ECU Component identification

[capt1njohn]

Is there a diagram of all the components on an ECU board that tells the part number of each device?
Hi guys new member and just figured out how to start new Thread. I have a 1994 Tracker Hardtop 4wc  5 speed1.6L 8V. Its been sitting for 3 years. Put gas in it the other day and a fresh battery. Tried to start it but it wouldn't start. Tried Starting Fluid but nothing. Checked spark and had none. Checked Distributer and pick up in distributer. Cap and rotor good Pickup looked good but dont know how to test. Checked coil resistance and it didn't match what the Haynes manual said. I also did the test with the 3 volts on the ignitor and it didn't check out either. One wire is hot going to the coil and one is hot going to the ignitor. Bought new Coil and ignitor and installed but still wont start.  I read the ECU can cause no spark problems. I also read the Rubicon Caps are junk and will fail. Took ECU out and caps look good but ceramic Ball or bead Diode had pretty bad corrosion at the body of the diode on each side. Tried to take it out of the circuit to test but one leg broke off. I cant seem to be able to figure out what that diode is as there is no numbers on it and there is very little information about ceramic ball or bead Diodes on the internet. The diode has a brown stripe at one end and it has 3 green dots placed evenly around the circumference of the diode. Can anyone help me out with this? Does anyone have an idea what amp and voltage that is?

[fixkick]

stick to one post please on ECU and dead spark , doing this above only means help hard. 1 car, 1 problem or 10 in one post best, just you.
in my main page, you go to fixkick.com, the type ECU bad in the search box and see this.
i did this in 2007 , so im rusty a bit but not too bad.
Ii think only ive done that, photos of dead ECU and why and all, even tells what transitor outputs do what and maker of transistor to on 8v, 56Bxxx ecu.

please go back here, with my long answer there.

https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1-6-8v?...5#pid13485

[fixkick]

i provided answers on the the other page.

[fixkick]

i answered in length here.

https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-1-6-8v?...6#pid13496


wrongly and hijacked.
but there it is , too lazy to copy it here me...

[fixkick]

what you did wrong,
not checking fuses first.
not seeing if  the CEL lamp is dead. IT MUST NOT BE DEAD.
or not using the DLC connector to jumper clip it and get code 12  and not 41, nor 42, or both DTC codes.
the ECU may be dead.
it happens when caps are dead or worse, if worse the acid leaks out and eats up copper tracers, at all levels some do and burn up (ask in carbon)

your spare  diode might work (polarity correct) min to minus , plus to plus.
your ignitor is ok, most are , testing it is tricky see other post link above.

this is DOOMED. the acid wrecked the FR4 PCB board material, then made it conduct electrons and burned to a crisp, acid loose is never good.
if you look you see the carbon cloud from smoke damage, NEVER A GOOD SIGN that. is hopeless.... (now only for spare parts ECU)

I can not see your  ECU, like this.

[fixkick]

if the cam belt snaps, spark ends NOW. (cmp dead)
if the cam belt slips spark timing will way the H3LL off, so far off spark fails at the distrib cap but not at the COIL tower HV lug. see? see why?

if the rotor in distributor is dead, so be spark,
if the rotor is off time spark will (can/may) fail at the cap but not the COIL tower lug. see?

[fixkick]

the ecu in fact tells you if CMP dead or Ignitor is dead it sure will
let it ,by cranking for 5 full seconds, 20 crankshaft turns which ever is more. (never less)
the ECU self tests this,always, it is called a monitor today, the monitor never sleeps, listen to it. it tells you code 41 or 42, and bingo ON TRACK.

the monitor never sleeps if ECU has power, fuses and main relay good. if this is good the CEL works, use the CEL.

[fixkick]

is the CEL lamp on this farm kick missing or dead, or car has no cluster at all, I cannot see the car, so can only guess what is there and not.
some of these cars are a mix of  parts now, Frankenkicks)


always :
1: check fuses (and ohm meter 0  ohms is perfect, not infinity.
2: CEL works. glows. key on. (if not fuse igCOIL IS BLOWN, or ecu dead, or lamp to Cell is bad) bad main relay too.
3: and DIAG jumped shows 12.
4: cranked 5 full seconds release key code 12 and never 41 or 42, or any other non 12 allowed.
5: check spark only at the top center tower lug socket if the Spark induction coil. only here first.
6: if rotor does not spin the cam belt is bad, code 41 and 42. no spark and no fuel, loss of spark any time ECU sees that fuel is cut 100% by design,(no fuel fires)
this is a list of best evidence on this are (dead engine,)  (what I do is assume it is all bad and prove otherwise)
there is more but the above sets the compass in the correct path for more simple tests. 

HINT 1: ecu THIS OLD SHORT OUT CAPS AND iG_COIL FUSE BLOWS. EVEN FLYIning down a road, it a bumb and bam cap shorts now fuse blows,
that is why recaping these old cars ECU is #1 in my book.

the mighty GE #18 CEL  lamp in all its glory.  14vdc, 0.040 amps (tiny to protect ECU) 1-3/4 wedge based bulb tiny .

source;          https://www.bulbtown.com/18_Miniature_Bu..._p/b18.htm
new for you;.  the lamp must not be missing first.  Gallery working whoo hoooo

[fixkick]

zero carbon allowed, on any PCB, zero. (printed circuit board)
carbon black is burning and is ACid leaks every time and wrecks many ECU. (minor can be saved above example no)

[fixkick]

one more dead dog. (from deep in the ezgallery,)