Greetings..and..Transmission

[GeoHacker]

yes, the shifter rails most be in neutral forming a box, to install that lever.
12.5vd using a DMM? if a real dmm and its not frigid out 12.5 is a tad low.
12.6 down to 40F
http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/SOC2.JPG

if it dont crank at 12.5v (clicks solenoid), and charger cant make it higher, it's a gonnner... sorry.

happy for you to get this far, !!!!

Thanks!

Thought was in neutral, but was showing in 4WD light…I shifted it down to 2WD…hope it's correct now. Seems to shift right now.

Yep, the battery tested bad at Autozone.

Got new 2 year battery, and guess what? My beastie cranked only 3 seconds after all this time on the torture rack and there it lit right up, settled into the usual smooth cold start idle at 1800, and came on back down as usual.

Tried clutch and first, was smooth going out. Nice. Gotta make one more adjustment to it to get the free pedal just right (cable seems stretchy, is a Beck Arnley)

Thank you so much for your advice, help, and positive support during this big job!

I haven't got it out on the road yet, because now I'm back to the regularly scheduled repair I needed to do when I parked it…the turn signal switch…has that common bad contact in there, giving the left turn buzz. I think you have a fix somewhere on here maybe?

Happy happy happy! And it got a wash too, looks like a proper automobile once again! If it all sounds nice once up to highway speed, will be a wrap. If it doesn't, will be a wrap. Ha. Tires probably have 9 month flat spots in the back though.

Only 1 small bolt left over, and I think it goes to a splash/heat plate on driver's side in engine compartment…is missing a screw. i think I might have taken it off to get more room removing the manifold. So it will go back there.

As you said, take your time, and things will work out. (just not this much time probably)

[GeoHacker]

If it all sounds nice once up to highway speed, will be a wrap. If it doesn't, will be a wrap. Ha.

OK, took for a spin up to 40mph down the road. Transmission shifts nice enough. Clutch needs adjustment is all. Works smooth.

Noises:

I have a whine still somewhere. It's more noticeable in 3,4,5th, and if you shift-up to bog it a little, and then put a little load on it…it's more noticeable, and the faster you go.

Seems speed based (maybe not RPM based)…but only under load, as in clutch out, some acceleration going on, or (with clutch out) match gas to speed, just right, then plus.

Can the transfer case cause that? Something else?

Hard to hear if the noise is there in first or second also because the engine revs mask it some.

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Sounds like tire whine almost, except stops when you push the clutch in. Again, seems more speed based.

[GeoHacker]

I have a whine still somewhere.

Transfer case in neutral, revving engine, clutch out, only hear little in 5 Speed 1,2,3 (louder 3), 4th not any louder, 5th much louder.

Given 4th is quiet enough, transfer probably ok?

So, I guess...leaves either new smaller 5th gear interior needle bearing as suspect (cage was not as robust looking as my original), or my Loctite experiment of the (big'un) 5th gear…with resulting not liking new meshing pattern (very possible?) or it was just too worn out already from prior wear and bearings then the low oil, and shouldn't have re-used it at all (tried but couldn't locate same model anywhere).

The whine is when you are initially loading beforehand, and then after, like when you back off just a little…but still with gas engaged.

Not sure if is fatal or what. Running Sta-Lube GL-4 85W90 (NAPA)

Checking rear differential levels, going to stick the stethoscope on it all (wish had Steelman Chassis Ear)

Engine now developing rough lower rpm…hope is just some of that older gas passing through.

r

[fixkick]

your welcome, still pulling for you !!!
it might get better.
what it is not, seems like would lower the possibles.
not the cluster bearings. 5th gear , while in other gear is free wheeling, but if the gear is non concentric, well.... it can make noise.
not rear of transfer case.
in 4th gear those free wheeling unused gear, there caged bearings inside are spinning, but they are not making noise because if you say when to 1st and that bearing 1st top gear, stalled, it go quiet.
if in the 5sp, id say, the noise is gear noise, not bearings... and 5th tops your list.
it might be just ignored. that... let it make noise, or try synthetic oil, knowing full well it might make the sychro's, balky.

the stethoscope at transfer, case would rule out front it if that case.
Prime suspects, bearing 2 or 3

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/xfr-case/XFRCASEGUTS.jpg


very happy for you , a running car !!!

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only moving, noise..
hope its only speedo cable noise.. LOL.
it turns no matter what moving.
the chain in the transfer is stalled in 2H or Neutral.
hope its outside your 5sp.. do.

[GeoHacker]

your welcome, still pulling for you !!!
it might get better.
(snipped)
if in the 5sp, id say, the noise is gear noise, not bearings... and 5th tops your list.
it might be just ignored. that... let it make noise, or try synthetic oil, knowing full well it might make the sychro's, balky.

the stethoscope at transfer, case would rule out front it if that case.
Prime suspects, bearing 2 or 3

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/xfr-case/XFRCASEGUTS.jpg

very happy for you , a running car !!!

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only moving, noise..
the chain in the transfer is stalled in 2H or Neutral.
hope its outside your 5sp.. do.

Hi, thanks. Is running nice. But the noise remains. Having friend help localize today. I sure do hope is outside the 5 speed.

