the wire is blue-white
that is wrong.
the diag pin marked diag, must not cause the ECU to go crazy. ever.
both these?
" car would not start or start and shut off if diag jumper was in."
not start with added 5% throttle?
key on CEL always glows, every time?
if you insert the DIAG jumper, and engine stalls can person 2 save said stall with fast right foot actions?
are you sure the pins you jumper are correct, is it 4pin DLC or 6PIN at the battery.
as you can see with a dead ISC , the engine can run or start poorly, .
your ECU is bad. it fails my ECU test page. test 8 fails.
I told you , the ECU can be in diagmode flashing 12s can you can drive anywhere and the CEL flashes codes 12s all day.
this is a working ECU, that can do all its jobs.
if the ecu is crashing , it can not do all its jobs, (spark and fuel are top jobs, inside, but not the others, )
that means that the ECU acts funny , if over tasked.
i can't believe you have never looked in the ECU,
this is like 2nd check day one.
all 89./95 fail for bad caps... (1 time)
the main large corner cap may be leaking.
omg, bad steering wins , over ECU and idle, and brakes when all battles of logic and order.
i cant believe you have not looked in the ECU can.... use a number 3 Phillips to remove ECU screws, and throw them away and use hex heads, 6mm
the lid comes right off, after removal, and like all connectors they are locked and never force them, the lock lever depresses then wiggle the connector back and off ecu.
yes, too many things to do,,,, yes,,,, and old cars are just that.... hard hard work....
day 1: kick checks.
1: brakes ok,, fuel system not leaking , all fluids good. and belts. (hoses too, if 20 years old)
2: front crank pulley 17mm nut at 94 ft/lbs per TSB, or risk crank damage... $400 error.
3: ECU caps good. (look and if see green slime its bad, the if see words Rubycon on black caps, get them the hell out of there. ask for good brand for $1
4: CEL glows key on, turn off running.
5: can drive all day with diag pins jumpered flashing 12s all day... the proof that ECU is solid, and not gross errors. (this ecu can find minor errors ever, Egr excepted)
the ecu can even , stop mid stride, flashing out a DTC code. the 12s (if it has 12s now) must flash out in perfect cadence.... not skipping a beat......
if skips, or dies, doing that, this means the ECU just crashed.
seen many do that.... and cured all.
you do know, that limphome mode cancels idle ISC controls ,right?
since 12s fail, that means its in backup mode.
when the ECU fails it can go to limphome or backup. mode. both kill idle, but runs, some think running in both modes are fine, many do.... like lawmmower
burning fuel like crazy.
limphome mode is mimic mode, the ECU knows a sensor is dead, do goes to limp (failsafe)
but if the ECU main processes fail.... the ECU drops deeper down, to backup mode.
backup MODE, causes the CEL lamp to go DEAD. and most sensors are now simulated, and does this , so poorly that the engine floods, (your stall?)
backup mode is lawn mower mode, no spark advance, radical crude injection rates, even to the point of TPS angles = injection rates, yes, crude as hell.
backup mode is just last ditch effort to get the driver out of trouble. its not there to run to the store, or go on a trip.
its for like for , backing out of a snow bank and not get Carbon monoxide poisoning or the like.
Most these 90s (early) ecu have all failed already and are already fixed with new caps. 2nd reason to look day 1. is just that...... what is there, names....on those cans...(caps)
if yours is still original and virgin, i have zero hope for it. (not ungraded) (repaired)
now what happens with a dried out corner cap,
the on board, voltage regulator , drops out. this cause the 5vdc logic power to drop and return, then the processor reboots. (jumps to 0 addr)
or drops to backup mode, or failsafe. or bounce around in 3 different modes. lost... trying to recover for loss of main power.
this can happen many times a minute, and why the 12s drop off line. (means goes dead, or the 12 pulses are corrupted in some way)
the regulator can in fact drop out , in the middle of a boot cycle. and stall the engine.
really , having a bad power source to any computer is a very very bad thing.... (to you its just a bad ECU,)
exhibit 1:
![[Image: ECU-16v-92w.JPG]](http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-16v-92w.JPG)
replace c103. if its black or shows signs of bulging or, cracked or see green slime below it.
or replace it for JUST Cause.
it is polarized ,means it solders down only 1 way, plus to plus. (minus to minus)
this drawing , identifies all major parts that fail, caps and all output drivers. (driver transistors can blow up, easy,)
some caps just dry out, with no warming, or signs at all (visual)
my ESR cap meter finds them bad, 0uF, crazy high ESR.
that is wrong.
the diag pin marked diag, must not cause the ECU to go crazy. ever.
both these?
