Missing oil pressure switch?

[fixkick]

the hard call (for sure not mine)
is what will fail next. ?
but hoses seems it.
we have great jokes here for 13 years, on these cars
one is ,
gee, i replaced all parts on the car but the frame rails ..... and almost runs good.

lots of truth in the joke, and is why so good.

[fixkick]

this web site 13years old is for wide screens (hint frozen for 13 years)
If using  silly cell phone that will be hard,  for sure the huge schematics, and for sure all FSM pages.
all pages for your car are in paper , no PDF then.
so all pages are HUGE due to 8.5 x11" pages in a real book.  back then no CD books and for sure DVD> then. just paper.
only one guy make a PDF , seen in POST #1 on this forum.  just 1996. (and 1 link there to foreign manuals)
the blue words are links, HTML links that have said pages.

I have over 50,000 photos or more of suzuki parts, and documents here, vast here. (and real EPC, electronic Parts cat) and more. most I even forget now,but have.
I am willing to help  with those docs,

as seen above,  the FSM is best , buy one used on EBAY,  Factory service manual for GEO or Suzuzki, real not fake, by fake I mean those CHILL_TONS covering 10 years in toxic mix;.
real from the 2 car makers, nothing is better. sure it does not teach car repair, but has ALL known facts there, data, drawings and specs and vastly more.

Some problems are not easy to cure today. some parts are not sold at all.

[z1joshmon]

LOL my frame rails are fantastic indeed!! haha 

and yes I went thru on my laptop and really paid attention and have re-read a lot of what you wrote me and I have it down now and understand in full what you've explained thus far (still learning though). At this point I have gotten everything together and just need to do it (off this weekend! woo!)

I bought the thermostat a few hours ago ($5, got a Stant 180* as you indicated..) and the gaskets came separately but I ordered both the 1mm paper gasket and the 5mm rubber o-ring and get them after 4pm (went with the fel-pro, they cost a little more but neither was expensive by any means). Then I got myself some ultra blue permatex gasket maker that I was told I can also use on my valve cover gasket later. I also went ahead and got myself a gallon of pure antifreeze that I will mix myself into 50/50 and get an extra gallon for $2 extra.

I am doing it tomorrow. :-) I will MAKE SURE bleed hole forward, wax side down if needed, thermostat not upside down OR wrong gasket floating. I'll make sure enough coolant IN THE RADIATOR (not just the overflow) to prevent air bubbles and bad temp readings. In fact, even though I've changed thermostats before on other vehicles, I am going to read everything again tonight to MAKE SURE I have everything vehicle-specific down.

Regarding the fuel filter- I am taking it to a mechanic friend with a true shop today to see if he will touch it lol. BUT Like you have said, there is a very real possibility that he won't touch it. If he won't then I am NOT going to take it shop to shop until I can find the first person who is hard up enough to try and then, like you say, possibly man handle and break something. Nah, I KNOW how to do it and you know? I think I am just going to spend the cash that I was going to spend on labor on some newer, better tools to help me get the job done- as well as line stoppers (yea I didnt have those before  I'm not risking anything or skimping on this job though... and a few more jack stands (as I was trying to do this before with it on the ground and almost no clearance). I have been soaking it in Liquid Wrench already and have the bolt/nut for the bracket cleaned up pretty well.

I read about the fuel filter bracket NOT being sold by Suzuki now or ever. I'm going to TRY not to break it. It's more important that the filter be changed though so IF I do happen to break it then I will rig up a bracket very similar to the one currently used. I will also do EVERYTHING That you said including sanding down the banjo connectors to ensure that they are totally clean and not pitted- basically clean it like I would a thermostat housing face to prevent leaks. The WIX fuel filter came with 4 of the little copper washers you've been talking about and I have the process and system absolutely DOWN PAT (thanks to you!).

Now, it's on me. Wish me luck! Even if, like you said, I break the fuel lines or something then I'm committed lol...

