Overheat now no start

[fixkick]

ok, CSUS
95 16v 1.6l sidekick
new head put on, ?
why not show photo of the damage,
The intake valve.#1
first there is the cam caps, that must only be torqued to 100inch pounds max, the first edition of the GM book says FEET, a bold in the face lie, and strips them out. the link below is a better GM book. better than mine.
then the are 4 rocker per cylinder, and spring clips. on 1/2 the rockers.
valves do not have retaining bolts, they have stem clips at the end of the stem. sorry not sure what you see there, at all.

the other 3 cylinders, are the same , and are a prefect example of the way they go together, or all all 3 wrong.?
ever read the FSM for 1996 (do not read the torque setting in the GM book but errors were corrected in revision 2, but not all as you will see) but read the head pages for assembly rules, and all steps, skip none.
it covers every step on assembly.

Chapter 6a, download this chapter, keep it. free book grab it , some day it will be gone, (its half gone new)
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190802...kerfsm.htm


6A:
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190904...6A-pdf.htm


pdf 19, figure 34? shows the side with no springs. on exhaust side, see that nice photo>?
did you mess with cam caps? y/n? figure 35?

the short rocker is INTAKE (both intakes) see that spring there/ 6063

page 22 ,book revision 0, has the bold face LIE< see that torque there ?
this is the revised version of the book and gets 98 lb/inches, correct,
(divide by 12 to get feet (8.2 foot /lbs, it is, TINY do not go more torque here or the tiny 6mm bolts will strip out so very easy.
note the caps are tighted in a staging order, or risk more damage. the caps must not be mixed up, nor reversed, or doom happens.
the head bolts are staged 2 ways ( order ) and amount (3 levels too)., page 26 covers these steps.

I have no idea at all what you mean by bolt lost , retaining bolts. ??????? there are no valve bolts, (there are lash adjusters, those?
if the lash adjusters are not torqued to spec, they too come lose or strip. (all parts here are metric, and many are not SOLD in auto stores, only at suzuki )

page 13 shows lash nut at 13 Foot /lbs (or 13x12=156 INCH/lbs. do not exceed these numbers, 0
Suzuki book stated 11 Ft/lbs is minimum torque on jam nuts, 11-13 in the book.
GM uses the upper numbers, SUZUKI books are best, and no errors in them but we dont have many and are very very rare.

see my torque page, for hints.
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/torque1.html

when taking down any engine, photos can be a real help later, for sure head jobs.

[fixkick]

here is the 96 engine chapter only of the manual , that is OCR'd it can be searched. (eg, search LASH works now)
it is 20 megabytes and the download works here.

Chapter 6A, is here too., now.

http://ge.tt/6gvplbp2



see errors in the book marked in RED.

[fixkick]

the spring must be inserted in such a way that it will not fall out.
warning , only suzuki sells these springs,,,, I have the P/N if you need it,
one of mine was broken in 2, and bought one.
A head job on this car is not easy, lots of steps, 16valves and cam timing tricky, (false marks ("I") in 2 places, )
as rule a 6mm threaded bolts, never goes much over 100 inch/ lbs, (rocker bolts 132 inch is the exception)
the highest is steel in to steel or iron/
the lowest is steel bolt in to aluminum. 97inch/pounds is par. or 11 nM (newten meters) 6mm bolt topic.... treads.... always an issue on rice burners....

