Engine Harness Connections??

[eop0088]

I jumped B11 to B12 then to the starter line and I don't have the hunting idle when I press the gas but I had it running for about 4 minutes today and it started doing it again. The MIL lights work on the dash but the illumination part still doesn't work and I'm getting the proper voltage through the wire. I also just found out that my temp gauge isn't working. I have a new engine temp sensor I just haven't installed it yet but will tomorrow. Not sure if that'll fix it but I already had the part so I figured I would install it anyway since I have it. I'm guessing to fix the hunting idle I would need the M/T ECU and I also have a high idle at 1800rmp.

[fixkick]

vsig: USA 1994 G16A 5spd 4wd 2 door has A/C (dead) , and with wrong A/T ECU. (marked US-AT).

the factory , cluster coolant temp. gauge uses the 1 wire sensor, not the 2 wire, ECT.
i'd get the CEL (MIL) working first. so the ECU can talk to you, be best.
1800 RPM hot or cold.?
does the engine reach 180f or more and hold steady there, ? (using any of 3 ways, ECT ohms, pyro gun, or cant hold hand on top rad hose (ouch, hand flies off test)
the ECT is (2wire) will read 300 ohms (about ) when the coolant is at 180F. ( any ohmmeetr works, got one?) this is best way.....2birds 1 stone.

the MIL (CEL) working means, it glows key on, goes out running, and then flashes 12s on demand, 1,2,3 tests.. all matter.
illum. part, the back ground lamps are run of PARK circuit. and a dimmer pot on dash , is knob fully CW for bright max>?

now idle the most complex.
first as always coolant temp,,, does your thermostat have the nice rubber ring? matching the 4mm deep well intake manifold pit for same (this is upgraded intake man used then)
wax side down, and bleed hole uphill ,forward, on the thermostat (3 things to get wrong here)

b11 and b11 go to 12vdc cranking, this allows easy startups.
A6 must not be at ground voltage 0v. or idle up is enabled.
A2 must not be 12vdc or same. idle up. (BTW idle up speed, hot is 1000 RPM)

see page 1,2,3,4 here> the FSM page showing all ECU pin voltages? this must be checked any time hot idle fails, and coolant is at 180F.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-8v.html

do the paperclip test yet? CEL diagnostic mode? (CEL/MIL)??? codes 12s?

here are some tests:
1: all fuses good. for sure IG-coil, FI and Dome. (engine dies if 1st 2 are bad)
2: key on, CEL lamp glows (aka, MIL)
3tart engine, check battery voltage near 13.3 to 15v? if lower, Alternator has issues.
4: engine warms, and reaches 180f, if not the thermostat is bad. (or missing that magic rubber ring..)???
if missing you get this.
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/Fr...r-cab.html

5: ok, engine finally reaches 180F, so now the ECT reads 300 ohms? (key off, pull ect plug, ohm out the sensor now.)
ok 300 ohms the ECU reads correctly (now the ECU has hope of working right) the ECT has 2 wires, never 1.

6: what was idle RPM cold.? (first start, cold RPM)??
7: what is idle RPM hot? (coolant must be at 180f or above, hot or idle test are useless.... )
8:vacuum hoses not leaking (RPM high) vacuum leaks,
for idle too high, my 1 page covers that. and lots more, idle is the last thing to work right on all EFI controlled engines.
9: throttle cable needs to be slack, 10mm is spec on that, and is seen on my page below....
10: throttle valve, TV must be closed 100% if not fix that now. On a hot 8v engine, only the ISC and TB bleed screw , pass air, and nothing else.
iSC is (electric)
11: the IAC must be closed hot, but if engine is not hot, then the IAC opens. so... 180F is top check, IAC closes at 150F so...(thermal valve)
12: on a hot engine, pinching the IAC air line (2 water 1 air) must cause RPM drop to about 400 rpm or stalls. does it.?


http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html

The A/t ECU should be ok, i ran one for 1 full year, just for kicks. (had 2 ECU one A/t and one M/t)
but my wiring was perfect, with working clutch switch.

info overload., but lists are best, see how far you get. saves time...

[eop0088]

Fixed the idle issue. Everything seems to be running a lot better now. Seems the previous owner made some adjustments to the TPS and dash-pot that weren't necessary causing the high idle. Fixed those and idles perfectly with no hunting idle. Everything electrical was reading at the proper levels and there were no vacuum leaks. Also fixed the temp gauge issue. Didn't end up installing the new engine temp sensor since I found the wire for the temp gauge had come loose in the connector so I replaced the connector and it works properly again. Probably knocked it loose tracing wires for the starting issue earlier. Still no dash lights but I haven't had time to look into that yet. Since everything was running fine I wanted to back it up in my garage a little more and found out there's an issue with the clutch that wasn't there last time the car ran. I can put it into any gear with the car running and without the clutch pedal depressed. I haven't touched anything other than replacing the timing cover, water pump, front axle, front wheel bearings, and the main engine wiring harness. The clutch worked fine last time I drove it and it's been sitting since so I'm wondering what could have happened with that. I'm going to take a better look when I have a second person here to lend a hand but any suggestions are helpful.

