Clutch Release Shaft

[sina27]

Hello,

I have a 1996 geo tracker 2WD 5speed. I plan on replacing the clutch, which is something I've never done before.

Sometimes when I press the clutch in and out, I hear a weird "friction" sound - I found out that the sound is coming from improper contact from the clutch release shaft
and the bell housing. The clutch release shaft (part 5) has a seal (part 7), which likes to slide out, causing the shaft to grind against the metal housing. I think over time
the shaft got warped, and its possible that the housing itself is compromised. 
I also noticed, that the "alignment" mark on the shaft, is not vertical where it should be. Whoever replaced the clutch last on my car made an artificial marking, which isn't there anymore, so I can't put the clutch release lever on accurately bu aligning the two marks together. 

I would like to replace the clutch release shaft, the seals, spring, clutch release forks, and other affiliated components while I'm replacing the clutch

Since I've never replaced a clutch before, I'm wondering if it would be easy to replaced the clutch release shaft during the process. For the clutch job, I was planning  on following the guide on FixKick's site (using the jackstand method). Using this method, would I be able to just remove the bell housing from the transmission to replace the shaft and affiliated components?
When replacing the shaft, how do I align the index mark in relation to the bell housing? I couldnt find any online sources explaining the process,. 

Does anyone know the best place to purchase a new clutch release shaft? And what about a bell housing (if I need to replace it)

Here is the photo I was referencing for the parts (Mine is a 96, so its a tad bit different, I think a 95 is shown)

h.https://imgur.com/a/wp8gKCmtps

[fixkick]

Hello,

I have a 1996 geo tracker 2WD 5speed. I plan on replacing the clutch, which is something I've never done before.

Sometimes when I press the clutch in and out, I hear a weird "friction" sound - I found out that the sound is coming from improper contact from the clutch release shaft
and the bell housing. The clutch release shaft (part 5) has a seal (part 7), which likes to slide out, causing the shaft to grind against the metal housing. I think over time
the shaft got warped, and its possible that the housing itself is compromised. 
I also noticed, that the "alignment" mark on the shaft, is not vertical where it should be. Whoever replaced the clutch last on my car made an artificial marking, which isn't there anymore, so I can't put the clutch release lever on accurately bu aligning the two marks together. 

I would like to replace the clutch release shaft, the seals, spring, clutch release forks, and other affiliated components while I'm replacing the clutch

Since I've never replaced a clutch before, I'm wondering if it would be easy to replaced the clutch release shaft during the process. For the clutch job, I was planning  on following the guide on FixKick's site (using the jackstand method). Using this method, would I be able to just remove the bell housing from the transmission to replace the shaft and affiliated components?
When replacing the shaft, how do I align the index mark in relation to the bell housing? I couldnt find any online sources explaining the process,. 

Does anyone know the best place to purchase a new clutch release shaft? And what about a bell housing (if I need to replace it)

Here is the photo I was referencing for the parts (Mine is a 96, so its a tad bit different, I think a 95 is shown)

h.https://imgur.com/a/wp8gKCmtps

hello and welcome
first off you photo is 1995 not 96, and the 96 has no part #9 seal,   the top of bell and top of trans flange, have serial stamps telling year of parts.

but of course the #1 failure is the cable,  and even cracked pedal, parts.
There are 2 bushings #7 there, in the bell,  only those go bad, mostly. 
these parts are all unique to suzuki (except the cable/actual  clutch)  the only parts are for bell are from
susuki, wreckers or ebay.
what matters inspections, (after  new cable fails.)
that  seal,  not sure how makes this now.  (suzuki may have it) part #9
here are the partsl
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html


suzuki has some .
as seen here. I see the goofy suzuki parts stores took away the drawing now, for parts,  all you get now is a name and partnumber,  making parts buys very very hard.
a backwards evolution there, sad to see. that.

https://suzukiautomotiveparts.com/1996-s..._flywheel/

worse yet they mix 1.8L with 1.6L parts,  that will never work.
no full listings of parts, and with some shown as ,discontinued, now it just  does not list parts. for that.  Suzuki is a real mess. (always has been but now 10x worse)

let me assume these parts are 1996 , seems not but here it the correct drawing now missing at SUZUKI.


