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1994 Sidekick 16v AT 4x4 4dr virgin ECM Ruby's still there
#11
please post country first. for better help , for sure finding tools cheap and converting measurements to other standards.
It also tells me what ECU you have suzuki has many versions if this car in vast countries.
and are not the same.
here are some differences,(by country) ENGINE Type codes, 1,2,3,4?
and different distributors.
and different smog devices, some have NONE, called JDM cars, VITARA JDM sold in japan real or in south pacific islands.
I can not guess what car you you have,  G16b 16valves sure but they are NOT ALL THE SAME. (even 20 more more variants and not trivial)

your country now, is helpful for parts and books
and where the car was sold first, matters.
like I live in France but car new was from a Germany.
this is called the market code,  if the wire wall has huge blue , VIN plate its is not a USA car.
got this.?

[Image: Jap-E24-1994plate.jpg]
http://www.fixkick.com
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#12
some will post and say sidekick and is really not one it is a Vitara.
I never know for sure, if I can not see the VIN or see the car... (vin : xyzabcdefg123456) leave off the 123456 this number at the end is a serial number)
not me, not possible.
in real shop you go to say in texas, the mechanic pops the hood and looks
and sees lots of things correct and some wrong, looking is first, VIN and underhood
and the under hood (under and look up too for suzuki tag large, not seen outside USA this huge white sticker tag)
missing parts
hacks,
wrong parts
even cars from canada moved down here long ago and with OMG, CANADA MAPLE LEAF STICKERS ON THE FIRE WALL ENGINE SIDE.

warning #1, some 1990 years, cars the VIN serial shows major parts upgrades (or smog) on and exact serial number vin, or you get the wrong parts.
mostly smog parts, but also intake manifolds huge changes. and exhaust too.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#13
The CEL does work and it does flash 12 when the port is jumped. I couldn't get it to work until you told me about the NAG switch. The light would just stay on until I flipped the switch then it flashed the 12 when I jumped the port. When I installed the repaired ECM I had forgotten to connect the distributor and it was flashing 42 so after I plugged it back in it flashed 12. So I am confident in the repair work. The 200° c was just what I saw on the oven it was put into and may not have been the temperature it was brought up to. I was able to watch him do the work but he gave me a brief explanation that seemed right but I'm no electronics expert. He also recoated the board with some type of coating where he had worked. In the end it looked new. The only difference was the new caps were a little smaller than the originals but the ratings were exactly the same. I was able to examine the Catalytic Converter today and it's melted. I'm sure that the ECM was bad for awhile and it was over fueling a lot. It was probably the reason my water pump popped the weep hole seal. That's the reason I started working on it in the first place. I got home one day and the coolant was pouring out of the weep hole on the water pump. I decided to go ahead and replace the water pump, timing belt, accessory belts and the crank timing pulley bolt. I wanted to inspect the crank nose and keyway so I got a new bolt. When I got everything reassembled it wouldn't start and would almost start with WOT. That's when I started diagnosing the issue starting with the compression. It was low but no different from a year ago when I thought it was great but now I know that's low and I will probably be refreshing the head cause my wet test didn't change my numbers very much. The main reason I knew it couldn't be the compression was the fact it ran before I worked on it and I found out the engine is non interference so even if the timing belt was off it wouldn't have damaged my valves. I rechecked the timing 4 different times and even pulled the timing cog to check the keyway again. I finally got a noid light set to check the injector signal and I found it to be very strange. When I finally decided to pull the ECM is when I found the information about the Rubycon capacitors and I realized mine still had them. This is what was causing my over fueling problem and it also caused my catalytic converter to melt and the exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the intake tube as well. I'm going to order a catalytic converter and intake hose but with the Catalytic Converter off I took a ride and it runs awesome and the over fueling has been resolved. I pulled the spark plugs after I drove it and they were coffee brown and not wet like before. If it wasn't for the information on this site and the information you provided me I don't think I would have been able to fix it. I would have never thought the ECM could be the problem.
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#14
great, news
the engine on this car may have 4 cylinder fall from 180 PSI to 100. and still start. and run with 1/2 power,
the mAF sees the lost air flow and you get less power.
The caps bad, will cause the ECU to nuts even booting over and over, with internal power regulation lost.
The cat is only really need to make the EGR work.
do compression engine tad warm at WOT, with all plugs removed and it will 180psi at sealevel both my 96 and 97 did,easy easy a eating pie.

