oil type and oil pump

[kthnos]

vitara 1998 1.6L/16v (G16B), 5spd, 5dr.
first things first, i know oil type is widely debated anyway. so here are my questions:

1.oil type. i live in crete,greece. winter is about +5C on cold days and summer is about +35C on hot days. so is 5w-30 a candicate? i have seen the suzuki chart per FSM. i currently run 10w-30 (FSM guide), but was hoping to go to 5w-30 for a little more engine efficiency but without compromising protection and lubrication.

2.oil pump. do we even replace this? can`t find anything in the FSM. if yes, how often? my car has like 200k miles on it already.

3.oil pressure. i know a gauge is the best approach, but how about replacing stock oil pressure sender with a higher psi switch? the idea here is to blink the oil lamp (on the dash cluster) BEFORE the catastrophical 3psi stock switch rating. any feedback on this?

thanks,
kostis

[fixkick]

wow car gets 30mpg and you want more from 1.6L? why? why compromise engine protection ever for 0.5MPG. why?
and gas here is dirt cheap now. same price as 1970 (inflation adjusted) a glut of oil....
run the correct grade oil for you climate do not let others tell you , you can pay games here.
Your engine is not new, its 18 years and my guess lots of miles
the bearings and clearances on this engine are not like today's, new cars. and is now with looser clearances.(aged wear)
run the spec. oil, for your climate. and do not go too thin.
nor run thin oil in summer. (use and oil pressure gauge,on old engines, 55psi cold start, and less hot. but stays 20psi idle. and higher at faster RPM/.
one key part in the is the cam, shaft, and our FSM shows not running the thinner oils, with the 16v cam,,, above the stated air temps.

yes, oil is now a religion, (and worse)
I avoid all that.....
the oil pump takes a pan drop. or other magic, (the pump has 2 long studs on the bottom, and some unscrew and others are cast in place,fixed for ever.)
the pan needs to be off and my page on pan drop covers both ways
http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html

id get a gauge first, and see how pressure run hot and cold engine,and idle and say 3000 RPM
if its good, end worry.
Most G16s with low oil pressure with 10w-30 oil are , bad rod bearings.
The gauges are easy to install with a Tee fitting
from stock sender to block gallery hole (its pipe thread tapered and the thread is NOT ISO metric, (only part on car not)its BSPT, omg Imperial threads!)
this adapter magic is on my hard to find parts page
http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#Sender

( British STD tapered Pipe threads !)

they sell better gauges now.
with programmable lower limit warning lamps.
set it a you like.
and means you can not use the TEE nor original sender,


i use these rules
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/oil-spec95.JPG

above 10c get ride of the light oil
in fact, id run 10w-30 (or 40) year round , say not in say Siberia.

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the pump seals on 2 planes , 2 surfaces (rear and pan side)
and i tricky to get it leak free.
has special steel gasket (do not use the china clones with paper)
and seals at the pan seal , the pan IS RTV sealed and pressure tested day1
this bottom seal , is best done pan off, or will be hard to get a leak free pump.
see page 14

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/96-98%2016...motor1.pdf

[kthnos]

1.10w-30 it is then.
2.i get 8.6l/100km (and thats with short 3-4km trips within the city all the time). engine barely gets to operating temp with those 3-4km trips. i guess it will go much better on the highway /longer trips.
3.how about the pressure switch i talked about? its possible or not?
4.i guess the gauge option is better, BUT as far as i can see, it looks like you had connected yours at the switch`s place? what happens without the pressure switch? permanent oil lamp blinking?

[fixkick]

the stock switch is a (sorry too late, engine is now damaged) it can be as low as 3psi for the lamp to glow. crazy low.
id use 10.

ok i see now, a higher spec. switch, sure vast switches are sold but need to be BSPT threads
i have a BSPT to NPT adapter "bloody British to Grengo" adaptor. LOL ! NPT is usa tapered threads. National pipe threads
but you'd need to just find the switch and matching adapter if need be.
the lamp glows when the switch closes, it's just like wiring of a flashlight (Torch, in UK)
the switch grounds the lamp at 3psi.
id keep it there, or get higher switch.
some gauges have a light and some buzzer.
there is no engine kill in the ECU, for this switch,its just a warning lamp.

cheers

[fixkick]

and the obvious
get a smog test
the nox will not pass if either the TWC cat is dead, or EGR is dead. (twc , is three way catalyst)
takes both to pass this.
the exhaust sniff test.

here (when done ) using the loaded IM240 rollers, smog test. (looks like a dyno test)
they do this under load, at 25mph, and if the egr weak or dead, it fails bam , )

[kthnos]

yeah, thats what i was thinking about. a 10psi switch would be fine then? (with the correct adapter) ?
does the pump even get lower than 10psi at any case? (e.g. idling?)

[fixkick]

the switches are profuse.
10mm clean cut ISO metric,
10mm tapered
NPT
British pipe thread.

the size goes back to long long a ago most car co. in japan copied the very old 1960s MG's engines. from Britain.
including this switch .
and then made zillions of them and year by year, just had do use them.....
on one car bought a BSPT to npt adaptor
then use NPT TEE and to that, a npt Idiot light switch at 3 or 10 psi.
then from there NPT to gauge, our gauges here are all NPT
but cant guess what you guys uses.

id adapt yours to BSPT. and
it sure is a pain
and for sure you dont want to cross thread the aluminum block fine, BSPT threads. (easy if the thread pitch is wrong)

[fixkick]

our runs this snake (egr mono valve snake feed pipe)
part #9
its made of stainless steel.

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/96P-16L-EGR-vac.JPG

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suzuki has many egr systems world wide,
i have the books
but my pages covers only usa.
i really cant wax smarter lacking your country or better market code on car.

---

my photo is usa, market 03 and 33(calif)

[kthnos]

our runs this snake (egr mono valve snake feed pipe)
part #9
its made of stainless steel.

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/96P-16L-EGR-vac.JPG

---

suzuki has many egr systems world wide,
i have the books
but my pages covers only usa.
i really cant wax smarter lacking your country or better market code on car.

---

my photo is usa, market 03 and 33(calif)

   

[kthnos]

by the way...
'bob the oil guy' insists that 5w oil is far better choice than 10w oil (for better lubrication at startup),regardless of what manufacturers suggested at their manuals (FSM) 10-15years ago.
so, what gives?
fixkick, your input please?

and also, one more question:
i flushed the coolant (5 times damn it) with clean water, then refilled with fresh coolant. problem is, i still have a little bit of the old fluorescent green stuff inside the system. new coolant is G12 pink. old was green generic (who knows? filled by PO). i know mixing coolants is a bad idea, but you think it will hurt anything i leave it like it is now for some time?