(03-24-2020, 02:22 AM)Xoloski Wrote: I am working on a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4-door with a 1.6 - 16 valve engine and manual transmission. When I got this it did not run. I repaired the wallowed out crankshaft key slot with loctite products. Setting up the timing, I;
1) Aligned camshaft gear timing mark “E” at 12:00 position with cylinder 4 at TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam.  
2) Adjusted the valves.
3) Set #1 cylinder to TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam and the crankshaft timing mark at 8 degrees BTDC.
3) Place the distributer into the housing so the rotor is aligned with the number 1 location of the distributor cap, the rotor points to the right side of the distributor adjustment slot.

The engine runs but the crankshaft timing mark, with the advance lock jumper shunt in place, when viewed with a timing light is approximately two inches advanced. The timing does not change with the shunt removed.
I tried to move the distributor one tooth in either direction with no success.

Once the engine heats up, the timing mark moves to 1 inch advanced with the distributor rotated to the extreme. The timing light pick-up placed on cylinder 1. Placing the timing light on other cylinders does not produce a visible timing mark while running. 

I know that, mechanically the timing marks and belt is setup properly. The engine runs.  
I tried the distributor in all three rotor positions, only 1 position works. 
I even replaced the electrolytic capacitors in the ECU and tested for ground continuity. 

What am I missing?

(03-24-2020, 02:22 AM)Xoloski Wrote: I am working on a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4-door with a 1.6 - 16 valve engine and manual transmission. When I got this it did not run. I repaired the wallowed out crankshaft key slot with loctite products. Setting up the timing, I;
1) Aligned camshaft gear timing mark “E” at 12:00 position with cylinder 4 at TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam.  
2) Adjusted the valves.
3) Set #1 cylinder to TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam and the crankshaft timing mark at 8 degrees BTDC.
3) Place the distributer into the housing so the rotor is aligned with the number 1 location of the distributor cap, the rotor points to the right side of the distributor adjustment slot.

The engine runs but the crankshaft timing mark, with the advance lock jumper shunt in place, when viewed with a timing light is approximately two inches advanced. The timing does not change with the shunt removed.
see freeze fail here.  https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML
CEL lamp glows key on, must and goes out running, mUST?
the Shunt only works right if the engine is hot (180f is normal)
and at 800 RPM hot regulated idle
and the TPS idle switch is closed and reads 0vdc. zero volts.
is it?
is the rotor from china and will installed 3ways, or just 1 as it must with real rotors with real, bottom spring clips there FORCING ONE FIT AND ONLY one fit.
The ECU only knows what the CMP in side the Distributor tells it, nothing else. timing wise.
the distributor gear has 13 teeth is planted (engaged ) wrong the distributor base slot will hit. and you can not set sparking ever set wrong (planted) like that.



I tried to move the distributor one tooth in either direction with no success.

Once the engine heats up, the timing mark moves to 1 inch advanced with the distributor rotated to the extreme. The timing light pick-up placed on cylinder 1. Placing the timing light on other cylinders does not produce a visible timing mark while running. 

I know that, mechanically the timing marks and belt is setup properly. The engine runs.  
I tried the distributor in all three rotor positions, only 1 position works.   ( and means the Rotor is C4 grade, China commy cheap crap, C4 we call it.  why buy this crap making an easy job 3 times more hard.? Even might BOSCH had ads for years, saying see your ROTOR FITS, and only OWN WAY,  for years.  sad no? C4 crap.
I even replaced the electrolytic capacitors in the ECU and tested for ground continuity. 

What am I missing?

(03-24-2020, 08:32 AM)fixkick Wrote: the 96 rotor does not fit the  older engine, the JR144 is yours.

not to scare you but China now sells cams with no rear cam gear. (suzuki never did this)

so the shop must get gear pressed back on right or all hell to  pay timing the distributor. 1/2 tooth off OH BOY.

(03-24-2020, 11:42 AM)Xoloski Wrote:

(03-24-2020, 08:32 AM)fixkick Wrote: the 96 rotor does not fit the  older engine, the JR144 is yours.

not to scare you but China now sells cams with no rear cam gear. (suzuki never did this)

so the shop must get gear pressed back on right or all hell to  pay timing the distributor. 1/2 tooth off OH BOY.

Thank you for your help!

I'll check these things out at first opportunity.
The cheap rotor was on the vehicle when I got it.
I'll see if I can find a real one.