I am so happy for you not needed to spend big cash on new ECU . very happy, cheers.
enjoy Indian summer, here is it super next in fall. 80s.
PS
im sure now the NIOD deal is eCU booting as you cranked over over from loss of power inside. never is this good.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#15
Hello I am new to this. I have never posted a question before. Please I need help!
I did not know how to start a new post so I looked for similar problem. 1995 Sidekick 4x4 Man Trans, MFI 1.6 16v Calif. Emissions,
Problem Injector Pulse width 4.8ms at idle.
Black smoke and strong fuel smell from exhaust pipe. Runs great, idles great has power, no  hesitations but runs very rich.
No DTCs
Blinks 12
Tech 1a : No DTCs
Basics have been done, Good compression 180s min difference 5psi, Ignition and spark plugs and timing at 5 BTC. Fuel pressure Koeo 36 then 31 and and hold above 26 psi for more than 1 min.  Although the following data stream from Tech 1a shows:

Engine speed 788 rpm
14.8 Volts, 16 % charging.
Rich status
AC and Power Steering off
EGR Temp 142F
EGR off
Idel switch on, Fuel Pump On
IAC 28 L/min
Idel Adj Mont 0%
5 to 17 degrees spark advance
Injector Pulse Width 4.8 ms
St Fuel Trim 128
Lt Fuel Trim 117
HOS .894 mv Activated  but not sure if its switching 1200rpm 1500rmp or 2500rpm?
Close Loop I am determining by causing a vacuum leak  pulse width goes down and and spark advance too.
TPS .86 Vlt 0 degree angle
ECT 147F ( This is error of Tech1a)  Tested at Pin 9 ECM/ECU .66vlts 320omhs at ECT disconnected ECT connector pin 9 back probe Idle goes to Ref. Voltage 4.7 182 degrees infared.
MASS 2.4 g/s
IAT tests 75 degrees 1900 ohms

Parts new Fuel press regulator leaked pulled hose,  O2 sensor resistance out of spec., CAT damaged,
EGR and Sensor, CEL  on DTC 51
Spark plugs wires and CAP rotor and oil change fuel saturation
Timing Set to 5 BTC Ground Duty Cycle Connector
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#16
(10-27-2020, 02:36 PM)SidekickTripper Wrote: Hello I am new to this. I have never posted a question before. Please I need help!
I did not know how to start a new post so I looked for similar problem. 1995 Sidekick 4x4 Man Trans, MFI 1.6 16v Calif. Emissions,
Problem Injector Pulse width 4.8ms at idle.
Black smoke and strong fuel smell from exhaust pipe. Runs great, idles great has power, no  hesitations but runs very rich.
No DTCs
Blinks 12
Tech 1a : No DTCs
Basics have been done, Good compression 180s min difference 5psi, Ignition and spark plugs and timing at 5 BTC. Fuel pressure Koeo 36 then 31 and and hold above 26 psi for more than 1 min.  Although the following data stream from Tech 1a shows:

