Clutch Release Shaft

[sina27]

ok,  the shaft is side held by those bussing, and yes, they are , nylon. (best guess)
there are springs inside, that break, this old,  the shaft seems to last but never those bushings.
sure the TO bearing is captured in the yoke, on all cars STICK.
when you take it apart you will see all this and is not odd at all for any STICK (try an 88 jeep,something with coaxial hydraulic throwout bearing and cylinder all in one , (ouch)
the shaft only goes in one way, to align to the TOut #4.
the markes are all there, end of shaft and the lever. and must be aliened.

here are the steps, (clearing my head,2007 to now..... tick tick tick,,,,,
1: drop box bell as one to floor.
2: now, remove the Tout. bearing.
3: the shaft is now 100%free, only the bushings can stop you (spring detached right side, facing TOut)
4: the bushing on the left may need to be driving out first, I CAN not remember but do understand this is all normal here, no magic, just shaft held captive by the 5 things inside.

Take the lever off first,  right side of  bell clutch lever. then slide the shaft right (left facing bell) then see end of shaft drop from bell (left) {right facing it}
then the shaft slides  right and out. facing. it. the lever off allows that last action.
this is not in the book because if you were looking at the bell now ,it be obvious they say.
the captive parts are clear,
2 bush.
1 spring.
1 lever.
1 , TOut bearing.

remove the last 3 above. then deal with 2 bushings last,  if a bush needs to be pushed out (left or right do so)  I can not remember if the bushings must pushed out but at that point in time if it dont fall out BINGO push time it is..... I should have done a video on it, I do remember it was,  tiny bit tricky only that. 13 years ago..... I restored 3 kicks then. all are 5sp.

hope that helps you .  good luck ! and happy trails.
btw . if on car fully together , if  you try to move the shaft left and right , it will have free play,  but not up and down that is bad BUSH.
The shaft is auto centered, by actions of the tight fit of the Tout bearing on the TRANNY snout end. 
any play felt L/R would be the TOut fork tangs, or the TOout collapsing as all LOVE TO DO when Bad, 100k miles or more or drivers that right the clutch full time.
This is a WYSIWYG event, you drop the box and go, gee all is ok, or you see,  omg,  the PP cracked and sent flying metal chucks and wrecked the XYZ.(FATE WINS)
No man (mortal) can tell you what will  be then, at the drop, your shop will tell you , more parts may be needed, and is NO LIE.  what will be , WILL BE.

96-98 range, 95 older slightly different, for sure #7 is newer in 96. so if last guy used 95 trans in 96 again WYSIWYG )as are cables super different with lower rubber slip mount! 96+

[fixkick]

are you doing ok here.. (no photos of your cars cable at 20 by you makes this super hard) posted.
the parts
that mark is NOT arbitrary at all that is factory made alignment marks. do so, there is mark on the pedal top end right side end spin shaft that must be aligned.

the GM tracker updates on the cable parts and part #20 did NOT happen on the same Vin # cars, at all
so part 20/14the end of 14 cable on the most new 96s up, have rubber drop in mount. NO MORE NUTS on the end of the cable, not 18/19 but at 20 input. point.
there is NOT just one cable, made, 2door, 4door, 8 and 16v..
part 25 is below the RAD it hold the cable from shifting at bottom or Radiator. same as 24 does up stream.
You said, creaking?

I hear a "creaking" sound when I press the clutch in and out - and the sound comes from the area where the lever / cable / bracket is,
ok when you push the clutch pedal in, and you hear it creak, at that exact point you stop your foot movement does the sound end.?
yes, that is cable noise
no, that is throwout bearing noise.
learn this next trick.
T.out noise, test.1:
cable end dropped off.
car idling move lever 10 by hand , as it moves easy the T.out hits the PP, finger inside, if noise starts up the T.O is bad, or horrifice PP finger damage.


ive no idea what cable you have (maker yes, p/n NO)
there is not just one cable, ok?
lets do rules. first.. no cable buy.
part 25 must align to the factory spline end first.
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_1.html
and
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...20(15).jpg
next the titty mark.
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_7.html

the adjustments are all in the 1996 FSM manual did you read that? find that yet, in POST one of this forum, the 1st sticky post?
now cables 101

https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch...tch-Cables

there are many cable, GEN1 and GEN2 are nut end and no nut rubber end see on 1996 first.

