All my Suzuki Sidekick Video's                                                   Me, wheel'n !
   


Maintenance only: just testing the more odd sensors or  actuators  (more tests are here for all sensors)
All are MP4 video's and uses a good  Java engine  run times are short , 5 to 30 seconds, in lengths, unless noted other wise. 1 to 3.4 mByte sized
I talk too fast on  some, but that is to get the video below 3mB in size.
Each video has full controls and a full screen button. (you don't need special software to view these video's.)
  1. Fast Index:  (mostly off car checks)
  2. ISC  (IDLE SPEED control air valve)
  3. Dash Pot (8v G16a) only cold start fast idle vacuum pot (vacuum motor)  No MPI engine (G16B has this device)
  4. Fuel pump regulator  FPreg.
  5. MAF (and A/T stall test per FSM)  MASS AIR FLOW METER. Using OBD2 scan tool way.
  6. CMP  8v cam angle sensor in base of Distributor.  G16B (MPI) is more complex to test. See my dead spark pages.
  7. EGR modulators  Exhaust Gas Recirc. Is a very tricky device, that uses exhaust back pressure.
  8. TPS (the Throttle position sensor, 3 tests)         2    and  
  9. 1.8L clutch slave actions, typical of  all cars with Hydr. Clutch actuator. (slave)  (J18 and J20 engine cars)
  10. Spark plug test , demo. (100 years now , still same test)


