Suzuki Sidekick 1993 G16B 1.6 16v - BRAZIL (34-MAF)

[rocmtfk]

Hello everyone,



I own a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JLX 1.6 16v ENGINE G16B that was imported (I believe from the USA) in the 1990s to Brazil. I'm going through some problems, mainly because here, in Brazil, parts (even more original parts) are very complicated to find. Shortly after the code 34 - MAF started to appear on the panel and the engine dies when you take your foot off the accelerator.

Engine without force, strong smell of fuel, without IDLE.

I think buying a new MAF is the logical thing to do but should not the car go into "limp mode"? If you have a problem with the TPS sensor, does the ECU detect and warn you?

Thank you for your help!

[fixkick]

Nice car, even better photo ,wow,, thanks for sharing, and welcome./
The PCM (ecu) is not AI, it is just crude, cheap small ,slow, limited micro controller.
It only knows, 2 things on the MAF< dead totally, 0v or very low voltage out, or stuck at 5-12 vdc, stuck at max.
if its dirty the output will be weak and power low, and the PCU will not tell you that ever. (unless newer Car from USA 1996 (lean codes)
your PCM is OBD1, = dumb as a brick, by todays standards.
when you get code 34 that is LIMPHOME< after all the car would not run at all with ANY dead MAF ever.
that is fact and limphome is horrible in 1989-1995 (USA laws and spec'd cars)
it goes super rich, trying hard emulatate dead mAF, (It used, RPM and TPS throttle angles to do that ) so crude its sad.
the spark advance is dead, or limited.
idle controls can end.
the engine will want to flood.
try to think this way, my engine should not run at all now, how lucky it is for me i can drive to any autoshop now, and they fix it ,saving a $300 + tow bill.
that is what limp home means. (limp to shop is better term for 99% of most car owners)

No the TPS is the worst OBD1 monitor of all, only (just like the MAF) it tells you its unplugged, dead, or wires cut to hit (0v and 5vdc or more, it warns, and if the idle switch fails)
This ECU is only (X (or some sensor)is dead, right now, the ECU learns this and stores codes, errors.or DTCs as those are called)

Not even close tomy new jeep, it has what jeep calls Incongruous reading errors.
eg. it see maf reading too low, based on TPS /RPM air flow predictions, and flags you with that code, (weak maf) so you clean the maf and it is ok now.
that answers your other question on TPS, (your old car has no predictive modeling software inside, it is dumb ECU/PCM)

step one clean the maf (or inspections are first)
it the output is dead, (34 means dead ) then it will not work cleaned, but gee Id measure it with DMM and look inside the MAF see if there is birds nest inside.
critter nets. of ANY KIND, seen holes in the air box so say mud dobber nest there? (and hornet of sorts)
best is to look first, no wonder what is bad, Inspections are always first.
one guy had this so called , cold air kit there and the maf and cone filter(junk) let the maf bounce up and down an bet it self to death, sure looking is first.
BTW the call that cold air but is hot air. they lie and sell millions of these to kids.


I have the readings here.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html

keep an open mind
we open the hood
and the last guy connected after market (XYZ) and stole the power wire to the MAF, this will make the MAF 100% dead. .
wires to it damaged from 26years of poor service or hackers doing there thing.(or bad luck)
also the maf
on this side is a Mitsubishi sticker, if missing this, then that is clone maf and most are junk.(china imported cloned , knockoff junk) ok found a real OEM MAF photo next.
(if forget if denso or Mitsubishi made. 10 years ago seen)

make sure 12vdc makes it to the MAF pin per pages linked here, or your new MAF WILL BE DEAD. this is the first metered check !!!!

id get mine here, CARDONE (the do not sell direct only special ordered in autostores)
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-...=1995&info=

this is a REFURB.



suzuki here state side, sells this for $1200, uSD. id bet they sell non a that price. (2 times what i paid for my car used)


here is my buy parts page, here is the 58B00 MAF.used on all USA cars this gen.

http://fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#MAF16


here is one of the best places to buy sidekick parts. the rock
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...ensor,5128


see my schematic see the 3 pin maf and now it is wired, (colors)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png

the page I made has many annotations in red,see that? should make fixing any car like this (engine EFI) more easy.

