Fixing the Shifting Issues

[fixkick]

sounds like clutch,
that tiny engine never needs new mounts, all 3. (oh gawd, never say never, lol)

is this all sound? bad u-joints are easy to find that band hands on, twist OMG what that Ujoint star doing that funny dance (laying under car)
drive play is all normal, in the axle ring gear. and inside the tranny all normal but not splines, and not ujoints, twist them hard by hand.
you must look at the parts carefully on the drive shaft. end to end do see if the joints move at all, they must not. or the spline into the tranny is toast.

if 2nd is hard to shift this is not u joints, sounds like the clutch lever at the bell it no going in 1inch.
for many reasons, set wrong, cable bad, pedal top spline is stripped or bent from prev. seized cable>?

[Vitalie]

Checked the clutch lever travel with a ruler and it is 7/8 of an inch.

the cable is new, couple of months, the pedal looks right just a tinny bit higher than the brake pedal. everything moves as one when pressing the pedal. don't see any damage. everything is tight.

should I just adjust the pedal a bit higher just to get that 1/8 ?
that is very strange

Thanks

[fixkick]

its ok
this can be 2 things, fix noise cause first.
try to find source.

nice vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVC76dSBNnY

see how he man handles the parts, and looks for the parts that must not move. good examples here.

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i try to move all parts under car, and for bolts loose. nuts missing, and damage.
many things can get loose. when old. even the track rods, and the top of axle , BALL joint .(wish bone rear)
lots of things ,
i use a 1" or so dowl rod, to lever things and look,,,, or if real manly, lol a crow bar.
duct tape, crowbars an hammers are real Neanderthal and wonder full. and best of all the lever. (Archimedes. love him)

[Vitalie]

I did one more test to help isolate the the drive engagement kick bang.

I put my emergency brakes and will release real quick the clutch in first or reverse. I did not feel nearly as I would normally feel that kick when start moving, especially the faster engage the more violent the kick.

Dose this tell you anything?

I will jack the rear when I will get a chance and ask a helper to get in gear and I will examine the behavior.
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Also I notice that sometimes the reverse goes in very smooth and sometimes it doesn't want go in at all even if I wait 10s. I have to "pump" the clutch as second time and usually it will grind a tiny bit.

Also doble couching makes the second engaging smother, as well as after driving on the freeway a while makes shifting smother too.

Thanks

[fixkick]

sure you have drive line play, extreme, do the checks on the video. its not hard to do. 2wd mode is one shaft.

shifting is all clutch, for sure stopped.
the clutch is bad, if you have drag for any reasons.
the 1 inch rule (all play gone first) proves its not the linkage and is a bad. clutch (if itdrags, the 1inch stroke, fully disengages all clutches, so can NOT DRAG, if it did, its bad (4 parts inside , no matter, which is 10yrs labor on 4wd)
ever consider a new cable for $25 and 1hr work? never seen a cable last over 100 to 150k, they all get a grove in the armor, where no human can see, it it jams random, all cables do that
what is best is to get rid of it . (the noise im not sure of, id need to use my stethoscope to find TRUE source.

a bad clutch can drag and grind gears, it can chatter, it can also be so non linear it will BANG going into gear. (warped discs does that)

my guess the drag from the emgr brake, stops the play from happening.
this is very true on bad u-joints. but the joint love to make noise, at speed transitions and when floating the throttle, if real bad, they make noise full time.
floating is when at light cruise, you are neither speeding up or slowing down, float. and a loose joint can make all kinds of racket then/

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i might me full of beans, i cant drive it , feel it , hear it. so...

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ah it only 2wd. so is a pussy cat.

[Vitalie]

Here is what I have done.

1 New cable
2. The 1in passed as I had 7/8 with play.
3. New Clutch Kit 4 parts. Disk, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing.
4. Everything adjusted to spec.
5. New oil Redline MT-90
6. Flywheel was smooth and straight.
7. parts 19 and 27 new.

the results are better shifting than before but still notchy here and there. Second is stiffer than the first. First is very smooth.