[fixkick]

great, finding those PO , misadjustments.
the clutch cable is seized. they like to do that.
it wears or frays deep in side, and sticks , keeping the clutch engaged and slipping.
you will find the bottom end free play gone. my guess.

progress ! nice job.
happy holidays to you and all.

[eop0088]

I replaced the clutch cable and I can still move the shifter into any gear with and without the vehicle running. I can feel that it goes into gear but the car won't move. RPM just raise and nothing happens. I can take my foot completely off the clutch pedal with no stalling. I'm assuming this is something internal and not the cable, although the other cable did need to be replaced it didn't fix what was going on. I'm pretty unfamiliar with manual transmissions so i'm not sure what the issue could be. Don't want to start taking everything apart if I don't have to.

[fixkick]

Im confused, but the car won't move,, we can work that....

if you remove the cable from the bottom end (bell lever rod tip released)
and can start the car in any gear.
means that the clutch is burned up. but....... but.....

---

with the caveat
that the shift'er really is in gear. , must be proven.
as you may not know the shift'er tip has a crummy plastic tip piece.
and when broken or now dust will... (be like all loose as hell)
it's near impossible to get in to gear like this.... common failure.
a $5 fix.
see my trans pages. 5sp for parts, and views
part 27 here

http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#5sp-shift

---

more.
when the car was new, or 27new. he shift'er has near zero play in gear, just the center bar of the H pattern has play.! only.
so if you a ton of play there, in a gear, then bingo.

the top of the shift'er base, has a cap, this cap can pop off. and now will not shift.
the shift'er lever can be removed and you can shift it by hand and large screw driver. fiddling part 30 in the drawing..
proving beyond any question, the trans is in Gear. now...
do not condemn any 5sp box or its clutch until these checks are done.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!.

[eop0088]

The shifter does have a lot of play even when in gear feels like it's almost in neutral until you push it up or down to the neutral position. It feels like it goes into every gear but like you said it could still not actually be in gear because of that plastic piece. Is there an easy way to get to where that plastic piece is so I can see if it's broken and if it is replace it?

[fixkick]

it's not really hard.
depends on if some own went there before.?
removing the center console.
the car new, has these silly plastic rivets on the sides, that i had to remove seats, the first time., to get them off.
but the console does come off. once off , the rest is cake walk.

and then the 2 bolts for the shifter base collar. its spring loaded, this collar, that is the only tricky part, ( just push it down and off the 2 sides bolts)
my pages shows doing all this.

the console off.
shows a boot, there, this boot keeps deadly carbon monoxide out of cab....
it comes off with 4 simple screws.
once that is off, the main retaining collar and stick come Right off.
if the plastic, wore out , not broke up(random) then shifting gets progressively more hard, you missed shifts! and got worse! in time.

but if it wore out, it can get so thin, it can shatter, and then zero shifting in 1day . full bore slop.... useless movements.

here is my page, called new bush

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-reb...l#new-bush

start at
"can be pain to get out"

[fixkick]

the car wont move (5speed)
I assumed clutch pedal free play is at spec... for sure after new cable.
with the lower cable disconnected
i move that bell lever by hand, it has huge distances of travel there.
the throw out bearing slides on the transmission snout, sleeve for same,
sometimes i can feel this and find its jamming.... up.
if the gear box really is in , gear, for sure, no guessing,.
then the clutch is stuck disengaged.
gross clutch slip is a bad clutch, disc hit rivets, or disintegrated, pressure plate, total failure, or throw out bearing stuck on its sleeve , or disc splines jammped on spline of pilot shaft. (usually and oil soaked clutch binds up cranking, but at fast RPM hard loads can slip)
but the shift'er needs to be checked carefully.
that plastic part loves to fail.. and some are seen as totally gone , now just dust, in the muck there.
the lever when new, has no play at all in gear.
well just the most tiny amount, new.
if not, true now, that plastic part IS BAD.

[eop0088]

Bought the new plastic part and sloppy shifting is gone. New issue though. Cranks but won't start. The ignition coil, spark plugs (properly gapped), and plug wires are brand new. New fuel pump relay. New battery. Getting correct resistance and voltage to the fuel relay. I think my fuel pump is bad but I haven't done any testing for that yet. I'm getting spark to the distributor and spark plugs. I'm going to replace the fuel pump tomorrow but if there's anything else I could be missing please share.