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its over $200 device. (motivates me big time)
those nipples come off, (screws ) but is risky if the seals inside are wrecked (oh so easy)
try vinegar soaks, (its an acid)
finer stiffer wire (piano strings, guitar strings)
concrete etch (phosphoric acid) and brick etch,. home depot.
whats there red rust, or calcium (chock like) ? my guess, chock
but if last guy, put in a new mix of old green antifreeze and new. it turns to Gell this Gell, bakes to glue then like tar.
lots of ways to mess up coolant.... for sure lack of flushes.
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03-25-2016, 01:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2016, 01:27 PM by SrgBog.)
Just finished reading about the limpmode... But I did not understand what to do to get out from the limpmode:/ The symptoms of my car is very similar and its very good chance that my car have the limpmode - what to do now ? ...To find the bad sensor - to fix it - and then the ECU will get out from that mode?
(03-25-2016, 11:30 AM)fixkick Wrote: its over $200 device. (motivates me big time)
those nipples come off, (screws ) but is risky if the seals inside are wrecked (oh so easy)
try vinegar soaks, (its an acid)
finer stiffer wire (piano strings, guitar strings)
concrete etch (phosphoric acid) and brick etch,. home depot.
whats there red rust, or calcium (chock like) ? my guess, chock
but if last guy, put in a new mix of old green antifreeze and new. it turns to Gell this Gell, bakes to glue then like tar.
lots of ways to mess up coolant.... for sure lack of flushes.
The coolant hoses are so cloged that NO AIR AT ALL passes when I blew into it as hard as I can.
I tried to pull of the coolant nipples - they doesn't move at all...
Yesterday I put it in vinegar for about 20 hours and tried to clean it with any wire/stick that I found at my house... There was a tiny progress - a very tiny amount of air started to pass thru...
So today I build this electrolysis thing and now the ISC sits inside it (looks like having fun  ) - hope it will help... Will update later...
Made in Japan Suzuki Vitara 1997, 4x4, 16 valves, MPI EFI, 4 speed, Automatic, 1.6L, 5 door, from Israel, VIN: JSAETD01VV1200XXX, market: E54
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03-25-2016, 10:17 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2016, 10:26 PM by fixkick.)
Quote:Just finished reading about the limpmode... But I did not understand what to do to get out from the limpmode:/ The symptoms of my car is very similar and its very good chance that my car have the limpmode - what to do now ? ...To find the bad sensor - to fix it - and then the ECU will get out from that mode?
Did you insert the diagnostic jumper, and get code 12's" if not many DLC errors , cause ECU to go to limphome mode.
its just a paper clip.
here it is again. click this, and see this simple test... find the DLC connector on your car, under hood.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
code 12, key on,
code 12 , running
code 12 driving..
if not Limphome can be ACTIVE and IN FORCE.
also , make sure the 02 sensor is fresh, not 20 years old. but more newer. say less that 5 years old.
if not the 02 bad can make fueling rates, go way rich, and run bad, misfire and turn spark tips black. etc.... all bad....
The DLC, diag link connector .
can be in 4 places, on cars world wide, (here our 97 is in place3) changed each generation for fun, and games. (sarc)
place 1 , fuse box jumper fuse = DIAG mode.
Place 2, older, just in front of main battery,
place 3, just to rear of right head light shell. (drivers right)
place 4, right next to the left strut tower. drivers left.
my page dedicated to this . is here
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
finding the DLC.
Quote:The coolant hoses (nipples?) are so clogged that NO AIR AT ALL passes when I blew into it as hard as I can.
I tried to pull of the coolant nipples - they doesn't move at all... (those rust, and breaking those nipple screws will be bad news as will seals inside)
Yesterday I put it in vinegar for about 20 hours and tried to clean it with any wire/stick that I found at my house...
There was a tiny progress - a very tiny amount of air started to pass thru...
So today I build this electrolysis thing and now the ISC sits inside it (looks like having fun ) - hope it will help... Will update later... GOOD !
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03-26-2016, 06:41 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-26-2016, 07:23 AM by SrgBog.)
Me against the totaly (100%) clogged ISC coolant hoses - UPDATE:
So after 24 hours in vinegar and cleaning the ISC coolant hoses with any stick that could use for the job - there was tiny progress of 5% max.
I put the ISC into electrolisys - after 24 hours there was no significant progress.
So I took a sink cleaner based on soda caustic and put as much as I could into the clogged hoses and filled hot water in the hoses
(I did not wanted to dip the ISC into the sink cleaner mixture because I thought the chimical reaction could damege the Seat rubber ring of the ISC air path).
After 2 attempts - no significan progress - so I took a piece of dourable plactic and started to stick it on the hoses to clean the inside...
After it I took the ISC to a garden water hose and connected the garden water hose to one of the ISC coolant hoses and turned the water aaaaand I SAW A WATER GOING OUT FROM THE OTHER SIDE HOSE !!!! I increase the water and it cleaned the clog for good !
