1996 Geo Tracker Weark Spark

[sina27]

Hey guys
I have a 1996 geo tracker 16v MFI, 2WD 5 speed. 

I have a new CAT but I'm failing smog in California due to high HC. Everything else on the smog report is passing with flying colors. 
I've put in new spark plugs and wires, new sensors, new dizzy, did timing, etc....I think its running rich during idle only...which is why Im seeing high HC on the "15mph" smog report. 
A mechanic told me based off the smog numbers that it could be because my spark is weak. 

I tested a plug for spark engine cranking, and it looks like the plug is firing weak (I see an orange / yellow spark - not a bright white / blue spark). 
So I changed my distributor with a new one...same thing. The dizzy has the integrated coil and ingiter, so I assumed that would fix  my problem, but nope!
I also changed the CAS sensor under the oil pan. NO LUCK.

What else could be causing weak spark? Noise Supressor Filter??  I have NGK plug wires which are 6 months old so I dont think its that. 

Could it be the alternator not producing enough current? During idl, the battery reads 14.3 volts, so my alternator is good - right?

[jwunsch]

Charging voltage is related to ambient / battery temperature and how much load you get from electronics.

https://www.powerstream.com/SLA.htm

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/faulty...uick-test/

14,3V is not bad.

Check your battery voltage in rest and say power on & lights on.

If you get somewhere between 12,5 - 12,7V at rest and above 12V with lights on, its definitely not the battery.

https://www.energymatters.com.au/battery...discharge/

Looking into your previous post you have kind of tried almost about everything. High HC anyways should mean that some fuel does not get burnt and goes to exhaust (and that will eventually kill your new CAT).

You had already your valves adjusted and only other possibilities there would be weak spring or not sealing correctly, but as your spark seems low I would continue investigating that and leave the valves to the time you have checked everything imaginable on electronics.

You did not mention how much your car mileage is. Mine has 250 000km which is approx 155 000 miles. Mine is running with original valves, just some adjustments and replaced cylinder head cover at 242k (it had hole burnt there for one cylinder.. no idea what happened when it was with previous owner). 

==

I have been told Geo Tracker / Vitara has quite shit groundings. So I would search the site for electrical wiring diagrams and check & clean all groundings. I have been especially told to always disconnect battery before any welding as the shit groundings will cause problems, even blow the ecu.

Mine had several shit groundings for lights, trailer connector and fuel pump (corrosion). There is still one for wipers, or their wires them selves are shit. Also some of the wire connectors on my car are bust. I had to replace connector for rear fog light and fuel gauge at rear end of the car. 

If my wipers are on mist I cant start I just hear the solenoid and/or starter doing sound like drill with hammer function on. Mist setting works just fine after car is started up. Haven't yet had time to figure out where/what that is.. I just found a fist sized new hole and I cant pass inspection until I cut some rusty steel away and weld new one, so again the mist settings is last on my list. :/

So in addition to bad grounds you could have bad connectors. Pain to find as nobody probably knows what the resistance should be between front and rear for some wiring set. So easiest to start with grounds I suppose.

= Bit non related FYI crap.

I have cheated our smoke test by blending E85 with 95E10 before going to the test, but I would NEVER do that when the spark looks bad, as you need more fuel that has less energy its probably no-go with weak spark. Probably just floods engine and eventually CAT.

Also I have no idea how much this car can take it. I know Saab 900 non turbo can go with 50:50 mix, but its different for different cars/engines, and how much ECU allows or injectors can give more fuel until ECU goes out of normal tuning range and thinks its a fault -> Check engine light ON. Or if you have too much E85 there is no idle at all, need to press pedal to run.. or won't even start.

Idea here in that is to burn less gasoline and more ethanol which is cleaner -> gets lower values for pollution. In your situation there probably is no mix which would allow the car to run and pass the test. :/


I guess I will shut up after this post or fixkick will kick me out from the forum

[fixkick]

Hey guys
I have a 1996 geo tracker 16v MFI, 2WD 5 speed. 

I have a new CAT but I'm failing smog in California due to high HC. Everything else on the smog report is passing with flying colors. 
I've put in new spark plugs and wires, new sensors, new dizzy, did timing, etc....I think its running rich during idle only...which is why Im seeing high HC on the "15mph" smog report. 
A mechanic told me based off the smog numbers that it could be because my spark is weak. 

I tested a plug for spark engine cranking, and it looks like the plug is firing weak (I see an orange / yellow spark - not a bright white / blue spark). 
So I changed my distributor with a new one...same thing. The dizzy has the integrated coil and ingiter, so I assumed that would fix  my problem, but nope!
I also changed the CAS sensor under the oil pan. NO LUCK.

