A/T 4speed fails, car wont move until hot.

[zukitrek]

i know nothing, im blind here. (worse than a bat) (id need to be there, to see)
it check the idle switch (0v , each time you got to idle.)
To make sure I get this right, the meaning of this, you mean by idle when rpm needle finally drops to that 800 mark or when it drops somewhere in the RPM instrument?
then see if the DMM can read near center, 7vdc.
If mine don't do the trick. Can you recommend one not from flea bay that perhaps I could get locally? Craftsman etc?
it will if lucky.... (a across the ISC pins, now here else,2 pins, 2 meter leads, across them) probed.
not 0vdc
not 14vdc
if not near 7v, turn the bleed screw until the voltage moves to 7vdc (pay no mind to + and - symbols on LCD screen)
if it moves this voltage good, that means its alive. and working. and meter not fibbing to you.
Cant wait to get home and do it the right way.

some meters will not work here,
crossing fingers your meter works, and no other problems or bad idle switch. etc.

Ok. Will report to you as always.

Gracias Sir Fix!!

[fixkick]

btw , your idle switch works , at least 1/2 the time, you saw the ISC, go live.. yesterday. so that is all a good sign.
the 16v has the most difficult TPS idle switch to adjust, it is a real pain, best is with the TB removed.!
the 8v is cake walk,
this is because the 16v hides the throttle stop screw and makes using the 3 feeler gauges a big pain.
so if the switch is at 0v , then just do the Duty cycle settings.
then worry the switch later if it proves, flaky.

[zukitrek]

Got it señor.

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btw , your idle switch works , at least 1/2 the time, you saw the ISC, go live.. yesterday. so that is all a good sign.
Well kind of, cause the neg wire was on engine ground at the time os test, but yes, I got a reading. Hope my DMM do works.

[zukitrek]

So thats what you mean by dead, no reading at all? Well then thats as a good sign. Ill see what happens tonight.

[zukitrek]

Sir I already tried the ISC test again. Looks like:
A- Im doing something wrong
B-DMM is not doing the job
C-Both
D-ISC is not that OK
E-TPS needs adjustment
F-Something else is wrong.

Im preparing a video to see if you can make something out of this.
Also did another video that shows you RPMs in P, R, N and D

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Here the link:

https://youtu.be/wl22yKf3WLo

Now Im getting lost in all this.

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Here is the other video I did after the ISC test. See the huge RPM drop?

https://youtu.be/3CrCpwlcHmQ

That happens when going from any position above D. P-D or N-D or R-D. R, N and P rpm's stay pretty much steady.

[zukitrek]

I know all this is colourless to you, you blind, but I got keep testing until something reveals itself.
Like I said she runs fine but like you said even like that there could be issues.

[fixkick]

im not blind, it just an expression that i cant drive your car, and use my 6 senses ( no taste) and experience the totality of driving. (cant see you shift either)
There are no lack of things to witness. driving or running the engine.

2 volts. not 7 (so does this 2vdc change if you turn the bleed screw (top rear of TB)?, 2 volt (ill pretend meter works) implies ecu thinks RPM is too high.
but.....

the second video shows the ISC failing, hard. "no regulation" the ECU is not controlling the ISC. rpm drifts by engine loading.... that is wrong... that drift.
"the purpose of the isc it prevent that drift." the ISC servo is the regulation of idle speeds.
but.....
so is the idle switch closed? if yes, the turning the bleeds screw would wake up the ISC and cause it to start regulating.

the idle switch is easy to test in 1min, flat, back probing the idle switch

what was idle speed in video 1? when at 2vdc on idle.

and
The 16v TB idle switch is seen here, pin 1 is bottom pin , pin 4 is top
the switch is. pin 2 (second up from bottom)
connect dmm there, black to engine ground , is ok
then dmm red lead tip. to pin 2, ,the voltage is near 0vdc even , just key on or at idle.

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we can only set the dutycycle (bleed) to 7v if the engine is running the ISC, regulating, it is not regulating in video 2.
we must find out why?

[zukitrek]

Good day sir. Lol, I KNOW you are not blind i was just elaborating on the term you posted before, of course by not being here and actually testing the car. I know is very difficult for you to diagnose
but Im doing my best.
Ok 1 video, RPMS were 800 and although not shown in the video I backed up the screw (increasing rpms) but volts would not change at all. So RPMS were a bit more than 800 then I screwed it back in a bit until landing in 800 again.

Ok, Im gonna do a short commute to my kids school and will try testing the Idle switch.

Thanks again for your time.

[fixkick]

yes you are,, doing your best. and is harder on your end, for sure.

some DMM are blind to 200Hz signals, either too slow, has filter on the DC mode, or is reading peak signals on purpose (its not this last one)
but the ECU is for sure lost.
it is not regulating, per the video 2 test.
my guess 2 is the meter is not working...

you can test the idle switch key on or running.
the switch goes below 500 ohms and the volts on the pin go to near 0v. it idle.
this is the 1st step for idle controls. #1 most important. Usueally the ECU, will flash a code for bad idle switch but that takes driving with DIAG jumper in place to see this happen, and can be random fail on old cars. (switch is old,caused)

[zukitrek]

Oh ok I can try the DIAG jumper in but I don't know if you remember the odd thing that was happening to me, car would not start or start and shut off if diag jumper was in.
That was before bad tranny repair but can try again. Not that the bad tranny was the reason, just saying it as a time reference.

Could it be that ECU is faulty? I have not taken it out to check the caps (too much things too do and very little time, as we speak buggy is parked again with whole front suspension and steering being repaired) but Ill find time to do it all hopefully. Ok i will be doing the Idle switch test shortly.

Gracias!!