look close at the caps.
some have tiny cracks, , top bulging, bottom rubber plugs ruptured,, ?
seen tiny side volcano's on them. see them explode(have photos) some versions mounted (no X on top) too close to PCB can explode. (aka; violent rupture)
the green acid spill (boric)
the acid eating copper traces, turning green too.
traces missing below cap.. (traces are the copper circuit paths)
the name rubycon, and the hit the trash fast.... and Nichicons stuffed in, low ESR, high temp rated.
these original caps have no X's on top of cap. the X are weak points added later, after 1995, ? "a better design"
the X's are to cause the acid to go UP. and not explode, and to hopefully send the acid to the lid and not to copper traces.
so the X Tops, are much better, if not there already.
always buy new stock caps.
do not buy NOS, 2000' year caps, as that was the bad caps years, (china cloned knock off)caps. that all failed. this is covered in a long WIKI.
buy new ones from MOuser. (fresh as a daisy)
i told you why, the ECU is vastly more busy, running, key on, it (ecu) does almost nothing.....
the processor just loops, key on, doing almost nothing.
your ECU is bad.
it fails , running , not key on, running is what matters, with the ECU very busy...
id guess, c103 is bad.
replace, it for a buck and see.....
12s must flash key on,
and 12s must flash running, endlessly and not break up code 12, the cadence is perfect.... flash, pause flashflash, repeat, no skips or hickups,(or other codes too. takes careful watching ....)
even all day running,12,12,12, endlessly. all ECU do this (usa <1996)
if not the ECU is BAD !
(well, the ground to the ecu might be bad, or power feed to it bad. even loose rusty fuse powering the ECU can do this) ig-coil and FI fuses
if power to ecu is good. the ECU is bad.
the ecu has many pins
one guy had a car with hacked wiring (remote start bs) pin a2 cut.
and the start pin on the ecu was at 12vdc all the time (wrong)
this causes the ecu to think, gee, cranking all time time....
it started but this logic pin, was wrong, confused the ECU.
some times, all pins on the ECU need to be check for wrong logic, or levels (sensors))
my ecu page links to this page,
that covers all that
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/16v-ecu-pins.html
some have tiny cracks, , top bulging, bottom rubber plugs ruptured,, ?
seen tiny side volcano's on them. see them explode(have photos) some versions mounted (no X on top) too close to PCB can explode. (aka; violent rupture)
the green acid spill (boric)
the acid eating copper traces, turning green too.
traces missing below cap.. (traces are the copper circuit paths)
the name rubycon, and the hit the trash fast.... and Nichicons stuffed in, low ESR, high temp rated.
these original caps have no X's on top of cap. the X are weak points added later, after 1995, ? "a better design"
the X's are to cause the acid to go UP. and not explode, and to hopefully send the acid to the lid and not to copper traces.
so the X Tops, are much better, if not there already.
always buy new stock caps.
do not buy NOS, 2000' year caps, as that was the bad caps years, (china cloned knock off)caps. that all failed. this is covered in a long WIKI.
buy new ones from MOuser. (fresh as a daisy)
i told you why, the ECU is vastly more busy, running, key on, it (ecu) does almost nothing.....
the processor just loops, key on, doing almost nothing.
your ECU is bad.
it fails , running , not key on, running is what matters, with the ECU very busy...
id guess, c103 is bad.
replace, it for a buck and see.....
12s must flash key on,
and 12s must flash running, endlessly and not break up code 12, the cadence is perfect.... flash, pause flashflash, repeat, no skips or hickups,(or other codes too. takes careful watching ....)
even all day running,12,12,12, endlessly. all ECU do this (usa <1996)
if not the ECU is BAD !
(well, the ground to the ecu might be bad, or power feed to it bad. even loose rusty fuse powering the ECU can do this) ig-coil and FI fuses
if power to ecu is good. the ECU is bad.
the ecu has many pins
one guy had a car with hacked wiring (remote start bs) pin a2 cut.
and the start pin on the ecu was at 12vdc all the time (wrong)
this causes the ecu to think, gee, cranking all time time....
it started but this logic pin, was wrong, confused the ECU.
some times, all pins on the ECU need to be check for wrong logic, or levels (sensors))
my ecu page links to this page,
that covers all that
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/16v-ecu-pins.html
http://www.fixkick.com