Need some help

[fixkick]

that pitman arm will be hard to remove easy liking the tool to pull it;.
it is put on super powerfully, imagine what happens if it fell off driving,
yeah, no good.

google pit-man arm removers.

[sina27]

SO - 

I just removed the stat to replace it. The lip depth is 4mm, so Im going to use the felpro rubber o-ring. Since my tracker is a 1992 1.6L 8 valve, is the 4mm lip OEM? Or are there some 8v with 4mm lip and some 8v with 1mm lip?

[fixkick]

SO - 

I just removed the stat to replace it. The lip depth is 4mm, so Im going to use the felpro rubber o-ring.
Since my tracker is a 1992 1.6L 8 valve, is the 4mm lip OEM?  (4mm means newer revised manifold , nothing more)
Or are there some 8v with 4mm lip and some 8v with 1mm lip? (both 8v and 16v were both revised to 4mm by VIN date /Serials)

1992  is the first year of the changes, 1mm  to 4mm
and is complex by vin  numbers end serial  number,  each car class was  cut in  (updated ) based on VIN code.  
all makers of stat sell both stat /seal kits. , or 1 stat and 2 seals
some sell only  an naked stat, and seal is extra.
each 3rd part maker sells them as they wont

suzuki OEM even changed their rules, selling the kit,  and at one time 2 seals in the box wit stat.
GM oem , i do not know, but did sell both, as they did upgrade , in the same CAMI factory but only using there own VIN date rules, (sn/)

1- mm lasted from 1989 to 1992 and even 1993, ( they always make more engines than cars so the stock of  engines needed to be all used up first) production works that way.
that is why VIN 's are so important on all cars made for parts buys.  ALL are.
and know that  the newer car year is built on July 1.  way before, Jan1 next year, so they can as they say fill the production pipe line and have all new cars before  Mid December.
see that too to effects parts,???

the parts that changed  is Manifold part number and 1 seal.
there reason was told that it make the factory engine  assembly step way faster ,  no sealants needed.

[sina27]

Hey Kick. 
Thanks for all the help. 

UPDATE:

• I changed out the ECT sensor, thermostat.
  
• Car is still lacking a CAT, and there is still a large hole in exhaust pipe right before muffler (will be fixed soon)
  
• The tracker still idles weird - 2000-3000 rpm when starting it cold, and sometimes it "surges", like it shoots to 3000 then back down to 2500 quickly and repetitively. 
  
• The idle stays high for at least 7 minutes until it starts going down 
  
• Once warmed up, it idles at ~500 rpm. 
  
• No smoke during idle. I see smoke when giving it gas. 
  

You mentioned that I should diagnose the FPR next. Before I do this, I was wondering if you can look at my ISC hose routing and confirm it is routed correctly. The ISC looks new on my car, so I assume the previous owner recently changed it, and I want to make sure it got installed correctly. 

Looking and you ISC photo, your image shows the bottom two plugs are coolant, and the top plug to "air". 
I took photos of my routing, and I labeled them. Can you confirm the routing is correct? 

Here are my images of the ISC:

https://imgur.com/a/VMxCtrs

• First photo shows the top ISC nipple connecting to the intake air, shown in red (#1)
  
• Second and third photo shows the bottom two ISC nipples (in green and blue)
  
• Third photo is supplement
  

So in your photo you show that the bottom two hoses attached to ISC are coolant? The routing I have in my photos shows that one of these hoses goes into the base of the intake manifold (green # 2), and the other hose goes onto the top of the intake  / throttle body (shown blue #3). 
Is this correct? If the bottom two hoses are coolant, why is one of them being routed back on top of the intake? (see last photo). 

If the ISC routing seems correct, do you think my issue could be related to the DASHPOT?? I can look into the FPR or DASHPOT and possibly replace them. 

Thank you so much. This has been a headache and hopefully I can solve all this soon.

[fixkick]

Hey Kick. 
Thanks for all the help. 

UPDATE:

• I changed out the ECT sensor, thermostat.
  
• Car is still lacking a CAT, and there is still a large hole in exhaust pipe right before muffler (will be fixed soon)
  
• The tracker still idles weird - 2000-3000 rpm when starting it cold, and sometimes it "surges", like it shoots to 3000 then back down to 2500 quickly and repetitively. 
  
• The idle stays high for at least 7 minutes until it starts going down 
  
• Once warmed up, it idles at ~500 rpm. 
  
• No smoke during idle. I see smoke when giving it gas. 
  

You mentioned that I should diagnose the FPR next. Before I do this, I was wondering if you can look at my ISC hose routing and confirm it is routed correctly. The ISC looks new on my car, so I assume the previous owner recently changed it, and I want to make sure it got installed correctly. 

Looking and you ISC photo, your image shows the bottom two plugs are coolant, and the top plug to "air". 
I took photos of my routing, and I labeled them. Can you confirm the routing is correct? 

Here are my images of the ISC:

https://imgur.com/a/VMxCtrs

• First photo shows the top ISC nipple connecting to the intake air, shown in red (#1)
  
• Second and third photo shows the bottom two ISC nipples (in green and blue)
  
• Third photo is supplement
  

So in your photo you show that the bottom two hoses attached to ISC are coolant? The routing I have in my photos shows that one of these hoses goes into the base of the intake manifold (green # 2), and the other hose goes onto the top of the intake  / throttle body (shown blue #3). 
Is this correct? If the bottom two hoses are coolant, why is one of them being routed back on top of the intake? (see last photo). 

If the ISC routing seems correct, do you think my issue could be related to the DASHPOT?? I can look into the FPR or DASHPOT and possibly replace them. 

Thank you so much. This has been a headache and hopefully I can solve all this soon.

there are 3 independent idle control systems, ISC (electric ECU control) but water heated for faster TB warm up) IAC 100% thermal controlled and DP the dash pot.
the ECU controls the dash pot 100% via  VSV see connected the, DP. and runs only for about 15second max (less hot or tad more if colder)
the hood sticker shows vacuum path not water path, so long ago I made this 2007.

as , you scan see on my ISC page the top pipe is Air AND YES GOES  to the top air horn huge  PIPE to Air cleaner. this is how ISC gets clean filtered air.
the bottom to are water and  no worry here on which one in what order as it is only a simple water path inside the IAC.









below shows 2 things, what is connected and direction of coolant flow. as you can see the TB is the source of this flow, and the IAC is the exit path to ISC and then goes to the pump suction port manifold top rear. the 2 coolant hose are not polarized at all.  (IN/OUT) just connect them it works.
One more secret, the IAC/ISC water path flows even with Thermostat closed cold, this is called BYPASS and this cheater path allows the thermostat to warm faster (due to said flow)
note how block/head gets the first coolest coolant  via pump pump output; and hottest water hits IAC first,







for this act water coolant begins here
water exits intake MAN. and goes into hold H2O