This is a LOW idle causation page, or
engine Stalls
A good HOT 800 RPM, regulated , does not happen, if you have other more
causative failures,
Idle is the last thing to
function correctly, or to fix/fiddle or worry !
Rule 1: The ECU does all it can do, to prevent stalls. (it opens the
ISC and advances timing to prevent stalls)
Rule 2: The ECU sets hot (controls) Idle speed, 800 ± 50 at all ,
times, the idle screw only sets the idle duty cycle , not idle speed.
(with A/C on or P/S overload, the RPM is 200 RPM more) {89/90 add
defrost and heat blower}
If the engine runs bad, it is quite normal for the ISC to lose control.
(it's a servo and is not all powerful; it has limits)
If the engine misfires, bogs, floods, runs rough, smokes black, or
shacks this is a bad running engine, and you should not try to correct
low idle, or set duty cycle.
Common failures and tests: (a scan tool sees all this, use one?
and see closed loop (O2) failing at hot idle (BINGO; fix that first)
- EGR stuck open all time ! or
sticking at each traffic stop. (very vary common failure and engine
shakes and 400 RPM idle , a
classic and common failure) Clean the main valve, and its fixed.
- Dead cylinders are gross MISFIRING. Weak Combustion?
- Forgot to change
out the cam timing belt at 60k miles (oops)
- Weak
fueling , lean, bogging, low
fuel pressure
- Clogged up injector. (or
leaking) Injector has many
failure modes
- ISC
stuck closed (clean it)
- The 16 valve MPI engine, any un-metered air leaks , can
cause a lean fuel mix and bog and run slow.
- Bad spark, or retarded
timing due to cam belt slip above. (cam drives spark so if
cam timed wrong makes spark the same) Ever heard of the 60,000 mile
interval tuneup?
- ECU stuck in Failsafe mode (no idle
controls)
and is so rich , it's doing #2 above , misfiring
badly, or is actually
in BACKUP mode (way worse than
Failsafe mode).
- The
scan tool or the dash cluster CEL lamp glowing, running?, means the ECU is warning
of
catastrophic errors. Get the Flash
codes or
SCAN it.
- The
TPS
idle switch bad
or calibrated wrong, will
only cause out of control idle regulation speeds.
- Worse a bad engine, compression low on 1 or more cylinders, if all are low, then the cam belt slipped, per step 3 above.
- Bad
fuel? (drain a bit and check it for contamination signs, of
water, rust, bad smell, bad colors, milky, let it set for 1hr in
a plastic jar and see if water settles out)
- Other
than bad fuel , it's the old classice bad engine, bad spark, bad fuel,
in that order, can burn good fuel with low compression, or bad
spark, so they are first.
- Found water and green? antifreeze on the tip end of spark a plug?
- Engine flooding, will run slow.
Spark plugs look
like this? (I can see they were new, not long ago (sharp
edges) but are carbon fouled , from weak spark or overfueling,
(Fails safe mode active) (EGR stuck open, fuel pressure way too
high)
They are fuel soaked too. (not oil) oil soaking is way more serious.
rev 4 , 4-1-2014
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