1.6 8v

[capt1njohn]

Hi guys new member and cant figure out how to start new Thread. I have a 1994 Tracker Hardtop 4wc 1.6L 8V. Its been sitting for 3 years. Put gas in it the other day and a fresh battery. Tried to start it but it wouldn't start. Tried Starting Fluid but nothing. Checked spark and had none. Checked Distributer and pick up in distributer. Cap and rotor good Pickup looked good but dont know how to test. Checked coil resistance and it didn't match what the Haynes manual said. I also did the test with the 3 volts on the ignitor and it didn't check out either. One wire is hot going to the coil and one is hot going to the ignitor. Bought new Coil and ignitor and installed but still wont start. Took ECU out and caps look good but ceramic Ball or bead Diode had pretty bad corrosion at the body of the diode on each side. Tried to take it out of the circuit to test but one leg broke off. I cant seem to be able to figure out what that diode is as there is no numbers on it and there is very little information about ceramic ball or bead Diodes on the internet. The diode has a brown stripe at one end and it has 3 green dots placed evenly around the circumference of the diode. Can anyone help me out with this?

[fixkick]

Hi guys new member and cant figure out how to start new Thread. I have a 1994 Tracker Hardtop 4wc 1.6L 8V. Its been sitting for 3 years. Put gas in it the other day and a fresh battery. Tried to start it but it wouldn't start. Tried Starting Fluid but nothing. Checked spark and had none. Checked Distributer and pick up in distributer. Cap and rotor good Pickup looked good but dont know how to test. Checked coil resistance and it didn't match what the Haynes manual said. I also did the test with the 3 volts on the ignitor and it didn't check out either. One wire is hot going to the coil and one is hot going to the ignitor. Bought new Coil and ignitor and installed but still wont start. Took ECU out and caps look good but ceramic Ball or bead Diode had pretty bad corrosion at the body of the diode on each side. Tried to take it out of the circuit to test but one leg broke off. I cant seem to be able to figure out what that diode is as there is no numbers on it and there is very little information about ceramic ball or bead Diodes on the internet. The diode has a brown stripe at one end and it has 3 green dots placed evenly around the circumference of the diode. Can anyone help me out with this?

in order this.
fuses good, FI and IG_coil under knee fuse box. (and dome fuse for ECU memory retention)
key on CEL lamp must  glow, and if not lamp is bad or ECU dead.
next if CEL glows, insert the DIagjumper at DLC connector next to battery, with jumper in place the CEL lamp flashes code 12 if happy or if not other codes
code 41 and 42 codes are lost spark.

that diode is  reverse polarity protection diode, I think.  a 5watt zener..is that sized.
if removed all power is lost I think , no schematics on any ECU exist for suzuki.
if a CAP leaks acid it eats things up,

that old diode may be marked then, as 5-6L2

that means 5.6volt zener. (that is a very rare and obscure Japanese part, from Mitsubishi. ) as in not sold now.
the Jedec substitute might be 1N5339 (5w)  or dash A or Dash B in order of increasing accuracy.  a very easy part to buy, JEDEC is  a mil  standard too.
https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Di...aoZ1z0z63x

The coil must spark if the ingitor is hot wired with a resistor per the FSM  ,. MUST or the igniter is bad or coil or wires related.
so do not  ever hot wire any ignitor with solid (or standed) copper wire or blow up the igniter you will. use the resistor. ok? at 12v,  3v is FSM way.
but suzuki did here, ( resistor way is safe 12vdc  with out use an AAA battery best or 3v coin cell,  I use  150 ohm resistor just to be safe at 12v . on the base pin.
https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...age_5.html
 
2 to 3vdc on the gate pin turns it on. i even scoped this pin running.
the internal resistor keeps coil from burning up, if ignitor is unplugged key on (oops) so is natural pull down there to be, 0vdc safe.

The ECU must get the CMP signal in the base of the Distrib. called a cam sensor or CMP
if the ecu fails to see that signal. DTC code 42 means CMP is dead. must crank for 5 seconds or 20 crank turns, per FSM.

if 42 is not SET, then 41 can hit,  41 means the igniter is dead. (same 5 second rule)  trust the ECu to tell you which end is dead.  CMP or Ignitor.
the coil signal (- stud) https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...ge_14.html




41 is coil +_ignitor wires and suppressor test,  and also means the Brown tachometer wire is dead for sure. code 41.
suppressor looks like this.

1. fuses good
   
2. Cel lamp not dead.
   
3. CEL flashes 12 on demand and after cranking for 5 full seconds, key released and not off
   
4. DTC codes?
   
5. test the ignitor per FSM.
   
