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DLC Code 41
Thanks kick!

So I tested the ignition coil with my multimeter and it passed the test, so I dont think Im going to replace the coil. 

You mentioned the brown wire from supressor goes directly back to the ECU (A1?) or does it first go into the tachometer / cruise box? 
My car is a 5 speed, does this mean I have a cruise box? There is a port on top of transmission with 2 wires coming out which is disconnected, but I think this is for the reverse lamp switch. 
SO - the brown wire goes from noise supressor, to behind dash to the tach, then out from tach into a connecter which then goes into ECU. Correct? Does the brown wire from tach turn into another color before going into the ECU?

Should I inspect this entire brown wire? I would have to pull the instrument cluster to look at the tach, correct? and then pull the ECU?
So I tried diagnosing whether the code 41 issue is due to the brown wiring. 
I removed the intstrument cluster / panel as well as the ECU and routed the brown wire. 

Please take a look at photos:

The brown wire behind the instrument cluster, that comes from the noise supressor, was spliced into two brown wires (there was electrical tape around it). One of the brown wires seems to feed back into the instrument cluster connecter.
The other brown wire I believe feeds into some other connecter, which I think eventually routes into the ECU.
So Im thinking the wiring might be okay. 

I did notice something odd when pulling cluster - please see image - there is a black / white wire that seems soldered onto the back, under some black tape. is this correct?

Another thing I did notice - I did pull the alarm system and the wiring is kind of janky. One of the red wires that goes into the ECU (your diagram says fuel injector power) is for some reason has an additonal wired spliced, going into a larger gauge wire (white / green) under dash. Any reason why someone would do this nonsense? 

Here are photos: 

ALSO - the interior dome light is missing. this wont affect anything important, will it? I think I noticed a connecter with a white and brown wire (drivers side) leading up to another connecter than should go into the dome light. doesnt matter if its not connected?
(10-15-2021, 03:14 AM)fixkick Wrote: all of this are a hit

 For these coils from rock auto - 

the alternate part numbers say BOTH 56B10 and 56BL0. They are stating it works for both 92 and 94. how do i find the correct one?
(10-22-2021, 04:31 AM)sina27 Wrote:
(10-15-2021, 03:14 AM)fixkick Wrote: all of this are a hit

 For these coils from rock auto - 

the alternate part numbers say BOTH 56B10 and 56BL0. They are stating it works for both 92 and 94. how do i find the correct one?
the BL is newer version only,  why ? knowbody knows.

you said 10/13 you bought  coil from napa./

and same post I stated this.

he coil is the same 91 to 95 , 8v. a coil can arc over inside this old,  unseen, and is old . the factor  p/n is:  below
in 1992/93 to 94 the coil changed Pn, just looked it up in EPC

and 8v coil same as 16v coil but same rules on 92 , 94 change.
33410 is prefix code on all
suffix is 56B10 (92/93)  and 56BL0  (L) is 94/95
1991 same as 92, coil. 8v only car , no 16v sold then USA.
and never older. years, for this coiil
you need the 56B10 coil. for sure.

the coil BL may work  on all 91 to 95,  is my guess, but not sure, me, above is EPC book facts. electronics parts catalog suzuki.

testing any coil is not easy.
the 2 resistance tests,  primary and secondary are tested with a DMM at 0.5vdc, small voltge
the coil runs over 10,000 volts and at 10kv, the coil can arc over inside there is no DMM made that can find bad internal insulation at 0.5vdc. un less a dead short and no spark from coil never again.
The cod 41 might fail (theory) if the cam belt is loose, ever replace it?
the cam belt loose makes the CMP in the Distibutor JOG wildly.
the ECU man not see that jog, it only counts CMP pulses and not jogs (ILLEGAL)
so that means spark acts funny,  with a jog the coil dwell can be way off (too small) and spark HV is weak. as a result.

if you uses timing light and inject the timing freeze jumper the spark flashes on the crank pully at 5DTBD must be steady.  if not the cam belt is loose
or the freeze jumper is ignore for these reasons,  idle switch bad.


the problem with the freeze jumper is many ways it can fail.
not hot engine, 180F+
idle fails to hold 800rpm and regulate or due to idle switch in TBS bad or set wrong.
ECU is high idle up mode, 3 ways, to get that, AC on, PS overload, transmisson A/T in gear. DRIVE REV. etc.
RPM out  of control
and limphome mode.

this test is not easy to do and to find bad CAM belt , unseen, using this tactic above.

how old is that belt, cam, ever seen it?,  or see it flop around like mad?

Suzuki did not tell what the BL changes are. at all
but wait suzuki real web site tells BL same 92-95 so that means it is and upgrade.
for sure.

not wrong, but correct.


so when buy parts look there first, to see if there is and upgraded part #. (if not missing there as many parts are)
omg some parts there are BACK from the dead for 5 years running, amazing fact there , even front 4wd hubs.(bearing) are back. wow !

the ignitor is gone but the part is listed with Part numbers. 3337054A50


cheers and good luck with code 41,  coil + igniter,+ cam belt loose theory/ and wires and connectors bad, on parts related.

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