preparing for the future

[dynabill]

ya gorky, if you are this far into it, there is no point going about it half assed. throw another couple hun in it and you have a new head. less aggravation in the long run. I bought the bolts, felpro headgasket set, rotor and rotor cap, plus wires,and miscellaneous stuff, sigh, just another 200. Just got an email from rock auto, all my parts have shipped. Man they are fast, always!
gorky did you get shifter parts in yet? Made a hell of a difference in sons tracker, the money pit, now. haha. ok guess that s all I have for now. Cheers Bill

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hey jerry I just went to see the other post you and I had almost three years ago, hahaha, 23 pages, Im hoping this one doesnt go this long. lol.

here is the link. http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-side...ls-23.html
what a riot, two months I think we spent on it. cheers bill

[fixkick]

the 1996 year, stopped using the thermprobe and uses an EGR map. (at top rear of intake man)
so that EGR is a 95 or older.
it can work. the older EGR. the first EGR like that is used on calif cars. (16v)
if it pulls in , under vacuum and then closes, its ok. (the putt-putt tube needs to be clear, so it can pass on , CAT back presssures to the MOD valve.
happy trails.

[dynabill]

ok I think I saw that on your pages, I have intake competely apart, cleaning all egr passages and in side intake, man it was a mess in there. some were pretty clear, others needed some love. what is best to clean it with? carb cleaner, or can i soak it in the carb cleaner formula, cant remember the name.I have a can somewhere lol. anyway, nothing but down time now till parts get here might as well clean. cheers Bill

[gorkyb]

Don't feel bad Bill, I had mine down for nearly 5 months and now it's down again for a couple weeks. I ordered the shifter parts not only because I they could be the issue but also because they're cheap enough and I know someday I'll need them, since I plan to keep my Tracker for a long time, plus with Suzuki going out of business and GM not even acknowledging Geo, building a little parts inventory is important IMO. I got lucky with cleaning my intake, they have a huge sonic bath machine with carbon release formula at work, I just submerged it for 20 minutes and it cleaned it all, you wont believe how much carbon came out of it.

I just think is great that fixkick is around to help us along.

[fixkick]

besides, old age.
those valves burned from.
running too lean.
and/ or the EGR was dead. the EGR lowers combustion temperatures at cruise, making valves last longer, especially exhaust..

i love that photo of your head, you can see the TOP mark ,(from the last head job !) do not block that Orifice.

I hope all goes well. and you have 180psi compression soon.
thanks for sharing photos.

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fail 2.
the head has to Ferrel ring guides (at 2 corners), that keep the head from being canted. if not in place both, and canted the cam belt will never run true.

[dynabill]

thanks jerry, I will always post pics as long as the server cooperates, haha, I like gaskets that tell you which way they want to be put in. I went to my dads this weekend so no work was done on the motor, but I have a question that has been gnawing at me. I know that I have to pull cam in order to bolt head down. I am sure new head will come with cam bolted down .when I pulled the old head, i kind of pryed/pulled/jerked the cam out from under the pressure of the valves. Do I need to loosen all of the valve lash adjusters ( for lack of a better name at this point) to get the cam in and out, without risk of causing damage to the journals. I have done a search on your pages, and must not be putting in the right info in to get the answer I need. I have done the DOHC with hydraulic valves and am real familiar with these, but I don't think I have ever done this type. Thanks Bill. Parts are flying in now from rock, but gasket set wont be here til Tuesday, so I will clean the intake some more.

[fixkick]

THAT IS A GREAT QUESTION,
and is yes. loosen the lash adjusters.
so you can get the cam in stalled, and follow the cam cap , torque sequence order

the screws are like 90 inch./lbs. and if the cam cocks funny, you can exceed that. do not stress those screws.
also the head gasket will be thicker, (new) and lash will be wrong, so loosening the lifters is no big deal,. it needs adjusting anyway.
at page 20 see words, DAMAGE ( cam out or in , unevenly) there will still be some lefter force but you will reduce it. (with lash adjusters very loose)

http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-6A-pdf.htm


thanks for sharing photos, they are great !

[dynabill]

Ok thanks for the info jerry, I will be back to that when head gets in. Right now i am putting intake back together, sigh. I should have paid more attention haha. question I have for you now is that I pulled isc off and was hopeful that felpro would send a replacement. well of course they didn't. can this be sealed with rtv, or does it require a true gasket. Also what is torque for mounting throttle body to intake manifold. Your pages say 17 ft/lbs for tracker. for intake but there is no mention for the throttle body. I had inch torque set to 180 in/lbs but thought i was going to strip so I am at about 115 in/lbs. I just want to verify this. I am using anti sieze on everything when I reinstall. thanks Bill

[fixkick]

ISC, sure, it can be RTV'd, it just must not leak. I use xacto knife and bulk gasket material, napa still sells bulk here. in town.
not sure on the TB.
page 25 step55 and 1/2 half, tighten nuts to 17ft/lbs. check out page 62&63 for many more torques.
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-6A-pdf.htm

yes all things on the intake are sealed. EGR on a 96 has so many places to leak. each have a gasket and the side winder pipe SST has an SST gasket.
ISC , EGR, and top to bottom intake plenum as a huge gaseket, no vacuum line can leak but the PCV does leak at all times but has a tiny orifice in the the top valve cover.

i only use my torque wrench on main engine parts , the outside accessory parts , i use snug-up way, the exception is any 6mm bolt. i use 90 inch lbs max, or as the book says. 6mm are real frail.
8mm bolts are very safe.
you are doing great, nothing broken yet, you got the knack.
the EGR bolts are 6mm, , now those invite antisieze. working blind on car, there, is no fun and the lube here, really heaps in the future.

if you own the vacuum tools check all diaphragms for leakdown (inside cracks) and action. EGR min, is the only one on this car , 89s have 3.

good luck on your project,

[fixkick]

bill,
that is very common practice . so take head off with the intake attached. it is hard to do the bottom bolts after, no lie.

question is to put intake on the head first then plant the whole works. Sure ! make sure EGR main is plated too.

all the best to you !