Engine speed 788 rpm
14.8 Volts, 16 % charging.
Rich status
AC and Power Steering off
EGR Temp 142F
EGR off
Idel switch on, Fuel Pump On
IAC 28 L/min
Idel Adj Mont 0%
5 to 17 degrees spark advance
Injector Pulse Width 4.8 ms
St Fuel Trim 128
Lt Fuel Trim 117
HOS .894 mv Activated  but not sure if its switching 1200rpm 1500rmp or 2500rpm?
Close Loop I am determining by causing a vacuum leak  pulse width goes down and and spark advance too.
TPS .86 Vlt 0 degree angle
ECT 147F ( This is error of Tech1a)  Tested at Pin 9 ECM/ECU .66vlts 320omhs at ECT disconnected ECT connector pin 9 back probe Idle goes to Ref. Voltage 4.7 182 degrees infared. (all good)

MASS 2.4 g/s   ( idle rates look good)
IAT tests 75 degrees 1900 ohms

Parts new Fuel press regulator leaked pulled hose,  O2 sensor resistance out of spec., CAT damaged,
EGR and Sensor, CEL  on DTC 51
Spark plugs wires and CAP rotor and oil change fuel saturation
Timing Set to 5 BTC Ground Duty Cycle Connector
exhaust manifold off,  is #4 tube (cast iron) cracked, as all love to do making O2 go nuts.
ECT reads wrong, 147f IS Dead wrong on a hot normal engine, bad thermostat or the floating thermostat missing the mandatory rubber ring? (wrong ECT?)
thanks for sharing the tech1, data,  a very rare test tool still working this old.

all looks good, for sure fuel trim dead center at 128
I guess it is intermittent, that fueling goes wrong.

then monitor O2 all the time. to see if it goes nuts or fuel trim goes way off. at idle or steady cruise at 25mph or 45mph.  closed loop holds, at steady right foot cruise.

yes some tech1a have the wrong conversions for ECT, many have see that,  my guess do to suzuki using different ECT on all G16a for sure in europe, type 1,2,3,4, engine there we do not have. USA
Is see you checked the volatage and 0.65vdc means ECU is good at 180f, for sure. so you ROM pack in the tech1 is too old or wrong one. (vitara not sidekick tracker) but is  white elephant and not a true problem with engine or EFI nor sensors.
that is if the thermostat is not missing its rubber ring,  and then floats randomly and then ECT temps fall driving, about.

if thermostat is for sure good and solid, all the time hot
look for 02 reading wrong or long term fuel trim LTFT going wrong at cruise.


Nice presentation best ive ever  seen for 1995, thanks for that.

Fuel pressure Koeo 36 then 31 (running)
5 PSI drop from kOEO , to idle,  looks great.




refr, tech1,

https://fixkick.com/ECU/Tech1/full_scan2.html


watch O2 and LTFT.  (STFT is usually to fast to understand)
are you saying it is rich , even running above at idle.>? I think yes.
if yes seems it has wrong injectors in engine, too big.?  (wild guess) 4.8ms at idle. (i DO NOT KNOW idle injector rates on this year , hot idle)
based only on LTFT shows normal,


I see why you ask for help, a tough one it is.


cheers to you and good day.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#17
(10-27-2020, 08:23 PM)fixkick Wrote:
(10-27-2020, 02:36 PM)SidekickTripper Wrote: Hello I am new to this. I have never posted a question before. Please I need help!
I did not know how to start a new post so I looked for similar problem. 1995 Sidekick 4x4 Man Trans, MFI 1.6 16v Calif. Emissions,
Problem Injector Pulse width 4.8ms at idle.
Black smoke and strong fuel smell from exhaust pipe. Runs great, idles great has power, no  hesitations but runs very rich.
No DTCs
Blinks 12
Tech 1a : No DTCs
Basics have been done, Good compression 180s min difference 5psi, Ignition and spark plugs and timing at 5 BTC. Fuel pressure Koeo 36 then 31 and and hold above 26 psi for more than 1 min.  Although the following data stream from Tech 1a shows:

Engine speed 788 rpm
14.8 Volts, 16 % charging.
Rich status
AC and Power Steering off
EGR Temp 142F
EGR off
Idel switch on, Fuel Pump On
IAC 28 L/min
Idel Adj Mont 0%
5 to 17 degrees spark advance
Injector Pulse Width 4.8 ms
St Fuel Trim 128
Lt Fuel Trim 117
HOS .894 mv Activated  but not sure if its switching 1200rpm 1500rmp or 2500rpm?
Close Loop I am determining by causing a vacuum leak  pulse width goes down and and spark advance too.
TPS .86 Vlt 0 degree angle
ECT 147F ( This is error of Tech1a)  Tested at Pin 9 ECM/ECU .66vlts 320omhs at ECT disconnected ECT connector pin 9 back probe Idle goes to Ref. Voltage 4.7 182 degrees infared. (all good)

MASS 2.4 g/s   ( idle rates look good)
IAT tests 75 degrees 1900 ohms

Parts new Fuel press regulator leaked pulled hose,  O2 sensor resistance out of spec., CAT damaged,
EGR and Sensor, CEL  on DTC 51
Spark plugs wires and CAP rotor and oil change fuel saturation
Timing Set to 5 BTC Ground Duty Cycle Connector
exhaust manifold off,  is #4 tube (cast iron) cracked, as all love to do making O2 go nuts.
ECT reads wrong, 147f IS Dead wrong on a hot normal engine, bad thermostat or the floating thermostat missing the mandatory rubber ring? (wrong ECT?)
thanks for sharing the tech1, data,  a very rare test tool still working this old.

all looks good, for sure fuel trim dead center at 128
I guess it is intermittent, that fueling goes wrong.

then monitor O2 all the time. to see if it goes nuts or fuel trim goes way off. at idle or steady cruise at 25mph or 45mph.  closed loop holds, at steady right foot cruise.

yes some tech1a have the wrong conversions for ECT, many have see that,  my guess do to suzuki using different ECT on all G16a for sure in europe, type 1,2,3,4, engine there we do not have. USA
Is see you checked the volatage and 0.65vdc means ECU is good at 180f, for sure. so you ROM pack in the tech1 is too old or wrong one. (vitara not sidekick tracker) but is  white elephant and not a true problem with engine or EFI nor sensors.
that is if the thermostat is not missing its rubber ring,  and then floats randomly and then ECT temps fall driving, about.

if thermostat is for sure good and solid, all the time hot
look for 02 reading wrong or long term fuel trim LTFT going wrong at cruise.


Nice presentation best ive ever  seen for 1995, thanks for that.

Fuel pressure Koeo 36 then 31 (running)
5 PSI drop from kOEO , to idle,  looks great.




refr, tech1,

https://fixkick.com/ECU/Tech1/full_scan2.html


watch O2 and LTFT.  (STFT is usually to fast to understand)
are you saying it is rich , even running above at idle.>? I think yes.
if yes seems it has wrong injectors in engine, too big.?  (wild guess) 4.8ms at idle. (i DO NOT KNOW idle injector rates on this year , hot idle)
based only on LTFT shows normal,


I see why you ask for help, a tough one it is.


cheers to you and good day.
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#18
Thanks Helperbee

Answer is that the it running rich at idle and cruise despite all I see and the pulse width very high at idle.

I will monitor the vehicle HO2 sensor driving the vehicle(safely) and then check or replace Injectors. If I check injector ohms will that show wrong injectors? also I will check for Crack in exhaust manifold. Do not hear any. (any photos of exhaust crack normal?)
Could there be a problem with ECM/ ECU regarding controlling pulse width? how common is that?
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#19
great questions.
the 4 injectors are about 10ohm coils (varies by engine temperatures) if all 4 read the same then they are good coils.
the injectors, are modulated. PWM (to keep them cool when energized)
the ECU is just a tiny slow computer, and embedded processor.  with firmware inside called  ROM. (can not be changed this rom only ECU full)
The injector pulses are based on many factors, and all engine modes.  cranked, cold running , hot running, idle, cruise and wot, (and accerlation)
the factors effected all ECUs and computers are the inputs, just those.
all the top sensors are.
lets do hot running, idle
#1 fuel pressure at spec, at idle. is #1  (& no leaking injectors, yours passed this test leak down , 1minute test)