[fixkick]

the 96 factory cable is here .
23710-57BA0[old]   (57B12 new #)   16v  only and will not fit any 1992-95 ,unless upgraded.
nor will old 8v cables (now  gone  1996) fit this car.  ok.?

92-95 only nutted end cables...P/N below, ::::: no rubber mount 16v only.
23710- 57B11 (obsolete at Suz says use B12)

the matrix table here covers this.
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch...tch-Cables

does not cover all brands,
if the cable is rubber mounted, end, (not that end bellows rubber, deal forget that) the rubber mount means,  1996 and newer car.  that is the CHANGE YEAR.
96 cars are made July 1995 and the first week of making any 96, it can have 95 parts there, not smog related.
no photos of your cable posted, so answers helping are impossible and way  too long. sorry.

the is the 16v 1996 CHANGE over NEW GEN2, CABLE< GOT THIS< OR NOT? see the  arrow there, that arrow screams 96 up.
if your mount. is wrong and is 1995 mount Gen1, the cable below is WRONG,  no photos of your mount shown.




in 2007  I scanned the GM micro fiche, micro films, (have em I do)  the cables are tricky,  for sure me not seeing your. part ID 20 bracket.
and see these GM P/N.
 ending in 996
I even decoded GM  , codes.  like LS5 etc.  I can do same on SUZUKI Parts lists actual, if needed and cross them I can. if you posted photos, for sure.




my Ufilms prove Trackers are not just in N.America.. see that?  shocking yes.

[sina27]

Thanks for the reply - I will try and take a photo. 
To answer some of your questions:
The current cable I am running on my 96 is indeed the "rubber mount" version. It is the Beck Arnley 093-0642, which was recommended by your website (thank you!)
I ordered a genuine suzuki cable which is on its way, part 23710-57B12.
So my cable is correct. 

The creaking sound is definetly not TO bearing. It is possible that my cable is not routed correctly - the cable routes downwards, clamps a few inches away from the power steering belt, and then routes under the radiator (the radiator has a built in cable holder which the cable sits in). Maybe the cable is shifting around at the bottom of the radiator? I can try and reinforce the cable with some zip ties down there. I'll try and take a photo

The creaking sound seems to be from some sort of incorrect tension somewhere around the clutch shaft / actuator, the creaking sound is only heard when i press in the clutch and depress it slowly; if i hold the clutch in halfway, no sound is heard. So it could be the cable, cable routing, or improper cable mounting. 

Now for the most important thing - what you call the "titty mark" at the clutch actuator / clutch shaft - so I understand that the factory aligned them as so:
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_7.html
A couple years ago before I bought this car, the trannny was rebuilt and a new clutch was installed by a mechanic . When I inspected the "titty mark", the alignment was WAY off, and an arbitrary mark was drawn on the clutch shaft by the mechanic inidicating thats where the "new" alignment should be. If I were to remove the actuator and install it according to the original factory titty mark, the actuator would be WAY off (it wouldnt be perpindicular to the bell housing) and the clutch would not be able to engage. 
Does that mean that something was installed incorrectly during the tranny rebuilding process? Should I resort to removing the transmission, and replacing the shaft, TO bearing, actuator, spring, etc..?
I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how the clutch shaft is initially aligned during installation in the first place..

