coolant flowing between iac and isc ?

[john110]

I`ve leaned so much reading fixkick(last few days), I probably missed this one somewhere, the coolant going underside of/from isc ?!

There`s one coolant between iac and isc. I`ve got one 94 TBI on my desk and wondering where is going the hose who start from Under the isc(about 20 inches) ? The reason I was wondering is that hose seems to be tight with other vacuum hoses which deosn`t make sence !

John

[fixkick]

thanks some pages are so buried I have to dig to..
yes the small hoses are hard to track, out.
is this a path question, or length?

the water manifold behind the water pump has 2 small hoses. (and large)
the front small hose goes to the bottom of thermostat housing.
the rear water manifold small hose goes to ISC water hose front.
the other ISC hose goes to the IAC, in base of TB>

see page 14 and 48 ,33 and page7 Page 7 shows the IAC water pipe.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/8v-Show-bo...ge_12.html

ill update this pdf with ,new arrows showing connections better ! good idea. thanks

[john110]

thanks some pages are so buried I have to dig to..
yes the small hoses are hard to track, out.
is this a path question, or length?

the water manifold behind the water pump has 2 small hoses. (and large)
the front small hose goes to the bottom of thermostat housing.
the rear water manifold small hose goes to ISC water hose front.
the other ISC hose goes to the IAC, in base of TB>

see page 14 and 48 ,33 and page7 Page 7 shows the IAC water pipe.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/8v-Show-bo...owboat.pdf

ill update this pdf with ,new arrows showing connections better ! good idea. thanks

One thing is sure, you really know your stuff !!

It was indeed about the path of the coolant. I miss it , it was clear on your 91-94 sidekick coolant shama.

I`ve got a Tracker 94 1.6l 8v, autom 2d 4wd. I made my first swap engine last year but I still have a lot of things to learn about this fun little truck. I just bought a 95 Sidekick manual 2d 1.6l 8v 4wd cause my Tracker frame was to rust for any patch. So I`m going to start with the Suzuki frame and rebuild it.

Your infos are amazingly useful.... a great source of infos, thanks,

John

[fixkick]

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/8v-Show-bo...ge_12.html

revised all drawings that leave this vague,,,

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glad to help
happy new year!

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the pdf is now obsolete.

[john110]

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/8v-Show-bo...ge_12.html

revised all drawings that leave this vague,,,

---

glad to help
happy new year!

---

the pdf is now obsolete.

Funny, I see the starter on the same pic. it`s what I got to replace on the sidekick before testing the engine. My 94 Tracker was autom so it probably doesn`t fit on my 95 Sidekick manual ?!

[fixkick]

the starter words, there is just to have reference point.
starters come in 2 flavors, a/t and m/t the A/T version is tad more HP. many aftermarket sellers only sell only the hotter one, and nobody is the wiser.

auto or stickshift? car? (A/T or M/T?)?
if the key is dead? (cranking)
make sure the A/T shift, lever is in park, if it fails, we try Neutral next, (N has unused contacts can start many A/T cars, just doing that one trick.)
if the clutch switch is bad, it will no crank. Manual trans car has this only. and can be bypassed easy.

to test only the starter is on my no crank page.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

just with keys in pocket.
In park or neutral , hand brake set. wheels chocked, (Safety first)
jumper the small lug to the outer big lug. bam, see sparks, no fear, its 8 amps worth of sparks....

the engine will crank fast, but not start. proving in 1min flat , starter is ok (battery good, cables good, not green ends)
if starter spins, fast, (whine) and crankshaft pulley, the solenoid is jammed.

[john110]

the starter words, there is just to have reference point.
starters come in 2 flavors, a/t and m/t the A/T version is tad more HP. many aftermarket sellers only sell only the hotter one, and nobody is the wiser.

auto or stickshift? car? (A/T or M/T?)?
if the key is dead? (cranking)
make sure the A/T shift, lever is in park, if it fails, we try Neutral next, (N has unused contacts can start many A/T cars, just doing that one trick.)
if the clutch switch is bad, it will no crank. Manual trans car has this only. and can be bypassed easy.

to test only the starter is on my no crank page.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

just with keys in pocket.
In park or neutral , hand brake set. wheels chocked, (Safety first)
jumper the small lug to the outer big lug. bam, see sparks, no fear, its 8 amps worth of sparks....

the engine will crank fast, but not start. proving in 1min flat , starter is ok (battery good, cables good, not green ends)
if starter spins, fast, (whine) and crankshaft pulley, the solenoid is jammed.

The starter on the 94 Tracker auto/tranny is good. can I swap it on the 95 manual tranny Sidekick, I`m not sure it`s exactly the same size ? When trying to start the Sidekick I year only one click. There`s green on the solenoid lugs, so it tells me it`s in bad shape. the little truck isn`t in my garage by now but in the snow(after a snowstorm). I`ll try to reach the "KEY LINE" buy the upside of the of the truck and jump it for a test.

