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seen, now all evidence is known.
for sure current evidence,
the broken stop bracket was crushed by a wild driver, using hug foot pressure to stop clutch drag, and and that is a bad clutch if the 1 rule happens at ID 19 part.
the acid test is;
new cable (can't jam) and makes next step x10 more easy, free play is super hard to do on any bad cable,.... on this CAR.
set clutch free play to zero. ( exactly and carefully) this is just a test now, later when clutch works back to 15mm to 25mm pedal play)
now make sure no clutch drag happens, with 1 lever inch stroke part ID19 distance at 1 full inch DRAG does not happen (sure a 2 man test sorry but that happens )
the only hard part here on very old cars , "was that damage done THIS time (clutch ) failures or long ago,"
you know it is now. (if the 1 inch rule fails)
the PP loves to go bad, and be NON LINEAR, and that will shift engagement way way off, until total failure. as it is ignored.
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and one more , wrong clutch parts, (actual clutch in the bell housing)
the 8v and 16v clutch are not the same. G16a and G15B
seen some with the TOB looks pregnant and warped from being RED HOT, and or bearing inside are gone to dust, or melted in mass, no limits to how bad, here.
seen china NONAME bearing TOB looked like made from beer cans.. seen first you would look in shock and horror , new in the box. same with PP.
Exidy is one good brand
https://www.exedyusa.com/browse?make=Suz...&year=1996
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?tex...referer=v2
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09-15-2021, 03:25 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-15-2021, 03:29 AM by maint.)
The 1" is measured with 0 slack? I missed that. If so, then it 'may' not drag on that test as it is that close to working. I checked the local NAPA and they list LUK and Valeo clutch packs but only have the LUK. They also have a Balkamp cable but I wanted to be sure so tried for the Suzuki one.
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(09-15-2021, 03:25 AM)maint Wrote: The 1" is measured with 0 slack? I missed that. If so, then it 'may' not drag on that test as it is that close to working. I checked the local NAPA and they list LUK and Valeo clutch packs but only have the LUK. They also have a Balkamp cable but I wanted to be sure so tried for the Suzuki one. LUK is famous long term company a true brand name. 50+ years
it is german company from 1965 + LuK (Lamellen und Kupplungsbau) GmbH is founded in Buehl, Germany
trying to track owners, now,
1975 has uSA plant and put in many ford Pickups new.F-series
now is schaeffler.us Group. with FAG bearing (top german bearing now here, and LUK
1999 INA takes over LuK GmbH
2004 LuK, Inc. changes its name to LuK USA LLC.
the wiki does not say china word, but does show Brazilian plant. too and many in USA.
so if the box shows not made in china it is not fake clutch, as we all know fake clutches sold on ebay and amazon all the time.
the real LUK is here
https://www.repxpert.us/en/schaeffler-pr...Drivetrain
good luck finding the 1" stroke, failure to disengage. I say bad clutch if cable is not bad, and cable preventing free play setting from happening.
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with 10hr labor 4wd,
i always check the parts true maker and plant to be sure , it is new and from the correct mfg. plant.
good luck in your quest.
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09-28-2021, 03:46 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-28-2021, 03:55 PM by maint.)
The Suzuki cable showed up today. I compared the two and the new one is maybe 1/4" longer between the end that is threaded and the rubber flange [with all slack pulled to that end]. Everything else is identical. Biggest difference is now I can adjust the clutch (plus stop & bent bracket) to work. The pedal is a bit more than a 1/4" above the brake pedal with 3/4" free play and there is, at most, 1/4" of thread showing at the clutch lever nut. But it works! Oddly, it settled in as I had a helper operate the clutch and kept adjusting the nut. Good advise to replace cable to a known good one.
Next worry is a small chirping produced when the clutch is disengaged and motor running. Too quiet to record on the phone and maybe only noticeable because it is on a lift in the shop. Will need to watch it for a while.
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(09-28-2021, 03:46 PM)maint Wrote: The Suzuki cable showed up today. I compared the two and the new one is maybe 1/4" longer between the end that is threaded and the rubber flange [with all slack pulled to that end]. Everything else is identical. Biggest difference is now I can adjust the clutch (plus stop & bent bracket) to work. The pedal is a bit more than a 1/4" above the brake pedal with 3/4" free play and there is, at most, 1/4" of thread showing at the clutch lever nut. But it works! Oddly, it settled in as I had a helper operate the clutch and kept adjusting the nut. Good advise to replace cable to a known good one.
Next worry is a small chirping produced when the clutch is disengaged and motor running. Too quiet to record on the phone and maybe only noticeable because it is on a lift in the shop. Will need to watch it for a while. great news.
yes the cable is a pain to adjust, with all that cable internal friction it makes it hard for humans to feel what is going on ,and for sure old cable, worn and or rusty inside.
and yes 2 persons help here, !
the clutch must fully disengages at 1' stroke after slack is gone, this is the only thing that maters. to gain having a no drag clutch.
the J18 is 3/4" of slave piston movement, I tell this to see I did that too.
the most hard clutches are the non linear ones inside the bell, (overhea damage caused) unlimited queerness possible in the area.
good luck to you and happy trails.
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