Greetings..and..Transmission

[GeoHacker]

Anybody with a 1992 Tracker have a picture of the driver side engine (top view, down) they could post, showing manifold area, above, and below? And then one from the passenger side, kind of top view down too?

Not sure if fell from above given how long ago I started this, but have 3 bolts I can't find a home for yet. One is smallish, 10mm or 11, clean. The other 2 are 14's I think, and large, but also clean, no oil on them. So they didn't come from the transmission or front area there (clutch bell area).

Thanks for any help, or suggestions . (and thanks for all prior)

Good news, the beast is back in! Harbor Freight trans-jack to the rescue. Got for $80, great deal. Got things lined up just so, slid on like butter. Quite different from the removal. Thanks for putting up with me all this time.

I'm hoping the bolts go to manifold + exhaust system.

[fixkick]

some folks put GL4 there just a treaspoon,
its only grease there as you said.
sure loose rails can leach GL4 upward, but not your tar oil, LOL. grin?

extra bolts. seem like we always find this. its kinda preplexting.
10 hex head or shaft diameter? must be head. as you ask for 14s tool.
the intake, mount braces. ?

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youre having way too much fun, .....

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those jacks are nice, real nice, to jack up any box.

[GeoHacker]

some folks put GL4 there just a treaspoon,
its only grease there as you said.
sure loose rails can leach GL4 upward, but not your tar oil, LOL. grin?

No more tar oil for the trans at least, is clean in there. Transfer will be new oil but become mud-ling color. At least you don't have to take half the car apart to work on that.

I might throw a little GL4 in shifter case topside, teeny bit. I have it greased up good.

extra bolts. seem like we always find this. its kinda perplexing.
10 hex head or shaft diameter? must be head. as you ask for 14s tool.
the intake, mount braces. ?

I sure don't know their home at this point. Problem is I don't have a picture of my "Before" on the exhaust manifold side, or down below really. The 2 bolts are 14mm head, length is about 26mm total. Threaded area 3/4". Might go up top somewhere at manifold, but not sure. Were on the other side, down below, next to the 2 clutch cable bracket bolts.

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youre having way too much fun, …..

I'm getting a good workout. Almost needed a cane today was so sore.

Added new valve cover gasket, and new exhaust manifold gasket is waiting, soon as I can round up more nuts and washers, 3 have gone missing since Dec. Problem: clutch cable end-spring went missing somewhere somehow during all this time, sproinged away, so might have to guestimate one at Lowes or Home Depot? Where to find that? 09440-08026 I am told is the part number.

Added 4 quarts new oil, reading says 4.5qt total is needed, and I have 1/3 quart in the oil filter (pre installed). However, nothing is showing on the dipstick yet after an hour.

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those jacks are nice, real nice, to jack up any box.

Amazing jack that thing is. Made it so easy. You mentioned it long time back, it's the easier living ticket.

[GeoHacker]

I think the small 10 mm bolt orphan is one that goes above to the shift lever mounting plate.

The two remaining orphan status 14mm bolts.. about 1/2" or 7/16" is used going through something (no washer) leaving about 1/4" to stick out into the air.

[fixkick]

8mm thread, ? it the tread sizes that matters, not head, and length. .75" is 20mm long, bolts,
M8 x20 means 8mm bolt, 20mm long. m means metric ,as all are on car, even lugs are metric. now.



lots of parts , even P/s ,mounts, A/c mounts, engine mounts, trans mounts, , and intake base ?

the intake man. has a mount , does these fit there? under intake man.?

yes, exposed to elements , a great clue that, you are good observer.

you only pulled the trans.(+4wd) right, not engine?



mounts, look at all mounts.

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yes , generic spring on clutch cables, compressive works
its just to stop rattle there.

[GeoHacker]

lots of parts , even P/s ,mounts, A/c mounts, engine mounts, trans mounts, , and intake base ?

you only pulled the trans.(+4wd) right, not engine?

mounts, look at all mounts.

(some snipped above)

Thanks for the input. Yes, only took out transmission, engine remained. There are bolt places for an A/C mount on the engine, but I don't have A/C.

I'm thinking given the mostly clean area and underneath the bolt head, has to be for a mount of some kind. They aren't all that oily, so rules out most areas of trans crossmember (which is a grimy mess). Guess time will tell (first thing falling off)

Glad the spring isn't critical. Ordered a couple OEM springs, but will use a temp one until arrived.

[GeoHacker]

OK, probably got a pair in swapped locations somewhere…those orphans might be the hold-downers for the driver side crossmember (but remember those having washers, I thunk?), but anyhow, the CAT support had no washer marks of note, and so put the orphans there.

No more orphan bolts currently unless sweeping the leaves leaves some found.

Trans back in all the way, rear driveshaft on, manifold with CAT portion back on, rear exhaust left. Folly or fortune to be determined soon.

Wife of Mechanic: "You need to go sleep on the couch."
Mechanic: "Why? It's my bed too."
Wife: "I don't care. You keep torquing in your sleep, and it's waking me up from all the ratchet."

[GeoHacker]

Help!

After all is back in and installed. this is the result.

1) Stick shift for Transfer case won't shift forward or back, feels like it's locked (even with clutch in) Maybe something's not lined up right when I put the shifter in, I don't know. Was in Neutral I thought, before removal. When I installed it, there were 2 rods visible, one had a notch (driver side)…I put the flattish nub there.

2) Charged the battery last night, turned key, verified fuel pump on…turned off, tried to start up now…sounded like it clicked once, then spun down, only way to describe it (pump spinning down maybe) All the dash indicator lights dimmed. Second time tried, dimmed on down to near nothing.

Battery showing 12.5 volts, but is a Walmart EverStart, guess it's bad? Hope it's bad. Maybe sitting around all year and through winter off'ed it, or the battery charger did.

Starter connects: Booted plug goes on the double nut lug, other lug goes within bolt at starter mount top…right?

It's down off the ramps, and everything's back in place at least. But life's still no better yet.

Plus side? Gears 1 - 5 shift "thru" like butter! (clutch in, plain motion test)

[GeoHacker]

1) Stick shift for Transfer case won't shift forward or back, feels like it's locked

Took the shifter apart again, got the right side rail to slide towards rear and into neutral (neutral side-push button popped into view)…replaced the shifter...now it is in neutral I believe..can springy-move to the other side, feels right. Have not tried to shift it in to another position. Now that I think about it, I probably had it in 4wd, to get it up onto the rear wheel ramps.

Battery is old and too dead I reckon. 11/10 sticker on it.

[fixkick]

yes, the shifter rails most be in neutral forming a box, to install that lever.
12.5vd using a DMM? if a real dmm and its not frigid out 12.5 is a tad low.
12.6 down to 40F
http://www.fixkick.com/Charging/SOC2.JPG

if it dont crank at 12.5v (clicks solenoid), and charger cant make it higher, it's a gonnner... sorry.

happy for you to get this far, !!!!