1998 tracker 1.9 4x4 clutch will not disengage.

[Perry]

I was driving today and I noticed the shifting got really bad out of nowhere. When I came to stop, I was unable to put the vehicle back in 1st gear to start moving again (or any gear, for that matter). The car goes into all gears just fine with engine off so it has to be clutch related. 

I looked into it and the clutch cable has partially broken (some strands broke, others still intact). I replaced the cable with a spare a friend hand hoping for an easy fix and even with the new cable it will not go into any gear with the engine running. The clutch pedal is also extremely stiff, compared to normal but I can still press it with my foot. I also have the cable adjusted at the transmission end tightened almost as far as it can go. 

I have confirmed the clutch arm is moving (1 inch rule), see video here: https://streamable.com/8afw26

I’m assuming the next step is pull the trans and inspect for some type of internal failure. I really, really hoped this would not be case but I’m not sure what else to check. Is there anything else I should be looking into before I pull the trans.

[fixkick]

I was driving today and I noticed the shifting got really bad out of nowhere. When I came to stop, I was unable to put the vehicle back in 1st gear to start moving again (or any gear, for that matter). The car goes into all gears just fine with engine off so it has to be clutch related. 

I looked into it and the clutch cable has partially broken (some strands broke, others still intact). I replaced the cable with a spare a friend hand hoping for an easy fix and even with the new cable it will not go into any gear with the engine running. The clutch pedal is also extremely stiff, compared to normal but I can still press it with my foot. I also have the cable adjusted at the transmission end tightened almost as far as it can go. 

I have confirmed the clutch arm is moving (1 inch rule), see video here: https://streamable.com/8afw26

I’m assuming the next step is pull the trans and inspect for some type of internal failure. I really, really hoped this would not be case but I’m not sure what else to check. Is there anything else I should be looking into before I pull the trans.

if no slack in the cable, (called clutch cable free play) is set to zero (as a test only)
then the  bottom end bell lever end moves 1 inch, and clutch does not disengage the clutch is bad.
G16 engine, (1.9 not sure what that is me)
very wise you doing a new cable first,  as they fail easiest.
sorry for your clutch failure I am, good luck to you.

make sure cable is ok, and pedal welds not broken, or other damage first, end to end, outside the bell housing, is best practices.  careful inspections,
then 1 inch moment rule. (a 2 person test)

[Perry]

I was driving today and I noticed the shifting got really bad out of nowhere. When I came to stop, I was unable to put the vehicle back in 1st gear to start moving again (or any gear, for that matter). The car goes into all gears just fine with engine off so it has to be clutch related. 

I looked into it and the clutch cable has partially broken (some strands broke, others still intact). I replaced the cable with a spare a friend hand hoping for an easy fix and even with the new cable it will not go into any gear with the engine running. The clutch pedal is also extremely stiff, compared to normal but I can still press it with my foot. I also have the cable adjusted at the transmission end tightened almost as far as it can go. 

I have confirmed the clutch arm is moving (1 inch rule), see video here: https://streamable.com/8afw26

I’m assuming the next step is pull the trans and inspect for some type of internal failure. I really, really hoped this would not be case but I’m not sure what else to check. Is there anything else I should be looking into before I pull the trans.

if no slack in the cable, (called clutch cable free play) is set to zero (as a test only)
then the  bottom end bell lever end moves 1 inch, and clutch does not disengage the clutch is bad.
G16 engine, (1.9 not sure what that is me)
very wise you doing a new cable first,  as they fail easiest.
sorry for your clutch failure I am, good luck to you.

make sure cable is ok, and pedal welds not broken, or other damage first, end to end, outside the bell housing, is best practices.  careful inspections,
then 1 inch moment rule. (a 2 person test)

1.9 was a typo. It’s a 1.6 g16. Clutch is now only 5k miles or so on it. New cable and clutch arm is moving 1 inch (are video) clutch pedal is very stiff. I am going to have to pull trans to find out issues. I am thinking possibly a groove is worn into the trans input shaft jammed it engaged? I’ve read this can happen. Will update!

