Overheat now no start

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Hey kick! i know its been a while but i wanted to get back to you. So YES it turns out the head was a chinese cast but i didnt see anything really wrong with the casting. I was able to get the distributor drive gear on the old cam moved to the new cam, but sadly at the expense of the old cam. I was pissed when i saw they chewed up a few lobes in the process. Wont be going back there again. So it took 2 weeks to get the head bolts because they sent the wrong set first (HBK350 not 530) once the 530's reached me i started putting it back together. I had to clearance the rear cap for the distributor because the gear on the new cam was hitting the housing slightly (the cast looked jagged anyway so i took a dremel to it). Replaced all radiator hoses and bought a new radiator. Water pump was good and the bearing didnt seem too worn. Its timed and running ill just have to make sure everything is adjusted again, like cables. The kick drives a lot better and you dont hear the loud valve anymore. No codes thrown at all. If anything in the future happens you will definitely hear from me.

[fixkick]

thanks for the feedback, seems this is the future for suzuki parts , knockoffs from china.
that must have been fun pulling the gear and pressing on the new cam.
no book covers that, but its only 13 teeth, and must be set wright, so that the base slot does not set wrong, seems you go it.
27 degrees of variance there, finding the center of that is how to that (360 div by 13) and 2 times that for cranks degrees.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Yeah they must have set it right because when i time the engine using a strobe the timing is right in the center of the notch for the bolt. I really didnt do a good job on driving it when i first run. I had to know it would go so after (2) ten mile journeys of going no more than 55 mph i decided to take it up "cajon pass" in southern california which is a 6% incline. it made it up and down fine but i didnt realize i needed to baby the motor for 500 miles. So right now i am doing an oil/filter change at 250 miles past the replacement, and my girlfriend has been babying the motor while driving to work, not letting it get above 3500 rpm. I will do another oil/filter change at 500 miles as well as re valve lash and re-torque the head bolts. Everything sound ok to you so far? any opinions?

[fixkick]

they probably, (wise) marked 1 tooth to the cam side, then put it same place on the new cam, carefully.
boy, id have them side by side and would go super careful. (not wanting to do it 2 times. all put together,( but sure thanks for the update, we have 2 post here with CHINA head, and gearless cams.
sounds to me it running good now. cheers

[CSUSBgeochem1]

glad i can help and will continue to update until its romping (even then if something happens or i would like to upgrade you know ill be back here). hope this post or the bog post under my name is able to get people back on the road. Im always here to help or for feedback of any sort Kick!

[fetcher]

This topic lands right up my alley. I should have checked in sooner to help.
It sucks that you lost coolant and overheated. Like FixKick wrote, one time
my heater hose broke and I just cut off the bad part and looped it using
a socket wrench socket and the hose clamps that connected the hoses to
the heater core.

I also got one of those new heads and no cam gear and had the hardest time to
figure out what to do. Finally found out that the distributor drive gear was
press on. After some discussion here, and not knowing how pressed on it was,
I took the cam to a head shop to have the cam gear exchanged by means of a
hydraulic press. I did mark where the cam gear should be indexed, but the guy
in the shop said that there is a nub cast in the cam blank for indexing.
Sorry your old cam got chewed up. I gave both of my cams to the shop guy
wrapped with cardboard and tape with just the distributor drive gear end
exposed. Anyone find a source for G16b distributor drive gears? I would
like to have my old head rebuilt. I was sent bad head bolts too, If I remember
correctly the DNJ ones were good ones, but the DNJ head gasket Kit had the wrong
O ring for the distributor mount, had to re use the old O ring.

Years ago, I thought that I needed to drive around with tools to fix the car. Now
I am thinking that I need a Harbor Freight Hydraulic press too.

[fixkick]

thanks for the hint on the cam , index nib.
never have needed to pull that gear, all heads here have gear on cam, never a reason to take it off.
but sure, makes lots of sense indexed there, 13 teeth is huge distance to be off 1/13 . then the distrib base slot will not line up,...
good luck finding head bolts. DNJ did have them.

[fetcher]

I did get the right head bolts. The job is already done.
I just wish that I saw this topic back when I could have helped.
I went through the same deal with the distributor drive gear,
seems they only sell heads with the later reluctor, none
with the distributor drive gear.

[fetcher]

I just can't help it. In my thinking with the 13 tooth distributor drive gear,
the worst you could ever be off is exactly half a tooth and therefore
1/26 th of a circle off.

After I put everything back together the car would not start.
So, I end up moving the distributor back and forth and I still
can't start the car.
So, thinking that I goofed up the timing I rip out the front of
the engine in order to check the timing belt.
Which ended up to be dead on.
The car did not start because I had no gas.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Thanks for all your input Fetcher! im in a whole new pickle now. after all the success i have had i took the valve cover off to do the 500 mile check up and noticed the two #1 intake valves had lost the retaining bolts and the horse shoe clips. they are in the head and i can pull them out im just not sure how to fix em. ill look into your site and see if you have a breakdown of the assembly. god what a nightmare, i was almost done.