X90 "clutch position switch" Questions

[maint]

Got time for another clutch question?
After a extensive test of my patience and back I have everything back together. Stop and switch(s) adjusted, cable back on the hook. Final adjustment would be at the bell housing. The threaded part of the cable [kind with the rubber, not two lock nuts] is too short as it is. I run out of slack at the clutch lever about 1/2 way through the radius-ed end nut . I found the little mark on the clutch shaft end and it is lined up with the one on the arm. Square hole in the clutch pedal arm is in same location, the weld on the clutch shaft was starting to crack but had not gone through.
Any suggestions?

       

[fixkick]

Got time for another clutch question?
After a extensive test of my patience and back I have everything back together. Stop and switch(s) adjusted, cable back on the hook.
Final adjustment would be at the bell housing.
The threaded part of the cable [kind with the rubber, not two lock nuts] is too short as it is. (wrong cable)
I run out of slack at the clutch lever about 1/2 way through the radius-ed end nut .  RUBBER cable mount fully seated?, and no collision damage on the frame mount?
what I do, is  mount the new cable at both ends routed correctly
then install the top shackle,  up top and at the use a bungee cord to hold tension the bottom doing the above, small easy to pull bungee,
now at the bottom while holded the cable in hand release  the bungee so  as that top does not fall off, and attached the bottom end, now.



I found the little mark on the clutch shaft end and it is lined up with the one on the arm. (all 2 splines have marks)
Square hole in the clutch pedal arm is in same location, the weld on the clutch shaft was starting to crack but had not gone through.
Any suggestions?
for 2 short? the cable?  (routed wrong or wrong cable.)

buy the correct cable,   there are many sizes.
and the routing matters. too.
and x90 would have there own cable,  
I have the part number from suzuki on x90
the sidekick cables are here.

https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch...tch-Cables

96 was first year of rubber mount bottom end.  (july 1995 factory build dates are tricky, due huge parts changes then, on x90 maybe  not)  july1, is when 96's are first made.
23710-57BA0[old]   (-57B12 new # x90)<<< 2 sidekick version 96-98  , the longest cable they ever had for g16 sidekick
same prefix # on all cable.

23710-57B12 (x90) for sure suz. p/n# actual,



https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4...2&_sacat=0

all 2 splines ,  are  are all index marked and installed correctly, if not the  clutch will act very poorly and odd.

There are 4 cables, or more,   by years , and by x90.
early year, mid years ends 95 and 96 upn SIDEKICKS/Vitara's/Trackers , and x90.
see link 1 above for all 4 part numbers made by Suzuki.

[maint]

Early this morning I took the cable off and reinstalled it. I did use a bungee to ensure the shackle didn't flop off. The shackle is seated on the arm correctly and seated on rubber by bell housing. Can tell by the threaded end it was never cut. 
I blew the pic up and found the little mark on the arm and it is beside the one on the clutch shaft. The clutch seemed good and no hint of a problem until the switch pedal arm cracked enough to not hit the pedal position switch. Pedal weld to the shaft was starting to crack but had not let go yet and the cable arm square is in the same spot it was (saved most of the square hole and only had to file the welds). The stop bracket being jerry-rigged would have no effect on this
I think that only leaves the cable but it worked before and I did check the adjustment when I got the car not too many miles back. . Suzuki has a parts warehouse in Canada but the cable is back ordered and they are trying to find an ETA for me.

Suzuki's revised number is good for all Trackers/ Sidekicks and X90 (according to most, but not all, sites I checked) When I ordered the cable the parts guy at the local Suzuki warranty dealer said he sells 3 or 4 a month so they will continue to stock them. I 'm guessing they must be the same as he also says he never sees an X90 anymore. This one is 8.5 inches from rubber flange (as per your drawing on free play) before installed but only 7.5" when installed on arm.

[fixkick]

Early this morning I took the cable off and reinstalled it. I did use a bungee to ensure the shackle didn't flop off. The shackle is seated on the arm correctly and seated on rubber by bell housing. Can tell by the threaded end it was never cut. 
I blew the pic up and found the little mark on the arm and it is beside the one on the clutch shaft. The clutch seemed good and no hint of a problem until the switch pedal arm cracked enough to not hit the pedal position switch. Pedal weld to the shaft was starting to crack but had not let go yet and the cable arm square is in the same spot it was (saved most of the square hole and only had to file the welds). The stop bracket being jerry-rigged would have no effect on this
I think that only leaves the cable but it worked before and I did check the adjustment when I got the car not too many miles back. . Suzuki has a parts warehouse in Canada but the cable is back ordered and they are trying to find an ETA for me.