[fixkick]

I was driving today and I noticed the shifting got really bad out of nowhere. When I came to stop, I was unable to put the vehicle back in 1st gear to start moving again (or any gear, for that matter). The car goes into all gears just fine with engine off so it has to be clutch related. 

I looked into it and the clutch cable has partially broken (some strands broke, others still intact). I replaced the cable with a spare a friend hand hoping for an easy fix and even with the new cable it will not go into any gear with the engine running. The clutch pedal is also extremely stiff, compared to normal but I can still press it with my foot. I also have the cable adjusted at the transmission end tightened almost as far as it can go. 

I have confirmed the clutch arm is moving (1 inch rule), see video here: https://streamable.com/8afw26

I’m assuming the next step is pull the trans and inspect for some type of internal failure. I really, really hoped this would not be case but I’m not sure what else to check. Is there anything else I should be looking into before I pull the trans.

if no slack in the cable, (called clutch cable free play) is set to zero (as a test only)
then the  bottom end bell lever end moves 1 inch, and clutch does not disengage the clutch is bad.
G16 engine, (1.9 not sure what that is me)
very wise you doing a new cable first,  as they fail easiest.
sorry for your clutch failure I am, good luck to you.

make sure cable is ok, and pedal welds not broken, or other damage first, end to end, outside the bell housing, is best practices.  careful inspections,
then 1 inch moment rule. (a 2 person test)

1.9 was a typo. It’s a 1.6 g16. Clutch is now only 5k miles or so on it. New cable and clutch arm is moving 1 inch (are video) clutch pedal is very stiff. I am going to have to pull trans to find out issues. I am thinking possibly a groove is worn into the trans input shaft jammed it engaged? I’ve read this can happen. Will update!

lots of causes,.  not in cable or dash pedals. lots.

what brand clutch surely not ebay no name clutches with garbage for PP or throw out bearings.
1 inch rule fails, means the throw out moved the correct distance, means.
1: throw-out bearing burned up and collapsed inside, doomed
2: PP diaprham cracks anywhere, or the burned up bearing above wrecked the PP fingers heat treating and are now annealed (soft and useless)
3: Bad flywheel face surface (would look, like moon surface or worse)  trans boxes syncros HATE any form or kind of clutch drag of any kind. and Reverse x10 worse for drag.
4: pilot bearing in fly face is bad that is drag or worse , doomed.
5:cracked PP face, pressure plate face)
6: yes the transmission front pilot shaft , spline can be a wreck this old and parts very hard to find to fix that, (discontinued part at suzuki)

try an exidy clutch? try top brand names even from a walk in store and not ebay ever,

saw one clutch that looks like was made in basement in china (and was) very crude work,   if not so sad would be funny to see,  
try rockauto.com?

do not use the 8valve engine clutch it is not the same as the 16v, buy with full carefulness.
do that and know that your cars engine is vin code 6 not U.  (6=16valves and 15 more HP)
GM has its own vin code for you engine unlike stinky suzuki.

the larger diameter is it.

the rock listing is for 16v only I think, here in USA,  8v ended in 1995 year, so...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/geo,...h+kit,1993

good luck with your clutch. and sorry for all this pain, pulling it a 10 hours labor, at least. 4WD

use quality jacks stands, or better,  be safe.
never trust your life to any jack hydraulic seal ever. (most are from china now)

[fixkick]

on that spline, one can put a very thin coating of brake grease there (this grease is super high temp grease black coded) $1 packets at autostore check out counter (hint)
that keeps spline from rusting and sticking and making clutch action not stiff,.

the bell clutch lever to the T.out bearing shaft has 2 plastic bushings that can fail this old.
but is simple to see at inspections.

the 2 man , 1inch rule fails, zero slack, is may answers.

