Greetings..and..Transmission

[fixkick]

the lever is marked new.
as is the end.
my photos, show it....
all this has to be right or the clutch pedal acts real odd. (non linear action, odd)
goes like this.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mik...age_7.html

the center case for sure has a drain hole.
as seen at 6pm here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/html/image_20.html

the transfer case will eject huge GL4 lube tilted or worse this... and the bottom drive pinion huge gaping hole there,.... yoke removed.
the 5speed can be pre-0filled, sure. (only at side hole ,never from top)

there caution assumes the 5sp and transfer case are installed as one, so., defaults to transfer case rules.
but yes, a good question. and i think i prefilled my 5speed on one car... it sure can't come out. unless turned upside down. (ive done that trick too. oops)

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your on the home run now, 3rd base to home. Congrats !

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that hole is the TELL TAIL hole.... in bottom of center case, most are packed in grime. but after cleaning it, we go, gee look here, what's this?

[GeoHacker]

the lever is marked new.
as is the end.
my photos, show it....
all this has to be right or the clutch pedal acts real odd. (non linear action, odd)
goes like this.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mik...age_7.html

Mine looks right then…I can almost see that second dimple on the lever which I see on mine in that picture of yours.


the center case for sure has a drain hole.
as seen at 6pm here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/html/image_20.html

My case does not have that slot there like yours, is solid aluminum?


the transfer case will eject huge GL4 lube tilted or worse this... and the bottom drive pinion huge gaping hole there,.... yoke removed.
the 5speed can be pre-0filled, sure. (only at side hole ,never from top)

I think i'll wait then…

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your on the home run now, 3rd base to home. Congrats !

---

that hole is the TELL TAIL hole.... in bottom of center case, most are packed in grime. but after cleaning it, we go, gee look here, what's this?

Thanks, got the spacer case bolted on, good feeling.

Before this job, output shaft wiggled a little. Wiggles none now.

Before this job, input shaft moved a good bit up down left or right (1-2 mm range)…now is very solid feeling, no slack. (rotates fine too)

So, hopefully might work.

rc

[fixkick]

must be very early transmission the photo is 1991
the top of bell front edge lip, has the serial and year code.....
all those checks on play are very good !!!
xxxxxletterxxxxx ?

K= 89
L= 90
M =91

letters O, 0 and Q are not used. so they skip those.
see my vin page for codes engine/trans. and vin
all use same encoding with 1 letter.

yah , id drill a 1/4" hole there... tell tail.....

cheers

[GeoHacker]

must be very early transmission the photo is 1991
the top of bell front edge lip, has the serial and year code…..
yah , id drill a 1/4" hole there... tell tail.....

cheers

Mine says M21 in big letters (same M21 is also on Transfer?) Code in the first sticker has an N in it, which would make sense, since mine is 1992.

I think I will drill a weep hole.

Inside the spacer case, opposite the transfer input socket, there's a red grime in there, like clay paint, red mud color, hard to get off the hands. The socket for the input shaft is all red inside, and the red rusty crud was also dry-caked on the splines when I removed it…

Old GL-4? Or perhaps assembly grease? Slung about and evaporated? If not grease, I think that might explain my low trans oil level…leaking seal there at output shaft…mystery solved. Surely not red loctite?

Transfer case seal has no leakage indications. Could swap it out since I'm there.

Should I grease the output shaft splines before inserting into Transfer case? (lightly?)

r

[fixkick]

outside usa the serial is missing on trans or lacks year.
is this usa trans?
the top flange of bell is stamped, no sticker is hand (or machine)stamped
that red is rust (iron) from clutch and shaft. typical of all old cars.

the previous owner liked to ford streams. for rust to hit center case. be hard to do otherwise.
it might be old hard assembly grease. (factory used zero)

yes i grease the front with brake grease , and rear with any think grease. (wheel bearing is best)

seem previous owner did some odd things there, that might be all grease
or ran some very odd, transmission lube that was red. (sure seal failed)
may be he mixed GL4 and ATF in a toxic mess?


you lost that (went bad) lower rear( right side in photo) bearing here. got lose
my guess is seal then failed there as the gear there, went bouncy and spin damage there.
then filled the center case up. with my GL4 who knows..

cheers.

