Greetings..and..Transmission

[GeoHacker]

I wasn't lied to on Amazon, picked up a Timken release bearing , $9.95 ("you saved $93.00" it said) …Closeout? $17 with shipping. Now the release bearing in the kit is a no-name and feels really nice, but Timken for the win, if it's the right one as shown by the number (part checker however said nooooo)

Took a risk anyway.

Release bearing came, is a Koyo in Timken box. Nice. Now selling at $37.49 from the previous $9.95, good gamble.

Here's the bad disc:



Here's the spring in question:



Here's my flywheel removal helper tool, it spans 2 of the 6 bolts (offset) and locks against something so you can un-torque and re-torgue the flywheel bolt puppies (untested). $5 piece of drilled Home Depot metal.



Now have sealant, everything to complete. Weather has gone to heck from too hot to work back to rain and cool. Hope clears up on install-day.

[fixkick]

yes that rubber plug will leak fast. and what a mess too.
sure, cant see why a RTV fill up can't work. if done carefully. and clean.
it might stay there like that for ever, unlike the falling out plugs with only 1211 caulk.

sounds like too much fun, hope it stays warm there,
'
oops my neighbor just killed a 6 foot, copper dead... going to change all my rules now.
was helping other neighbor, fix bad erosion from clogged, french drain,, hands in deep hole in the dark... not smart.

[GeoHacker]

yes that rubber plug will leak fast. and what a mess too.
sure, cant see why a RTV fill up can't work. if done carefully. and clean.
it might stay there like that for ever, unlike the falling out plugs with only 1211 caulk.

sounds like too much fun, hope it stays warm there,
'
oops my neighbor just killed a 6 foot, copper dead... going to change all my rules now.
was helping other neighbor, fix bad erosion from clogged, french drain,, hands in deep hole in the dark... not smart.

Copperhead, no fun! Only worries I've had working under my car are from the leaves collecting under it, and maybe a surprise guest like that enjoying them too.

Don't like them, glad to avoid. The antivenin alone can bankrupt a person.

Plugs: going to first see if there's something at Lowes magic hardware box section (all kinds of esoteric parts they carry) that might suffice, otherwise, big plug of high temp RTV it will be. Pretty sure the loss of my original plugs cost me my oil level to begin with, so definitely fixing up. Am missing the one near the reverse switch, and another elsewhere.

Will be installing the countershaft middle tonight, only worry there really is that the original middle bearing there (the one with the 2 bolt retainer) is different from the original setup. It's now a one-piece replacement (had to remove the race) which means once in place, will have to pound 2 into the case holders. Just worry since it will apply stresses to the outside of the bearings as they push into their respective positions in the case.

Used a rubber mallet last time, and plastic dead blow hammer, worked nice. Last hurdle, I hope.

[fixkick]

lowes and HDepot, and ACE.
all have this drawer with plugs. rubber and cork, id bet one of the rubbers fit. glued in. even cut down.

yes, there are 2 rear, cluster bearings the old 2 part needle, and not the updated basic ball bearing.
the new part does fit easy.

do you have the real fsm on just trans, i have it.
if you dont have it send me pm, message, with real email and can mail it to you.

[GeoHacker]

lowes and HDepot, and ACE.
all have this drawer with plugs. rubber and cork, id bet one of the rubbers fit. glued in. even cut down.

yes, there are 2 rear, cluster bearings the old 2 part needle, and not the updated basic ball bearing.
the new part does fit easy.

do you have the real fsm on just trans, i have it.
if you dont have it send me pm, message, with real email and can mail it to you.

Thanks for the offer.

I have the FSM chapters for my kind and the type 2, but not much help at this point other than steps, because main problem is no real press, or special tools. Tried my shaft cooling trick, with hot bearing but no joy this time, had to beat middling countershaft bearing on carefully with rubber mallet and dead blow and wood block combos. I think I have it seated now.

I really wish I had that special tool for the two-fer front and middling-smack in (into the holes cut out for them). Can get one, but another 4 days waiting if I do. Might though since the hurricane rain is likely "helping" with my work. (5-10")

The Lowes plugs were kind of oversized, I should have gotten and cut down, didn't think to. Got some grommets which will fit inside, and can RTV the hole (option 1). Will look elsewhere tomorrow.

[GeoHacker]

I really wish I had that special tool for the two-fer front and middling-smack in (into the holes cut out for them).

Tractor Supply to the rescue for next to nothing…perfect 1" hole really thick wide washer, good for the needed flat uniform whack, race to race.

Countershaft is almost in, just have to seat that rear one the rest of the way now as it pushes in the rest of the front, and get things just right per the manual (washer just touching)

Weather is saying 12 to 24 inches of rain are coming next 3 days (3 to 6 per day?). Thanks hurricane.

r

[fixkick]

ouch 24" , time for tree house.

[GeoHacker]

ouch 24" , time for tree house.

My car will be an ark, but they'll have to arrive 4 x 4.

Do you recall when you installed your countershaft where that front bearing is supposed to end up, exactly?

The manual says with the ring "just touching" the face. Which means given the thickness, that the bearing needs to be inset some, to make the slot smaller?

Intuitively, one thinks to drive it just so to where the ring slot's back (rear) is perfectly aligned with the case, leaving the front well above. But that would mean the ring is able to be well away from the face then given it's not a super tight fit in that circlip zone on the bearing (large outer ring)

As usual, when hitting it in, it might have gone in too far forward in the back, after not budging at all, decides to move easy suddenly.

I don't have any reference pictures of the front of my countershaft area I don't think.

Example:

[GeoHacker]

I went with #2, tiny inset, left it flush against the case.

Applied Loctite 660 to the 5th gear before mounting, it was just too loose for comfort. Given the float it had, it's now more "in round" than before, only the tiniest bit of imperfect circular rotation versus 0.25mm to 0.5 mm flop-slop it had before. The grand ($12) experiment.

One more bearing to get on once it dries, 2 seals to apply to spacer case, then time to torque her back together.

Rain wasn't as bad as predicted here in NC, but trashed SC pretty bad.

r

[fixkick]

mine was #2 flash with case, id guess the snap ring is just for that, to set distance, right.


yes, those floods in sc, (one years rain in a day, ouch)

crossing fingers for you on 5 gear not whining...