Thank you again for the help. Even when I type something into Google and Suzuki-forums pulls up someone going through a similar problem- I'm 99.999% sure that most of the answers I have ever gotten about this car, from here or from those forums, was from YOU.
Also, I'm sorry for the confusion on not recognizing and thus reading the links.. and about posting pictures BUT I have it down now and can communicate a bit more effectively 

I will update on Sunday! - Josh

P.S. I have found your "grounds" page and will check and clean those when I'm fixing the back up lights on my "bulbs/wiring/dash/cleaning" jobs coming up soon. Also, since essentially the lamp doesn't tell me that the oil pressure is low until it's too late anyways- AND there is a risk of metal shavings into my oil gallery as a result of what the PO did.. I am really hesitant of pulling that plug out of that block. It's not leaking, just missing, so I am going to at least put it off and get everything performance or inspection related done first.

[z1joshmon]

Phew, you had me scared but i got the fuel filter swapped out! I also didn't break, and still have, the original fuel filter bracket! I am so glad that you emphasized to me how this thing likes to leak or my buddy and i would have had a ton more trouble! I took ur advice and if i hadn't...mm.

So..It leaked the first 2 times despite the banjo connector faces being really smooth actually (because im the first person to see them since the CAMI plant worker lol..) Both times it leaked on the same side and when i redid it I switched the copper washer from inside to outside and the leak moved with the washer. So i took one of the older ones and sanded it down well then tried it (while my buddy sanded the other, new, one). No need cuz it worked! I tested it and have driven it..no leaks. Still going to keep an eye out on it.

The performance increase is noticeable already. No more slight sputtering or bogging down feeling while going uphill (not losing rpms uphill and can actually accelerate not just hold speed, at best).

Thank you so much for the advice you've given me. :-) now today..well Saturday.. I am changing out that thermostat!

From here on out, since weve identified the problem with my oil pressure sender switch: i am going to post on my other CEL thread so that i dont have 2 threads going for one car's cumulative problems. So i will post how things went after i get my ' stat changed out.

[fixkick]

good to hear you are making progress ! very good.
did not want to scare you  on Banjo hell I call it but is  important to know going in, those rims on the banjo's are only 1/6" wide and if rust happens big big trouble.
I greased mine after at and after assembly to not ever see rust there.
yes I thing the filter from suzuki comes with 4 new copper washers,  as the old ones will crap, one can mill those old ones down too by hand sure can, done many in pinch even deep in the woods, one leaking. copper is easy to hand mill, soft metal and I see you did and bravo that !!!
when any filter is pulled, we dump the contents to a pan.
we can see this.
1: just gas.
2: gas + rust dust
3:gas + rust huge chunks
4: gas + red fungus. yes, that too happens if tank is full of water and car parked in the rain, no gas cap on car. nasty this is and very hard fix.
we call those SIGNS!  (if true the filter packs up again)
the  injector has 10micron filter "screens" that way smaller that a good 40micron fuel filter, so those can packup too.(injector)

These old cars love to rust the top of tank, and even collapse. for sure snow on top full of road salt from the rust belt.

I see you are on TRACK with 2 gaskets, now that is the way to go, going in.
cheers to you .

[fixkick]

and lands here, (rust)

here is the 10micron screens, TBI, and note how easy to see them and clean them,
the 16v can not be seen, only back-flow ultrasonic cleaned, (I see top shops doing that are backlogged a month now due to kungFLu19) wow that is bad.
also the 2 o-rings here can leak , even crack this old. but the test is easy. on TBI super easy
horn off top of TB person 1 and 2, person 1, starts engine, then with p2, looking at the injector, p1 keys off and the injector must NOT LEAK FUEL at the tip or at the 2 orings inside, (3 places to leak)

