x-90 P0335 code

[fixkick]

when 335 sets ,pull the DOME fuse for 10mins and put back this reset the memory in the ECU. just in case it gets confused. (live or stored codes)
yes, x90 is rare car super rare and ECU vastly more rare sure..... I do feel your  pain there, yes. and Id bet the ECU is NOT BAD , that is my bet.
check all grounds, anyone related to ECU and all sensors.

the crank cog, and crank snout,
the tone wheel cog 96" has tone wheel (reluctor star) and this must not be damaged in any why , no bent or missing star points allowed.

the car new day1 the cog fits on the snout of the crank very tight (not interference level at all) but fits tight so that I have use a gear puller to off the thing, (zero rust) experience.

The cog has at 94foot pounds of force pushing the cog against the cranks snout back stop this back stop pressure now prevents instant destruction of the key,
the key is only for install timing setup and never ever used to keep cog timed running . that is the purpose of the key only for install time,  just like the belt spring too.
I will look at all posts again, I forget easy (70yo now) and must read the all. ok did, ....


that snout is real bad, and the back stop looks like bloody crap. that is a bad crankshaft. no lie..
it is the worse ive seen ever, and ever posted on any forum related to G16 from 2006 to now, 13 years this takes the case on bad., sorry to tell  you that.

but we also do not have all rules on 335
suzuki is very terse on facts, as we all know, too well.
the facts are that most cars made 96 + will throw codes for 355 (or similar) FOR: all this:

• crank snout bad (is)
  
• for cog damage of any kind (many top cog and bottom)(cog means tbelt, cog wheels)
  
• cam timing tbelt loose  (it is not loose nor any tensions it just fits perfectly this belt, do not set it ever like serpentine belt seen on accessories, on other engines)
  
• cam gear cracked (big top cog damage)
  
• bad belt , too. (stretched, twisted, cog NOTCHES in belt damaged shredded. if it looks funny it is bad)
  
• ON NEW CARS the CMP/CKP are checked for incongruities, (see the impossible happen? and bam sets a code)
  

suzuki only tells you 1 drop out in 20 but fails to say all other  ways to TRIP 335.  (belt jogging illegally  tops my list of not said by them)
A lose belt or anything that acts as a loose belt (anything key word)

not only that, but 335 shuts down DTC 300, so you can't see the fibbing misfire codes.  see why? 
if 355 is crank shaft jog or jitter, that does look just like misfire, but the ECU knows that and kills dead DTC 300 monitor tests with 355 active failures.



this is not good your photos here.rust H3LL !

[fixkick]

that key has huge errors there in degrees
that I know one guy that hadd one this bad
and removed the crank, (skipping a new crank $400) so took his to machine shop pro.
the they using #1 rod crank journal center line...
found and marked the true TDC on the snout .
then machined a new, long key, lone straight key, not woodruff, key not 1/2 moon like suzuki
using a brand new cog and they measured mm slot of new cog exactly and key slot in cog height, (inside cog key slot)
then found new key matching same. cog key width. ( about 2 times, cog key slot height)
then fly cut a new key into the snout,
next almost the same...
or as one guy did, listen carefully.
he cut a new key on the back side of the snout exactly and perfectly 180degrees from normal. (crank is out of car, and TDC actual marked with great care)
then took the stock cog wheel and moved the mark on it 180degrees from normal
this is all you can do with very bad snouts and no $400 for a new crank.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Yeah i had a feeling you were leading to a horrible condition on the snout. I have a feeling its not true and strait but bent slightly.

As we are already deep in the forum ill mark everything iv done so far:

- Placed new key in keyway and with head off, aligned the center of the key with top dead center. Used locktite 660

- New crank bolt and cog with all reluctor wheel teeth fine

- Bolt tightened with air gun and i just rechecked last night and its TIGHT

- New harmonic balancer

- New timing belt and tensioner

-New CKP sensor with all wire ran and check with oscilloscope

- New CMP in the new distributor

- All grounds i could find i shined up and tested with multimeter for very little resistance.


I removed the ECU and opened it up. I have a few capacitors im not liking the way they look. I will upload them shortly so you can see what i mean.

Id rather get a replacement short block for this motor as its already rusted to hell anyway. Im assuming the same block is used from 92-98? as long as its a 1.6L?

I guess if the block doesn't come with the right oil pan i just slap the one i have with the access hole for the CKP on it right?

[CSUSBgeochem1]

capacitor with what looks like the plastic on the outside is gone in one spot and i cant tell if that is leakage or not.

   

[CSUSBgeochem1]

I have no idea why this capacitor is marked but it looks like similar leakage with similar damage.  

   

[CSUSBgeochem1]

entire circuit board for your reference.  96 x-90 MT 2wd

   

[CSUSBgeochem1]

rear of the computer for your reference.  The solder joints on some of those things look half ass. What do you think? See anything thats no good?

   

[fixkick]

capacitor with what looks like the plastic on the outside is gone in one spot and i cant tell if that is leakage or not.

well my ECU page covers all about ECU Rubon black capacitors that all blow up.  like both yours did.
this is not new,  but 1996 usually have good blue caps there, that last an last....
new caps is like $5 cost and easy fix.
they are polarized,  for sure.  Plus lead to Plus pad hole only.

what this does is cause the ECU to reboot constantly,  now or soon and the center cap there, wow that too is bad and will cause noise in the PCU.
this noise sure can make the CKP zero crossing detector go nuts.

the bad snout and bad ecu caps  are the 2 top failures on this car (difficult and not obvious like bad brakes,. tires, wiper or fan belts flying off)
these 2 things can combine into a pure H3LL, . and will only get worse that ECU. some get so bad the CEL lamp goes dead or can not communicte with the ODB2 scan tool or connects then drops off line and repeat that. over and over.

ok you found it, first 96 ive seen with them, 95 back ,huge numbers like this.
my guess is your ECU was made in different factory that used old caps , from 1995 year.

wiki covers this,
called the cap plague

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

[fixkick]

Yeah i had a feeling you were leading to a horrible condition on the snout.  I have a feeling its not true and strait but bent slightly.  

As we are already deep in the forum ill mark everything iv done so far:

- Placed new key in keyway and with head off, aligned the center of the key with top dead center. Used locktite 660

- New crank bolt and cog with all reluctor wheel teeth fine

- Bolt tightened with air gun and i just rechecked last night and its TIGHT

- New harmonic balancer

- New timing belt and tensioner

-New CKP sensor with all wire ran and check with oscilloscope

- New CMP in the new distributor

- All grounds i could find i shined up and tested with multimeter for very little resistance.  


I removed the ECU and opened it up.  I have a few capacitors im not liking the way they look.  I will upload them shortly so you can see what i mean.  

Id rather get a replacement short block for this motor as its already rusted to hell anyway.  Im assuming the same block is used from 92-98? as long as its a 1.6L?

I guess if the block doesn't come with the right oil pan i just slap the one i have with the access hole for the CKP on it right?

correct 92-95 needs to have pan off and oil pump off and  96-98 put on both to old block
then your new crank cog.
95 back has no CKP so that is part of pump too, as pump holds the CKP sensor.

[fixkick]

fix the 2 caps, replace them
see my page here, see acid damage , links and where to buy caps and how to solder them down.
here.
https://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#cap-spec