1998 sidekick sport auto - no key start - push button start

[thebanjoman]

it's been a while since I responded, too many things got in the way but I have been working on the 98 Sport since January

Replacing the neutral safety switch and ripping out the stupid push button switch solved the key on start issues no problem.

Onto the engine running. 

The Sport has 241,000 miles on the odometer.  A noisy timing chain, a compression check (110-140 PSI in various cyls) and oil leaks from the timing cover, valve cover and rear main seal told me it wasn't worth trying to get this motor running.  The radiator was also plugged and cracked.  When I did get it got it running by coaxing it there was coolant seepage around the bottom tank.

I dropped in a new motor, a J23 out of an Aerio with 73,000 miles (because I got a deal instead of a working J18) ,  I did a long block swap and swapped on J18 externals and oil pickup and pan.  I fixed an ISC leak around the gasket and cleaned everything up and she's running well. 

The engine is running a little hotter than I would like, even with a V6 Style Vitara radiator (thicker core)  I probably need to pull the carquest thermostat that I put in and just get a Stant and be done with it. I got impatient getting it running and just went up the street and should have waited to get a Stant.

There's still a few body patches (floor in one spot and a body mount) to fix but it's been a good project.

[fixkick]

very nice work (and  fun project !)
is the waterpump thermostat housing just like the J18?
if yes the small hose on the back behind the thermostat, must flow coolant other the thermostat goes nuts, it HUNT up and down over and over.
pipe 22, for heater core.
and the thermostat is different that the G16,  
 


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[fixkick]

if no heater? ,core, just loop 25 to 26 and it will work. that very hot water from ECT flange must land on the pipe 22 port on the pump or the thermostat will surge, like mad.

[thebanjoman]

After talking to some hot rodder friends

I'm math challenged and din't do my research   I messed up on the electric fans I have for this vehicle. 

The electric fans I have in place.

2 10" fans  - 800 CFM each 1600 CFM isn't really enough pull through the radiator properly.   Not needing the fans at higher speeds 
would be fine but at idle and in traffic it isn't going to be enough to keep the heat at bay.

I should have used a larger single fan with a higher CFM rating. 

I used a 15x21 aluminum cookie sheet and made a fan shroud for this

I'll get another pan, get a bigger, higher CFM rated fan and I'm sure I'll be in a better place.

Now that I have her running properly and starting fine I should be driving her soon.

[thebanjoman]

She's on the Road...

Put a bosch electric water temp gauge in and she's running 170-200 range all day long without an issue,  ECM temps from the ODB2 connector reported were easily +40 degrees from what is being reported from the water temp gauge so my fears of overheating with the larger J23 engine was unfounded.

She's a runner..  I've had her up to 80Mph  on the interstate and still have pedal left and the A/C blows cold.  I'm happy with the way things turned out.

EXCEPT..    Looks like either the aftermarket rear main seal (Fel-Pro) isn't right or I installed it wrong so it's leaking and will require me to pull it all apart again.

I've ordered an OEM Suzuki rear main seal and am borrowing  the Suzuki seal install tool from a friend so that I will be attempting to do this again, hopefully with success.  

Thx for the input in this message thread and I've been happy with the results.

[fixkick]

ON the Road , GREAT and nice work there ! very nice.
yes the tool prevents the sharp crank edge from cutting the new seal. see DIY fixes here.

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sid...-tool.html

[thebanjoman]

ON the Road , GREAT and nice work there ! very nice.
yes the tool prevents the sharp crank edge from cutting the new seal.  see DIY fixes here.

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sid...-tool.html

Probably serves me right for not researching the install. I've been changing them for 30 years with just a tap-tap-tap in and never a problem on other vehicles.

I'll stop, read, research, and do this right so I don't have to do it again.

Still have some cleanup and things to work through but she turned out good.

[thebanjoman]

ON the Road , GREAT and nice work there ! very nice.
yes the tool prevents the sharp crank edge from cutting the new seal.  see DIY fixes here.

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sid...-tool.html

Probably serves me right for not researching the install. I've been changing them for 30 years with just a tap-tap-tap in and never a problem on other vehicles.

I'll stop, read, research, and do this right so I don't have to do it again.

Still have some cleanup and things to work through but she turned out good.

  Here is the install tool I will be using to fix the main seal