" car would not start or start and shut off if diag jumper was in."
not start with added 5% throttle?
key on CEL always glows, every time?
if you insert the DIAG jumper, and engine stalls can person 2 save said stall with fast right foot actions?
are you sure the pins you jumper are correct, is it 4pin DLC or 6PIN at the battery.
as you can see with a dead ISC , the engine can run or start poorly, .
your ECU is bad. it fails my ECU test page. test 8 fails.
I told you , the ECU can be in diagmode flashing 12s can you can drive anywhere and the CEL flashes codes 12s all day.
this is a working ECU, that can do all its jobs.
if the ecu is crashing , it can not do all its jobs, (spark and fuel are top jobs, inside, but not the others, )
that means that the ECU acts funny , if over tasked.
i can't believe you have never looked in the ECU,
this is like 2nd check day one.
all 89./95 fail for bad caps... (1 time)
the main large corner cap may be leaking.
omg, bad steering wins , over ECU and idle, and brakes when all battles of logic and order.
i cant believe you have not looked in the ECU can.... use a number 3 Phillips to remove ECU screws, and throw them away and use hex heads, 6mm
the lid comes right off, after removal, and like all connectors they are locked and never force them, the lock lever depresses then wiggle the connector back and off ecu.
yes, too many things to do,,,, yes,,,, and old cars are just that.... hard hard work....
day 1: kick checks.
1: brakes ok,, fuel system not leaking , all fluids good. and belts. (hoses too, if 20 years old)
2: front crank pulley 17mm nut at 94 ft/lbs per TSB, or risk crank damage... $400 error.
3: ECU caps good. (look and if see green slime its bad, the if see words Rubycon on black caps, get them the hell out of there. ask for good brand for $1
4: CEL glows key on, turn off running.
5: can drive all day with diag pins jumpered flashing 12s all day... the proof that ECU is solid, and not gross errors. (this ecu can find minor errors ever, Egr excepted)
the ecu can even , stop mid stride, flashing out a DTC code. the 12s (if it has 12s now) must flash out in perfect cadence.... not skipping a beat......
if skips, or dies, doing that, this means the ECU just crashed.
seen many do that.... and cured all.
you do know, that limphome mode cancels idle ISC controls ,right?
since 12s fail, that means its in backup mode.
when the ECU fails it can go to limphome or backup. mode. both kill idle, but runs, some think running in both modes are fine, many do.... like lawmmower
burning fuel like crazy.
limphome mode is mimic mode, the ECU knows a sensor is dead, do goes to limp (failsafe)
but if the ECU main processes fail.... the ECU drops deeper down, to backup mode.
backup MODE, causes the CEL lamp to go DEAD. and most sensors are now simulated, and does this , so poorly that the engine floods, (your stall?)
backup mode is lawn mower mode, no spark advance, radical crude injection rates, even to the point of TPS angles = injection rates, yes, crude as hell.
backup mode is just last ditch effort to get the driver out of trouble. its not there to run to the store, or go on a trip.
its for like for , backing out of a snow bank and not get Carbon monoxide poisoning or the like.
Most these 90s (early) ecu have all failed already and are already fixed with new caps. 2nd reason to look day 1. is just that...... what is there, names....on those cans...(caps)
if yours is still original and virgin, i have zero hope for it. (not ungraded) (repaired)
now what happens with a dried out corner cap,
the on board, voltage regulator , drops out. this cause the 5vdc logic power to drop and return, then the processor reboots. (jumps to 0 addr)
or drops to backup mode, or failsafe. or bounce around in 3 different modes. lost... trying to recover for loss of main power.
this can happen many times a minute, and why the 12s drop off line. (means goes dead, or the 12 pulses are corrupted in some way)
the regulator can in fact drop out , in the middle of a boot cycle. and stall the engine.
really , having a bad power source to any computer is a very very bad thing.... (to you its just a bad ECU,)
exhibit 1:
replace c103. if its black or shows signs of bulging or, cracked or see green slime below it.
or replace it for JUST Cause.
it is polarized ,means it solders down only 1 way, plus to plus. (minus to minus)
this drawing , identifies all major parts that fail, caps and all output drivers. (driver transistors can blow up, easy,)
some caps just dry out, with no warming, or signs at all (visual)
my ESR cap meter finds them bad, 0uF, crazy high ESR.
http://www.fixkick.com
