Greetings..and..Transmission

[fixkick]

no, actually my 0-ring page does 8v 100%
Large Seal P/N# -118 , main housing to head. I measured them, RED is factory GM spec)
VT75 -035 (Distributor base in inches , slightly larger od, by .065" ) they don't stock mm 55.5 x 1.9mm o-rings.
VT75- 118 ( Distrib. shaft my best fit by measuring shaft and o-ring. ) [ (7/8 ID X 1-1/16 OD X 3/32 W]


http://www.oringsusa.com/catalog/advance...28&x=0&y=0


seen on o-ring page, just below the factory p/n section.

no foam, it's previous owner trying to hide leaking distributor..

the Viton seals are for ever..... last longer than engine here.

those sizes above are me buying a range of sizes, after measuring with calipers. and finding the best fit.

the 035 is not perfect fit, it is the best fit for inches. the stock metric size 55.5 is very hard to find here. with industrial part.
how ever, using silicon grease on the seals they fit like dream.

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http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#bedda

[GeoHacker]

no, actually my 0-ring page does 8v 100%

no foam, it's previous owner trying to hide leaking distributor..

Well, hopefully the Suzuki OEM ones will work as is? Since it will probably leak again, I'll pick up a set of the others.

Do you have a distributor O-rings replacement how-to page? I see mentions here and there, but haven't found a dedicated one yet. I'm definitely losing oil there, and from the valve cover.

Got new rear main seal installed (easy peasy, thing came pre-oiled). Based on appearances and wear, hard-ish flexibility, probably good I did change it. In like Flint now.

Flywheel going back next, then have to mount the pilot bearing, then clutch and finally, it's transmission replace and decide "what bolts go where?" day. Or two.

The rear mounting sled had 2 lengths…can't recall if the shorter ones went to the middle mount holder, or the hanger sides (frame).

[fixkick]

the viton last 10x the butal rubber rings (stock) the later crack at about 50k miles.
distributor pull..
replacement. is as you know the old one come off( crumble) with a tooth pick, i use that tool to avoid metal damage.
the distrib, long play, is here, 8v rotor turns backwards from 16v ..

crank at TDC, #1 firing .,not #4 , valves on #1 are loose (lash point) or cam cog mark 60a, titty pimple nib?, pointing 6pm (12pm is #4 firing)
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-pro...#fastplant

Sled.
the tranny crossmember, bolts? or the actual mount in center? 4 outer , crossmember bolts.?
i think, if you look at the member end bolts all 4 are same size so the remainder are center?

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[GeoHacker]

Sled.
the tranny crossmember, bolts? or the actual mount in center? 4 outer , crossmember bolts.?
i think, if you look at the member end bolts all 4 are same size so the remainder are center?

Thanks for the distributor info, will need that soon, that's for sure.

Sled : Have it figured out now, I think. It is the outer bolts though, they are not all the same, 2 are longer. Good news is seems I painted them yellow before I took them out, and forgot or prior removed did.

Driver's side of the sled is gravity assisted, overlays a flange area and the bolts hold it down), but the passenger side…there the bolts hold it up to the frame, and do all the holding. The 2 longer ones have a narrower tapered width at the tips, and the other shorter 2 are same width all the way to ends.

I'm thinking the longer ones go into the hold-up side, since a) paint matches and they have to get to that nut. Will consider that mystery solved. Not sure if I did that yellow paint or not, but if I did, I thank me for thinking ahead.

[GeoHacker]

the viton last 10x the butal rubber rings (stock) the later crack at about 50k miles.

I think the ones you mention are indeed better, the Suzuki ones I put in seem thinnish.

The old large base mount one (gear case) was utterly flat and plasticized…useless other than as a nice ring. Probably the source of my leaks.

The dizzy one up top, smaller one, I could have left in as it had a fine seal, still soft. Thicker than the new one I put in, or swollen I guess. Anyhow, all changed out, and after tightening, the paint marks all matched up right they should, so it might even still run.

[zukitrek]

So Fix, using the OEM o-ring for the dizzy is not the best solution? Long term solution that is? I re-used mine almost 2 years ago cause I did not have it available (late sunday afternoon) and had to get car ready for Monday conmute. So I did a trick of putting some RTV in the dizzy side to make up for the flattened o-ring, placed o-ring and then after it had cured bolt back to head, and to this day no probs at all, and drip is gone. But I was thinking on getting the Suzuki O-ring to get it done right.

Cheers!!

[fixkick]

i dont have the full spec on 16v rings.
the vitons last forever, but not oem. they are cheap but like me , id did use OEM on my 16v too lazy this time to measure and buy viton.
id did do 8v ..

many offroad forum members are all RTV lovers. im not. if it get past the pump screen and hits a bearing shell or in the .050 head orifice, the world ends.
the pan is glued on in the factory under very tight controls, and cured in place and then pressure tested.
RTV has killed many an engine, seen and fixed many just for that.

id use Permatex 2b first.

rtv is used at rear cam bearing shell
and on rear , dizzy base housing at rocker rail, all spec. so id say yours is ok there, it can work way to crank case.
one trick is the 24hr cure, to late it can drift off, to bad places...

[zukitrek]

one trick is the 24hr cure, to late it can drift off, to bad places...

You know what, it was a long time ago but I think thats what I ended up doing. The method you posted above.

Cheers!!

[GeoHacker]

the vitons last forever, but not oem. they are cheap but like me , id did use OEM on my 16v too lazy this time to measure and buy viton.
id did do 8v ..

many offroad forum members are all RTV lovers.

Since using that Threebond 1211 you mentioned, I'm a convert. It has no odor of note, goes on smooth as silk. RTV which I had to use to rebond the base of the seal holder, nastiest stuff in the universe, burns your nostrils.

I should have put some Threebond on the flat outside joining surfaces but was doing this at 2 am so not thinking my best. If I get 40K miles before a leak though, will be happy enough. I'll probably have to do an engine rebuild before then.

Question :

My gearshift case (that lop sided beast which is the last thing to go back on today before The Big Assembly), has the usual grease where the shift lever comes into it, into those 2 plastic parts, but also has a puddle of oil inside it where that lower plastic part sits (the cylindrical ring part). Is that oil normal? Should it be there?

Not sure if leached in through the shaft area and other side over time, or if it is part of normal lubricating function. Seems right there you'd only want grease. Possible it got in there when trans got on its side though was already emptied by that time.

This oil is clean by the way, still golden, so don't see how could have come from below, as that stuff is nasty.

Edit: Added pic

[GeoHacker]

Question :

My gearshift case (that lop sided beast which is the last thing to go back on today before The Big Assembly), has the usual grease where the shift lever comes into it, into those 2 plastic parts, but also has a puddle of oil inside it where that lower plastic part sits (the cylindrical ring part). Is that oil normal? Should it be there?

Since I can't find any info on that oil being there, and it's not in your pictures, going to presume the prior owner or jiffy lube shop did that no-no of trying to fill the trans there.

Anybody with a 1992 Tracker have a picture of the driver side engine (top view, down) they could post, showing manifold area, above, and below? And then one from the passenger side, kind of top view down too?

Not sure if fell from above given how long ago I started this, but have 3 bolts I can't find a home for yet. One is smallish, 10mm or 11, clean. The other 2 are 14's I think, and large, but also clean, no oil on them. So they didn't come from the transmission or front area there (clutch bell area).

Thanks for any help, or suggestions . (and thanks for all prior)