I have no cab heat, or is very poor.
See NO BLOW here.
This page can apply to all cars, with a bad cab heater, or frigid engine. ( Don't fiddle heater parts, until the air bags are defeated, of fitted to car. (can kill or mame any mechanic or DIY )
Here are the rules, of thermodynamics for this liquid to Air heat exchanger system (classical) ( must have Hot coolant flow and air flow) just 2 rules below:
On this page I will attempt to cover all Sidekicks and Trackers, 89 to 2004, and even new Grand Vitara's that use motor dampers.....
Given the blower works perfectly (if dead, check its fuse in the cab fuse panel, get full blower fan flow. (if not, see dead fuse, or bad switch or resistor block below)
See my heater box slide show (Sidekick) (new)
The Damper evolution : (this history, shows how inportant the FSM is on cars with mode motors, they all work different)
1989 to 1998 are 100 % cable systems (all modes and heat)
HVAC systems can have 1 motor or 3. Some are a mix of damper motors and cables and vacuum servo's , some car makers call these, Electric damper Acutators. A fancy name for a motor and cheap plastc gears inside.
The bad news is each brand of motor works differently and eash have a very UNIQUE TEST, detailed in the FSM.
The first year, GV, 1999 to 2002 Grand Vitara, uses one single motor , same as the Vitara. See resistance test here. monster 4 mode control motor,
Starting in 2003 the Grand Vitara, has the new 3 mode actuator motors and an electronic controller to make it all work.
Even my 2004 Chevy Tracker uses a full cable system and no water valve. No damper motors here. GM uses different parts, oddly than any Vitara. (so make sure you are looking at the correct FSM)
The 04 Vitara uses 2 cables and this motor (see test here).
Get your FSM , buy it and read the HVAC sections for your car. FSM = Factory Service Manual, as sold at your dealer or used at fleabay. (or Helm.com) Suzuki's are here, at pitstop.
< click me to zoom.
Be happy, your old Suzuki don't have these expensive and complex motors above. Note , the easy to break plastic parts, inside?...... (have a deep pocket, ready) Over $100 a POP !
End history and review:
Bad Heater controls, fan switch (1 or more speeds dead )
Hard failures. (fuses good)
Lots of IF's:
If the fan runs at full speed and the cab heat is poor check for weak heat ,at the 2 cab heater hoses between the Firewall and the engine. (I use an IR gun ,and see 170F or more, my new 195F thermostat , even more....)
If the heater hose, is too cool, then the core in the heater is packed up, or the fittings/plumbing, feeding said tubes, are packed up. (assumes engine coolant at thermostat housing is 180F or more.)
If engine dont' reach proper temperatures then you have and engine over cooling failure.
If the engine is fully hot, and those heater core 2 hoses are hot ( 180F+) AND the fan is running at full speed on high, cap is still frigid?, then the heater flaps are jammed closed. See all damper flaps here.
The old Suzuki has no water valve (heat lever) it has a flap that blocks or allows air to pass through the core , so the water flows through the core 24/7 (always ) Flaps, doors, dampers all are same meaning.
Make sure the cables to the flaps (Suzuki calls them dampers) are working, and the outer sheath is not flexing (moving). (only the inner wire must move and the end ,of wire must move the damper arms)
If the fan is dead ( or one speed is dead) (heater fan in cab) then check the heater resistor block. Seen here.
Resistor Block?: Remove glove box door ,2 screws, see that resistor ( it's air cooled) and a bad resistor ( they are a naked type) will be blown to bits. (gone).
Now we are at the last point, The core is hot, the engine is hot the flaps are open the fan failing, (whole or in part ,fan fail).
THE CORE PULL, SLIDE SHOW.
Water flow: (a fully hot engine 180F+ degree's)
If you put your hand (for 1 second max) on to both heater core hoses, passing through the fire wall, and one is very cool, that is a sign that you have a clogged core (or source feeds, your are touching now, are clogged) (now is the time for a full cooling back flush now , huh?)
THE FAN SWITCH and speed limiting resistor block.
Step one, is to make sure that Fuse 12 is good. (12vdc on both sides key on)
We now have a bad fan switch.
The FSM page 14 shows the access points. RTM ! (off site)
My 97 Heater switch was warped bad. by the heat of the Sun.
Cooked it to DEATH and almost all Sidekicks this year , are failed or about to.
The side clips warped (pop) and can no longer retrain the switch guts.