1996 is here,  all the p/n are here , none missing, no J18 engine parts, just yours, just G16 engine and bell. etc.


https://imgur.com/25td8bE

[fixkick]

[quote pid='12214' dateline='1572696277']
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when working on old cars, nobody knows what is there, we must look and take them apart, to find ,oops, engine swaps , etc.  there is no other way.
then post photos of a part bad , and I can look them up, I still have the original SUZ books on parts, 1989 to 2004.
I looked up part 7 and 8 and L/R bushing and not stocked by them.  The 96 introduces seal inside the right seal, unlike the 95 older and to be frank, only me looking at the part can I tell.
the long lever shaft,  part id #5 (my 96 drawing)  Suzuki 2326060A00
is in stock.
#10 side lever is stocked. (arm it is not a fork as suzuki calls it now, wrong)
https://suzukiautomotiveparts.com/1997-s...0A00-item/

but #10 was missing on the clutch page list 1 or 2
and with direct parts look up,  by real number they do have the part linked above.   #10 but is listed under X90 only, suzuki 

The car needs to be dismantled, if the cable is new, and the pedal is not cracked, then serial numbers checked up top of bell.

Always change out the cable first 1 hour labor not 20 hour clutch. (4wd is that, 2wd tad less) but depends on TOOLs.
the cables fail INSIDE where no human can ever look,, change it first. and win.

[sina27]

I changed out the clutch cable and #7 bushing a few months back, so I'm really looking for the best way to install clutch shaft #5 during the time I replace the clutch. I'll be following the clutch replacement instructions outlined on your website, so if theres a way for me to replace the shaft #5 during the same time, I'd like to do it. 
The question is would I have to remove the bell housing from the transmission to do this, and when I replace the clutch shaft, how do I align the mark on the shaft vertically in relation to the housing, so when it comes time to put the arm on it would be seamless

[fixkick]

ok, there are only 3ways to get that part, clutch release bearing fork shaft that is,
no 3rd party sells it.makes it, not even china cloner.

1: ebay used. (did you look there first?O)_)
2: wrecking yards (car-parts.com) used
3: actually new from SUZUKI, they do list it. $50? IDK but I told you the PN already , there is only one # for this part seen here https://imgur.com/25td8bE


there is only 1 new source this car has like 3000 parts and most are not sold new, from 3rh parties. ( many parts in the drive line are not sold now)
the clutch main yes,.

[sina27]

Right - 

I'm not really worried about getting the part. When I go to install it, I'm going to replace the bushings on either side. These bushings are plastic / rubber.
What exactly holds the shaft in place if the bushings aren't metal? 
Currently, I'm able to press the shaft in and out (using the shaft itself and the bushing on the driver side), and the shaft wiggles, probably at least a few mm of wiggle. 
Is the TO bearing keeping the shaft in place? 

When I replace the shaft, I'll replace the TO bearing, the shaft spring, and the two bushings. I can;t find any resource or manual explaining the process of how to replace the shaft correctly. 
Is the shaft "self aligning" when you install it with the spring? By this I mean that will the alignment mark on the shaft be correct when I press the shaft in, the alignment mark which is used to install the clutch release lever properly

[fixkick]

ok,  the shaft is side held by those bussing, and yes, they are , nylon. (best guess)
there are springs inside, that break, this old,  the shaft seems to last but never those bushings.
sure the TO bearing is captured in the yoke, on all cars STICK.
when you take it apart you will see all this and is not odd at all for any STICK (try an 88 jeep,something with coaxial hydraulic throwout bearing and cylinder all in one , (ouch)
the shaft only goes in one way, to align to the TOut #4.
the markes are all there, end of shaft and the lever. and must be aliened.

here are the steps, (clearing my head,2007 to now..... tick tick tick,,,,,
1: drop box bell as one to floor.
2: now, remove the Tout. bearing.
3: the shaft is now 100%free, only the bushings can stop you (spring detached right side, facing TOut)
4: the bushing on the left may need to be driving out first, I CAN not remember but do understand this is all normal here, no magic, just shaft held captive by the 5 things inside.

