Turn signals out after smoke in combo switch

[fixkick]

Ok fix. I did my own test light, tested with battery and it works. what works?

(doing what?)


[quote]I soldered the 10

[zukitrek]

[quote='fixkick' pid='3028' dateline='1416689535']

Ok fix. I did my own test light, tested with battery and it works. what works?

(doing what?)
The test light. Just testing so I can be do the relays test.

   

   


[quote]I soldered the 10

[zukitrek]

Kick I found right front connector mangled and broken off(green wire). I fixed it and tried the signal lever but no blinking. I'll go over in testing combo, as relay is OK.

   

   

There is a way to test dash signal light or not?

[fixkick]

100% tops testing there.
very very good
the Combo is bad
the combo sends power from the combo fuse inputs (1 of 2)
and then sends it to the relay, pin 3, and then the Relay can then pulse the Green wire relay wire.
its failing to do that.
if you take the combo apart, it will be obvious why the green wire is dead. the contacts are bad or the mech. parts that push it are bad.

ok photo 3 shows the cars green blinker wire cut.
so it hit ground and burned up the blinker, combo switch
i told you to inspect all corners of the car first to make sure there is no damage. you failed to do that, and risk burning up a new combo
combo means the combination switch, the switch that does all things, there, in same. (long list)

now we know what is bad, and why
bravo !!!

why not inspect all 4 corners of car. for frayed wires, I see that photo is a double fail, cut and is frayed . both bad.
the wires must not have damage, I sure you know how good wires look, right? like new. no cuts, no burns, no collision damage, not frayed, not crushed nor cut .

[zukitrek]

Ohh thanks to you!! We could say you re my online car electronics teacher. So, can combo be fixed? I can try it. Heck is my only option now.

Regards!!

[fixkick]

my guess is it shorted an the PO used a bigger fuse and burned up the combo.
like the oldest story in the world this. on all cars.
owners dont understand why fuses exist.

---

the combo does come apart, you know that i saw you do it.
it has pins. the pin that feeds, relay pin 3 is bad.
find that wire on the combo (colors change by maker on switch side, suzuki never made it, they bought it)
see?
so find that wire, then follow it into the switch and discover contacts that are bad.
it can only 3 things
1 that wire cut (both sides of switch)
2 bad contacts (burned)
3 or the mechanics the close said switch is failing .
all easy to see, and examine.
good luck

[zukitrek]

my guess is it shorted an the PO used a bigger fuse and burned up the combo.
like the oldest story in the world this. on all cars.
owners dont understand why fuses exist.

---

the combo does come apart, you know that i saw you do it.
it has pins. the pin that feeds, relay pin 3 is bad.
find that wire on the combo (colors change by maker on switch side, suzuki never made it, they bought it)
see?
so find that wire, then follow it into the switch and discover contacts that are bad.
it can only 3 things
1 that wire cut (both sides of switch)
2 bad contacts (burned)
3 or the mechanics the close said switch is failing .
all easy to see, and examine.
good luck

At a simple look nothings seems wrong? What can I try? Here some pics.

   

Middle contact is the green wire contact from one side. Next pic is the solder side.

   

   

I removed the black plastic cover to check wires condition and it looks good. Should I test continuity or something. Correct fuse was always used.

Thanks

[fixkick]

nice photos, first ever. here.

use your Ohm meter , on low ohms scale (resistance)
a short is 0 ohms
open is infinity
this is called continuity checking.
see that solid yellow wire, use the meter to find which contact is on yellow (12vdc fuse power is this line)
then if its like one in photo 1 top. are the taps bendable. if they overheat they get weak and bend down, causing and open circuit.
so bend them back to normal.
do so and test the switch with the meter, for 0 ohms from yellow solid to the yellow green , 0 ohms blinking left or right.
those oblong tabs look distorted to me. see that?
i do not know which contact is the yellow-green but id find it with my meter.
its the wire that goes to pin 3 on the relay. for sure.

G/Y is blink right
G/R is blink left
yellow is power (for blinks only)
Green is relay pulsing power input.
that leaves
Y/Green (suzuki and geo many use different colors here, you will have to figure this out ,via. relay pin 3
with this information you can test the switch on the bench, with any DMM ohms meter.

see this drawing, its accurate, (but is Geo drawing)
see those red arrows. from yellow down this is failing. this path. think of a highway and the river bridge is up, (switch open)]

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=116


when you take a photo like that, please twist the wires to that all stripes are in view. so i can help better.

---

this is phase 1 of switch repair
phase 2 starts when you find actual contacts for solid yellow wire.
id need a photo of the other side of the switches, you only showed, 1 side.
triple sets have some kind of wiper contact that can fail too, there are 2 sides of all switches.
contacts and wipers.
and the mechanics that make the move.

[zukitrek]

Here they are Fix. Tabs are not bendable. They are flat. Continuity has been consistent from connector to combo and from relay to combo. All wires(solid yellow, yellow/white and green all measured 0.05 on the lowest ohm range. I did find a burnt spot between green wire contact and green/red. Below all the pics I think can help you out.

   
The yellow wire from fuse is the top one at the right. The middle one is the yellow/white going to relay. The ones at the left are green, middle, green/yellow below and green/red top of solid green. I tested resistance from solder point to harness connector and from solder point to really in thew appropiatye wires. Yellow always had 12v. But anyways resistance was okay.

   

This is the burnt spot I told you, and maybe the problem, but don't know how it affects just by looking at it?
   

This is the other side of the combo switch.

   

This is the contact I told you when I first dissembled the combo, way ago, that looked strange. There is metal missing at both ends of that copper tab.

   
This is the connector end of the combo. All pins looked ok and no burns.

Hope you make something out of this.

J

[fixkick]

use the ohm meter , (continuity checks)
to find what contacts, are yellow,
the switch that connects to yellow is bad.

with meter connect to yellow. pin.
then with other meter lead touch all the contacts , finding the the one that is 0 ohms.
this is the bad switch, then find out why its bad. (observe it carefully)