[fixkick]

here is my head page, not perfect and is old over 10 years ago.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/head-pull/head-pull.html

does this help (looking now at all my photos on heads)
Im not 100% sure but part 11 the springs , are not to keep the rocker #6 from flying away, it's to stop them from making a huge racket. (IMO)?





one error in my page (blush) is i forgot to say , when not using special narrow feeler gauges on LASH settings (rocker tip to stem), but using cam lob to rocker heels.(exhaust)
one can use the rocker heals,
the long rockers have a ratio of lift. that must be divided into the lash spec to do that trick.
the heels of part 7/8, I guess is 2:1. IDK
so real lash of Intake: .005 to .007 would be 1/2 that it set on the heels of the rocker, not tips. 0.003 cold. (one could measure the lever ratio using 2 readings both ends of the rocker, but sadly I forgot to...
in intake side has no gain/loss leverage, so is 1:1. and sets to spec, on intake side there.

this comment is due to the crazy ,valve stem slots #18. narrow used here. (one can cut a feeler in half and do this (long wise), after cleaning off the bur damage from said cut, and ugly process that I avoid.
here is the spot that is hard to reach on suzuki engines

[CSUSBgeochem1]

I love that you put all the information in here. I actually found all this on your site. During my beligerant worries i forgot the spare head and all the clips on it. I found a good one and replaced the broken clip.

No damage was found on the inside of the head and nothing was clogged. i must not have tightened the retaining nuts down tight enough? a few were loose as well. Pulled out the broken clip.

i re-tightened head bolts to 52 ft lbs and always only tighten the cam bolts down to 100 inch pounds as you say. I tighten them in the proper sequence. I actually valve lash using the lobes on only the intake side so its good to know its 1:1 but i totally forgot that the rocker arm is slotted and i just slide a big ol bent feeler gauge under there on the exhaust valves. I will re valve lash at 2000 miles after the head change with your new specs of .003 cold THANK YOU for that info!!

i just completed the 500 mile oil change as well so it should be good.

Slapped everything back together and it starts up and runs fine! hopefully no problems in the future! You wana hear something funny??? I have a sneaky suspicion the cheap oreilly fuel pressure regulator i had so many problems with dried and cracked when the car sat for the head job, and is now leaking slightly because i have a little wobble in my timing (wanders slightly even with jumper installed). I remember that was one of the symptoms when i had the fuel problems. I will have to slap the gauge back on at some point and make sure everything is ok.

Kick drives fine now with some pick up. I will let you know if anything else occurs. thanks again!!!

[CSUSBgeochem1]

For clarity it was the #11 spring that broke on one of the intake valves and both retaining bolts #12 on the #1 cylinder intake side that worked loose inside the head.

[fixkick]

are those all stock parts, #12 and #9? not from home depot? no joke and sorry if it seem so odd ,but one guy here did that. butter soft bolts from hardware stored.
yes the springs break this old , the #11
the nut and adjuster screw are very hard metal, that take a beating, and must be orig. class parts. from Suzuki (or GEO)
if they were set from 132 inch lbs they will not ever get loss, unless set wrong low side or overtorqued and the threads stripped out.
good to see its better now !!!
happy trails.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok back again kick! I took the ride out for the weekend and it performed great on the trails. I was noticing the temp gauge kinda acting funny and bouncing around. No leaks no overheating the entire trip so i checked the sender and the spade connector was brittle and broke off. I replaced it but now for some odd reason the gauge is not reading. The sender is fine, continuity from the brass case to the intake. Seems the gauge itself is not working. I tried to ground the wire out for a second and no response at all from the gauge. I would like to see if the wire is broken somewhere in between but i cant seem to find a wiring diagram that includes the instrument cluster. I only find ones that include the ECM but no instrument cluster. Kind of a big item to miss on wiring diagrams. do you happen to know if the yellow/white wire is the same color at the cluster? There is a wire of the same color at the plug of the cluster but i get no continuity from the plug at the cluster to the plug at the sender.

[fixkick]

did you crimp on the spade lug on to the insulation?

we have it. its real simple this part.
the fuse runs all gauges, so is not that.

the wire is open, you proved that.
the drawing is on my page 95 16v.
schematics.
page 2, is 16v
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20...5GAGES.pdf


i think your spade is no good, do over, and fixed.
unless c204 or c208 are rusty.

so glad to see you car running again wow.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

THANKS FOR THAT SCHEMATIC!! Im curious what c204 and c208? are they junction points? fuse boxes?