Did not made"The 1 Cent Code reader" check...
I thought that to make that check the engine must be in runnung condition...
And since the ISC was and the TB was off - I couldn't run the engine...
As I did the electrolisys to the ISC I made it also to the IAC...
Many rust and dirt came off from the IAC during the electrolisys - the condition of the IAC hoses condition making me worry about the IAC
condition inside... Hope the IAC is good.
Next step is to get the TB and the ISC back to the engine and do "The 1 Cent Code reader" test...
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
Made in Japan Suzuki Vitara 1997, 4x4, 16 valves, MPI EFI, 4 speed, Automatic, 1.6L, 5 door, from Israel, VIN: JSAETD01VV1200XXX, market: E54
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unlike many other cars of the era
this car, key codes are stored, codes
then you start engine, and its live codes,
the drive, and same.
all harmless, , unlike some cars.
the blowing in the hose in IAC work, free path of air there?
good news, the blasted it good, that ISC, it will not let water pass and to the next device, in the chain of 3.
all 3 must flow water. or IAC goes nuts , followed fast with ECU , confused. (it's lil brain , does so easy before, obd2)
you Sr, are on TRACK !
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Yes, There is free air path between the IAC hoses.
I don't know how the IAC work and how its mechanism looks inside but maybe it is
good idea to fill there vinegar to make an extra claning to IAC from inside ?
Anyway,
Tomorrow I will make the gasket for the TB
And I will be ready to install the parts back on.
Made in Japan Suzuki Vitara 1997, 4x4, 16 valves, MPI EFI, 4 speed, Automatic, 1.6L, 5 door, from Israel, VIN: JSAETD01VV1200XXX, market: E54
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03-26-2016, 10:38 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-26-2016, 10:38 AM by fixkick.)
usually when the IAC is unbolted from bottom of TB, the 6mm bolts snap
the IAC is a wax pellet thermal device
id not geat acid in the air side,
only clean the water lines, same we way as iSC
here is one destroyed ,, to show guts
not same engine, this is TBI but is same method of thermal valve.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_11.html
here it is removed, a real 16v IAC, if comes off easy, its more easy to clean water path, see red rust stain below.
when the water hits 150f this air valves closes, but is open, cold.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_29.html
(03-26-2016, 10:19 AM)SrgBog Wrote:
Yes, There is free air path between the IAC hoses.
I don't know how the IAC work and how its mechanism looks inside but maybe it is
good idea to fill there vinegar to make an extra claning to IAC from inside ?
Anyway,
Tomorrow I will make the gasket for the TB
And I will be ready to install the parts back on.
wax expands fast hot... uses this principle of operation.
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Thank you!
Seems like there is not much parts in IAC to be stuck...
When I just removed the TB I cleaned it (TB) and the IAC with a carb cleaner ,
And after that I made an electrolisys to it... - could it damage the wax you think ?
Made in Japan Suzuki Vitara 1997, 4x4, 16 valves, MPI EFI, 4 speed, Automatic, 1.6L, 5 door, from Israel, VIN: JSAETD01VV1200XXX, market: E54
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(03-26-2016, 10:52 AM)SrgBog Wrote: Thank you!
Seems like there is not much parts in IAC to be stuck... (dont take much, but can fail 2 ways, cant get hot, or stuck)
the 2 physical fails are, wax part internal death and it's, piston stick
or water path fails. (cant flow , cant get hot fail)
I/d not use acid in the air path.
ive not a clue as to this electrolysis, process.. can be any thing from tap water to some type of base or acid, what is the liquid contents.?
the liquid is and electrolyte even table salt.
http://examples.yourdictionary.com/examp...lytes.html
When I just removed the TB I cleaned it (TB) and the IAC with a carb cleaner ,
And after that I made an electrolysis to it... - could it damage the wax you think ?
a battery
2 wires
and a liquid of some kind, what kind?
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03-27-2016, 03:24 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-27-2016, 03:29 AM by SrgBog.)
The good news is that today I put the part back on and it seem sthat all work good - seems like the idle problem is solved !
 The bad news is that the low power problem and the strange sound from the low part of the engine specially on uphill (sound that reminds an old beatle car whlie driving) - is still exists...
I looked for the OBD1 connectors for the check and found those 3:
Didn't make the DTC check because didn't know which one of the switches to use
and what to do with them exactly ... seems like need to use the one of the first two...
Going to read more about it...
Any tips will be very appreciated 
According to the videos on youtube the electrolisys can do magic with removing rust...
Here is 2 videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qi8qIxK4IlA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_fAauPKH4o
There is 2 options to make the liquid:
1. (my option) Water + Cleaning soda
2. Water + distilled vinegar + salt
Made in Japan Suzuki Vitara 1997, 4x4, 16 valves, MPI EFI, 4 speed, Automatic, 1.6L, 5 door, from Israel, VIN: JSAETD01VV1200XXX, market: E54
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