Quote:anything electric that overloads, can fail , weaken or have lower service life.
the bulbs can short.
so the right front blinks perfectly (or dimly) and the RR is dead, dim or what.

LF ok
LR ok
RR what? dead or dim?
RF what?

seems if only RR is bad, then RR is shorted. but is it dim or dread. dime would be shorted and out would be bad lamp or wire cuts. or corrosion in the socket.

this system is super simple system, no computers behind the tails lamps and all that complexity.
just a bulb, a socket and a wire.
100years same thing simple.

the fuse many not blow in an overload
that is because the blinker module, cuts current in 1/2 , flash, out, flash out. 1/2.
and it also limits current.'
and is designed to act odd under overloads.
and the cheap weak suzuki wiring, will act as a current limit, (small copper gauge)

the right side is wired in PARALLEL. so any short on that side, causes and overload. front or rear, or between.
any open on that line will only effect that end of car.
fixkick
click above for , lots of diagnosis and repair data !Idea
[quote='zukitrek' pid='2870' dateline='1414366641']
KIk, I have put the 15a fuse back and turn signal still don't work. I disassembled the combo switch after the smoke event to see if anything was burnt (none was) and when assembling back the hazard connector was left out, Does this has to do with turn signals not working? Now none of the signals work, rear or front.

(10-28-2014, 01:39 AM)fixkick Wrote: ah here is,, was...... thanks.

1 do all 5 lamps fail 4 corners and the dash cluster lamp? left and right? are some dim, ?
NONE work nor the dash lights for either side
2 do hazards fail. i wish youd answer this.??? and not having this fact makes diagnosis super hard due to the redundant common path.
No Fix, none work nor the dash lights indicating when signals are selected. When I reassembled the combo switch back I left the hazard button out by mistake. Maybe I have to disassemble and put back in order to do proper testing.
3 are some lights glowing dim, in the dark? blinking or NOT?
none
4 if you remove all 4 corners of lamps, but 1, remaining, does it work right by itself ( best is a brand new lamp here now,, they DO SHORT)[/b]
have not tried that yet


the best way to fix blinkers is to have only 1 brand new bulb in the system ..'
then try it in all positions.
next we do meter checks. all this is easy with 1 needle probe.
any volt meter works , any , analog or digital. 20vdc range.

more facts, on blinks. all help.
1: dim bulbs at any time, are there?
2: the blinker modul will act up , if overloaded, by design tell the driver your lights are bad. or shorted.
3: the blinker module will not click or flash if the power pin is dead, the ground pin is dead, or the lamp loads are dead. (no lamps)
4; if any lamp is shorted on the hazard mode, it too will fail.

---

now i will try to address this.
"My question is where would that black wire, from the combo end, near? the fuse box."

what does that mean?, what back wire connected to what connector, be specfic. we have a full drawing there. all black wires are clearly shown in the PDF.
That is the ground wire you mentioned in the other thread that is a common ground in the combo switch

the only combo black ground wire is G200 ground that makes the head lights work. the turns use switched hot, NOT GROUND.
but the blinker module sure does use a black ground wire.
and uses the same dash body G200 ground terminus point.
if you CUT G200 you will lose vast things, in car. huge. For SURE dead headlights.
Headlight are OK as well as high beam