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1998 tracker 4 sp crank pulley wobble
#1
Hello,

I have a 98 tracker 4 spd 4x4. When I purchased the vehicle it had a slight crank pulley wobble, over time it has gotten worse. I have purchased a new crank gear, pulley, key and bolt. Now that it's off I notice the crank snout and keyway are worn. The timing gear is loose on the snout, compared to the spare crank I have sitting here. So I installed the new parts and checked the runout at the face of the new pulley and its currently 0.0015". All new parts are OEM. Does anyone have the runout spec at the crank snout and crank pulley? 

Thank you
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#2
(06-24-2020, 09:37 AM)Behringer Wrote: Hello,

I have a 98 tracker 4 spd 4x4. When I purchased the vehicle it had a slight crank pulley wobble, over time it has gotten worse. I have purchased a new crank gear, pulley, key and bolt. Now that it's off I notice the crank snout and keyway are worn. The timing gear is loose on the snout, compared to the spare crank I have sitting here. So I installed the new parts and checked the runout at the face of the new pulley and its currently 0.0015". All new parts are OEM. Does anyone have the runout spec at the crank snout and crank pulley? 

Thank you


Sorry the runout is 0.015".
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#3
(06-24-2020, 09:37 AM)Behringer Wrote: Hello,

I have a 98 tracker 4 spd 4x4. When I purchased the vehicle it had a slight crank pulley wobble, over time it has gotten worse. I have purchased a new crank gear, pulley, key and bolt. Now that it's off I notice the crank snout and keyway are worn. The timing gear is loose on the snout, compared to the spare crank I have sitting here. So I installed the new parts and checked the runout at the face of the new pulley and its currently 0.0015". All new parts are OEM. Does anyone have the runout spec at the crank snout and crank pulley? 

Thank you
runout.
define that, please
the crank has end play, adjustments and play.
the crank bearings clearance radial  play spec. (is in the FSM , see that book)?
but you say the word pulley , whY? with or with out belts mounted?

the pulley will not be loose at all nor will the snout cog at all be loose in any X/Y/Z plane,  end play not counting that of crank end play.

the pulley is rubber laminated,  and
that means if the belt tension is wrong, (too tight ) the pulley will RUN out as in wobble. cure is correct bent tension.

the pulley can also be bent is it;?


sorry to hear the PO never read the 1996 TSB warning page on crank bolt tension set to 94ft/lbs and retro active in all manuals back to 1989,
all new manuals 97 + are right. for bolt.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#4
Thanks for your response. I didn't take into account the crank end play. So the measurement isn't useful. The reason I did measure it is because the crank timing gear is loose on the x/y/z plane (not torqued down) in comparison to the spare crank I have. I'm wondering if its possible that since it wasn't torqued down properly the crank snub has been ground down? For what its worth measurement was done without belts attached.
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#5
(06-24-2020, 11:03 AM)Behringer Wrote: Thanks for your response. I didn't take into account the crank end play. So the measurement isn't useful. The reason I did measure it is because the crank timing gear is loose on the x/y/z plane (not torqued down) in comparison to the spare crank I have. I'm wondering if its possible that since it wasn't torqued down properly the crank snub has been ground down? For what its worth measurement was done without belts attached.
this is what kills dead many G16, vast failed. 
the new cog on a new crank snout is almost and interference fit,
in fact I used a puller  to remove,  3 engine  cogs here.
it is a snug fit out of the factory new,

the key there only is for getting the TDC timing right at first assembly, the key does nothing else.
only the proper torque holds it from walking on the snout,  damaged 5 ways, 
the key slot (an 2 key) the shaft surface 3 and the rear face gets torn up 4 and cog bore wrecked.5

see photos in my link of horrors.  House of horrors cog.
 why is easy fail is here:
#1 cause A/T transmission that , makes folks forget to lock the crank, so they can torque it. (5sp use 5th gear)
#2 not reading the TSB,


https://fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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#6
So I read on your page to put some loctite 271 around the snout since it is worn. Do you have any tricks to make sure the crank timing gear is centered on the shaft? 

I'm also convinced the reason for the pulley wobble is the gear not being centered. Maybe I'm missing something?
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#7
Update:

So I put loctite 263 (couldn't get 271 tonight) on snout then put timing gear on. I then proceeded to place shims between snout and gear checking for concentricy. It is now within  0.001" and torqued down to 94 ft/lbs. Since I'm this far ill pull the head and verify true TDC since keyway isn't perfect. Probably close to head gasket change time anyway. Thanks for all the help
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#8
(06-24-2020, 03:00 PM)Behringer Wrote: Update:

So I put loctite 263 (couldn't get 271 tonight) on snout then put timing gear on. I then proceeded to place shims between snout and gear checking for concentricy. It is now within  0.001" and torqued down to 94 ft/lbs. Since I'm this far ill pull the head and verify true TDC since keyway isn't perfect. Probably close to head gasket change time anyway. Thanks for all the help
I will cross fingers to you can get that snugged up tight.
some have done so,  using loctite, (it cures with no air )
if super clean , it can be strong.

good luck to you and that Trackick..
http://www.fixkick.com
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