16v 1.6L Bad bog questions

[Rapom]

"Grabs the popcorn"
Lol..

Only comment I have is.. My manifold was cracked. I replaced it with a header and replaced the 02 sensor at the same time as it was welded in. Also the header I bought was a direct bolt in BUT my collector had been modified over the years and I ended up having to replace the entire system... of course I went with stainless mandrel bent piping with a new cat and flowmaster... that small manifold crack ended up costing me almost $800.. but i had so so much wrong with the kick on top of that.. the exhaust fix made no immediate difference. The P.O. really botched my kick.

[fixkick]

proof


see that/
that is a REAL PUTT. "A"
see the B wave that is vacuum pulse (negative pressure) if there is a leak, it for sure sucks in 20% oxygenated atmosphere,
if the suck puts that on the O2 sensor, the engine ECU slams super rich. (like clock work)
unplug the O2 sensors see if the rich goes bye-bye.?
or block the crack in some way, do not get burned its near 2000f there. use gloves if hot. or wait.

on new cars, 96+ the scans clearly show 02 slammed, classical.

[fixkick]

yes cost me $300
i say this blind I cant see car,
cars have this funny habit of sucking up non OEM parts. after say 25years age and suzuki not selling 1/2 the parts now and far worse.
lots of non stock parts and add on's or missing parts. (damaged)
but it still goes, if say the 02 is on the header end, as all are.
then if the gasket leaks bingo
if the header to cat pipe, cracks , bingo.
cracks happen only when they want to.


my newest jeep inline 6 (back when 2002?)
has SST headers stock (all did) to pass EPA 8 year rule? is why its sst)
we took it off every 50k miles and had to weld it with sST rod.
it cracks only on the back side, every time.. ran it to 250k and sold it.
the back side leak is was found 1st time, with rubber hose on a stick (loved to leak only red hot EXHAUST, normal hot)
and hose to ear idling, putts sounds all over there, where no man can go ,for sure ears. (we found a cure but is off topic , jeeps)

cracks happen. just expect them.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok fixkick just letting you know I pulled the O2 sensor and the idle seemed to get worse with some stumbling. Seemed to run better with it plugged in. Bog is still there. I have a feeling when I gas the accelerator it’s flooding the kick. Just a matter of time till my pump test parts get here

[fixkick]

if fuel pressure is wrong, (too high) the O2 might help it, and removed be worse. same with too low fuel pressure
the pull test is best done when you think the O2 is telling lies(exhaust leaks)
seems yours is working but that takes real scan tools to see. (or a scope to see it swing)
best is to hold off for the adapter.
you will find it, you are on track.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Thanks for the words of encouragement kick! I feel your logical deduction has led me to a very noticeable problem. Finally got the adapter and gauge and with key one I only register a WHOPPING. 11 psi. As the battery had been juiced through all the tests I charged it and got the engine started. It was rough and took time as it’s close to 40 F out. Finally got it started and running and it’s steady at 17 psi!!

Here is the video of it running at 17 psi!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/15781113...232555594/

I think we have found the issue. Should I test and go or buy a new pump right away? FPR seems to run fine but I can test that as well again.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok now on to tests. Testing fpr how long should diaphragm Hold vacuum for. My gauge pumps up but won’t hold and immediately leaksdown

[fixkick]

17PSI FUEL PRESSURE IS TOTALLY WRONG
NEXT IS PINCH THE FPR,HOSE, AND PSI IS 55 PSI.
IF NO PUMP BAD.
IF YES, FPR BAD, ITS STUCK WIDE OPEN,.... how it runs at all at 17, omg, think for that data point ! (facts under failed modes)

your are ON TRAck and good


the diaphragm is ruptured, too. most oddly , when that happens PSI goes to way too high, the PFR is broken 2 ways, as many are now this old.
that be one nasty PFR, there..
sorry.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Back with ya fix

GREAT news!!! The low fuel pressure was due to a slit in the rubber line between the pump and the assembly; in tank. We purchased both pump assembly and regulator. Went with the assembly because the old pump assembly was pretty wrecked. After a little battle with fuel leaks everything went good and now the BOG IS GONE! Proper fuel pressure and it rises when I throttle it at idle. Drove way better but I can tell small adjustments are still in order. I will check the injectors for leakage as we have yet to smog this new vehicle. Have new cat and O2 and really need it to pass smog first time so I’ll be checking that system as well. THANK YOU!! You have no idea how much help you have been.

[fixkick]

yes, others have seen this same hose split too.
sorry it needs that deep a fix. and labor
the 1995 needs the roller sniffer smog tests at 2 speeds 15 and 25mph

best is to get a non CARB tests,. aka; ARB.. not state recorded, that way you avoid , gross polluter status.
calif air resource board.

one way is to do this.
1: a real tuneup, spark
2: clean the maf
3;clean injectors or (do the fuel pressure leak down test (30 seconds) see that it holds spec pressure. Key on, see pressure, key off time the drop.
4; a new 02 if older than 50k, spec life is 100k miles. (clean fuel no junk additives, "kmart fuel cleaner" gets you to 100k. hahah)
5: MAKE SURE THE EGR WORKs FIRST. or Nox (NO) will fail

this allows for no misfire
and closed loop happening at 15/25 mph (02 Closed loop)
also that new cat will hide some bad issues. for a while.

take the test with the cat hot as you can get, it, do not park, then wait inline key off, (caT COOLS), start engine and run a test.
the best way is run it 20miles on highway, fast, 60mph? then go to the shop, keep it running, until your turn. and pass(worst case)


good luck !!!!!!!