Greetings..and..Transmission

[GeoHacker]

there is no after market here. nobody makes gears for suzuki boxes.
the 44 teeth should match yours.
id be all over the teeth.
if he knows year,

well the top center of tranny bell has the serial # and the letter code for year. what is that.>?
the decode is same as vin codes.
see A thru K codes here
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/VIN-motor-decoder.html


if i had his box serial number on top of bell i can look it up in the suzuki parts cat.

that taper dont matter. just teeth and diameters. (id /od)

my guess is his is a match.
but suzuki makes lots of boxes.

Thanks for the input.

I have not heard back from seller but that once, I will have to call. He not reply yet about price or if he ships.

Current status: except for 19 & 37 ? cogstuffs behind middle main bearing of main shaft (the gap-important one), all stuck behind that low gear bushing 18 (I think that's the one), I have it all apart. Only reason to pull the remainder would be to install a new syncro

[fixkick]

.0015 is pretty tight. i wonder if its been changed by others.? what worries me is when box gets hot, what it would do... go to zero>?
i'd run at least, .003. (mine were .005 and ran like a dream at .005) a shame that suzuki never spec. it out. only made the tool and grins.......
yes those fancy sets are nice...
if a syncro works and its synchro gap is good. Id leave it there too... its original and broken-in perfectly.

the "a" gap is on page 15. of FSM link.
Clearance

[GeoHacker]

[quote='fixkick' pid='4047' dateline='1433594166']
.0015 is pretty tight. i wonder if its been changed by others.? what worries me is when box gets hot, what it would do... go to zero>?
i'd run at least, .003. (mine were .005 and ran like a dream at .005) a shame that suzuki never spec. it out. only made the tool and grins.......
yes those fancy sets are nice...
if a syncro works and its synchro gap is good. Id leave it there too... its original and broken-in perfectly.

the "a" gap is on page 15. of FSM link.
Clearance

[GeoHacker]

Removed the clutch, the disc looks nice actually, almost same depth at rivets as new from some pictures I've seen. I must have been pretty good about not abusing it.

The pilot bearing is not frozen but is dried out and noisy to rotate.

I don't know whether to remove the flywheel and change the engine's rear seal or not. I think I lose most of my oil seepage from valve cover/distributor area I think. Burn a little too I reckon.

[GeoHacker]

Howdy.

Just arrived, happy day, got a new 5th gear split-roller/needle bearing from Petroworks (Darcy is very nice there).

I've been forever behind due to bill problems, and not having a car hasn't helped. But now can begin the main shaft re-construction. This is where having all the parts on that stick sure helps. And wouldn't you know, Harbor Freight has all their presses on sale, and that handy trans jack, so if can get a project boat sold, this pup is done. I realize this saga has been extra pathetic. I'm not really a gear or engine man (internals). Timing belts, alternators, starters, fuel pumps, that I can do better.

In honor of this transmission, I am moved to quote Automotive Fakespeare:

"Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your cars;
I come to bearing Seizure, not to prise him."

(http://www.online-literature.com/shakesp...caesar/10/)

[fixkick]

you're doing great
the pilot seal comes out 3 ways. your way fly off
or using the grease gun trick.
or slam hammer kit, (more HF , cash gone.. lol)

the grease trick is , put max grease in hole there,
and then find a shaft that fits hole but not too tight, (junk box hunts) or a bolt that fits good. even duct taped up to fit snug. bam out.
hit shaft and bearing flies. out.

if you take your time the box will purr like kitten.

[GeoHacker]

the grease trick is , put max grease in hole there,
and then find a shaft that fits hole but not too tight, (junk box hunts) or a bolt that fits good. even duct taped up to fit snug. bam out.
hit shaft and bearing flies. out.

if you take your time the box will purr like kitten.

Thanks.

My pilot bearing is out, I used bread actually. Worked nice.

I am re-assembling the main shaft now.

What I am wondering is on the main shaft re-assembly, on the Low-speed hub (37)

[fixkick]

that groove above is just a oil (lube) capture slot. i dont think it matters,. so long as its on the correct side.
non of the slots mater but only direction of gears and washers.... i dont see it in the factory trans fsm , these issues.
I missed your RTV question, (there should never be RTV here) if found it means others have been here, and explains why the gap you have is too narrow.
to clean off rtv is not easy, ever. it held on Space tiles of the space shuttle and , teflon core liners of Nuclear reactors when first used. back in 60s. (its true purpose)
and now using the correct sealant it wont stick to RTV, i hate RTV, (hard to work with, and rework , slow to dry, and clogs engine bearings..)

I use this. at slow speeds,
walmart now sells a small kit with the adaptor 1/4" arbor. scotch reloc pads/discs/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trm-7516/overview/


found it, the cats meow, use variable speed tool run slow. and just get the RTV off and stop.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-3681-2428-3...g/17128873


yes the bread trick, that is so cool, saw a post on that , and was funny, less mess too, bread better than grease... thanks for the reminder...

---

suzuki bond and even same like named product sold by toy , honda and nissan are not needed.
those OEM names are just re-badged.
threebond 1211

http://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Engine-...B000GZR4QC


https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#...1&tbm=shop

this is the original sealant and will not fail. ever.

---

that seal is ok, i think

[GeoHacker]

I use this. at slow speeds,
walmart now sells a small kit with the adaptor 1/4" arbor. scotch reloc pads/discs/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trm-7516/overview/


found it, the cats meow, use variable speed tool run slow. and just get the RTV off and stop.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-3681-2428-3...g/17128873

Thanks for all that handy information.

I am proceeding with first bearing press, but have to complete my tool (I have no access to the real thing)

I call it a "Pull-Press" since it uses the bearing puller to instead pull it back on. (breaker bar ratchet for leverage, and extended 5/16 threaded rod inside aluminum tubing to prevent flexing). 2 x 4 members, and 1/8 aluminum plate sandwiches make it very rigid.

I have the Harbor Freight puller kit, and am adapting the tuning fork portion with long screw to create a press using some plumbing stuff and washers so it's a) uniform and b) pressing only on the race.

I will heat up the bearing (no more than 200 F), and cool down the shaft some before pulling. I think it should then do the trick. Essentially, it just pulls the whole frame forwards as it tightens, which pushes the tube against the bearing, pressing it on. Pull-press. Since it's screw based, hitting the right spot and tolerance should be easier, just turn a teensy bit more once close.

rc

[fixkick]

i used a feeler gauge to set the gap, using only pipe, and feeler , to press it back.
EMP pipe works too...
your doing real well there......