96 Kick rpm's

[fixkick]

now how to fix any car that fails like this. (limited evidence)

first and foremost ,  we try to get the engine to fail parked, with hood up.  (a prime goal to any engine mechanic)  no safer way exists.

if you can do that via any why,  the problems are vastly more easy to diagnose,  not driving,


first make sure all these   grounds are not bad, that happen with poor service so common in the engine bay . grounds seen here 16v seen G105 and down here)
G103, omg bad if loose.   main engine ground bad.
and with 3 tools , OBD2 scan tool , timing spark tool, and fuel pressure gauge,


1: grounds ok per link above, and not bad ground at plug pins on distributor.
2: scan  the ECU  using OBD2 tool, and if , P340 is bad CMP ,spark dies,  P030x errors (x= 0 means all 4 fail, 1,2,3,4 for x means that cylinder number misfired
3: connect timing light to #1 front wire HV,  tape down the trigger on gun with duct tape now engine running it STROBE FLASHES endlessly.   #20 tool at harbor Fright(pun)

3a: if it stops flashing ever testing, spark is failing, if engine fails and spark does not fail seen here, then it is not a spark problem (assumes new spark plugs and new wire set)
3b: it is not spark caused, nor did OBD1 tell you it was,  P03xx codes are all spark.

4: ok fuel is failing , FPR is top cause or bad fuel pump.
5: the front fuel rail has plug there and we can put a scharder valve there, to measure fuel pressure at any time,

based on limited evidence above,  bad spark ,bad grounds , or fuel pressure reg, stuck low. as they love to do this old. (inside they jam up) or pump weak.

other tests here, can pan out.
front crank bolt 17mm head bolt at pulley not at 94Ft./lbs torque. but is loose can crank end is now a wreck.
cam belt not slipped or slipping, you will see spark timing way the H3LL off time.  as #1 first clue. use the timing light to see that error, huge, but use the timing freeze jumper now.

the 3 fuses to ECU must not be , loose rusty, cracked inside, or damaged in any why.

if spark fails we can learn why easy
same with fuel pressure dropping, sure can easy.

off my  pump/fpr page these words, this FPR sets fuel pressure at say 35psi at idle then rises by PSI to say 41PSI at wide open throttle , if not power is not there, low power.HP.

The fuel pressure must rise  or lower like the above chart shows.
Static test:  1.6L KEY ON-no start no plenum vacuum---Suz 35.6–42.7 psi    (GM says 36-43 psi)  Sport = 1.8L ----38.4–44.0 psi 

Running pressure: . 1.6L Key ON-start - full plenum vacuum-- 29.8–37.0 psi   (GM says 30-37 psi) Sport =  1.8L  ---31.3–37.0 psi, 
Both tests above are critical. to proper MPI operations.
The injector leak down test (simple and crude)

if the PFR does not raise  pressure by 6PSI with aggressive right foot action (wot) the FPR is bad or pump bad, do the shunt test for latter cause.
this is not in the books this  critical test. but that is how it works.

the reason if you are curious, is that at wot the injector fights atmosphere pressure 14.7psi, so needs 6 psi more fuel pressure to do that.; if not power will not happen.


this is my FPR in action , using  magical vacuum hand pump tool,  a 5 th tool here.  test pressure at keyon then idle. (not that keyon = WOT) both are at atmospheric.
chart shows BAR for say European user. etc.