I quickly made a drawing of what I mean about the clutch actuator: Your photo linked about shows the actuator angled away from the front of the car - is this how it should be in its relaxed position? Is it angled that far left just before it comes into contact with the TO bearing? 
If I remove my clutch cable from the actuator and let it relax, it looks like this (look at the green line, the actuator is angled very slighty towards the front of the car. [/url]
[url=https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG]https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG


So if my lever is angled to forward, then when I press in the clutch the lever may move too far forward and cause excess tension, correct? Maybe I should angle the actuator like how you have it shown in the image

[fixkick]

Thanks for the reply - I will try and take a photo. 
To answer some of your questions:
The current cable I am running on my 96 is indeed the "rubber mount" version. It is the Beck Arnley 093-0642, which was recommended by your website (thank you!)
I ordered a genuine suzuki cable which is on its way, part 23710-57B12.
So my cable is correct. 

The creaking sound is definetly not TO bearing. It is possible that my cable is not routed correctly - the cable routes downwards, clamps a few inches away from the power steering belt, and then routes under the radiator (the radiator has a built in cable holder which the cable sits in). Maybe the cable is shifting around at the bottom of the radiator? I can try and reinforce the cable with some zip ties down there. I'll try and take a photo

The creaking sound seems to be from some sort of incorrect tension somewhere around the clutch shaft / actuator, the creaking sound is only heard when i press in the clutch and depress it slowly; if i hold the clutch in halfway, no sound is heard. So it could be the cable, cable routing, or improper cable mounting. 

Now for the most important thing - what you call the "titty mark" at the clutch actuator / clutch shaft - so I understand that the factory aligned them as so:
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_7.html
A couple years ago before I bought this car, the trannny was rebuilt and a new clutch was installed by a mechanic . When I inspected the "titty mark", the alignment was WAY off, and an arbitrary mark was drawn on the clutch shaft by the mechanic inidicating thats where the "new" alignment should be. If I were to remove the actuator and install it according to the original factory titty mark, the actuator would be WAY off (it wouldnt be perpindicular to the bell housing) and the clutch would not be able to engage. 
Does that mean that something was installed incorrectly during the tranny rebuilding process? Should I resort to removing the transmission, and replacing the shaft, TO bearing, actuator, spring, etc..?
I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how the clutch shaft is initially aligned during installation in the first place..

I quickly made a drawing of what I mean about the clutch actuator: Your photo linked about shows the actuator angled away from the front of the car - is this how it should be in its relaxed position? Is it angled that far left just before it comes into contact with the TO bearing? 
If I remove my clutch cable from the actuator and let it relax, it looks like this (look at the green line, the actuator is angled very slighty towards the front of the car. [/url]
[url=https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG]https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG


So if my lever is angled to forward, then when I press in the clutch the lever may move too far forward and cause excess tension, correct? Maybe I should angle the actuator like how you have it shown in the image

gawd knows what clutch he used inside or TObearing?
my photo is 100% factory way for sure (I had 3 cars all 3 the same mark and later set right after new clutch I put in.) not sure if bell is on car or not and fitted up, I FORGET) sorry.
seen some real crap clutches sold on fleabay, pure junk.(china crap has no limit on crap) the maker  ,I USED EXEDY ,  
or he use 8valve clutch on 16valve engine.  wrong that is. the 16v is tad bigger. diameter disk, and matching PP.

if you get all this wrong that lever, this SMACKS to me of wrong clutch
if you had right clutch and put the lever wrong, it makes  pedal act way wrong, and hard to slip the clutch driving, that is because of the 2 levers landing on the front of the TOBearing

I can not fathom why any mechanic would move lever 10, not any reasons of any kind,  its all wrong that.


that titty is just factory punch mark, and is very important to get that right for the right feel of  the clutch.
well at least the 2wd is 10x more easy to work on lacking transfer case.

the bell cross clutch lever is in nylon bushings and you can oil them if one squeaks. lightly.

other possible (the lever is bent inside,  100bls of foot pressure can be 600 lbs of pressure at the TO bearing face ( and if last person had seized to shaft bearing, (TO) i can see that the fingers might bend there, and mechanic loath to fix this right (new parts)  part ID #5 is my topic on this line.  damaged, inside.
A TOB (throw out ) bearing can fail and go red hot and seize and strong driver (gorilla like) can wreck and wreck the pedals and the fire wall cracked.

sadly only close inspections find any of these , failures.
the cable too can be lubricated, using PEN oil, spray, that will not dry out like WD (blue /yellow/white ) can does. or silicon spray oil.

hope you  solve your riddle I do and soon, good luck to you for  sure, wish was there to add helping hands....