Stopped all the gears go in smooth. engine running or not.

Talking just about the shifting smoothness.

The only that is left is actual transmission. Maybe the main bearings have worn out together with the synchronizers?

What year and 2door and 4 door transmission is compatible with mine? I will start saving for a low milage one as rebuilding will be more expensive for me because of the lack of tools and time.

Thank You

[fixkick]

notchly,
that means it slow to get synchros to speed match?
2wd, right 4x2 .
only 2wd trans fits 2wd trans., it has a super long tail shaft,and unique sealing methods.

the new kit is alike $125, new bearings and synchro's

so it shifts ok ,slow?
if yes, then wrong tranny oil, or bad syncrhos. (or the main bearings are so bad the whole countershaft is bouncing.
does, the transmission whine , clutch pedal out, in neutral or dead quiet?. if quite, bad synchro's or oil.
'id not use syn oil in in any old mt, some are too slippery, the stock box was designed for Dino GL4,

think of those cones, in your mind, and that oil film there, how that matters at engagement time.

notchy, up and down. or just down shifted.
by doing tad slower does that help.
3 to 2 is big jump , one reason 2nd wears faster for aggressive down shifters.

when the grooves are gone , you need new ones.

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im sliding on new ones here.

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/index.html
tricky part?
the 2 hidden locking balls.
and the need to measure here first. thing, due to no custom tool for press.
measure here, with feelers.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/rea...281%29.jpg

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id try, some real GL4 synchromesh gear oil
before 15 hours labor.

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use a down rod to hold each part 1 by on to not bet anything reverse, even washers.
take each part off 1 by one and not get hidden ball damage.
that be it.
this box is a pussy cat.

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we have the free pdf factory tranny manual.

[Vitalie]

Got the Pennzoil synchromesh this weekend.

It is better than with synthetics. I felt improvment for 2nd and 3rd. Now I can down shift in 3rd at about 20mph without grinding which is a relief taking the corners.

I also got the 10mm square drain socket from pep boys. it is $5.80.

I think this is good enough for right now.

Can some one please list all the minimum tools needed for rebuilding the tranny assuming that I have nothing . I want to collect the tools first so when I am ready just to do it.

Thanks

[fixkick]

im glad you found a lube that loves your older synchros.... it can be hard to do,,,, with so few, choices on local selves....

tranny, rebuild. tools.
buy the kit. (bearings and sync)
i only needed cheap, gear pullers. like seen on harbor fright, the full kit is best. with all sizes. in a box.
i also used cheap lengths if chain to so the longer pulls.
snap ring tool, both types, compress or expand or the tool that does both. (this is the only hard part having these, due to so many kinds and some are too weak)
you do not need, the not sold suzuki tool for assembly, what i did is measure the gap first. then on assembly used feeler gage to press bearing back on , with gap, same.
a press is needed. (or if advernture-some. pipes .lot, and hammer them on) id use PCV pipes, or EMT pipe before steel.

a broom stick, or dowl rod.
remove the main shaft. assy, it just lifts out, the cluster must be , taking out , in a tricky way, IIRC.
and remove each part one by one, on the main rear end.
dont take the synrco hubs apart. see here. 37,38,39 just slide them off, and do not reverse them. clean as whole.
i have a rear axle gear puller its just the big double dish plate, that when bolted on, move the bearing off any shaft , then allows using regular puller , or with chains added.

i will make a slide show, today of all my photos doing this.


i found all I need here, besides the 2 ball rule and my find gap rule.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5thGear.JPG

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ok slide show ,

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/html/index.html

[Vitalie]

Will this press clear or is too small?
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-...-1666.html


I also got this set of special tools for tracker.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-J-377...true&rt=nc

not sure why but I thought it will be nice in case I needed.

Thanks