  1. MAF air flow (mass air flows) injections match this. flow, 14.7 to 1 ratio called Stoich AFR air fuel ratio mix.
  2. ECT , shows 300  ohms for 180f and steady all the time hot.
  3. IAT, only does very little adjustments to fuel, some 1992 G16 have none at all.
  4. O2,  the OS find tunes all errors out of MAF air flow,  for 14.7 :1 AFR, at idle and cruise hot, (steady foot)  heater must work !
  5. TPS only has 1vdc on output at idle and does not effect AFR until driver makes this voltage go high real fast. (called acceleration to 12:1 AFR rich)
  6. The ECU must not be in limphome mode (failsafe) or goes super rich, and spark advance dead, and no idle controls. 12 code means you are not here.
the o2 heater must be good, some early ECU do not report the heater dead when it is dead,  1amps of current flow about. at 12vdc.


one top injector show says (witchhunter)
We are starting to see quite a few Chinese made injectors that are junk, most have the factory part number and not the correct logo. Be careful when purchasing so-called, new injectors for a very low cost.
(never buy ebay injectors, or get junk easy for sure china direct crap)
in fact have you real stock injectors PRO cleaned is far far better, $23 each , using reverse Ultrasonic cleaned (10micro screens inside yah)

the crack that loves to happen is here (loves to crack here#4 rear) only on 16valve engine, never 8v.
this crack is super bad, due to works one minute , not next , repeats as the metal heat up or cools, under varying engine load, the crack sucks in air that is 20% oxygen (02) and causes the 02 sensor to read crazy wrong, (near 0 volts wrong !!!) and goes RICH when it does. on 1995 and older super rich.

[Image: 96-num4-cracked.JPG]


one more mode. called EFI getting lost mode. (not documented any where,)
the ECU hot, wants to pull injectors to STOICH at idle, it prime goal is this, and EPA and Calif ARB0)\
called closed loop mode.

to do that magic the ECU loops on the O2, it reads the O2  about 6 times a second (that is why the o2 CEL makes wave form slow)
this loop causes the 02 to hunt (ecu is the hunter) and works hard to pull, the fuel to center of 02 range about 0.45v (.5v for short)
this is why all shop check the o2 output super careful now, using scope or in OBD2 the 02 scan live mode of the tool.
the 02 can be wrong many ways, stuck high , stuck low or offset or correct. (centered and fast wave)

obd2, o2 scans, see the O2 swing at hot idle"? it must and not be offset, it is correct here. or use a real scope on the OD Cel + and minus wire pins)
[Image: photo8.jpg]

The o2 is hot tiny battery, called CEL. acts like 0 to 1vdc battery, per BOSCH web site on top, the wave above is ECU hunting STOICH. (perfect AFR)
sadly tech1, can not do that. only 1996 and up newer cars USA, can. or outside USA even 2004 year up, we have list of world compliant cars. to OBD2.

Sadly#2 I do not have 16valve injector pulse-width data hot idle. (my bad for forgetting to do that with my shop scope or oBD2)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#20
lots of toys online now on topic,
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/calcinjpulse.html

cubic inches. 97.63799 (1.6L)

i got 1.5mS , idle Pulse width. at idle sequential injection, not ganged,

Your Installed Injector size (lb/hr): 26 above (unknown by me) one site told me it is 19 lb/hr and PW - 1.8 Ms.
http://www.promracing.com/injector.php

20mS at full load full wot throttle. (max PW) so is 2 to 20mS range.
injectors real have min, pulse width allowed and the dead time is 1mS, it takes 1MS to just to wake it up (pintel inertia) that means huge racing injectors fail at idle, the can not do 2MS injections correctly see>?
1600Cc injectors only work here with this ECU.
http://www.fixkick.com
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