Take the lever off first,  right side of  bell clutch lever. then slide the shaft right (left facing bell) then see end of shaft drop from bell (left) {right facing it}
then the shaft slides  right and out. facing. it. the lever off allows that last action.
this is not in the book because if you were looking at the bell now ,it be obvious they say.
the captive parts are clear,
2 bush.
1 spring.
1 lever.
1 , TOut bearing.

remove the last 3 above. then deal with 2 bushings last,  if a bush needs to be pushed out (left or right do so)  I can not remember if the bushings must pushed out but at that point in time if it dont fall out BINGO push time it is..... I should have done a video on it, I do remember it was,  tiny bit tricky only that. 13 years ago..... I restored 3 kicks then. all are 5sp.

hope that helps you .  good luck ! and happy trails.
btw . if on car fully together , if  you try to move the shaft left and right , it will have free play,  but not up and down that is bad BUSH.
The shaft is auto centered, by actions of the tight fit of the Tout bearing on the TRANNY snout end. 
any play felt L/R would be the TOut fork tangs, or the TOout collapsing as all LOVE TO DO when Bad, 100k miles or more or drivers that right the clutch full time.
This is a WYSIWYG event, you drop the box and go, gee all is ok, or you see,  omg,  the PP cracked and sent flying metal chucks and wrecked the XYZ.(FATE WINS)
No man (mortal) can tell you what will  be then, at the drop, your shop will tell you , more parts may be needed, and is NO LIE.  what will be , WILL BE.

96-98 range, 95 older slightly different, for sure #7 is newer in 96. so if last guy used 95 trans in 96 again WYSIWYG )as are cables super different with lower rubber slip mount! 96+

[sina27]

Thank you so much for the detailed reply. 
When I slide out the transmission, I might as well replace the pilot bearing, TO bearing, and clutch. 
Should I also replace the extension case oil seal and input shaft oil seal while I'm doing all this? 


During the clutch swap, I'll basically be removing the rear drive shaft and sliding the transmission off the clutch, the two seals will be exposed, and I can swap them out easily, correct? 

Also - with the transmission free at this point, theres no need for me to remove the bell housing from the transmission correct? I can replace the clutch release shaft while the bell housing is still connected to the transmission right? 

The person I bought this car off of had the transmission "re manufactured" a few years ago. I took a look on the side of the transmission, and I noticed a VIN number stamped on the transmission, and it matches the VIN number associated with my car, which is a 96 2WD tracker. So I should be on the safe side assuming the transmission is a 96....I hope.

If there is anything else you think I should replace while I do all this just to have a piece of mind let me know

Thanks again

[sina27]

One more thing - 

While I'm replacing the clutch,  if I decide to replace the dizzy base o-ring to prevent leaking, would this throw off my timing? 
I don't have the tools to re-time the car

[fixkick]

Thank you so much for the detailed reply. 
When I slide out the transmission, I might as well replace the pilot bearing, TO bearing, and clutch. 
Should I also replace the extension case oil seal and input shaft oil seal while I'm doing all this? 


During the clutch swap, I'll basically be removing the rear drive shaft and sliding the transmission off the clutch, the two seals will be exposed, and I can swap them out easily, correct? 

Also - with the transmission free at this point, theres no need for me to remove the bell housing from the transmission correct? I can replace the clutch release shaft while the bell housing is still connected to the transmission right? 

The person I bought this car off of had the transmission "re manufactured" a few years ago. I took a look on the side of the transmission, and I noticed a VIN number stamped on the transmission, and it matches the VIN number associated with my car, which is a 96 2WD tracker. So I should be on the safe side assuming the transmission is a 96....I hope.

If there is anything else you think I should replace while I do all this just to have a piece of mind let me know

Thanks again
you are welcome
the engine main seal may be be good but the distributor 2 o-rings well be crap, hard and lifeless and cracked. and leaking like mad, and that leaks finds the
vent in the top of the bell, then runs down back of black and make the crank main seem to leak and is not.  (classic.)


to do the distrib job,  just put the engine pulley at DTC  and distrib rotor pointing to #1 spark wire (front engine is #1)
now remove distrib, do the job the put it back and do not move crank doing so... bingo back in time, the distrib gear is 13 teeth, if the rotor goes back to #1 as  you drop the distrib, you are back in time,

step 1,  not stated above, is put witness marks here. 1995 below , but see that bolt hole, use marks (punch or scribe) to mark exact spot now, in the top edge to bottom mount.
Then  you can get it back wright on the 13th tooth before then last, reAlign back to your first mark. (not timing light  needed) below is the timing adjust, bolt !