[fixkick]

what we do is assume all is bad, then prove otherwise.
for old cars, ? for SURE.
EFI needs clean fuel, that is top of the list thing. and any sign of bad fuel with rust, is huge clue.
no DTC errors.(ecu CEL flash codes) DLC jumper clip checked.code 12 is happy code, others are not.
no vacuum leaks.
sensors working right, even 02 not shorted, and stuck at 0vdc. & ECT reads 300 ohms hot. not 3000, (0.3K is = 300)
ECU does not have bad CAPS (so reCAP it) or see burn marks inside ECU.
engine compression over 150psi. not 80.
injectors leaking clogged. TBI has but 1 injector,
water temp 180f or more.
hot idle 800rpm
engine not misfiring. nor gross 80HP power loss. misifire or bogging (lean burn) both kill power.
cam belt not 100k old, and not frayed. 60k is spec life time, replaced before failure, not dead car in road.
vacuum hoses not leaking or things on end of hose not leaking air. (PCV hose good. too it sucks crank case fumes, and must be G16 sized, not off some V8 engine)

[z1joshmon]

ooh thank you so much for the advice on cleaning the fuel injector! I took your advice and read up on TBI (and EFI in general) and I have a better understanding of it now. I'm going to do the 'drip test' there that you showed me (I think it's called?) ASAP. I also saw your page about "snake oil" so what I did, since I don't have time this week, is put some of the Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner in with my gas just until I can get in there.

I DID pour the contents of the fuel filter out actually and it was the #2 option that you wrote: and it only had gas and a little rust, surprisingly, no chunks! I was very happy at that. With this fix, it stopped losing RPM's while going uphill but I still feel just a tiny bit of a bogging down.. I'll get to that in a minute.

I also changed out the thermostat and WOW the difference that it's making! Instead of JUST getting up to the "C" at its warmest- it's sitting just short of halfway up (where it should be, in operating range!). I didn't flush it all of the way but I drained the radiator all of the way and filled it back up with more of the green anti freeze since I didn't know when the last time someone put antifreeze in PLUS I know that the silicates in particular can 'wear out' after about a year, or 10k miles. The O'Reilly guy actually tried to sell me the yellow Universal stuff- and I just didn't feel comfortable mixing them because I knew I wouldn't be flushing it entirely. I know that green+orange (conventional phosphate/silicate vs organic acid OAT stuff) can actually cause gelling of the liquid and god knows what problems down the road from that- and I know that a lot of the universal stuff is actually hybrid-OAT so I didn't risk it and stayed with the green stuff that it calls for. Once I saw that it is for sure getting up to temperature, I checked the ECT and it is sitting right at 300ohms when at 180* as it should :-). Also, JUST FOR THE RECORD FOR ANYONE READING THIS: IT TOOK THE 5MM RUBBER O-RING (1993 2dr 1.6L 8v TBI w/ 3sp auto and on-demand 4x4).

Also.. I am not smelling fuel in exhaust anymore (which tells me that because I fixed 'stat : it is NOT staying in WARM UP mode like it probably was before and therefore not running rich) BUT I am still smelling a little bit of exhaust when I let off of the gas and coast to a stop sign, ESPECIALLY if after a hill. I am really suspecting that the different things like running rich from being too cool, plus it looked like the PO just recently changed the O2 sensor AND muffler- and just the number of little things that I've fixed that were wrong- I am REALLY thinking that the catalytic converter may be clogged. I hear the little bit of a rattle when I first start up and when I'm backing out. Also, it is the only piece on my entire exhaust system that is rusty... the shield for the Cat looks fine but the pipes attached to it are rusty so I am going to take the CAT off and inspect it visually. I'll also hit it gently with a rubber mallet. I'm also going to test the temperature going in and the temperature going out. If I go to fix it, I am thinking that I'll just buy the pre-fabricated CAT that includes the piping that is rusty on mine. Otherwise I'll have to buy just the CAT and pay someone to cut the old one off and weld the new one on... and even then the old pipe may have a hole that I haven't spotted yet and it's rusty. So, while "ouch" on the price- it's the right thing to do provided that it IS clogged up a bit like I suspect. That exhaust when I let off of the gas- it just feels like excessive back pressure from a progressively more clogged cat (from running rich while it was cold).

