measure. (it is complex with X90 G16 engines, 1.8L engines, and 2 and 4 door cars.

Mfg name and P/N & aprox. core size  GM Tracker spec. Base Pin
Spacing “
Suzuki Side kick spec. G16 unless stated… OEM
Spectra Premium CU1864 W19xH17 96-97 17.375 95-98? doors All marked VIN 0. ?
Spectra Premium CU2089 W19xH15 96-97 17.75″ and used Suzuki x90′ cars ?
Spectra Premium CU1330 W19xH14.7 89-95 17.75″ 89-96 2 doors Harrison
Spectra Premium CU1118 W20xH14.7 89-95 18.50″ 89-98 4 doors DENSO
Spectra Premium CU2087 W20.6xH16.7 n/a unk. Suzuki Sport. 1.8L A/T VIN code 2(eng.) ?
Spectra CU2210, M/T only n/a unk. Sport 1.8L M/T J18 engine VIN 2. ?

If your RAD fits, masure the core size and you will match up very well, many to brands of RAD clearly state the core size, saving the day.
All 2 door and all 4door Kicks have unique RAD frame Stay mounts.
Sadly, no store even asks door count, oddly.
I searched all over for Radiator P/N to door counts and it does not exist, and is crucial. (if the core size is not stated)
Suzuki G16 cars here 1.6L (only) shows code 0 VIN for both engines. VIN (USA) making selection of radiators harder. The body VIN code, has engine codes on all Suzuki here.
Suzuki dealer parts lists, show 20 OEM radiators used with just the 1.6L motor 89-98′ (most Suzuki parts counteres show “discontinued” Spectra does cover 5 sizes.
Suzuki has different radiators on the following criterion. Year, Doors, Tranny, Engine, Denso or Harrison. (ouch!)
My guess, is that Suzuki /GM at the CAMI plant, used Denso and Harrison Radiators, and flopped back as supplies veried, in real time.
Warning, some great imported full brass radiators, have non standard gas cap, I had to look in my boxes of new caps at the local auto store to find one that would fit.

I recommend buying a RAD, in a local store. (even carrying yours in, by hand and dropping it on the counter, check bottom mount distances and core size carefully)
They might guess right 25% of the time, but you won’t pay shipping 3 times.
I hope my chart above, helps get the correct Core. (the core size is measured inside the frame and inside the tank edges)
Some nice all brass clone radiators have the wrong CAP neck,making the Suzuki correct cap fail.
The auto store said the Stant #11233 would fit.
My local auto part store didn’t carry this brand, but used the info to cross reference to a Murray #7516 brand cap which fit perfectly.
These cap’s fit a 93 Geo Storm (a Storm is an ISUZU IMPULSE) (my guess 1990 to 1993, made only 3 years) Not sure if it fits the 1.8L twin came engine… may be 1.6l ONLY…

New, Used, refurbished, or send them out to ultrasound cleaning! $19 cleaning them in the shop is not very good.
Here is my TBI injector report.

For the color coded injectors, like found on V6, 2.0L see these orange injectors.

Another injector table 

A much larger list:

Here are the Suzuki P/N for the common Injector MPI ( all suzuk injector are PN prefixed by 15710-xxxxx
Gasoline (petrol) only:

MPI: Multipoint Injectors
92-98 1.6L = 15710 – 58B00 Boshtech MP3041 Suzuki wants $260 for one injectors (and next male child)
all years, except were stated.
15710 – prefix same.
1.8L = 77EA0 Bostech MP4105 96-98 1.8L sports code red.
2.0 I4 = 65D00 Bostech MP4115 99-03 and newer Vitara’s orange code
2.0 V6 = 77E00 Vitara SV620 Orange coded ND. Nippon Denso. 200cc? veh. not sold in USA. ww searches nets me zero.
2.5L V6 = 67D00 Bostech MP4172 99-05 Vitara’s and GV and XL7 green code.
2.7L V6 = 52D00 Bostech MP4194

1.6L MPI 92-98 Sidekicks.
Reburbished injectors are easy to find and go for $35 – $60 each.
Many 16v Kicks run Nikki INP470 injectors. 172cc @3 bar flow rates. Or a simular ND injector.
Bostech MP3041
CVU 32-11143

TBI: Throttle Body Injectors.
Cleaning TBI injectors at home is impossible, you will burn up the 1 ohm coil inside trying. (or Blow of the ECU, if it is connected too.)
Get it cleaned, with Ultrasound!!!
Suzuki wants $336 for a new one.

