16v 1.6L Bad bog questions

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok kick I went ahead and continued testing fuel pump and found that it’s leaking down too fast. Does not hold 20 psi for a minute. Shunt test was solid and even went to 80psi but held at 40 strong. I first unplugged all fuel injectors and measured ohms reading. Every one was at 13.7 ohms. I know your site says 10 but the cHilton manual says they are good from 12-16. Next I tested for leak down and even with them all unplugged the psi still drops. I checked all cylinders one by one to check if I could see wetness or spray with the plugs removed and nothing that looks liked wet flowing gas. I even went so far as to key on each time I checked and Did not see spray. So I replaced the fuel pressure regulator with the old one (old one was still good, mityvac needed rebuilt) and it held better but still not at 25psi. Any other things I can do to see if the injectors are leaking? Remember the pump assembly is all brand new.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

Ok just another update. Went out again to give it another try and had some strange results. Got a better hold on the return line and clamped it after 3 seconds key on and the pressure held. I took off the clamp and it continued to hold, only leaking down slightly. It was over 20psi for 1 minute. Remember all the injectors are still unplugged. I would let it bleed down to 10 psi after 2 minutes and then key on again and see if it held. It continued to hold the same 3 more times so I decided to plug in the injectors and see what happens. The first try key on it held for a second and then dropped fast and didn’t hold as well. Second time it barely held then it stopped holding all together. So I pinched the return line and attempted to get the same results I had before with all the injectors unplugged again. It slowly leaked down when I clamped the return line the first time key on but when I keyed on again the pressure dropped to zero instantly. It now continues to drop instantly if the return line is blocked or not. Any thoughts?

[fixkick]

all hoses in side tank new?

[fixkick]

Ok now on to tests. Testing fpr how long should diaphragm Hold vacuum for. My gauge pumps up but won’t hold and immediately leaksdown

diaphragms, do not leak at all
they are a wall of rubber, or synthetic rubber, that will not leak at all.
its bad, for sure. do not use this FPR again, like this, its hopelessly GONE FOR EVER this part, and will get worse and that is no place to be ever.
sorry late answer , just came back from GRAND CAYMAN island.

[fixkick]

when posting DATA.
show readings before and after in PSI or vacuum and RPM if running test is done, sure rpm 0, key on not running,
all data helps me, every bit, because i cant see it .

[CSUSBgeochem1]

ok kick i feel there might be a little confusion so i wanted to make sure i list everything for you like you asked.

New fuel filter

No leaks in any of the hard lines, no kinks either.

I bought i new regulator,, it holds vacuum

New fuel pump assembly (pump, metal it sits in, little rubber line, sock, sender) the whole shebang. sadly i did not check for a check valve before stuffing it into the tank and screwing down the little screws on top. Its a Spectre pump assembly. i heard the airtex ones dont have good connections and leak so i went with the more expensive Spectre

PSI ratings

Key on running does it increase with throttle?
Old pump 12 17 no
New Pump 42 36 yes

Pump seems to be running fine which is why the bog is gone but the fuel rail is just leaking down to fast.

All injectors unplugged and fuel return line plugged, still leaks down. honestly im going to do a set of videos to make sure you visually see whats going on because iv had some strange stuff happen.

Strange stuff that doesnt make any sense:

old regulator WAS good after checking it with the rebuilt mityvac pump. after checking injectors unplugged and still getting leak down i decided to swap back to the old one. we had better pressure results (didnt leak down AS FAST but still leaked down in less than a minute). This is the regulator that was on when the system suddenly started working. it was holding key on and off 4 times. then when i PLUGGED BACK IN the injectors and turned the key to the on position the fuel rail primed but leaked down just like before. SINCE THEN i have not been able to get pressure again. i dont know if it was a fluke, but i have since uplugged the injectors again to try and duplicate the success.

when i read your posts above i went outside to check the old regulator AGAIN to make sure, cant be too sure. WELL.....gas came out the nipple, it never has before so now the old one IS BAD lol.

All manifold vacuum ports work and are not clogged at all. i checked them and yes it is plugged in right. Ill continue to test it and see if i can get better results. i mean really.....there are only so many places the gas can go. I would hate to think the brand new pump has a bad or no check valve. i will also do the volume check. ill report back. thanks again!!

[CSUSBgeochem1]

sorry the psi data got jumbled

Old pump
key on: 12
running: 17
psi did not increase with throttle

New pump
key on:42
running:36
Psi does increase with throttle

[fixkick]

sorry i missed all those facts (data old and new
Ok i see it now.
so all tests pass car runs like new, LOL
and only the leak down test fails.

my guess is its not injectors,
leaks down how fast from what to what PSI in what seconds.?
do not use the old FPR, its no good, bad to consider using it at all.
if you use the old FPR, all reading will be bad or random, as expected from any diapharm of any kind cracked. and valve badly worn at the same time.
ok the old FPR fails vac leak down
and the cracked diaphragm is now leaking fuel as all do as is the damage progresses fast sure it does and will.
we need to move past all old FPR.


you are down to just 2 things, injectors or pump (and hose)

or lazy way first?

parked key on 10 times
then wait say 30minutes (crossing fingers for intake valves that seal 100% , that can happen with hand lapped valves on new heads)
look in all 4 spark holes for the flood on top of pistons
but doing the test 1 cylinder at a time intake valve open any amount makes for 1 minute test. results.
cheers


the leak down tests fails with fpr hose (fuel return) pinched right? so that means fpr not it , injectors are bad the check valves leaks or the top pump hose leaks or the camps on it are loose.
if you test the injectors to see if they leak, (not easy) then they are not leaking, or get them clean at witchunter.com.
testing MPI injectors on a car is not easy. (bore scope? to spark hole, wet tip of spark plugs) pools of gas on top the piston crowns. test each cylinder 1 by 1,. with its intake valve open, yah , that works wonders to see the river of fuel to piston top..
if the injectors pass ,. the the check valve leaks, if it does, ignore it.

in fact it will get better in time as used. the brand you got is OK !

[fixkick]

the leak down tests
is useful for folks that see one cylinder that folds and rough idle just started hot.
say go to 7-11 buy milk for kids come out and hard starts, and black smoke and nose smells stench of raw fuel.
say injector 1 leaks.
if the pump ball is new and not prefect yet, the only side effect if at all is 1 second more cranking, if at all.

[CSUSBgeochem1]

https://www.facebook.com/ScienceISLife/v...078897126/

here is a video showing everything. All injectors are unplugged. did i buy a bogus FPR? thats the new one.