Other problem I noticed- when inspecting the PRNDL spindle because I'm going to fix my back up lights sometime soon- I noticed that I indeed DO have oil seeping down slowly from the back of my engine onto my bell housing for the transmission. I inspected the Valve Cover Gasket a few weeks back and it's DEFINITELY not good BUT your warnings about the Distributor O-Ring going bad got me to look and it's bad for sure back there. I noticed that I will be able to get to the O-Ring relatively easy with the valve cover, in-take and air filter housing pulled off... but do you have any advice on when I change my valve cover gasket and distributor o-ring? I know that if I don't put the distributor back in EXACTLY as it was that it can cause my ignition timing to go out of whack. I have a shade tree friend with a little experience BUT is this something that I can do myself with the reasonable expectation of not messing things up too badly? If I need to get a pro to handle this then it wouldn't hurt my feelings too awful badly.I'm also thinking that while I have everything pulled out- I will hand-clean my throttle body. Is there anything else that I should fix or replace while I've got the valve cover off and I'm fixing that gasket plus the distributor o-ring ?

Other than that- which will essentially fix EVERYTHING that I had wrong.. I only have to worry about the ball joints, lower control arm bushings and then of course some new tires. I'm going to do that one myself as well (I'm getting a 2nd, back up set of jack stands for extra safety). Any advice on that job as well?

[z1joshmon]

thank you again for helping me get this beautiful little truck back to good running order. This car was owned by someone who took GREAT care of it from the time they got it until about 210,000 miles- but then had to sell it and the 2nd owner just drove the crap out of it.. he put about 10,000 miles on it and didn't do a thing to it except change the oil (if he even did that to be honest. maybe when he got it, cuz I saw what the oil looked like and the filter was way over-torqued).

So when I got it.. it "ran good" but was NOT SAFE as far as suspension/steering/braking goes. Then once I got that fixed and was able to focus on just how "good" it was running- I found basically the cheapest part of each system.. the stuff that needs to be replaced every 20,000 30,000 or 50,000 miles... had been neglected. Brake caliper, CV axle, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, spark plugs weren't terrible but the wires were awful, it needed a new battery, fuel filter was original LOL, hoses and seals, stuff like that just got neglected.

Anyways thanks to YOUR HELP I have been able to get and keep my car SAFE and then also in good running order. I'm a nurse so I have been having to go to work despite this kung FLu19 as you called it (LOL aint that the truth too! clever and hilarious how you capitalized the FL in the flu..cuz of florida... or maybe I think too much haha. but I also have called it the kung flu because of its origin from china). So, if it means anything, you have helped (can't mention details but) a kid who is bedridden and can't get around- you have helped get his best friend and nurse to his house at a time when it's pretty scary for him. So, thank you so much for helping me...

Also, thank you for the check list that you gave me on the last comment. I have it written down and will go thru each and every one of those things to ensure.

Josh

OH P.S. I got my buddy to torque the 17mm crankshaft pulley bolt to 94ft/lbs torque :-) I forgot to mention it but I am also going to change the TIMING BELT BEFORE IT GOES BAD (as you have mentioned! going with a GATES as well) but I'm going to wait to do that until after the existing repairs that are causing damage or causing leaks.. are fixed. I will probably get everything that I need, done, this year and then change the timing belt out first thing in spring.

P.P.S. when I do the ball joints- are the lower control arm bushings that much harder to reach? Admittedly, I need to read on that subject a bit more. Once I do this- and rotors, I will literally have nothing left to replace on the front end. It was really rough when I got it. The rear seems to have been worked on by the original PO (who also changed everything in exhaust except for the manifold and the cat)..but it has new shocks n struts and the way it behaves.. the rear wheel bearings aren't bad (thank god.. I saw they're hard to find).. so after this ball joint job I will have everything done involving steering/suspension/braking :-) and at that point I can focus on accessory and peripheral devices that go bad before the engine will.