6. the small device called , IG suppress must not fall off its socket or all spark ends. and code 41
   
7. CMP must be working that means all grounds wires to the distributor not bad or the CMP will be dead,
   

this is what I think is inside the ignitor, for sure a transistor yes.  this is how I test mine, using 150 ohm resistor but factory battery  way is good to 3v.
the 630 is deep inside the device. the dotted resistor is  may testing it on bench.


the wiring is like this.
91-95 8v see my red arrows, for in or out

[fixkick]

you are talking D105 below right, the huge diode,  T5Z2 (5.2volt zener)     it is a protection diode I think, for battery reversal or nuts , with jumper cables backwards.

that fat black cap just to the 8pm , loves to leak acid (boric) and wreck thinks there, if look above left see C111 leaking and its damage,? ! super comon  and can even make the ECU not repairable at all, if the damage goes to lower layers. for sure.

[fixkick]

hers is your answer from the other post.
about CPU IDs
CPU dead

https://fixkick.com/ecu

click slide show here.

https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/index.html

ah it is not the huge diode at all, it is 3watt size unknown, Id say 3watt diode 100v. PIV. might work. ask for PN if not savvy for parts at mouser.com

that is D113
https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_3.html

all the damaged ECU ive seen are there. (some)

https://fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-8v.html

see this page for the 8v ECU , all pinouts all names and all transistor that blow out and what to do.

https://fixkick.com/ECU/transistors.html


there is no sechematic of this ECU , or any BOM, but I do have lots of information on the 8v
56Bxx.
for sure all outputs.
as you know inputs never fail just those outputs.
inputs are clamped and with protection resistors, safe and sound. (no lightning sure)

[fixkick]

there is no BOM (bill of materials) for this ECU, not at all. and diodes come in vast types, not just rectifiers or zeners.
that diode, try a 6amp 100v . normal diode silicon, or 400v is more easy to find.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Motoro...SwiuRcp4mm


try 1N54xx series diode
1N5401K (3amp)

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...RLG/919918

6amp ( lead diameter may be to large) I do not know correct lead size (OD)
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...TP/1636148

[fixkick]

when you see ceramic , that means top quality high temp diode.
I think it is overkill and
it also means the diode is 100% hermetic, (passes steam test !) mil grade and all that.

[capt1njohn]

when you see ceramic  , that means top quality high temp diode.
I think it is overkill and
it also means the diode is 100% hermetic, (passes steam test !) mil grade and all that.

Thanks for all your input. I do have a few questions about some abbreviations you were using as explaining what to look for first. You said fuses good, FI and IG coil under knee fuse box.  What does FI and IG stand for? The other abbreviation you used several times was FSM "the FSM way" What does FSM stand for? On the ignitor test shorting the gate to +12dvc through a  150 Ohm resistor, You said Pull ECU conn. Are you talking about the main ECU connector or the ignitor connector that goes back to the ECU? Also where is the MAIN Relay and does it look any different than any of the other ice cube relays that are being used?

So you think a regular black 3amp diode would do the trick for the D113 Ceramic Bead diode? I found a regular black Diode that is a 10 amp 600v and the pins are .010 smaller than the one that's in the board now so it will fit the board. Think that will work? The only reason I was hesitant to replace it with that kind , was the fact that the other one was ceramic and I figured it must get real hot. I've had this tracker for 22 years now and for the last 13 years its been a farm vehicle. So up until the last 3 years I have run it enough to warm it up about twice a year. I think ive gone through 10 gal of gas in it in the last 10 years. Its always started right up every time. It ran out of gas 3 years ago and I pushed it to where it sits right now. I new it was out of gas. I figured if I put 5 gals of gas in it the girl would start bright back up. None of the caps looked bad in the ECU. The only bad thing I saw in it was the D113 Diode had corrosion (like from a battery) on both sides of the body where the wires come out of. When I got it out of the board I tested it and it checks out good but I cant very well stick the leg back on it. Thanks again for all your help. Ive 

[fixkick]

when you see ceramic  , that means top quality high temp diode.
I think it is overkill and
it also means the diode is 100% hermetic, (passes steam test !) mil grade and all that.

Thanks for all your input. I do have a few questions about some abbreviations you were using as explaining what to look for first. You said fuses good, FI and IG coil under knee fuse box.  What does FI and IG stand for? The other abbreviation you used several times was FSM "the FSM way" What does FSM stand for? On the ignitor test shorting the gate to +12dvc through a  150 Ohm resistor, You said Pull ECU conn. Are you talking about the main ECU connector or the ignitor connector that goes back to the ECU? Also where is the MAIN Relay and does it look any different than any of the other ice cube relays that are being used?