[fixkick]

here is the 96 clutch page

page 7 covers that match index mark,(titty)

it also covers pedal match mark too and both are important for good clutch feel. driving.

on same PDF
are you missing part seen in figure 13  , ID, 735


see page 13 too, with care.

all in all , the clutch manual is very good, 1996, it is. the real deal but shows wrong cable. pin figure 9,. it shows the 1992 to 95 cable
but I fully believe they changed the cable to newer rubber end in middle of july  1995
July1 1995 started making OBD2 1996 cars in the CAMI plant.  and some parts lagged until parts bins went dry,   (many folks have had this problem) gen1 or Gen2 cables.
the book 1996 is GMs (marked preliminary and is full of errors, even showing wrong distributor and timing and parts there,  and those are errors in the book)

but you have newer 96 with rubber cable.  and matching mount.  and is AOK that for sure.

[sina27]

Thanks. 
I will try and re-adjust the lever by eye for the time being, and if that fails I guess I will try and install a new clutch myself (the brand you recommended), and while I'm doing that I might as well replace the TOB and the clutch shaft part number 5, as well as the two nylon bushings, and the spring that shaft sits in

[fixkick]

Thanks. 
I will try and re-adjust the lever by eye for the time being, and if that fails I guess I will try and install a new clutch myself (the brand you recommended), and while I'm doing that I might as well replace the TOB and the clutch shaft part number 5, as well as the two nylon bushings, and the spring that shaft sits in

your are welcome
try to get the lever set correct , right side of bell. , and get the cable end with free play set  correct.
it should work if not the plot thickens.

crossing fingers for you,  something simple...
cheers !

[sina27]

IAfter taking a look I’m convinced that the problem is internal in the bell housing, thinking it’s a bent shaft.  In addition to the clutch & TO bearing (which I'll order from US) -  I'm going to order the shaft, lever (lever spline doesnt look great), TO pin, shaft spring, shaft bushings from megazip.
Never done something like this before, so hopefully I get it right. If you think theres anything I left out please let me know!

Here is the list of stuff I'm going to order (clutch & bearing not listed):
https://imgur.com/a/Kshs4Fk

cheers!

[fixkick]

IAfter taking a look I’m convinced that the problem is internal in the bell housing, thinking it’s a bent shaft.  In addition to the clutch & TO bearing (which I'll order from US) -  I'm going to order the shaft, lever (lever spline doesnt look great), TO pin, shaft spring, shaft bushings from megazip.
Never done something like this before, so hopefully I get it right. If you think theres anything I left out please let me know!

Here is the list of stuff I'm going to order (clutch & bearing not listed):
https://imgur.com/a/Kshs4Fk

cheers!

see my tranny pull page?
just ignore transfer case statements and front pro shaft,
the car is easy, so high off ground. lots of room there. under.
https://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/ne...howto.html


only real trick , is not let engine tilt back and crush distributor.
it pulls just like most MT car trans.
jack stands best lacking lift, 4 stands is more safe no chance of rolling,
ah trick 2, is frame off floor,  1 inch more that bell housing is round..... easy to forget this, it is.  frame to ground distance.
drain the box first. as tail shaft yoke pulled it will leak lots of GL4 lube.
pull side plug on the box first, or refilling will be impossible. (not top load box no fill there)

It's actually fun,  a project that lets you see all parts and condition.
make sure the tranny pilot shaft, (not a wreck on splines, and grabbed by hand ,as not lateral play or the bearing there is NO GOOD nor is its seal.

here is hoping you  get no surprises.  and be safe.  cheers.