Greetings..and..Transmission

[fixkick]

FOGGING OIL.? like used on outboards. ? winterizing....
crank it and spray for 3 seconds. into air cleaner lid off, big port.

real bearings are great beauty, those Nachi are a great example of quality.
cheers!

[GeoHacker]

FOGGING OIL.? like used on outboards. ? winterizing....
crank it and spray for 3 seconds. into air cleaner lid off, big port.

real bearings are great beauty, those Nachi are a great example of quality.
cheers!

Thanks, will see about the fogging oil.

I got parts a plenty coming, ready to get busy.

From TrailTough, got a countershaft circlip coming, hope it's the right one. Got a clutch coming from Amazon, hope it's decent enough despite not being as high falutin' as I wanted. Had to go with lesser-than due to having some gift card available on Amazon, took the edge off, allowed me to get a clutch to begin with.

Main worry I have (not sure if necessary) is balance, etc. I marked the original pressure plate's location on the flywheel and the plate…so will put both on a rod and see where they balance, and try to match the new to where the old was (balance wise). Can't afford a spin balance, don't even know where to get that done?

Also have a genuine 093-0598 (8valve) Beck/Arnley cable coming, new rear main seal for engine.

My transfer case mount has some rips in its suspension rubber, not sure I can swing a new one just yet though. The front one for the hanger is cheap ($15 on up), but that round one is $$. (Cheapest I've found is $42 to $70?)

r

[fixkick]

the balance is no matter. the clutch is precision balanced in the factory, (all parts)
many engines, are balanced at engine build time even at SUZ, to make it super smooth, but that is very expensive in a racing shop, $$$$ now.
usually only down on 10,000 rpm engines,
the fsm says mark it so the stock parts will be perfect like new.'
but that is all long gone now.. all that.
that is why they say in the book not forget marking u-joints took off, as all that is precision balanced in the factory.

your getting close ! cheers

[GeoHacker]

Hey, wondering if you have advice for the gasket process when joining the cases once it gets here (Threebond 1211 is on order). Might have missed a post. Has really good reviews, along with your recommendation here, which pointed me to it.

Some instructions for RTV etc say finger tighten, let dry an hour, then torque. Other kinds say torque away. No re-torque necessary. Not sure about this 1211 stuff directions wise (not here yet).

Got new rear main seal this morning to put in, and clutch should be here in hours. Got needed circlip, all go for re-assemble. Only 2 more bearings to press, only seals after that.

Oh, guess I get the fun of taking off the flywheel first. (joy)

r

[fixkick]

no pre dry,
but the tube of 1211 covers this as does the FSM for 1996.
tube only says, tack free 30m and cured 100% in 24hrs.
page 30, 5sp fsm
"After cleaning mating surfaces of both cases, coat mating
surface of upper case (8) with sealant evenly and put it over
lower case (6).
Place bolts at their positions and check to make sure that
their height from case surface is the same before tightening
them. Also, check clamp position and torque them to specification.
Tightening torque
Upper case bolt (a) : 23 N·m (2.3 kg-m, 17.0 lb-ft)"

no delay , stated on any page in the official tranny book.




why take fly off? is it needing a shave?


good luck! I think it's a go...

[GeoHacker]

why take fly off? is it needing a shave?
good luck! I think it's a go...

Thanks. Since I'm able to get at it for another few days, reason is to replace the rear main seal. I suspect any oil I see is from above per the other sad-seal tales on your pages, but got the part, drained the oil (worth it for that, ha) and so off I go.

Flywheel might need some cleaning up too, is looking rough now from being naked so long in the weather. Might still be some bread in the pilot place too. (that sure worked the charm)

Pilot bearing that came with the clutch kit felt cheaper than cheap, so I ordered a (claimed to be) Koyo from Napa, pick-up tomorrow. Won't matter given the state of my input shaft, but maybe it will spin a while longer.

rc

---

I suspect any oil I see is from above per the other sad-seal tales on your pages,

Likely is so (though below the seal behind the flywheel looks horrible…not removed yet however to know for sure). Wish it was prettier than that up top.

Aside from a cleanup last timing belt when I also replaced valve cover gasket, has looked like that almost the whole time I've owned the car.

[GeoHacker]

I might have a problem.

That thin friction gear on the countershaft, #59 in the Sidekick drivetrain manual? (#56 in your 4WD drawing) Just in front of the first large gear on the countershaft? That's supposed to turn freely, isn't it? Or not?

That #59 friction gear on mine does not rotate, is all locked up, and the teeth become more and more out of sync as you look around the gear?

