11-03-2013, 08:17 PM (This post was last modified: 11-03-2013, 08:28 PM by gorkyb.)
I put everything back together yesterday with the exception of the cam shaft, while inspecting the cylinder head I found 3 broken rocker arm clips, I had only one spare in my tool box, I ordered more yesterday, hopefully they ship on Monday. I am attaching a picture of the packaging in case someone else needs to order these.
I also found the exhaust manifold started to crack where it was welded last time so I had a friend weld it for me, he put a big thick patch on it so if it cracks it won't be at the same spot (at least I don't thinks so), only time will tell.
02-25-2014, 02:10 AM (This post was last modified: 02-25-2014, 02:36 AM by gorkyb.)
Hi everyone, so finally after some procrastination on my part the Tracker is all back together, battery is recharging as of last night. I'll know tonight or in the next couple of days if it starts. Before I start it I have to repair a broken wire at the plug that connects to the distributor's base, these wires are far gone exactly at the point where they go into the plug, I think the safest bet will be to cut back on the wiring (around 4" or so) and add new wiring going into the connector and soldier them each one by one. Also while dropping the distributor in I noticed I had somehow managed to get gasket making material (grey permatex) exactly on the tip of the post of the distributor, I must have done this when I was trying to seal the distributor a few months ago. I also found a damaged cam shaft seal which I also replaced, the seal that was leaking was not old so I must have driven in unevenly last time I did it and pinched it.
I also re-taped all the wiring harness and checked for broken wires while the harness was out of the car.
Please look at the picture and tell me if any of you know what that threaded hole (where I have the green piece of plastic) is for. Am I missing something here?
02-26-2014, 12:55 PM (This post was last modified: 02-26-2014, 12:59 PM by gorkyb.)
(02-25-2014, 03:41 AM)fixkick Wrote: bad dizzy wiring is real bad. misfire city. <-------
the engine is used in many cars, so there are lots of holes , not used.'
new head, http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_31.html
the rear cam cap is RTV at juncture, the 96FSm is on line and covers that. step. i even have this step expanced in my 97 show. http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_45.html<--- yes, I put the rtv under before I bolted down the cam cap, I went right off your page, great pictures btw. Where I got RTV is at the tip of the HV post under the distributor cap, I think I did this when I was trying to seal the distributor because I tought it was getting wet since the car would be hard to start every time after I washed it or in rainy days. Anyway, I cleaned that off already.
if not it leaks oil to back of head.
my guess is that hole is used on other intake mounts. other cars. X90? or Esteem/ or??? id not worry it.
Here are some pictures of my attempted wire repair. Taking the plug apart is not as hard as it seems just gotta take the time and have patience so one doesn't break the tiny clips holding each pin. I hope my soldiering was good enough to last for a while. Working on this old wiring in the cold weather doesn't help, it makes the already deteriorated wire insulation even more brittle and just by twisting a little bit by hand it breaks apart.
that is all good work, and nice connector rebuild !!!
rtv on the HV buttons in the dizzy cap ,is vary bad. its great insulator when cured.
the other suspect is the coil in that dizzy.
ok ,its misfiring. not bogging,
loss of fuel pressure , can be felt when you start engine to (drain of fuel pressure for fuel line work) you pull the fuel pump relay and the engine starts to loose power, that is a way to feel bog.
or pull the L.tail lite fuel pink wire conn. same. a smooth loss of power.
misfire, causes, shaking engine at idle and when cruising, its ,like a chain saw with a bad spark plug, rat-a-tat-tat, rough, running, and lost power.
(02-26-2014, 10:46 PM)fixkick Wrote: that is all good work, and nice connector rebuild !!!
rtv on the HV buttons in the dizzy cap ,is vary bad. its great insulator when cured.
the other suspect is the coil in that dizzy. <-- to test the coil I do what's shown on http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/video-...Dtest.html right?
ok ,its misfiring. not bogging,
loss of fuel pressure , can be felt when you start engine to (drain of fuel pressure for fuel line work) you pull the fuel pump relay and the engine starts to loose power, that is a way to feel bog.
or pull the L.tail lite fuel pink wire conn. same. a smooth loss of power.
misfire, causes, shaking engine at idle and when cruising, its ,like a chain saw with a bad spark plug, rat-a-tat-tat, rough, running, and lost power.
your on the right track i see.. good luck to you.
I will see what happens once I try starting up the car, I'll complete the distributor connector rebuild today and try starting the car up this afternoon. (crossing fingers)
02-28-2014, 12:51 PM (This post was last modified: 02-28-2014, 12:54 PM by gorkyb.)
Completed distributor plug rebuild and with a fully charged battery, this is what happened:
1) First try, cranking and no start.
2) Gauge at fuel rail shows above 30 psi. so checked for spark. Spark existent but seemed weak and color was yellowish.
3) Took off cap and replaced rotor with a spare I had laying around.
4) Tried starting again, same symptoms.
5) Hooked timing light to see if maybe I timed the distributor wrong as I was sure that cam and crank were timed properly. Strobe light from gun did not turn on. I suspected a bad timing gun maybe so I tested on my other car and it worked. At this point I was sure there is something wrong with the spark. (maybe weak?)
6) Replaced distributor with an old spare one I bought on ebay last year. The problem is that this distributor for whatever reason does not land like the one that came in the Tracker does. Still tried it the closest I could with the middle of the rotor landing at 1 o'clock.
7) Tried starting car again. Vroooom! started right up. However ignition timing sounded wrong.
8) Took off distributor and tried landing it more towards 12 o'clock, started car again and engine ran better.
9) Waited for car to warm up and settle down to around 800 rpm, freezed the jumper and pointed the gun at the crank pulley. Time looks waaaay off, I roughly calculate strobe light comes on with notch on crank pulley is around 2 o'clock.
10) Tried moving distributor to make light land closer to 0 degrees on timing belt cover scale and engine became veeery weak so for now I left it where back to where it was on step 9.
11) Drove it around the block (with paper clip still on timing freeze jumper, I forgot to take it out) and DTC P1530 stored (not pending, actually stored)
Markings and appearance on spare distributor seem the same as the original distributor. I need guidance here please. Did P1530 get stored because I left the jumper on while driving it? Engine power feels normal, no hesitations or loss of power, grant it, I only drove it around the block once. Is there any way to get the original distributor working? I cannot spend $200 on a new distributor
