BLINKING or stuck on DASH panel warning lamps?                                                     

SEE ALL LAMPS FOR ALL CARS (huge list of graphic lamp symbols and English true names)
DO NOT IGNORE THE LAMPS: (I will only cover the show stoppers, not the simple seatbelt switch, etc)  USA only. and only 1989 to present, and only EFI cars.
When you key on, no start, the lamps do a self test.  Read the operators guide, it tells you this fact.  and if lamps are burned out, replace them.
Some folks call these IDIOT lamps. due to the lack of intelligence in the lamp. (non gauges )
If the oil lamp comes on  running, stop driving or running the engine , until you have that corrected. This silly light comes on, below 3 PSI, oil,  a vary bad thing. Fix this first and don't drive.
I get 55 PSI ,just cranking a cold engine (10w-30), and over 20 PSI hot running.  3 PSI, is DOOM.!
If the  Charge lamp comes on, this means the Alternator has shut down. (no, not necessarily a bad ALT) and means the car will stall , when the battery discharges.  In 1  to 4 hours (Lights on, and off)

Do not drive with   the ABS/RWAL BRAKE Lamp (hand brake released)  Antilock Brakes Sys, or Rear Wheel AntiLock malfunctions.  RWAL is a relic, early ABS system.  on 2 rear wheels.
Do not drive with the Air BAG LAMP glowing. The FSM covers the tests for these systems, as does
Driving with critical lamps glowing  here, or warning invites , serious damage to the engine or personal safety !  ( or cascading failures).

A flashing CEL (1996+ only) literally means, you are killing your CATalyst converter "CAT". ( it will melt $oon)  An OBD2 only flash feature .(EPA laws)
All the basics for these lamps, are fully covered in the glove box operators manual.  (it tells you what to do , under these failures, read it, it's free at all dealers)

This page below peels the onion, on each system failure but  is no substitute for a REAL FSM.<96'   or the early years found here.

The Carb engine, sold in 1989, does not have an  ECU, nor any working CEL lamp, some instrument panels look like it does (flashlight played about), but there are no wires there....

Hint 1, The 1989 to 1995 Trackers and Sidekicks all use OBD1 ECU's  (only a paper clip is needed , no scan tools are sold in stores) 
Hint 2, All  USA  1996 amd newer (98' in Canada) have a OBD2 ECU/PCM and can not blink CEL lamps to get DTC codes, you need an OBD2 scan tool.  

1.6Liter G16A or B: Engines. SOHC.  (covers, OBD1 and 2) (1.8L and bigger use OBD2 ECUs and scan easy)
My TEST oil gauge  shows 50 PSI  at cold start and runs 20 PSI and above at all times. (or more with more RPM)

Are other  Idiot lamps or "warning" lamps acting odd?,  read your operators guide.  

The stock warning lamps are all powered by a single power feed, in the cluster, so of one lamp is dead ?, it's not the fuse blown to this feed. See 92-95 feed here.
If the oil lamp fails to glow key on, then check the yellow-black wire at the sender, on the left side of the engine, if it fell off?, then that is the problem, to test the lamp path, simply ground out the end of that wire.
The oil sender just closes its switch below 5 PSI.
If the IG-coil (meter) fuse blows, the gauges all die and the engine dies too.
The speedo dies because the cable is broken and see that and other cluster issues, all on one page.
The Tachometer  fails, if there is no spark,  or the meter  it's bad ,or the wires to it are bad/cut/frayed or corroded. Use a DMM to find bad connections.
To find shorts ,see here. or keeps blowing fuses.     See the end of this page for wiring inspections.

The fuel guage fails  3 ways. (sender,wire gauge)

This page here, shows how to test the cluster failures. 91-98' chapter 8C-6

Most dash lamps are not, as good as real gauges, and usually tell you something died too late , thus the idiot reference to the lamp. (the CEL is the smarter lamp)
Do add and oil gauge and voltage gauge , to the dash somewhere. My gauges have their own programmable  trip lights, that warn, where I want them to glow. (better gauges)

Last, the Engine Coolant Temperature, almost a gauge. "see Never trust link there" Hot or Cold it shows. Crude but needed.  The sender has 1 pin, not 2.

The 96 '+ Suzuki Sport (1.8L);   Has this way to get the ABS codes.        using this DLC
If you have a real scan tool, you will not need to look at the flashing CEL lamp , just use the tool    OBD1(pre96)   and   OBD2 (96' and newer)

Car stores (Autozone,etc) in the USA can not do pre 1996 OBD1 SCANS. Sorry, save your gas. (and they will be clueless on how to use the jumper clip) So click the CEL link above. DIY !
Most Auto Repair shops, do not know about the CEL flashing tests and rules. 
They long ago forgot. Some have never even seen a pre 96 Suzuki.
Working on any pre 96 car is very hard, you must measure each sensor 1 by 1 with a DMM meter or scope.  A long hard process. My  web page covers all that.
Non USA cars don't have OBD2, in most cases. See why here, Vitara's would wide ,vary vastly.

1989-1998: IN general.
The are  up to 3 computers (micro controllers or computing controllers,etc) on this car. {brains or puters}
The ECM/ECU/PCM  ( Engine control module  or Engine  fuel injection controller)
The RWAL was first (then  4WAL or even newer ABS).   Rear Wheel Anti Lock controller. And 3 types of ABS from 89-1998  and not all can be scanned easy after 1996.
The TCM. ( 4sp Transmission Control module).  ( not on any 3sp Auto or manual transmission vehicles ).   The TCM has its own DLC and jumper plug and flash codes.
In 1997 the TCM was moved inside the ECU, and only OBD2 scans can see the tranny DTC errors. The TCM became named the PCM.  Power train control module.
ABS:  (anti lock braking system , modern)  (96+)
The early ABS (true) 1996 ,the ABS has its own scan tool.  (not sold in stores) Click Brake lamp above, for details.


Rev 7  ,  4-10-2014 added more cluster failure issues. (oil  and most others, are just links to my already made pages.)