As one is using a flexplate and the other a flywheel I would be surprised (but happy) is I could use my Tracker starter into my Sidekick.

I`ll try the jump test tomorrow morning, thanks for all infos.

[fixkick]

sure you can, (the a/t starter is tiny bit more powerful) but i bet its not original, this old. they both are probably aftermarket starters. by now, and full power there.
'a non issues. for most folks,,,,
yes, working on cars in snow bank is no fun, not ever.
the ring gears are same... same size.
same mount, same reach, same teeth.
the A/T box uses power from the engine, cranking unlike a working M/t clutch,
the A/T box has a power sucking oil pump there. and with cold ATF fluid can make startine more difficult.

here is the listing at rock, (see?)
note they never ask transmission type. (the large starter is 1.7Kw. , some m/t (relics) are 1.5kw. and mostly not found today. why stock a weaker starter?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...ttype=4152


on the sidekick side of ROCK... it states , by only one vendor.. (nice too)
WPS / POWER SELECT 17194N
Fits Standard trans.; 1.7kW Rating; Mitsubishi (this means they sell the powerful version)
Or Standard trans.; 1.4kW Rating; Mitsubishi
Or Automatic trans.; Mitsubishi Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction, 8T

i want you to know, all 3 of my sidekicks (trackers really all 3 had the gear reduction top , power, starters. and are A/T starters (more power.)

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the only way to test a starter. is ,(best way, in a snow bank, (matters) how cold does it get there,? ive no idea but cold matters. and comes in wild degree's(no pun)
open hood, measure rested battery voltage. 12.65v is charged (20C). at 0C temp,. changed is 12.58 volt DC , on the terminals, rested.
if less, now is the time to charge the battery...
at zero C (0C) 12.2v is a 1/2 charged battery, and will not cut the mustard in cold weather. too slow cranks, or clicks or chatters here.

1: clean battery terminals first. and charge the cars battery now, who knows, it might be good.? and only discharged. (all snow people have chargers)
2: do the "AAA auto TOW", jumper cable start, using correct method off a running, donor car. connect ground last. to the running cars engine metal, (it will spark there) (safety first)
3: crank dead car after 3-5min running donor, using park, if park fails?, step on brake pedal, key on, and move shift'er to neutral. cranks now?
4: no crank NOW.? so what to do. sure it might just click,
5: leaving the ugly test for last. down UNDER. jumping the starter posts. best done in a Garage, on ramps of big person, or no ramps if skinny. (my car had 4wd factory bash plates on front below engine, that needed to be removed.... so..... depends on what you have...

my page covers how to do that. all that. Keys in pocket, for sure....

The a/t trans, blocks starting, in any gear but P or N. (safety laws...)
and can fail.... easy. but most times the N usually works, when P fails, (good chance due to not ever being used to pass current there.)

the PRNDL switch is what it is. P and N allows cranking, and the R glows the backup lamps.
if the a/t car is 4 speed, is it?
the PRNDL does lots more.... than this.

i see starters as weak as 1.0Kw sold for this car.... in all -in town. and none mention why nor, ask transmission types.
but in all cases, if you live in the cold, climates, not just 0C but less ? , some folks up north , get -40C temp,'s. (I get email all the time from them)
in that case, i'd go for a 1.7Kw starter, with gear reduction drive, as seen on all new A/t trackers.
or remove the m/t starter, and gander inside for the planetary gear set.
A car this old will not have numbers on the side of a starter,,, so.... only looking deep answers what you have...

happy new year, hope your troubles are just a green battery cable. end.
or Neutral starts ,work.
or just a discharged battery.

[john110]

"sure you can", Really happy to hear that ! you`re right, it`s not an original starter, I bought it last year for my autom Tracker.

OK, it explains why starter on autom need to be a little more powerful.

I`ll do a jump test today with the old starter. However, as I can use the one on the Tracker, I`ll definitively swap it on the Sidekick. I`ll make place in the garage and try to get it in for the weekend.

Again, thanks a lot for all infos, really appreciated.

John

[fixkick]

id never change any starter
unless it fails the hot wire test.
1min tests. saves, what 3 hours labor? (in your case more, removing a donor starter)
i always assume something simple wrong, can be....!
even a weak battery. or the green death on battery cables.
or as on one car, (many) the Previous owner had a brain fart and put the battery neg lug, (end)
not under the top bolt of starter mount bolt. (used the frame or? some other wild wrong guess)
or he forgot to tighten it and is loose, and now cant pass 100 to 500 amps current. (a super simple error...)
if you have a volt meter all this is so easy..... vastly more easy than guessing. a $10 tool, all shops have.
if the volts are not 12.6v, stop. end bad day in snow.
the battery is dead, discharged.
next step, charge it, or jumper start car.. if engine starts the charging system then charges that dead battery, if the charge lamp is off.