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Fixing the Shifting Issues
reverse grinds
is dragging clutch, any part, can do that, the pressure plate, warped, or not retracted fully due to bad pp springs. or cracked disc, or pilot bearing seizure. and even a very bad flywheel surface.
usually a bad flywheel will only cause jerky starts.

ive never heard of AMS.
how ever Rockauto listing them adds some credence. i could not learn anything about them....which scares me... sorry.
usually i never buy the rock top listed listed part, that is cheapest. i just avoid them. as a matter of practice.
#2 on there list is ok.
ok ordered
EXEDY 04137
hopefully it gets by the weekend so I can get my hands dirty, again.

I really believe this should fix all my shifting nightmares so I can enjoy my car in full.

Thanks everybody and I will post how it goes.
Chevrolet Tracker 1998, 5sp 4Dr 4x2
Suzuki Esteem 2002, Auto.

My tranny does not grind or have any issues with reverse. I am having a slight issue going from first to second. When I changed the oil to purple oil, I have more "gear feel". I can actually feel the transmission gears now when shifting. I get a slight grind into second when it's cold. I pulled clutch adjustment in some more and it's nearly gone.

What's causes a first to second issue? Would the new plastic guides on the shift lever help this issue? I should get them in a few days.

95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
that is 2nd gear synchro, not liking that more slippery purple oil and the synchro cup ring will be worn this old, best lube is STANDARD for best old sychro action.
the cup has ridges, to the cone, if its worn a tad, and too slippery, the syncro will be sluggish ,forcing to to shift slower. if you go fast, it grinds,.

the guides only allow the gear to be fully engaged, the rails have detents you can feel them if you can not get fully into a detent, the part 27 is shot, plastic tip.

the shifter, plastic bad, might cause grinding if the gear is 1/2 engages. in fact if that happens it will jump of gear.
id not put super slippery GL4 gear lube in any old gear box. its perfect for bearings but not the synchro's, those need a sticky oil. ( my new jeep has it in the 6speed but is new)

im my experience the first synchro ring to fail is aways 2nd. it gets more action, 1 to 2nd and 3rd to 2nd, driving in town as most are.
it gets a real workout.

Not sure by what you mean...." best lube is STANDARD". Is this a brand? The folks on the suzuki forum were preaching to not use any oil that didn't say, "safe for yellow metals." The only oil locally that met this criteria was the purple oil.

Should I pull it out and put something else in the tranny? The folks on the other forum were concerned about the oil eating the brass parts.


ps. That was $40 of oil!
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
a non syn GL4 .
or any standard, lube rated for GL4/5.
, not all GL5 axles oil eats the yellow metal, many do, the EP GL5s are nasty lubes. the eat it only if parked a very long time (moisture gets in there and does funny things)
I used Pennzoil synrcho lube.
and keep in mind most stores do not cater to or bother selling M/T lubes, only for A/T and hipoid axles with GL5.
most will say, gee this el work. they don't care ,know, and many have never seen a munual tranny, or can drive one.
they know you wont return it, so are caviler.
I look for GL4 ever time i go to anystore that sells lube. when i see it it gets grabbed fast.
one other odd thing , is many GL5 sellers. they forget to show on the bottle, ok for GL4 apps. and does. very odd. like M/T are now gone from earth. (no need to waste label space....)
we are insignificant.
may folks complain of GL5 causing grinding.

some folks run straight 30wt oil; as test. on the shelf here for 5 years or more.

or crc
dirt cheap. and is just standard GL4. might be good.


and by gallon same band

im not saying he purple oil is bad. only that if syn oil can be too slipper for synchros, old cars are very trouch here, many folks and tried 3 or more type to be happy.
but trying standard Dino GL4 is a first choice, to me. they need to grab at all temperatures.

one more hint, in every store im a bottle tipper, all look here on the back it says, GL3/4/5 and is nice and cheap...


not mobil1 horses mouth (odd how they say it , just out right , proving GL4 is and issue they avoid)
pypoid axles are not gear boxes and have very special needs. those needs can interfere with the needs of synchro's (locking up ,not corroding etc.)

This valvoline had gl4 on the label. Would this work too?

95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
no that is GL5 , or MT1, MT1 has no synchros. so is very telling when they put that there (1959 relics. and leave out 100 years of Gl4 gear boxes.

keep in mind, most store think there are no M/Ts 10% of cars have it and is like 1% those folks do DIY, so why stock it. my guess.

many folks run Gl5, and are happy, but you have 1 gear grinding....
ps. Maybe I can move the purple stuff to the diff?


Here is the back of the label of that Valvoline. It says gl-4 and 5. But, if you think the other stuff you shared is better, I'll hunt it down. Summit racing is only about 30 mins from where I am currently staying.


Also, are the oil fill plugs supposed to bottom out into the cases? My transfer case fill plug went a couple threads down into the case.
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
ok, i didnt read the back, LOL.
ok its good. sure is.

keep in mind, we are tuning the inside of a very old worn 2nd gear synchro, cup/cone. this is like .001 space. and can at really funny with many lubes.
one on tranny, mine grinded, all time, 2nd.
and when removed the synchro ring was split , all the way through.. im sure its not your case. but just a story of one gear.

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