I never dismantled that part, looked liked it was OK, since was swapping out bearings, and it did not have any.

Wondering…doesn't turn no matter how hard I twist it?

[GeoHacker]

I might have a problem.

That thin friction gear on the countershaft, #59 in the Sidekick drivetrain manual? (#56 in your 4WD drawing) Just in front of the first large gear on the countershaft? That's supposed to turn freely, isn't it? Or not?

That #59 friction gear on mine does not rotate, is all locked up, and the teeth become more and more out of sync as you look around the gear?

I never dismantled that part, looked liked it was OK, since was swapping out bearings, and it did not have any.

Wondering…doesn't turn no matter how hard I twist it?

I already had the front bearing on, so was kind of limited as to full check and had to keep that #6 pin in place, but popped the circlip and raised it up some, letting the pressure off that spring washer some, and then it turned. Now that it's locked back down and re-circlipped in place, turns not a bit. Guess gear power can still spin it. Seems awful tight for it's purpose. Anyhow, back to work again.

r

[fixkick]

ok, i do one by one.
the Valve cover and or distrib, leaks oil, but you know that.
and yes,mark the fly wheel, with a center punch,, so you can keep it balanced to crank, i think they are.
and the seal on kick block is easiest in world, just mount, there and nice round seal, the felpro seal , or one from napa, the orange one, is best, viton?
it super easy that.
oops bread crumbs, made my day,,,, but its not big deal fly off.
dont' spelunkers use bread crumbs???
first center punch next to 1 bolt, fly, then take off just bolt or stage them all loose.then take off wont and using liquid paper paint the treads inside on CP hole.
just dont clean that hole (LOL)



o,k #59
what that.
56 to 59 i dont understand, my guess its back lash prevent-er, stops whine, in neutral, or no load.
the friction gear set.
i never took mine off, or forget...
it has pin, and ring and spring washer against the friction flat plate, there are no special steps in the book, but for sure align the teeth..


you'r having way too much fun....
cheers .

[GeoHacker]

ok, i do one by one.
and yes,mark the fly wheel, with a center punch,, so you can keep it balanced to crank, i think they are.
and the seal on kick block is easiest in world, just mount, there and nice round seal, the felpro seal , or one from napa
first center punch next to 1 bolt, fly, then take off just bolt or stage them all loose.then take off wont and using liquid paper paint the treads inside on CP hole.
just dont clean that hole (LOL)

but for sure align the teeth..

you'r having way too much fun....
cheers .

I think spelunkers have large teams, leave behind members to mark the trail? (in horror movies at least) Then they have more bread to eat.

I have those cogs painted, so got them lined up as before, will install with that perfect mesh as first contact.

I got the NAPA red one, it's a red Felpro (and box said "Last Item") Makes me wonder if I got another closeout category Suzuki item, because first attempt at getting one, seller on Ebay canceled my transaction…out of stock. So went to NAPA.

Speaking of out of stock…had tried to get a 5th gear from GMPartsEast, who kindly showed one in stock for $75…and the circlip. They canceled my order after saying "No longer stocked" for both but not before leaving my checking account money locked up for 5 days with the authorization. Grr.

Yep, I like how they make that seal because I was fearing digging it out.

GOOD idea I took a look, and am changing out the clutch. Because I took another look at my otherwise good condition disc (as far as remaining friction material)…and the springs in 2 locations are shot..just loose as can be, and their holding areas are worn to paper thin (I'll post a pic, this needs to be seen).

I got a Nachi pilot bearing to replace el-cheapo in the kit (felt dry), and if I wasn't lied to on Amazon, picked up a Timken release bearing , $9.95 ("you saved $93.00" it said) …Closeout? $17 with shipping. Now the release bearing in the kit is a no-name and feels really nice, but Timken for the win, if it's the right one as shown by the number (part checker however said nooooo)

Took a risk anyway. Can always flea-bay it. But they'll only be saving $50. Ha.

Tonight is countershaft re-install. Tomorrow will be (if three bond 1211 arrives) the case going back.

And just in time, because the weather is already turning, and fast.

OH…Ordered a Beck Arnley clutch cable, per the number on your page, 093-0598, and don't know if it's the norm, but has a plastic flange for the firewall? Thunk they were metal. Anyhow, new clutch and cable, should be like butter. Save my knee too. I'll install per your notes.

I do still need to either find a rubber case plug or create a substitute for that missing black plug that probably let my trans oil fly out. Could plug it up with a blob of RTV? Or epoxy putty.