So you think a regular black 3amp diode would do the trick for the D113 Ceramic Bead diode? I found a regular black Diode that is a 10 amp 600v and the pins are .010 smaller than the one that's in the board now so it will fit the board. Think that will work? The only reason I was hesitant to replace it with that kind , was the fact that the other one was ceramic and I figured it must get real hot. I've had this tracker for 22 years now and for the last 13 years its been a farm vehicle. So up until the last 3 years I have run it enough to warm it up about twice a year. I think ive gone through 10 gal of gas in it in the last 10 years. Its always started right up every time. It ran out of gas 3 years ago and I pushed it to where it sits right now. I new it was out of gas. I figured if I put 5 gals of gas in it the girl would start bright back up. None of the caps looked bad in the ECU. The only bad thing I saw in it was the D113 Diode had corrosion (like from a battery) on both sides of the body where the wires come out of. When I got it out of the board I tested it and it checks out good but I cant very well stick the leg back on it. Thanks again for all your help. Ive 

this dumb forum , just lost my 1hour typed out response. dang.

[fixkick]

questions lots.
IG_coil means ignition coil power fuse, if blown or missing or cracked, spark ends.
FI= fuel injection fuse, run the FI relay what powers the fuel pump if blow pump is dead.
why not tell me if the CEL glows key on, check engine light(CEL) in the cluster.?
it MUST or the ECU is dead or the #18 GE lamp in said cluster is blown out,
CEL glowing means ECU is not DEAD, for sure CAP leaks do that endless, kills the ECU dead or causes it  to go mad with vary noisy 5vdc power inside , making the ECU reboot over and over, and interupting spark and fuel.
we know most rubicon black large caps fail where, most did, in place in car not in a box in a warehouse .
Cap temps can hit 200f on hot summer day and after long years, they bake dry or blow acid everwhere.
boric acid is inside, and eats up the copper traces or even diodes .

yes use the diode you found, no need for ceramic,
what does FSM mean , factory service manual as seen in post #1 of this forum a sticky post #1
the DLC jumper is here, 4 years of evolution, (diagnsice link connector) next to  the main battery.
the DLC had a nice rubber cap new, 4 or 6pin
https://fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
to use it all you need is working CEL lamp and a paper clip.

the fuel pump is fuel cooled and lubricated, do not run it dry (keyon) or burn up the pump rotor you will.
on most EFI cars (electronic fuel injected )cars.

links, lost now added again.

schematic shows where the parts are and IG-coil fuse, FI, and DOME , all 3 are needed to be good. first.
we check fuses first on all cars made. for lost of any electrical or electronic event.(for sure dead)
next is CEL lamp , it must glow keyon, and flash code 12 on demand does it? if not see first link above.

I bet your ignitor's (both are good)  testing it is not fun or easy, nor is the unplugged igniter actual plug   valid test in the FSM book. not at all now.
they used and analog meter (50000 ohms) back then, as  very very weak load (needle meter) a lame test that.
today we have DMM meters, digital and is no load at all or, or 10,000,000 ohms and is fully useless as a load. ( normal load is 10 ohms in fact)
the correct test for any igniter is the in situ test. (on car all parts but ECU A12)
leave ignitor alone on fire wall , in situ.
then connect new spark plug to center tower of the spark coil HV. spark shell grounded. to engine.
then unplug the ECU white (cream) connector, only not the green.
A12 is the ignitor pin seen in my link above schematics.

then with 3volt DC coin cell battery jumper the A12 in and ground,
battery minus log to ground
battery plus to A12, ECU. (ecu not connected here)
you jump the  connector and never the ECU actual. see?
then hold jumper there and coil charges.
then release jumper and coil FIRE< (induction and 10,000volts to the spark plug happens now)
do not test at the distributor a it can be dead, due to cam belt slipped snapped.

the ECU will tell you both are dead, if you asked it.
1: keyon see CEL glow. it must or fix that first.
2: then crank dead engine. (for 5 full seconds)
3: release the key not off.
4: insert diagnostic paper clip jumper to DLC next to battery.
5: key is still on see code 41 or 42 falsh out, l2 is normal goodhappy

the above is how to test spark on this car, using new spark plug, gapped to .028inches not .045 as NGK makes them. at the coin and not at the distributor cap, for now.
cheers , notepad rules.

PS: answering more question
there are no icecube relays in any made in japan car,
the 2 relays are just below the ECU, clipped to the relay bracket, the pink wired one is FI. other is main.
as see here off my schematics page, fixkick.com.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/92-95-dash-parts.JPG

PS 2 your found diode should work, but in fact there is no BOM on any ECU here, (bill of materials) and vast diode types exits.
and ceramic is not really needed here, but good CAPS are,  I bet they are all dead. leaked out.

[fixkick]

PS3, this must not be loose corroded or missing or spark is dead, and 4wd car tachmeter dead too.

the IG_coil spark suppressor must not be missing, if is missing.
ECU will tell you , it is with code. 41 DTC , diagnostic trouble code 41, means tachmeter signal is dead, means suppressor fell off harness.
There are these causes of 41,(see why I beg for DLC jumper clip tests>??)_
the 41 code means, coil bad, ignitor bad, ECU bad, wires bad , suppressor bad. ECU bad would be bad A12 pin transistor blow up.(rare as hell)
it means the brown wire is dead.

https://fixkick.com/ECU/DTC-errors/DTC-jtgh.html