10-21-2021, 03:23 AM
Hello
Got a 1992 tracker, 8 valve TBI, 4WD, 5 speed, 2 door.
The thing idles weird and throws code 41, seems to run VERY rich. Plugs are wet.
After doing a lot of diagnosis and looking at wiring, I think I found the problem (there is a page related to this![Smile Smile](https://fixkick.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
https://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/the-pu...atter.html
I noticed that the red fuel injector power input wire ( under dash, green ECM connecter, pin A8) is in hotwired to a thick white / green wire under the dash.
If I remove this wiring splice (disconnecting red wire from the white / green, which I think is input to battery positive), the car starts but then stumbles and dies.
If I re-splice the red wire back to the white / green wire, it starts and idles (very rich).
SO what is the best method to fix this?
One thing I did notice: You mentioned on one page that the GROUND 103 location is crucial. I took a look at the negative battery cable, and it was attached to a bolt in front of the alternator, NOT THE TOP BOLT OF THE STARTER. I went ahead and put this ground in the correct location.
Could it be that this messed up my ECU, and this is why the fuel injector red wire is spliced to keep it open?
Also some side notes:
Im not the best with wiring / electrical diagnosis. What would be the path of least resistance for me to solve this problem?
Should i put in a new ECU? A New injector?
Got a 1992 tracker, 8 valve TBI, 4WD, 5 speed, 2 door.
The thing idles weird and throws code 41, seems to run VERY rich. Plugs are wet.
After doing a lot of diagnosis and looking at wiring, I think I found the problem (there is a page related to this
![Smile Smile](https://fixkick.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
https://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/the-pu...atter.html
I noticed that the red fuel injector power input wire ( under dash, green ECM connecter, pin A8) is in hotwired to a thick white / green wire under the dash.
If I remove this wiring splice (disconnecting red wire from the white / green, which I think is input to battery positive), the car starts but then stumbles and dies.
If I re-splice the red wire back to the white / green wire, it starts and idles (very rich).
SO what is the best method to fix this?
- Could it be the yellow wire (A17) or red wire (A8) is damaged somwhere?
- Could it be a faulty fuel injector? Should I just replace it?
- Could it be an faulty ECU?
- Could it be my ECU isnt grounded correctly? Is the ground the main black / green wire that goes into A2 cavity?
One thing I did notice: You mentioned on one page that the GROUND 103 location is crucial. I took a look at the negative battery cable, and it was attached to a bolt in front of the alternator, NOT THE TOP BOLT OF THE STARTER. I went ahead and put this ground in the correct location.
Could it be that this messed up my ECU, and this is why the fuel injector red wire is spliced to keep it open?
Also some side notes:
- I tested the ignition coil with a multimeter and it passed all resistance values.
- I calibrated the TPS sensor using a multimeter.
- I traced the brown wire going from noise suppressor to ECU / tach and it looks fine (thought this is what was giving me code 41 but I guess not).
- Have not tested FPR, but the vaccume hose is NOT dribbling gas.
Im not the best with wiring / electrical diagnosis. What would be the path of least resistance for me to solve this problem?
Should i put in a new ECU? A New injector?