(03-24-2020, 08:20 AM)fixkick Wrote:

(03-24-2020, 02:22 AM)Xoloski Wrote: I am working on a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4-door with a 1.6 - 16 valve engine and manual transmission. When I got this it did not run. I repaired the wallowed out crankshaft key slot with loctite products. Setting up the timing, I;
1) Aligned camshaft gear timing mark “E” at 12:00 position with cylinder 4 at TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam.  
2) Adjusted the valves.
3) Set #1 cylinder to TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam and the crankshaft timing mark at 8 degrees BTDC.
3) Place the distributer into the housing so the rotor is aligned with the number 1 location of the distributor cap, the rotor points to the right side of the distributor adjustment slot.

The engine runs but the crankshaft timing mark, with the advance lock jumper shunt in place, when viewed with a timing light is approximately two inches advanced. The timing does not change with the shunt removed.
see freeze fail here.  https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML
CEL lamp glows key on, must and goes out running, mUST?
the Shunt only works right if the engine is hot (180f is normal)
and at 800 RPM hot regulated idle
and the TPS idle switch is closed and reads 0vdc. zero volts.
is it?
is the rotor from china and will installed 3ways, or just 1 as it must with real rotors with real, bottom spring clips there FORCING ONE FIT AND ONLY one fit.
The ECU only knows what the CMP in side the Distributor tells it, nothing else. timing wise.
the distributor gear has 13 teeth is planted (engaged ) wrong the distributor base slot will hit. and you can not set sparking ever set wrong (planted) like that.



I tried to move the distributor one tooth in either direction with no success.

Once the engine heats up, the timing mark moves to 1 inch advanced with the distributor rotated to the extreme. The timing light pick-up placed on cylinder 1. Placing the timing light on other cylinders does not produce a visible timing mark while running. 

I know that, mechanically the timing marks and belt is setup properly. The engine runs.  
I tried the distributor in all three rotor positions, only 1 position works.   ( and means the Rotor is C4 grade, China commy cheap crap, C4 we call it.  why buy this crap making an easy job 3 times more hard.? Even might BOSCH had ads for years, saying see your ROTOR FITS, and only OWN WAY,  for years.  sad no? C4 crap.
I even replaced the electrolytic capacitors in the ECU and tested for ground continuity. 

What am I missing?

first off there is no crank sensor on any G16 engine until 1996 (USA) OBD2 laws when into effect. zero CKP sensors.

what is missing is reading my  timing page. see my ROTOR  and words there.?


see this

(03-24-2020, 08:20 AM)fixkick Wrote:

(03-24-2020, 02:22 AM)Xoloski Wrote: I am working on a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4-door with a 1.6 - 16 valve engine and manual transmission. When I got this it did not run. I repaired the wallowed out crankshaft key slot with loctite products. Setting up the timing, I;
1) Aligned camshaft gear timing mark “E” at 12:00 position with cylinder 4 at TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam.  
2) Adjusted the valves.
3) Set #1 cylinder to TDC as determined by cam lobes being at the heel of the cam and the crankshaft timing mark at 8 degrees BTDC.
3) Place the distributer into the housing so the rotor is aligned with the number 1 location of the distributor cap, the rotor points to the right side of the distributor adjustment slot.

The engine runs but the crankshaft timing mark, with the advance lock jumper shunt in place, when viewed with a timing light is approximately two inches advanced. The timing does not change with the shunt removed.
see freeze fail here.  https://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML
CEL lamp glows key on, must and goes out running, mUST?
the Shunt only works right if the engine is hot (180f is normal)
and at 800 RPM hot regulated idle
and the TPS idle switch is closed and reads 0vdc. zero volts.
is it?
is the rotor from china and will installed 3ways, or just 1 as it must with real rotors with real, bottom spring clips there FORCING ONE FIT AND ONLY one fit.
The ECU only knows what the CMP in side the Distributor tells it, nothing else. timing wise.
the distributor gear has 13 teeth is planted (engaged ) wrong the distributor base slot will hit. and you can not set sparking ever set wrong (planted) like that.



I tried to move the distributor one tooth in either direction with no success.

Once the engine heats up, the timing mark moves to 1 inch advanced with the distributor rotated to the extreme. The timing light pick-up placed on cylinder 1. Placing the timing light on other cylinders does not produce a visible timing mark while running. 

I know that, mechanically the timing marks and belt is setup properly. The engine runs.  
I tried the distributor in all three rotor positions, only 1 position works.   ( and means the Rotor is C4 grade, China commy cheap crap, C4 we call it.  why buy this crap making an easy job 3 times more hard.? Even might BOSCH had ads for years, saying see your ROTOR FITS, and only OWN WAY,  for years.  sad no? C4 crap.
I even replaced the electrolytic capacitors in the ECU and tested for ground continuity. 

What am I missing?

first off there is no crank sensor on any G16 engine until 1996 (USA) OBD2 laws when into effect. zero CKP sensors.

what is missing is reading my  timing page. see my ROTOR  and words there.?


see this