Engine Harness Connections??

[fixkick]

nice having a shifter that is tight. easy to shift !
no starts
got spark? using a test spark plug? and check timing if way off the cam belt slipped'
if sparks good and the cam is not retarded, all g16s run on test fuel, spray fuel in a can. all do
and tells all is well engine/spark.
if that works attach fuel last ,
next? is the DLC (94-8v) next to battery diag pins jumpred , causing 12s go flash ? cranking for 5 full seconded, not 41 ,no 42
there are 3 inputs to ecu that cut fuel. 2 fo 3 are reported, and tps ground wire broken/cut . that also cuts fuel 100%
The ecu cuts fuel if it thinks(sic) for any reason the human driver is doing WOT, cranking, called secret unflood mode....(1/2 joking)

then 12vdc to pump (pink to ground)wire.
and last this.
is this a 2 door, if yes all love to fail the pump g402 hidden behind left rear tail light , per my pump page,
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg

you can hear the pump spin for 3 second each key on
some are very quiet , take of gas cap, listen at neck to be sure(2 person test) some brands loud others nice and quiet.

the gauge is 20 bucks


test fuel is next. run now,even 3 seconds? sound nice? next

[eop0088]

I have spark using a test spark plug. I checked timing the best I could without a running motor and it's where it should be. I've checked all the wiring throughout the vehicle previously and repaired everything as needed. How could I depressurize the fuel system to replace the fuel filter and pump without it running? Guessing use spray fuel to get it running and depressurize the way that was mentioned on your website?

[fixkick]

in most shops (with 12vdc at pump is yours) and test fuel runs car, this is only takes 5min work at air cleaner lid off.
or this car
not running (depressure)
CAR out side,
parked
large rag
goggle on(PROTECT EYES FROM SQUIRTS)
open the small m6 (10mm-hex screw) test port rear of fuel filter. on filter banjo bolt
crack it. a tad.
catch all fuel. then hang rag on tree with nail let air dry, in safe place, benzene is very toxic

if pump really is dead, there will be no pressure to depressurize.

i never assume things work, i do the simple tests, assumptions kill forward progress.
that what test fuel dues, is....
allows you to assume engines ok and spark, zero guessing..... see?

if true a above, 12vdc to pump is next cranking, 11v min. can be tested at ecu fuel pump relay, at tail light , at center bumper and at pump.
if that is good, then drop tank.
no fun wasting all day and a huge bath in fuel only to find 1 of 4 pink wires, rusty or the g402 ground open

did the ear at filler neck test pass? sound? key on 3times. 2 person tests....

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this car is infamous at 0v to pump
6v to pump.
FI fuse blown.

i alway check volts across pump pins... and win like 1/2 the time and save many long hours of labor 1/2 time.

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2 tests
test fuel, works
12vdc to pump cranking or the 3 second rule
2 tests
and win
or
fuel pressure out of spec. 34 to 41 psi is SPEC, no deviation allowed (range)
keyon or running. same. the variances are altitude (high mountain= less pressure)
what is volts now. and pressure wrong, (consider low voltage= low pressure=motor turns slower, pump spins slower)
then (why)
fuel pressure too high is FPR bad (many are this old) i always amazed seeing working this old. am.

if fuel pressure is too low FPR bad or pump weak (12v on pump not 8v) keep in mind cranking voltage sags to 11v, so it be near there ,almost.

the pump test called shunt (dead headed) test in the FSM and my pump page
hits like 55psi or more
if not pump is weak or low battery voltage to pump motor
a voltmeter ends the guess.

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html

the next test is leak down test
if the are leaks, and it leaks down the pressure goes to zero key off
and will take hard cranking to get pressure to spec.
see?
that is why do the 6 tests in ReD IS BEST
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html

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NOW IMAGINE ONE MORE FAILURE
FPR STUCK OPEN FUEL PRESSURE AT 10PSI. (INJECTOR CAN NOT WORK THERE)

ALL FUEL IS BYPASSED BACK TO TANK.
THAT IS WHY I ALWAYS DO ALL 6 RED TESTS. OR MORE IF I SUSPECT INJECTOR LEAKAGE OR FLOODING

[eop0088]

So I tested for spark again and I'm not getting spark at all on any cylinder or from the ignition coil to distributor. The ignition coil is new and I tested for resistance and it meets the specs for primary and secondary. I tested the voltage on the plug to the ignition coil and it has power (meets what's required but can't remember the exact reading). I'm not sure what else could be causing a no spark. I looked over your page for cranks but won't start but there's a lot of information on there and I'm on a bit on a time limit now. I don't have a jumper to connect to hook up and I've called every auto store near me and no one has one. So if there's a way to make one at home walk me through it if it's necessary to see what's going on now. As always, I appreciate all the help.

[fixkick]

hello
insert the DLC diagnostic jumper, (paper clip work) DLC is next to main battery,
and crank , 5seconds max. release key, not off.
and will tell you why its not making spark !
code 42 or code 41
it will
42 is dead CMP cam sender
41, means the ignitor dead, or dead coil primary

im sure i have now spark page
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/no-spa...CK_:_89-95

cheers

So I tested for spark again and I'm not getting spark at all on any cylinder or from the ignition coil to distributor. The ignition coil is new and I tested for resistance and it meets the specs for primary and secondary. I tested the voltage on the plug to the ignition coil and it has power (meets what's required but can't remember the exact reading). I'm not sure what else could be causing a no spark. I looked over your page for cranks but won't start but there's a lot of information on there and I'm on a bit on a time limit now.
I don't have a jumper to connect to hook up and I've called every auto store near me and no one has one (what is this?)
. So if there's a way to make one at home walk me through it if it's necessary to see what's going on now. As always, I appreciate all the help.

what jump is that.?

not sure what you want to make, sorry

good evening...

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the 2 fuses are IG-coil and FI
both must be good. or no spark ,nor fuel.
CEL lamp must glow key on. or ECU is dead. or fuse. bad.
then spark
if no spark diag mode is the truth.

94-tbi

[eop0088]

I tried using the DLC and my check engine light just stays on. Doesn't flash. Hooked up DLC with paper clip, cranked for no more than 5 seconds and the engine light just stayed lit. Not sure if I'm missing something or if that means something else is wrong.

[fixkick]

ok, on my main page
there is a page called blinks
all federal sidekicks and tracker (NEVER VITara's or CALIF)
have the nag switch
we remove them
or fllip the lever
the lamp must flash something, stuck on is NAG
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/cel-index.html

the nag is the "over mileage federal, cat test waring lamp" for 50k service, or as the fsm says, (boring)
i grab the 3 wire connector on rear of speedo and yank them out (conn has 4 pins 3 wires)
or slide the switch, located in 3 places to add to fun and covered on my nag page.
cheers