I fixed mine this way, because none of the tiny parts ,were missing inside. (1 ball and spring)
Tie warps solved this issues perfectly! FINDING a good switch , is near impossible (as I write)
In a nut shell: The switch ACCESS methods. 1996/97 (some 98s are more complex with buttons, so get help from the 98 FSM)
My 97 the switch had plastic snaps (Cami) no screws the plastic warped from sun and sprung, so (after contact clean and lube) I used tie wraps to secure it for 100 more years. LOL
Do not remove switch internals in the car, go to a place you can find the parts that fly out. 1 spring , contact and a tiny ball bearing inside. Don't lose them.
The side of the switch , has the P/N and Suzuki says , can not be had. (last digit 0 ,was missing on my connector P/N) By the way P/N = part number......
Photo 1: Whole Switch out, internals, in place and a spare to the right.
Below is 96/97 in 1998 pushbutton option was added., below has snap out switch. In 1996 the switch is part of total assembly and not sold seperately. (not up to now). So will be expensive. $120 or so. But ACdelco has one for $50 and so does, SMP SM404.
Mixing switches between CAMI and JAPAN versions or years, is a problem... as is Generation changes..... (you won't know what you have in the car until you look, carefully)
The switches vary by if A/C is present or not, year, and what factory PLANT made it.
The Suzuki switch is Discontinued. As is the total assembly seen below.
The GM is still sold. (GEO) 30007405 and 7399. My GEO parts book does not show all versions. of switches.
Photo 2: 1992 to 1995, Sidekick. SHOWS the switch as seperate, and very hard to find. below is Japan, version 64ABO is CAMI plant version (VIN prefix tells plant)
The drawing clearly shows, JAPAN switch is missing. (did suzuki use wrong drawing here?) My guess is drawing is wrong.
The blower fan switch for 89-91 is 37870-60A01, ID 29 below and is missing on the 92-95 same pages, in the Suzuki parts book. part 29 below mates to right side of part 37 above. If found, its more like $38 part, unlike above.
The switch is still sold at Suzuki but not the whole assembly 37 above.
Rumor has it that the full 96/97 assembly will fit earlier years.
Amazon sells it, the one SMP switch assembly. for 92-97GEO Tracker , ACDelco 15-73369, and at $50 a great price.
That motor resistor block is next topic:
The resistor block is bad if fan ONLY fails below HIGH, There are no RELAYS and the fan always runs on high , if the above switch is good.
Remove glove box door to reach the resistor block. The block is sold in almost all autostores, see my buy parts page here.
Typical early wiring:
Most wiring looks like this. Typical of all 92 to 1995. see the other generations, here.
The blower must blow on high. If not , remove glove box door and hot wire the fan, using a 12vdc battery with 15 amp inline fused jumper wires. 16gauge wire.(per FSM hot wire rules) if it blows, good, the blower is good, (easy , huh?)
If it don't blow hot wired, the blower blower is bad
If the blower is working on high but not other speeds the resistor block is bad (99% of time) if not then the wires or switch is bad, any voltmeter on earth can find this failure ,even a $10 walfart meter.
A volt meter finds this failure easy, 12vdc to a dead blower pink wire. is a dead motor.
If 12vdc does not reach, the blower motor, then check at switch high pink pin? if this is dead (0v) then move meter to lt-grn wire pin, of switch, if dead ? (0v), then the fuse is blown or that wire is cut , check for 12vdc on both sides of the fuse 12. if one side is dead, that be a blown fuse.
Fuses that look blown are.
Fuses that look good, can in FACT be bad.
Here are the official Suzuki part numbers: for the above RARE switch all prefixed with 74400-
1989 Iwata -60A10 (early year in japan made) not in stock .
1989.5 to 1991 CAMI -60A11 (Suzuki stocks these)
92-95 CAMI 64AB0
92-95 Iwata 64A11 (says with motor, ouch) (SMP clone HS404) Amazon ?
96/97 Iwata 64A12
1998 Iwata 78E10 (stocked)
Buy them (stocked) at the 4 links shown here, called Dealers list.
GM may sell them (Geo Tackers) see 1995 LSI example here.
CAMI is the Canadian Assembly plant (GM/Suzuki owned) (now 100% GM , Suzuki , no longer makes cars in CAMI plant !
And in 2012, Suzuki USA is shuting down,here and in Canada, the new car sales, and way less over the counter dealer part windows both physical on web sales.. see actual court doc's here for "chapter 11"
rev 4 ++++ 11-1-2011 (&12-2013)