Witchhunter has the best deal for R&R service. (any gasoline injector, at all)

8 valve TBI injector CV unlimited 31-17101 is best deal.

Rockauto.com has the best choices but watch them mix up TBI and MPI on one page under TBI only CAR.

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TJ49 is a good deal too. at ROCK.

Good selections:
http://www.injectorwarehouse.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=&[email protected]@1992&mode=MK
see p/n.
GB Part#: 831-17101




KickDOWN (TV or DETENT) CABLES: (A GM little nightmare?)
I can not help you find Any GM/GEO parts. What I do is find the matching Suzuki part and order that.
I have no idea, the cut over dates for GM kick down cables. (92′ is my guess guess based on below facts)
Suzuki can NOT track or understand any VIN numbers of GM. Not ever. That is why, I made this list.
Do not tell SUZUKI you have a GEO, DO NOT! or the reverse, Do not tell GM you have a Suzuki!
Yes, carry the cable in and ask for matching G16 cables. Sure. (tell them year, and tranny type and engine type) and BINGO.

GM started using there own 3speed GMF Strasbourg, France, in 1992 and may have a different cable? in 92? (ask GM? LOL!) GM sold this plant in 2013.
I did see that only the main A/T casting changed in 1992 to A10
The CAMI plant built both GM Trackers and Sidekicks (and even German Vitara’s ) and the build list and changes vary by year and VIN.

Suzuki parts, for kickdown TV cables.:
SUZ. P/N 1.6L
3sp = 15940-61A00 (89-91) $51.
In 1992( the Suzuki EPC 2004 verson) has a contradiction, (why? I am not sure)
TBI page: 15940-61A00 Just like early years (I suspect? this an error, not one page mentions VIN serial starts on this part)
then on 3sp, shifter parts page, 28250-61A50 (note how this matches, 1996) {is this the square end type?} Now we know the wrong parts get sent.
Square end = France?
USE THE ONLINE SUZUKI search box to find these, parts.
4sp = 24751-57B01 (92 and up) flash: 24751-57B00 has been superceed to 24751-57B01,

4sp = 1996-98 is 24751-57B01

3sp 1996 -98 used 1 cable 28250-61a50 $65 (as you can see the used the 4sp)

4sp 1.8L DOHC 1996 -98 is 24751-77EA0 $118

After market cables.
There 3 brands, now, Dorman, ATP and Pioneer, all three have online E-catalogs and all show nothing or way less than what is sold in stores.
Amazon has them, so does Oriellys. (Napa told me none, 2013)
Take your old cable in to the store lay it on the counter and say match it, show them the 3 number below and pray.
Try to keep in mind, your A/T may have been changed 3 times, is 22 years. OK?
On 3 speed, there are square end and round end cables, match yours. Try to keep in mind, tranny swaps, exhanges. (20 years is a long time?)
Rumor has it,Square end is 92 and up (3sp)
ATP makes
Y-1174 cable.

Dorman 04445

A Pioneer CA1967 (O’riellys has this and 1 other)

Google Dorman Ecatalog, and ATP ecatalog (it’s a google first hit) and a bad dream.

2012 cables made by ATP. (4 hits of many via GOOGLE) by P/N
This 3sp cable is sold at Rockauto.com

ATP-Y-1174-Detent-Cable on Amazon.



Here is Orielly’s, 1 Dorman, and 1 pioneer. take yours and do SHOW and TELL… there is no other way, GM is dead on this so… Show em.


8 valve TBI Gasket KITS!
8 Valve throttle body gasket kit, Rockauto has them.
The ACdelco company stopped making the $9- $16 set ( sadly).
The only company is that which is shown on Rockauto and O’reilly’s for $36
The extra parts in the kit are for, Calif car, 91 diff ISC, and 89/90 A/T car has a base heater and 2 gaskets that is not present on 91+ or on M/T cars. Unversal kit!

