1998 tracker 1.9 4x4 clutch will not disengage.

[fixkick]

I was driving today and I noticed the shifting got really bad out of nowhere. When I came to stop, I was unable to put the vehicle back in 1st gear to start moving again (or any gear, for that matter). The car goes into all gears just fine with engine off so it has to be clutch related. 

I looked into it and the clutch cable has partially broken (some strands broke, others still intact). I replaced the cable with a spare a friend hand hoping for an easy fix and even with the new cable it will not go into any gear with the engine running. The clutch pedal is also extremely stiff, compared to normal but I can still press it with my foot. I also have the cable adjusted at the transmission end tightened almost as far as it can go. 

I have confirmed the clutch arm is moving (1 inch rule), see video here: https://streamable.com/8afw26

I’m assuming the next step is pull the trans and inspect for some type of internal failure. I really, really hoped this would not be case but I’m not sure what else to check. Is there anything else I should be looking into before I pull the trans.

if no slack in the cable, (called clutch cable free play) is set to zero (as a test only)
then the  bottom end bell lever end moves 1 inch, and clutch does not disengage the clutch is bad.
G16 engine, (1.9 not sure what that is me)
very wise you doing a new cable first,  as they fail easiest.
sorry for your clutch failure I am, good luck to you.

make sure cable is ok, and pedal welds not broken, or other damage first, end to end, outside the bell housing, is best practices.  careful inspections,
then 1 inch moment rule. (a 2 person test)

1.9 was a typo. It’s a 1.6 g16. Clutch is now only 5k miles or so on it. New cable and clutch arm is moving 1 inch (are video) clutch pedal is very stiff. I am going to have to pull trans to find out issues. I am thinking possibly a groove is worn into the trans input shaft jammed it engaged? I’ve read this can happen. Will update!

lots of causes,.  not in cable or dash pedals. lots.

what brand clutch surely not ebay no name clutches with garbage for PP or throw out bearings.
1 inch rule fails, means the throw out moved the correct distance, means.
1: throw-out bearing burned up and collapsed inside, doomed
2: PP diaprham cracks anywhere, or the burned up bearing above wrecked the PP fingers heat treating and are now annealed (soft and useless)
3: Bad flywheel face surface (would look, like moon surface or worse)  trans boxes syncros HATE any form or kind of clutch drag of any kind. and Reverse x10 worse for drag.
4: pilot bearing in fly face is bad that is drag or worse , doomed.
5:cracked PP face, pressure plate face)
6: yes the transmission front pilot shaft , spline can be a wreck this old and parts very hard to find to fix that, (discontinued part at suzuki)

try an exidy clutch? try top brand names even from a walk in store and not ebay ever,

saw one clutch that looks like was made in basement in china (and was) very crude work,   if not so sad would be funny to see,  
try rockauto.com?

do not use the 8valve engine clutch it is not the same as the 16v, buy with full carefulness.
do that and know that your cars engine is vin code 6 not U.  (6=16valves and 15 more HP)
GM has its own vin code for you engine unlike stinky suzuki.

the larger diameter is it.

the rock listing is for 16v only I think, here in USA,  8v ended in 1995 year, so...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/geo,...h+kit,1993

good luck with your clutch. and sorry for all this pain, pulling it a 10 hours labor, at least. 4WD

use quality jacks stands, or better,  be safe.
never trust your life to any jack hydraulic seal ever. (most are from china now)