[fixkick]

ooh thank you so much for the advice on cleaning the fuel injector! I took your advice and read up on TBI (and EFI in general) and I have a better understanding of it now. I'm going to do the 'drip test' there that you showed me (I think it's called?) ASAP. I also saw your page about "snake oil" so what I did, since I don't have time this week, is put some of the Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner in with my gas just until I can get in there.

I DID pour the contents of the fuel filter out actually and it was the #2 option that you wrote: and it only had gas and a little rust, surprisingly, no chunks! I was very happy at that. With this fix, it stopped losing RPM's while going uphill but I still feel just a tiny bit of a bogging down.. I'll get to that in a minute.

I also changed out the thermostat and WOW the difference that it's making! Instead of JUST getting up to the "C" at its warmest- it's sitting just short of halfway up (where it should be, in operating range!). I didn't flush it all of the way but I drained the radiator all of the way and filled it back up with more of the green anti freeze since I didn't know when the last time someone put antifreeze in PLUS I know that the silicates in particular can 'wear out' after about a year, or 10k miles. The O'Reilly guy actually tried to sell me the yellow Universal stuff- and I just didn't feel comfortable mixing them because I knew I wouldn't be flushing it entirely. I know that green+orange (conventional phosphate/silicate vs organic acid OAT stuff) can actually cause gelling of the liquid and god knows what problems down the road from that- and I know that a lot of the universal stuff is actually hybrid-OAT so I didn't risk it and stayed with the green stuff that it calls for. Once I saw that it is for sure getting up to temperature, I checked the ECT and it is sitting right at 300ohms when at 180* as it should :-). Also, JUST FOR THE RECORD FOR ANYONE READING THIS: IT TOOK THE 5MM RUBBER O-RING (1993 2dr 1.6L 8v TBI w/ 3sp auto and on-demand 4x4).

Also.. I am not smelling fuel in exhaust anymore (which tells me that because I fixed 'stat : it is NOT staying in WARM UP mode like it probably was before and therefore not running rich) BUT I am still smelling a little bit of exhaust when I let off of the gas and coast to a stop sign, ESPECIALLY if after a hill. I am really suspecting that the different things like running rich from being too cool, plus it looked like the PO just recently changed the O2 sensor AND muffler- and just the number of little things that I've fixed that were wrong- I am REALLY thinking that the catalytic converter may be clogged. I hear the little bit of a rattle when I first start up and when I'm backing out. Also, it is the only piece on my entire exhaust system that is rusty... the shield for the Cat looks fine but the pipes attached to it are rusty so I am going to take the CAT off and inspect it visually. I'll also hit it gently with a rubber mallet. I'm also going to test the temperature going in and the temperature going out. If I go to fix it, I am thinking that I'll just buy the pre-fabricated CAT that includes the piping that is rusty on mine. Otherwise I'll have to buy just the CAT and pay someone to cut the old one off and weld the new one on... and even then the old pipe may have a hole that I haven't spotted yet and it's rusty. So, while "ouch" on the price- it's the right thing to do provided that it IS clogged up a bit like I suspect. That exhaust when I let off of the gas- it just feels like excessive back pressure from a progressively more clogged cat (from running rich while it was cold).

Other problem I noticed- when inspecting the PRNDL spindle because I'm going to fix my back up lights sometime soon- I noticed that I indeed DO have oil seeping down slowly from the back of my engine onto my bell housing for the transmission. I inspected the Valve Cover Gasket a few weeks back and it's DEFINITELY not good BUT your warnings about the Distributor O-Ring going bad got me to look and it's bad for sure back there. I noticed that I will be able to get to the O-Ring relatively easy with the valve cover, in-take and air filter housing pulled off... but do you have any advice on when I change my valve cover gasket and distributor o-ring? I know that if I don't put the distributor back in EXACTLY as it was that it can cause my ignition timing to go out of whack. I have a shade tree friend with a little experience BUT is this something that I can do myself with the reasonable expectation of not messing things up too badly? If I need to get a pro to handle this then it wouldn't hurt my feelings too awful badly.I'm also thinking that while I have everything pulled out- I will hand-clean my throttle body. Is there anything else that I should fix or replace while I've got the valve cover off and I'm fixing that gasket plus the distributor o-ring ?