[fixkick]

[fixkick]

see this sticker here, (rare photos ) it is a REAL SUZUKI maf,
E5xxxxx i think is the Mitsubishi secret numbers,

[rocmtfk]

Nice car, even better photo ,wow,, thanks for sharing, and welcome./
The PCM (ecu) is not AI, it is just crude, cheap small ,slow, limited micro controller.
It only knows, 2 things on the MAF< dead totally, 0v or very low voltage out, or stuck at 5-12 vdc, stuck at max.
(...)

see my schematic see the 3 pin maf and now it is wired, (colors)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
the page I made has many annotations in red,see that? should make fixing any car like this (engine EFI) more easy.

Fixkick,

Thank you very much for your time and patience. I am not fluent in English so I apologize if I make some mistakes in writing, but I am reading carefully and I promise that I will do the necessary checks. I am a faithful user of www.fixkick.com and congratulations for the excellent work.

Here in Brazil there are few mechanics really specialized in Suzuki (I know two in all the state of Rio de Janeiro with 16 million people ...), with this many cars are abandoned even in good conditions just because simple maintenance is unknown by the mechanics here .

The cars roll until they break and are abandoned. I think it's sad, but actions like yours and some struggling to keep them running around make it worthwhile.

In time,

One more doubt.

I changed the belts and adjusted the ignition point in one of these mechanics. Okay, let's get right to the point:

When I use "strobe light" (using the "freeze jumper" and so on), the marking does not stay in the scale, it is left out of it no matter how much I adjust the distributor. What could have happened? Aside from the IDLE / MAF problem, the motor responds normally, does not fail (Except when CHECK ENGINE with code 34 lights) ...

Again, thank you very much.

[rocmtfk]

Friends,

I checked the voltages at the MAF pinouts. Actually they do not check with the expected voltages (but only a bit like the negative indicating 0.02 and not 0.05) but in a test with the car on where everything seemed ok, suddenly, the voltage dropped to 0.01, the check engine light turned on and RPM dropped down.

Again, a few seconds later, the readings went to 2.20 volts and the RPM returned to normal.

Now I'll wait to get a MAF and replace. Thanks!

[fixkick]

Friends,

I checked the voltages at the MAF pinouts. Actually they do not check with the expected voltages (but only a bit like the negative indicating 0.02 and not 0.05) but in a test with the car on where everything seemed ok, suddenly, the voltage dropped to 0.01, the check engine light turned on and RPM dropped down.

Again, a few seconds later, the readings went to 2.20 volts and the RPM returned to normal.

Now I'll wait to get a MAF and replace. Thanks!

thanks for your kind words.
And you are very welcome, for sure ,from Brazil. (I have property in Peru, too, so,.....)
You can not set timing of the distributor, in LIMPHOME mode, best is leave it alone , unless you know it is way off, (example someone pulled the distributor?) (if you must do this, the freeze is not working, so just ball park it(close is close enough) the freeze fails if engine not hot. and if idle switch is stuck open , at 5v. and must not be in limphome mode.

The MAF has 3 pins, all 3 matter. big time.
12vdc power pin
ground pin.
and output, output will be dead if 12v pin is not correct say 10v to 15v range good . 12v pin is the power supply pin to the MAF. if it drops to 0v, or below 10 vdc, this connection is bad. (the battery is 14.7 running so too will be this pin)
at idle the output pin must be near 1.7–2.0 volts ,spec output.
Output at 0v and 0.1, 0.2 or 0.5v are all zero volts, near zero volts out is a dead MAF when you see that happen you MUST immediately check 2 pins, ground and 12v.
connect the meters (DMM) black test wire to battery negative lug. use the red lead to back probe the MAF pins. DO know that MAFs can be intermittent, if yes are bad.
engine idling, output , goes to zero check.
pin 1 = 0v if reads 12 or 14v now, that means the ground wire to the maf is broken or cut.
pin 3, =12v (10 to 15v ) this is power, if power is lost to the maf all maf go to sleep (off line, no damage to it must goes to sleep , just like a cell phone does with dead battery)
pin 2, is output. 1.8v is common reading never ever near 0volts.
all readings with the connectors connect ed and engine idling and maf failing.
if you gun the throttle you can hit 3v easy at pin 3, if not the maf is dirty clean it with carb cleaner spray at 0.3 meter distance never up close . The element is fragile.

[fixkick]

g/s is grams per second.
grams of actual AIR. (yes air has mass, )