[Perry]

on that  spline, one can put a very thin coating of brake grease there (this grease is super high temp grease black coded) $1 packets at autostore check out counter (hint)
that keeps spline from rusting and sticking  and making clutch action not stiff,.

the bell clutch lever to the T.out bearing shaft has 2 plastic bushings that can fail this old.
but is simple to see at inspections.

the 2 man , 1inch rule fails, zero slack, is may answers.

the clutch is a beck/arnley full clutch kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000CAXWT4?tag=...th=1&psc=1 link here, I DID NOT pay this much for it lol.. Flywheel was also brand new, same make as clutch kit. No slack and 1 inch rule is passed. I will post updates when I remove tonight. Luckily I have a 2 post hydraulic lift and a trans jack so that makes it a little less of a pain for me.

[Perry]

I pulled the transmission tonight. And one of my worst fears came to life.... there is nothing obviously wrong with any of the internal components. Clutch, Pressure plate, flywheel, fork, throw out bearing, etc. all appear to be normal in my eyes. No missing parts, strange wear, etc. The trans input shaft is perfect as well, so there goes that theory. 

What are some ideas on what I should be checking for closer considering my clutch arm was moving the throw out bearing properly, but my pedal was very stiff and clutch was noT disengaging.

[Perry]

How can I test or inspect the presure plate to see if it’s working correctly? I’m just at a loss here everything seems fine!! 

The only other thing that was out of place was the flywheel pilot bearing was not seated when I removed the trans, but I think that may be because it came out with the transmission when I pulled that back.

[fixkick]

trans out. checks.
this is near impossible if all looks ok
let me stated that that is a diaphram spring clutch.
testing that is not ever easy or possible. ,NO CRACKS seen no funny bent fingers below.
if the springs overheat or the chutch is china carp and not heat treated correctly those can look ok. but are not.
the Tout bearing pushes those PP spring fingers there, are all fingers sitting on the same level and flat?
let me say this, if it was  mine
a new clutch would be put in,  using $50 cheaper clutch only invites doing 10 more hours of hard labor, nobody wants.

using only top grade non racing clutches here for 16v only 8.5" is think is 16v

use a strong light look for anything on that disk or PP or TOout, for any oddness of any kind,
if it looks OK ,  I think it is bad
the 1 inch rule means 2 man test, no one person can do that, ever one at clutch pedal\
and one at the bottom lever nut (wing nut on mine)
and no slack in the cable just for this test. no free play,  and with no free play , the clutch even goes more disengages.
then when driver pushes pedal (they say pushing now, 1,2,3; 1 means first movement) or have them whistle as their foot starts to move, !!! or
you then see the lever below move no delay it moves 1 to 1 with the drivers foot
and when the foot pedal hits floor the lever below end tip moved 1 fully inch,
if the cars reverse fails now, just now tested that is clutch drag.

the car may have wrong clutch there or just junk grade .
oops forget one more error seen very rare.


that lever on the boot of bell right side. has index marks,  that must be correct or the clutch will be queer and non linear.
lever 11 marks. , parts missing?  23 to 26 anchors?
The disk must not be put on BACKWARDs most good clutches will not let you do that, but some can. and is super  bad that. (disk hub is longer in the rear



see this, see that titty mark it is not for kicks and grins.  and that nut not loose, making one thing it moved a full inch.

[fixkick]

the most common failures are , this car. (on topic)
cable bad or wrong cable,. 2door and 4door and 8v and 16v are not the same, buy carefully (used cables love to jam inside deep in cable ,unseen ever)
cracked clutch pedal parts, caused by bad cable and powerful drivers foot. 100lbs on foot force, nets 600lbs force to clutch lever. 6:1 ratio on avg.
stripped top of pedal shaft spline. caused by above. (600lbs it is doomed)
cracked firewall at the cable port, on said fire wall, caused by above. (if cable jams force here is unlimited, driver is gorilla on speed, the uncle bob effect?)
missing parts. outside bell , any part missing can be trouble. some are big trouble. #18?
bad bell clutch rod lever bushings 7 &10
and last bad clutch (whole thing)

i sure hope part 18 is not missing, the head of not must not ever hit metal on sides. preventing adjustments correct

i just looked at your video, the part ID #18 above is missing, right? hope not,