Other than that- which will essentially fix EVERYTHING that I had wrong.. I only have to worry about the ball joints, lower control arm bushings and then of course some new tires. I'm going to do that one myself as well (I'm getting a 2nd, back up set of jack stands for extra safety). Any advice on that job as well?

all of this above top is just what is called a tune up
engine is good for 300k miles if well cared for, even more,
a tuneup (now called DOING SERVICE POINTS) is replacing parts before they fail, many parts do not last 300k miles, even tires fail.
fluids, belts /brakes.
spark plugs wires, spark plugs and filters.
all must be changed out, before they fail or risk getting stranded. (tow trucks are not cheap)


The thermostat as  life span of 7 years,  not 30.  (some do not fail hard first they get slow, and the EFI does not like a slow STAT, and any slow stat is a clear warning of soon to go dead thermostat and next up overheating and warped head as the door prize.)

The antifreeze now has newer longer lasting  additives, this is by law now,  by law it must last longer, and is not HYPE, USA fed law, so can go 25k -50k miles
really it is driving cycles too.
when you start a car, the coolant is explosed to fumes from the combustion chamber, (very tiny) years ago it was sulfer from fuel now GONE so new fuel also
makes antifreeze additives fail soon.
The law want to see less antifreeze in lakes and streams, that is the goal. and does work.
it is very toxic.
you can run any antifreeze you want here, only costs are different and how long it lasts.
The new thermostat will now allow the EFI to actually work now.

infact that bad STAT wrecked the CAT, long ago , in fact with good cat and bad stat the CAT runs red hot and then wrecks it self.
$7 STAT wrecked a $150 CAT, or more for sure more labor on CAT swap not free.
on the 96 cars (your and all) the CEL blinks and the book tells you (glovebox) the CAT is being wrecked. and what to do..
OBD2 does that magic blink CEL (not a code just blinks endless)

OBD2 would would set DTC for slow or dead STAT. for sure.

that is why on old cars we use IR thermal gun to see that fail in seconds work.  (no scan tool works on OBD1 suzuki cars,OTC tools, ZERO)


sounds to me like lots of progress,  a generic cat will work sized for 1.6L - 2 Liters. any can be welded in super easy by any welder. (muffler shops easy)

no gaskets on this car are good but one, the one on the pan is glued on with pure RTV sealant no gasket there, out of any suzuki factory world wide.
the VC gasket is  simple job. do not over torque bolts  there.

the distrib must not lose time,  do not do this wrong or you  will no like how tricky it is to set up, like in 1920s to 1970, cars had distribs and same story.
here are  the steps, saving hard work. 8valve. keys in pocket, for sure. keep all keys away from other persons in home.... for all this....

1: turn the crank shaft until TDC 0  is landed, (pointer) and with distrib cap off first and at same time get rotor to land on spark plug wire cap term #1 not #4
that is magic firing #1 TDC set up.

2: now with center punch or a Sharpee pen fine line maker , mark this.

see this photo I have marked, #1 spark wire, #1 is front cylinder on all these cars.
see that slotted, bolt (missing) clamp point.  this is the base clamp timing set.
there is bolt there now, so put dot on center of bolt head the one more dot on flange just  below here. that is called MATCH MARKING PARTS.
see end of this page for last steps.


last:  pull dizzy,  put on new orings, put dizzy back cap off and as you DROP the Dizzy the rotor wants to turn 13tooth spiral cut gear on bottom
so the goal is get the rotor back on #1 per above photo
and get the bolt back and aligned to your MATCH MARKS.

2 things align here, rotor tip to with paint above(liquid paper paint) and the match markes on the bolt and base, all at once.
drop the dizzy many times it takes to get both aligned correctly as as marked by you, step 1.