Suzuki's revised number is good for all Trackers/ Sidekicks and X90 (according to most, but not all, sites I checked) When I ordered the cable the parts guy at the local Suzuki warranty dealer said he sells 3 or 4 a month so they will continue to stock them. I 'm guessing they must be the same as he also says he never sees an X90 anymore. This one is 8.5 inches from rubber flange (as per your drawing on free play) before installed but only 7.5" when installed on arm.

if forgot to say, the cable is most easiest with 2 persons one to hold tension on center of cable, so the top end does not fall off pivot lever up top
the top lever too has a  splien and 1 more index mark that must be correctly align fitted.
so the old cable worked, so then  it is not a cable issue unless the insides of cable is bad , as inside they wear a deep grove no human can see and cause the cable to jam inside.(at random)
100,00 miles of city clutching can really mess it up deep inside,.
the groove inside forms a  gully and can cause it to jam even as being installed, it can fool you thinking it is too short. (JAMMED)

that B12 suffix is strictly,  x90 , but may also be and upgrade to sidekicks .

the cable and all adjustments here can be a real pain to get right, seen it, done wrong and me many times too wrong, until the secret marks are found, index markes, splines all.(both)
I'm glade you have  real SUKUKI parts source there as some clones of cable are plastic inside (pure toy grade) and pure junk, that, from china.  (non name brands )<< im sure not you but had to put up the warning,

good luck to you and thanks for sharing....

[fixkick]

oops/.
are you missing a key part seen as ID #18
here
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...Page_4.jpg

the main bell lever, here has a large steel, PIN 1inch long and 1/2 diameter slug that is cut with a hole, for the center cable
is that missing"?'

part iD 18

20 = washer
17 spring.
18 must not be missing ever. and turn not 19 on end. the measurements  are off my 91' 2door non rubber mount,so may be wrong.
all that changes is , rubber 96up and cable length.

[maint]

oops/.
are you missing a key part seen as ID #18

The pivot is there. Just looked at pedal arm again and, with clutch pedal .2" above brake pedal, there is 1- 1.5 " of cable between the arm and the metal sheath the cable comes out of. I can push the clutch pedal to floor, releasing clutch, with hands from under dash position so is not too hard. Triple checked everything I can think of and all looks good until I try to adjust nut #19 further on. Cable worked for me before BUT obviously someone had issues before I bought it. It is possible the pedal was set higher originally as I don't remember checking it when I first checked for slack. Had just bought it and didn't have a manual or procedure, just ensured there was some slack in cable. I am going to need it in a week for a few days so I'm thinking of moving it on the spline at the clutch release lever one tooth and correct it when a new cable comes. I guess it is possible that cable is now catching inside, under tension, but it sure doesn't feel like it.
Is there a burning reason to NOT adjust at clutch arm?

[fixkick]

oops/.
are you missing a key part seen as ID #18

The pivot is there. Just looked at pedal arm again and, with clutch pedal .2" above brake pedal, there is 1- 1.5 " of cable between the arm and the metal sheath the cable comes out of. I can push the clutch pedal to floor, releasing clutch, with hands from under dash position so is not too hard. Triple checked everything I can think of and all looks good until I try to adjust nut #19 further on. Cable worked for me before BUT obviously someone had issues before I bought it. It is possible the pedal was set higher originally as I don't remember checking it when I first checked for slack. Had just bought it and didn't have a manual or procedure, just ensured there was some slack in cable.  I am going to need it in a week for a few days so I'm thinking of moving it on the spline at the clutch release lever one tooth and correct it when a new cable comes. I guess it is possible that cable is now catching inside, under tension, but it sure doesn't feel like it.
Is there a burning reason to NOT adjust at clutch arm?

ive done exactly that with wrong parts on car, moved splines, the action of the pedal felt queer but worked.
until good parts arrived./
so long as you can get some free play there, it will not hurt any thing.

one other failure is the wrong  and too thick throw out bearing or was overheated and swelled up (got pregnant),  that bad act kills slack easy.