What else could be causing weak spark? Noise Supressor Filter??  I have NGK plug wires which are 6 months old so I dont think its that. 


Could it be the alternator not producing enough current? During idl, the battery reads 14.3 volts, so my alternator is good - right?

NGK gappped to 0.028" not factory 0.045 " ever, they must be gapped correctly., this Distrib is not high energy until 1999 . 

well he guessed wrong,  a real mechanic would say he would do tesst to find this problem
not done, is the thermostat new?  and water temp at 180f all the time warm engine?   scan tool,  ECT 180f or more. never less.
at idle is ECU in closed loop at ECT= 180f? and if you race idle to say 2000 RPM and hold it there with rock steady right foot , Closed loop (CL) active, if not that is bad running.
and if is open loop hot at idle or at 2000 rpm that  is, bad, sure it can fail smog.
are all smog,  statuses time out,  and CEL lamp only glows key on and never running./
there is lots more,  and are not guessing it is testing for each case using tool, any ASE shop knows these steps.
1: engine passes compression test, 180 psi,  x4.
spec is (new) The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in  FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1)  Facts.
if way low the cam belt has slipped. do run this over 60k miles and then it slips?  retarded cam wastes a ton of fuel and make ECU go mad. (try to make bad good)
2:injector leakdown test, if they leak they will fail smog.  (pro clean them?)
3: spark timing way off not using the timing freeze jumper?
4: bad front O2 sensor , never swings and never goes to closed loop, (rear 02 does not set mixture, it only checks cat for good cat)
5: exhaust leaks anywhere near (2ft) of the O2 Front sensor,  I use  scan tool real that I can loop the o2, scan test and see it swing correctly at about 6times second (closedloop) and NOT OFFSET,  to lean. of you have leaks it goes way lean and ECU injects huge rich  wrong, (02 sensor must not lie or the ECU will inject wrong.
6: bad maf, or china cloned maf put here, and is hopeless as can be,  the stock maF has a number on the side. 13800-58B00
never seen a good clone from china ever, me. all are crap, pure.  best rebuild is from Cardone 1. USA (prime source )  my MAF test page covers all that in depth. fixkick.com
http://fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/92-9...sting.html
7: FPR is bad,  this is super common now. 26 year  old FPR, think the millions of times the poor diaphragm flexed for 26 year, how can it be good well the test is easy .
 
using a vacuum hand tool and fuel pressure  gauge or just the FP gauge. my FPR page is here , easy test.
in the same vein,  fuel pressure not correct, even stuck at 50psi  is dead to rights wrong, FPR bad , return ling clogged or wrong fuel pump on car off a V8 engine? one guy here had crown victory pump mounted outside the fuel tank and gets 15mpg. all the time and red not glowing cat,  he removed after it melted, so yah, lots old cars have wrong parts. dead wrong./

http://fixkick.com/sensors/tests/FPress-reg1.html
2 tests,  keyon no start and idle PSI of both pass the PFR is good, and at idle it must not surge PSI and the vacuum nipple must never leak fuel.

8:  a real shop after all the above  would measure HC before the CAT and after, to see if the engine is super rich so bad no cat on earth can eat  up that HC raw fuel.
he puts a tap in the  front header. exh..(tHAT DOES NO LEAK AIR) KEEP IN MIND THE EXHAUST BLOWS AND SUCKS, AT EACH CYLINDER FIRE,  

9: SCAN TOOLS,  ALL HAVE WHAT IS CALLED A BUTTON CALLED PENDINGS, no P03XX CODES THERE, NONE!
AND O2 SCAN,  acts like a 02 meter. and show the 02 signal (front swing like this)


like this, at hot idle or at light cruise, or just in Neutral, 2000 rpm hot this is closed loop seen LIVE
ors/O2%20sensor/O2b1s1.jpg

good luck and cheers./

[fixkick]

my web site has the bad grounds page. and covers 1996 full.
ever see that?
seen hear

http://fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/common-failures.html

16 VALVE MOTOR BODY: 1996 column I made
all things on that page is to make engine run perfect, ECU ,fuel pump, spark and ALL. Engine runs good topic.
even real photos of top failure points ground and the lame fuse box underhood that loves to eat road salt and water. are you in the rust belt (means salted roads)

miles on engine are?
fuel filter not clogged,as most are ignored.
air filter not home of some rodents. seen that too, blocking air follows,