It sounds awfully similar to this, but only on acceleration, load, or kind of static-load…not decelerating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXbisxnAW-s

My transfer case had full oil, but color wise was from the death star. Still might be 5th gear, just being too worn. The sound becomes noticeable in 3rd, when lugging or low speed, then 4th at speed, and 5th is the loudest. Given that it stops when the clutch is in (even when in motion), does that rule out front and rear differentials?

Kind of bummed. Figured I should do both cases at the same time but lacked the money. Worst fear is they shipped me not one but two bum bearings and the other one got by me during assembly of the 5 speed. If it's gear noise, I will live with it as it has always had some kind of gear whine at speed just not as loud, but need to rule out a bearing for peace of mind. Then again, if the bearing goes, I'll know where the problem was.

Can you pull a transfer case without pulling out the whole transmission assembly again?

r

[fixkick]

4th is key, 4th is not gear its the locking up , of the main shaft but lots of bearing are running.
all front and rare main
and cluster bearing, but the cluster is unloaded as is the 5 gear, zero load in 4th.
that is why im concerned with 4th...
yes buying bearings today , is very hard, so many junk clone makers, 600 are in china. (have email from a China fellow, that told me this.... )
and outright counterfeiting, its hard enought to fix a transmission we dont need bad new parts... what a shame that.
real bearing makers never ship out bad bearings, infact they are tested and graded and the price is on GRADE, just like intel microprocessors are graded, (speed)
the second you see the new bearing if funky, that is a red flag, CLONED!
they are all trash. those clones,,
think for a moment on how many men died, trying to bomb those german bearing factorys, and why.? it was done.
bearings run the world, no bearings , life ends.... even the bread factory shuts down fast.

got $31
off my noise page.
i replace u-joints on suspicion alone.. then

http://www.walmart.com/ip/19530650?wmlsp...91&veh=sem

i use nice head phone connected to this.
and find what makes noise easy.

[GeoHacker]

4th is key, 4th is not gear its the locking up , of the main shaft but lots of bearing are running.
all front and rare main
and cluster bearing, but the cluster is unloaded as is the 5 gear, zero load in 4th.
that is why im concerned with 4th…
(snips here and there)
http://www.walmart.com/ip/19530650?wmlsp...91&veh=sem

i use nice head phone connected to this.
and find what makes noise easy.

That's a cool device, thanks, I'll look into that.

I did another transfer-in-neutral test, just putting in gear, dropping the clutch out, and revving a little.

Except for what sounded like a dry bearing when going into 3rd the first time, that quieted down (is colder now and my oil is thicker than I'd like, that GL-4)…1,2,3,4 actually all sounded about the same (there is a whirring you can hear) but 5th is always sounding loudest in comparison, that's the whirring plus more.

So what I'm going to do is remove the fill plugs and check levels once again to make sure something weird didn't happen on filling, verify they're where they need to be, then I'm going to get that sound checker. I need something like that because the stethoscope's ear pieces are horribly designed (the one I got at least).

Thanks for the input once again. Hope this has a happy ending somehow.

[fixkick]

2 can drive (1 at wheel) one with the head muffs on , and listen to just about any thing.
it is a very powerful tool.... i found muffs for $5 at walmart, blocks out all ambient noises do you can hear the MIC clear as a bell.

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the wires are very long....a nice feature.

[GeoHacker]

2 can drive (1 at wheel) one with the head muffs on , and listen to just about any thing.
it is a very powerful tool.... i found muffs for $5 at walmart, blocks out all ambient noises do you can hear the MIC clear as a bell.

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the wires are very long....a nice feature.

Going to have to go the microphone route.

I checked all the fluid levels. Initially (after install), the back differential was low, had leaked down while had driveshaft off I think, could have been low all along, but that's full now. Front is full. Transfer and Trans were spot on (transmission plug had some bubbles, from backing up a few feet before checking I guess).

Took another test drive, noise is in all gears (heard it in second, once got revved up high enough). Only under load, or coast-load. Sounds like tire whine, but is in the drivetrain, and heard only when clutch is engaged and under load etc.

So, going to take the mic or two to localize it, for sure.

Wondering…the 2 bolts holding the center trans mount I think are the ones I got mixed up with another shorter pair, because they now hit the "wings" of the mount (kind of 45 degree part above where the bolt comes through from below)…and I don't think they should do that. I don't think it's the cause of the noise but is possible it could be amplifying gear/bearing sound?

I could back them off until not touching, take a spin see what happens I guess. Add some washers. I think the original pair ended up holding the CAT mount.

Only transmission thing noted is when cold, second is hard to catch initially. Once you drive some, goes in fine.

[fixkick]

the mount needs , sonic vibration protection, in rubber. or there will be noise telegraphed to the frame.

2nd gear it an canary gear. it the first synchro to were out. driving in town, lots of up shifts and down shifts to it in town.
seen many 2nds rings with grooves in side worn to sooth and gone. (yours are new, now. so need to break in, with DINO GL4 only) or gl3/4/5 if found.
many report using syn lube make all synchro's baulk.

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the magic microphones can help, you can hear it for sure, (if not u-joints) i usually start with u-joints, some feel ok but needles inside are rust buckets
and find the section that is the most loud. this has great value , in diagnosis....