[maint]

It's not getting easier.
Tried moving the release lever on the splines and got lots of thread showing through, possibly too much. Clutch did not disengage so I moved it back to the original marks. Very little slack at lever, guesstimate at 1mm and brake pedal free travel down to about 1/2". Started the car with 4 wheels in the air and the clutch is dragging? 
Brake off, clutch in,= wheels spin.
Brake on, clutch in= wheels stop and motor doesn't notice but going into reverse a bit reluctant. So clutch has a little drag.
Tried to get a bit more clutch pedal travel and can only gain a very little before the pedal stop bracket contacts the metal bracing. As the bracket was smashed down before this wasn't an issue. Was that why it was smashed?
Not going to do anything until the new cable comes but i am getting the 1" or so travel at the lever end (#18) with this one so it is pointing to a bigger issue.

[fixkick]

It's not getting easier.
Tried moving the release lever on the splines and got lots of thread showing through, possibly too much. Clutch did not disengage so I moved it back to the original marks. Very little slack at lever, guesstimate at 1mm and brake pedal free travel down to about 1/2". Started the car with 4 wheels in the air and the clutch is dragging? 
Brake off, clutch in,= wheels spin.
Brake on, clutch in= wheels stop and motor doesn't notice but going into reverse a bit reluctant. So clutch has a little drag.
Tried to get a bit more clutch pedal travel and can only gain a very little before the pedal stop bracket contacts the metal bracing. As the bracket was smashed down before this wasn't an issue. Was that why it was smashed?
Not going to do anything until the new cable comes but i am getting the 1" or so travel at the lever end (#18) with this one so it is pointing to a bigger issue.

the pedal, moves 6 inches.
the bottom lever at the end moves 1 inch,  a 6:1 mech, lever ratio !
But this matters most, here:
the bottom  lever movies 1" full inch the clutch fully disengages,  or the Clutch actual is bad (or throw out bearing is a wreck)

that is also called clutch drag, that effect seen brank on and brake off.

the 1 inch rule is told on my clutch page.  as is the manual for the 1mm free play at the bottom lever.
my comments are for when free play is set right, and is near impossible to do if the cable is bad deep inside, and fails worse we know under tension.
the ACID test is zero free play (I mean exactly that, zero, not under tension at all , zero free play)<< if the 1 inch RULE fails (means clutch dags) the clutch actual is bad, PP,TOB,DISK. set.





there REASON i made up the 1" rule was exactly that, to priove clutch actual is bad or now, a binary hard logical fact.  good/bad.
and rule #2 is never ever replace any actual clutch until a new cable is tried.

after all cable is 1 hour labor and clutch is 10 times more.  and a $20 cure, not $500+ parts, (shop labor +parts)


try a new cable,  first, always.  like I said the insides wear out and it jams under tension and makes free play impossible to set. (causing huge confusion to anyone)

[fixkick]

"As the bracket was smashed down before this wasn't an issue"


I can explain that 2 why's easy.
1: cable is or was bad, for life of car, driver foot caused, due to bad cable. using excess force)
2: the clutch is or was bad, for life of car. (same gorilla driver with monster grade foot?)

the clutch when failing does that, it forces the driver to over clutch the clutch with deeper, foot POWER force.
the cause are simple and all classic,

1: the TOB throw-out bear is a wreak, collapsed ,burned up and will fail those ways overheated, (every inch of it) in all those ways they all do.
2: clutch PP fingers touching TOB bearing, go red hot from above, error,and are no longer real springs now, but just old soft metal levers and fail.
3; the PP is cracked or any spring of its many there bad or bent (PP = pressure plate)
4: the DISK PLATE, is cracked, once worn to the rivet heads this happens all the time.

5: the front pilot shaft or hub, the TOB sits or DISK hub sits on spline is a wreak (galled bad) and is super common. The TOB itself can be only bad, #1 or it surface it rids on bad.
6: the clutch lever fork to TOB is bad in some ways, bent or the 2 bearings on the end (bush ) are a wreck causing the fork to jam at random.
7: last and not the least this Flywheel tranny pilot shaft, bearing if bad makes even a new or good clutch seem failed , it will cause drag, until it explodes later, drag ends but disk now flops around and then damaging the front tranny main bearing.
7 ways to mess up. and common as nails.

we change the cable first for easy fix, and cross fingers..