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5th gear , rear seal is a plug, and can fall out. if the bearing goes wild (out of control)

[GeoHacker]

outside usa the serial is missing on trans or lacks year.
is this usa trans?

I think so.

the top flange of bell is stamped, no sticker is hand (or machine)stamped

Has a 59B R-1 stamped below the lever, only stamping I can see.

ran some very odd, transmission lube that was red. (sure seal failed)
may be he mixed GL4 and ATF in a toxic mess?

I think I took this to Jiffy Lube or some place like that in CA before I moved here. I used to have red oil leaks like that after, for a while. I think they overfilled the thing. Usually though any leaks were up under front universal case. So if they used that same crud in the others…would explain some things.

5th gear , rear seal is a plug, and can fall out. if the bearing goes wild (out of control)

Hopefully my bearing won't go wonky…though I do worry about the main shaft end one, since you have to rubber mallet on things a little to seat the case on, and get the bearing set inside those areas. But all is tight and nice wiggle wise, that's for sure.

I went out and got 3 transfer case seals so I don't have to worry about leaks so much. Installing now.

r

[fixkick]

the serial on all 5speeds are on the top apex flange of the bell. the highest point, if not , its a NON USA trans. its a stamping , not "cast in place" nor a sticker.
it is stamp exactly like the engine serial on the left side if engine bell mount.

jiffy lubes are bad.
they just blast in the lube with no considerations at all as to how its done right.
some use AIR pressure fills. stupid to the extreme as that can blast your seal PLUG behind the 5th gear, into the center casing.! or just dislodge it enough to make it leak.
and use the wrong lube too. using the wrong lube can cause the synrhos to go tad nuts. and drag; (GL5s can do that)

jiffy also likes to use the air blaster on engine oil, this blasts oil past the PCV and drains down the lower intake running to the lowest cylinder.
and fills said cylinder with oil, it hyrdalocks IT, and the rod bends. next crank up. (if lucky the starter just stalls)
infamous stories... use a real shop that knows how to fill a box...

yes there are many colors of GL4 /5 sold today, its perplexing why.
some syn lubes are pure clear. in the box. my jeep had that out of factory.

[GeoHacker]

the serial on all 5speeds are on the top apex flange of the bell. the highest point, if not , its a NON USA trans. its a stamping , not "cast in place" nor a sticker.
it is stamp exactly like the engine serial on the left side if engine bell mount.

Stickers (2 of them at that slot up top, no stamps) say:

M21 *V6130008282* 077

*T61N248457* 077

I got the Transfer case seals in. Feel lots better, got to clean up the shaft there in seal area. Lot of dried grease on old seal but was not really red, however that red stuff had hardened on the transfer input shaft seal area. Good to be gone.

Since it surely has been causing my oil leak horrors down below, I have 2 O-rings on order for distributor shaft and attach, that's the next grime job. Thanks for the parts numbers on your page. There's a person in CA sells the OEM Suzuki originals on ebay (not cheap though) Mine were $18 for both, shipped (crazy prices, but if they last longer…)

If you have a Samurai, you can get a set of non-OEM Nitrile 70 distributor and mount o-rings for $5.70 shipped. Wasn't sure if would work on the 92 Tracker.

Trans will be one unit again by tonight, ready for re-mounting. { Phewww }

r

[fixkick]

i have the viton cheap o-rings here.

the 16v base ring , this fits for 70 cents... and will last forever.
http://www.oringsusa.com/catalog/product...lto0hlfva0

[GeoHacker]

i have the viton cheap o-rings here.

the 16v base ring , this fits for 70 cents... and will last forever.
http://www.oringsusa.com/catalog/product...lto0hlfva0

Thanks for the link. Mine is the 8v, so guess am out of luck.

Got the flywheel off, no problems, jig worked nice (pictured earlier).

Rear main seal, as predicted, is not leaking. The oil is coming from above, valve cover and distributor.

There is some kind of a totally rotting/worn out foam that seemed to be on top edge of that sheet metal splash guard piece at bottom of engine right behind flywheel.

Wondering: Is that foam an OEM part thing, or is that a DIY to replace? Profile wise, looks kind of like an inverted U-shaped flat foam that slips over the top edge, like some kind of an oil soak-up or sealer helper. I think it's old foam. When it's light again, I'll make sure it isn't congealed gunk and burnt carbon, and take a picture.