97-98 Tracker Front axle down grade kit, from GEO to SUZUKI with 6×2 parts
[ 100% KICKFIX THEORY] this allows the usage of the the more common axle nut tightening tool and standard locking hubs.
Some after market locking hubs don’t fit GM 97-98 Trackers, due to the 97+ wavy nut and nut lock device.

See my bearing service page for this and better photos.

SUZUKI Partn numbers, P/N off 96 Suz. EPC
ID —–P/N ———–NAME?

22–43466-60A00–nut RING
23–02122-04083–SCREWS ORDER 4
20–09380-26004–SNAP RING CLIP

Front bearings and seals.
Parts Sources:
Rockauto.com and Napa, Oriellys, and many others stock great bearing parts.
The front bearing (3 piece set, not ever available in pieces):
Timkin or National bearing co.’s P/N
517009 P/N = Part Number This numbers are not store SKU numbers.!

The inner seal (touching spindle ) is:
Timken Pn. 710239
(outer seal is 710240 ) [ National uses same P/N for both}

You can cross the above numbers at the KOYO, or many other bearing company parts on their own web pages.
For O-rings on locking axle hubs, look here.

Manual Transmission, 5 Speed, shifter plastic bushing that fails (shifter so sloppy can’t shift?) 89-98′
These parts fit the SPORT 1.8L J18 5 speeed to, and transfer case shifter.
These parts are not sold in generic stores.
(with the rare exeception of some, random 4wd shops do stock them, they just buy them from Suzuki and markup retail to 200%+ price…)

( Only SUZUKI sells them, but ONLINE Suzuki don’t list them!, nor do they list 1/2 the parts online 1989-98′, even when in STOCK.)
The shifter drawing pages, online are missing (see below for real page of of a real Suzuki paper parts catalog sold used on EBAY)
But are sold by Suzuki still, even in 2015!
( copy these numbers and paste them in to the online search box at Suzuki ONLINE)

Alway check with Suzuki, for revised numbers. (It is corrected after the search is done, automatically)
Questions asked and answers?:
1: Can I replace the spring under the stick end? Answer, no, it’s captive in the shaft. You need to buy a new shaft #1,
2: The small boot around that spring. NO, it to, is captive to #1. (short of cutting it in half and rewelding shaft) Suzuki does not sell the spring or the this boot.

The 5sp shifter plastic Ring ID 19, is 28117-60A00 $3.98 The 4wd shift lever uses a simular seat but the P/N is 29535-60A00 $5

The 5sp shifter tip or BUSH, plastic ID 27, is 25551-60A02 $4 < (very critical for clean and crisp shifting! sloppy shifter is this part bad.) The 4wd lever does not use a bush.

The 5sp whole shifter #1 is 28101 -60A02, if spring on bottom breaks, you need this part. (in 1996+ P/N# changed to 28101-60AC0)

Part #36 Special shoulder hardened Screws are 09135-08006 (better washers in 94+)

The knob is part ID #2 = 28113-60A00

Clamp ID 5 is the boot clamp. = 9401-57901

Part #13 rubber plugs, like to fall out and cause leaks. 09250-1006 (a major killer of M/T running it dry)
(use vehicle rubber seal trim cement, to hold them in, or RTV (clean oil off with carb cleaner first)

When you buy a part by ID, you get just that part (only) unless you see ID’s forming braces, in that case, you get all braced parts.
The drawing below is missing on all online Suzuki web sites (USA). GM (GEO) only has part 4 below in stock and NO DRAWINGS AT ALL FOR transmissions issues of ANY KIND.

The Drain (and level check) plugs are all the same, on the 5 speed and transfer case box. and fit both GM (GEO) Tracker and Suzuki both, GM RAN OUT.
The drain bolts are 10mm square socket drive not 3/8″ all parts on car are metic, and for sure not factional malarkly. In fact using 3/8″ is with wrecks them.
Suzuki P/N is 09246-16010

Blinker / flasher / Turn Signal relay (its not a true relay its and electronic flasher) 
A regular relay (electromechanical or thermal) will not work and fail. ( and many stores in town send you home with this wrong part)
The relay is found here, at ID# 41. LHD (left hand drive)
The schematic is here.