ISC  8v or 16v  (idle speed control valve test after cleaning it.  I'm using a 12vdc  battery to open the valve.
Click tests. and stoke test, see stroke? length?  and lips test.   (and opens test and closed tests blowing with lips)
Blow testing it (lips) 12v applied it opens, and not applied, it closes  and can't blow at 0 volts DC.  (tiny leaks are ok ,if excessive, I do tweak the 5mm screw CW just a very tiny bit)
Do limit the ON TIME, 12v to , just a second here,  apply power for 10 seconds max., then let it rest (cool) a minute and try again.  Or  do it like the video.
Just don't leave 12v applied and walk away, it will overheat! and will sustain damage.
If the coil is open , not 6 to 15 ohms, it's a hopeless case. Clean it first and it can leak a bit, that is ok.  Old ones leak, so we tweak the dutycycle (one more calibration)
The 89/90 is the odd duck here.  The below is 1991 and newer.
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Dashpot test. 8V TBI only.  Aka: cold start, temporary fast idle servo. (this device  causes, that 10-30 second fast idle time, each time you start car, shorter when hot
Key off, it holds idle open, with its own internal spring , if not?, the spring inside is rusted to nothing, or throttle butterfly valve is jammed.
(if it moves that diaphragm rod (it must), and don't leak air(it must not), and the spring retracts under it's own power. It's a winner.
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Fuel Pump regulator ( this is only 1 of 4 checks; see my pump page. (the end is missing, " a ruptured diaphragm"... sorry! for ham  hands)
This below checks only the diaphragm.   ( doing a classic diaphram leak test) the other tests are on car and measuring fuel pressure and if the pressure, drops with vacuum applied.
Last word cut off was Ruptured.  This is only 1 test of many on the FPR,  I check fuel pressure as 3 vacuum levels.  0 , 20 and 25 inches. (per my fuel pressure page)
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The MAF or VAF AIR METER, tested under load, see 20 Grams/second flow using the 4speed tranny, doing a TC stall test. (limit it to 10seconds max, rest for 2 minutes and repeat )
A VAF is used outside USA, its an air vane, volume of air measuring device, that the ECU later (software magic) to mass.  Van Air Flow = VAF.   MAF is mass air flow (hot wire) 
This is really, the FSM text book A/T stall test (note 2000 RPM limit G16)  {2300 to 2600 RPM on my V6}
This uses the A/T tranny as  poor man's Dynometer (loaded).  Can be done, in 1 second with M/T and full MAF datalogging, and in 1st gear. Fast loading the engine with the manual clutch. (tricky , yes)
The ECU is totally different for MAF and VAF , it has unique tables, but the the tests are the same.  Suzuki sells the MAF here for $1000  (rip) and many  clones are junk. (buy a used MAF)
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This 8V device is a CMP sender in the bottom  of the  Distributor, that sends Cam  positions, to the ECU, if it dies, spark end (and injection dies, as a result)
Aka: Cam Angle sensor. or CAS. It is a hall sensor, with very powerful signals, any meter can see. (unlike the crank sensor, CKP)
I am spinning the dizzy, by hand  with a 12vdc power pack attached to the dizzy 12v pin and my LED to the output pin.
The same thing can be done with a Voltmeter , on car, cranking, see the needle wag?  If this sensor fails, the ECU reports it fast, with a DTC. even 1 in 10 drop outs.
This test can be done on the 16v Distributor too, with different wiring , see my dizzy pages.  same white wire and blue-black for 12v. same results.   Below is a bench test to show it work clearly.
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The very  tricky, EGR modulator  test.  In hand, you can blow through P or Q pipe (P is plenum side) if not the valve is plugged up. In this test I block the Q port
and apply the vacuum tool to the P port and then block the Q port , I can hand pump now but no vacuum happens because the vent is open, when I very gently blow my lips
to the PUTT tube (this is exhaust clear tube in this vid) the diaphragm inside move up closes the internal valve and I get a hard vacuum. If I stop blowing it releases.
In most case the P and Q are identical in function, but some have an orifice on the Q side. To help vacuum suck better from the filtered vent. 
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Off car tests or just unplugged:  ( there are 3 tests:  the Idle switch, end to end POT resistance tests. and throttle angle, called the TP pin by Suzuki)
The TPS has 2 parts, the Idle switch and the Throttle Position (angle) sections. 
First, is the idle switch side. 16v bottom pin is 1, this test is pins 1 and 2
The idle switch is not a real gold contact switch, it's just carbon.
Common fail mode here, is reads infinity all the time.
This Video is the TPS carbon IDLE Switch,  closed must be below 500 ohms and open is infinity. (I'm moving  the wiper its called, only about 1/4" and it goes to infinity.
It is carbon , and never reaches 0  Ω  ohms   I see usually  50.1 Ω   (open switch, will show  O. L  M Ω {infinity}(overload, meg ohms,or O.R over range , read your meter guide book.)
 It only needs to be consistent.  that is all.  For  your PIN# ID , see here.
The meter here is a   junker ,  Below example   (TBI 8v is pin C to D) G16A engine.  On the G16B only the pins change not the ACTION.
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The TPS end to end POT test pins 1 to 4 this is just a fixed resistor. about 3000 to 5000 ohms, it must just read  in this range to be ok.  (  I like doing this test first)
If you see infinity here, it's Bad TPS.
The resistor value is crude by design (cheaper),    The TBI 8v is pin A to D:   My auto ranging meter shows 5.250 K Ω 
Five thousand two hundred and fifty ohms.  (or we say 5K)
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The TPS TP Throttle (angle) Position:  Pins 1 to 3. This test, must read linear actions and smooth  as you turn it, and no glitches through out its range, or it is bad.
Finding a bad TPS (common) here takes careful watching, of the meter. The TPS love to wear out he carbon section at your favorite cruise speed.
The ECU will almost never tell you this pin is bad. ( because it thinks the driver of car is nuts, see? as in crazy right foot actions...)
Reads Near zero at idle (not exactly) and up to 3000 to 5000 ohms at W.O.T  The TBI 8v is pin B to D.   My auto ranging meter shows  near zero, up to  near 5.00 K Ω
If this test fails and or in car driving, the ECU will not see you accelerate fast, and you get bogs. (a hesitation, in speedup of car)
The ECU watches how fast you move this sensor , only.
It does not set fueling on the static voltage there, it only measures the rate of change, the more fast the change, the more ENRICH mode.
Like the old CARB. engine, this pin minics the high speed accelerator pump.  (fast enrich)
I'm just moving the slider (wiper) from min to max. turning it.  We are looking for drop outs and glitches..  If the carbon wears out, and it drops out as you hit dead spots.
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TBI G16A 8 valve only (89/90 are different !) 91-95 only
The 4 wire colors are harness colors, as each maker of TPS, uses their own colors.




See here too                  and here.



Odds and Ends the 1.8L Clutch slave stroking 19mm   This is just a CLUTCH SLAVE STROKE test.  (make sure the fluid is full, with DOT3/4 never 5)

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Spark test:    Connect a good spark plug using any spark wire, directly to the HV Ignition coil big terminal , and crank the engine over.  just for noobs, who never saw spark before. here it is.
Do this at all 5 locations, all 4 cylinders, and at the COIL direct. if 1996+ an  adpater to the coil must be constucted (coil in dizzy) ( I use an aligator clip) BLUE-WHITE spark and battery fully charged.

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I used a very junky Harbor Fright(pun) $3 DMM meter above, not because a like it or because it's a good meter to own and trust, I use this to show that IT can be done for $3.
This can also be done with the Walfart (pun) $10 dirt cheap analog meter (good to have) or any $20 DMM made by anyone.
It's always good to have 2 meters, so when you don't trust one, you have a 2nd opinion. 
See more meters here.


v5  12-16-2013    Using JW_Player.




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