Suzuki has the part. 38610-50A01
1985 to 2003 (some claim to 97 or 98′)
Most stores sell the wrong part, Napa has both right and wrong,.
Note the photos in store views. See 3 pins?(WRONG PART the LF12) it must have 3 pins, and be electronic.
I think this works, at NAPA, the EP34 relay.

SMP P/N EFL8T (HD + 3 year warr.) or EFL8 ( light duty, 1 year warr.)

Tridon EL34 (autozone has it)

AC-Delco F3853

Real: p/n (suzuki part number)
$71 at Suzuki + tax and shipping

Main Relay: (the only 9 pin relay under dash, and the only relay under dash with a large Pink-black wire (pump drive wire))
Only the 1989/90 are not hard to find,, and here is the factory Suzuki P/N # 31850-60A10 @$112 bucks,

The alternate above (more expensive) to this orig. part is from SMP (BWD): SMP # RY-952 See Ecatalog.
SMP makes lots of parts that fit this car, In fact, a top supplier, as are rebuilt parts by Cardone.

The SMP Ecatalog has a crossreference, page, and If you insert “31850-60A10” in to this page, you get RY-952.

RockAuto.com sells the above for $146 bucks, more $,than Suzuki!

Next, is the 91-95 relay set, Green means fuel, as does the large pink wires.
The below is above drivers left knee (LHD) USA:

1991-95 8V, the Main and Fuel pump relay are seperate, Suzuki p/n #31850-80c10 (yes, you can swap them) $33+ new at SUZ.
SMP RY225 costs $10 at rockauto. and fits both relays positions. Add A “T” at the end of P/N and get Heavy duty verson for $1 more.

96 Both Main ane FP relays are same, Suz P/N # 38850-50F50 and are moved to the right side heater box in USA RHD cars.
97-98 both relays are now, 38860-70E10

Suzuki uses VIN 0 for both 8 valve and 16valve engines. so rotors are hard to buy.
Here are the real P/N’s#: USA only.
1989 to 1990 G13/G16 Bosch BOSCH Part # 04200 or STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS (SMP) Part # JR75, or AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 4R1114
1991 to 1995 8v and 16v uses SUZ # 33310-60C31 (revised from C30) external coil. Bosch 04273 or AirTex 4R1054A, I like the SMP (BWD) #JR144T (the “T” is heavyduty)
1996 to 1998, SUZ# 33310-70E01 (all G16 are 16v now) the induction coil is inside the distributor now and the main shaft has a new diameter.
1996-1998 J18 engine (vin 2) has no rotor or cap. (its a COP spark engine)
Many stores have not a clue, as to what rotors to offer due to the above VIN reasons.

Other GM/Geo P/N’s but mostly useless but, are HERE.

5sp and transfer case 10mm square drive 5sp and transfer case/axle drain plugs removers:



Amazon has this.


All information above is subject to change and any time.

Best place for asking questions is FixKick forum.

2 thoughts on “Hard to purchase, find or BUY car parts. (OE & OEM and non-OEM)”

  1. hey there and thank you for your information – I have certainly picked up anything new from right here.
    I did however expertise several technical points using this web site, since
    I experienced to reload the site lots of times previous to I could get it to load correctly.
    I had been wondering if your hosting is OK? Not that I am complaining, but slow loading instances
    times will often affect your placement in google and can damage your quality score if advertising and marketing with Adwords.
    Well I’m adding this RSS to my e-mail and can look out for much more of your respective fascinating content.
    Make sure you update this again soon..

  2. Career auto tech learning ecm repair out of necessity (and curiosity) here.
    My personal 89Tracker MT.
    I’ve pulled out my ECM and cracked it open. yep. C4 did just that, spewed acid on the board.
    After removing the offending Rubycons and cleaning up the surface, found a few more items visibly damaged.
    Removed R40 since it was only connected on one end, dug through my “radioshack closing sale drawers” and pulled out a 1k ohm 1/6w resistor to replace it.
    Removed D6 (marked 27 840x), and D22(Markings lost to acid?)

    I have not been able to find any info online for these two diodes.
    D22 appears to be a 3pin diode made in series? P/NP/N ?


Leave a Comment